“Do you have a lock?” I asked about the electric bike I was about to rent for the next 4 days.
“No need. Tranquílo”
and that set the tone for my trip.
Lampedusa is a ludicrously laid back, mostly seasonal, summer holiday destination. The Sicilian island is a contrast of a desolate rocky landscape fringed with sparkling coves and fine sand beaches dipping into every shade of blue you can imagine. It’s an island made for slow mornings with ricotta-filled pastries, afternoons under colourful beach umbrellas, boat trips to hidden coves and caves and seafood platters next to the ocean. The island entertains summer visitors with boat trips and even some nightlife but it’s also home to a rich fishing culture and year round community. The fact that Lampedusa is frequented by mostly Italians, means that the language you hear spoken is…Italian. The way it should be of course, but lets be honest it’s getting increasingly common to hear English floating through the streets of many destinations in Europe. While that certainly makes my life easier, language is a huge part of culture and without it the experience is not as rich.
Planning a trip to Italy? You’re in the right place! Welcome to Travel Planning and Itinerary design by Candy. Ciao! I’m an independent travel advisor living in Portugal (since 2016). I help people plan their dream trip to Portugal, Spain and Italy. You’re currently reading a post from my collection of travel guides. I also offer personal travel consultation and a bespoke itinerary service.
Islands of Sicily
If you’re new to this website, take a look around and you’ll soon realise Sicily is a hot topic around here. As a place I visit several times a year, my love affair with Sicily deepens with every trip as does my knowledge of the region. This guide is written from personal experience after a trip to the most southern part of the region and country – Lampedusa.
BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN SICILY
The region of Sicily includes the largest island in the Med and my favourite travel destination of all time. When you think of Sicily you may think of tempestuous Etna, stories of the Mafia, or golden arancini balls, but the true character of Sicily is not found in the big and famous, it’s found in the backstreets of small towns, the outsider neighbourhoods, the vast rural interior and it’s far flung outer islands.
Above: Favignana, Isole Egadi
Though parts of Sicily are firmly on the tourist trail; Palermo, Catania, Stromboli and Taormina for example, much of the region is chronically forgotten. Many of the outer islands are a hot summer spot for Italians but little-known by the rest of the world. You may have heard of the Aeolian islands or if not, surely Stromboli, but have you heard of the Isolie Egadi, Isola di Ustica or Isole Pelagie? Without a doubt, Sicily is home to Italy’s best islands. Lampedusa is one of them.
More about Lampedusa
Lampedusa has an interesting history including pirate attacks and being used as an exile ground for a yellow fever outbreak. The island was in possession of the Tomasi family for 160 years until they eventually sold it to the state of Naples in 1940’s before coming part of the kingdom of Italy in 1861.
Lampedusa’s economy has historically relied on fishing and agriculture until the development of the airport in the 1970s when it opened the island to visitors, boosting its economy with tourism.
Lampedusa is a popular summer holiday spot for Italians but even today, the remote island, which is much closer to Tunisia than Sicily, is almost untouched by international tourism. The island is reminiscent in some ways of Favignana in the Egadis which also attracts Italian tourists and not much else.
The Pelagie Islands of Italy
Isole Pelagie consists of two inhabited islands Lampedusa & Linosa and 3 other islands/islets.
Why Visit Lampedusa?
Lampedusa is a slow travel spot, a summer-holiday destination and a ‘the simpler the better’ kind of trip. It’s about reconnecting with family (or yourself), switching off the phone and diving in what is probably the bluest ocean you’ve ever seen. In an increasingly connected world, technology-laden, high activity travel has become the norm. This ever increasing trend of needing to do and see everything has driven me to seek out these quieter, less demanding travel destinations to remind myself what its all about. Lampedusa is one of those destinations. I believe the true beauty of Lampedusa (and the Egadi islands too) is that they refuse to be changed by modern tourism. Sometimes less is more and if it ‘aint broke, don’t fix it.
Where is Lampedusa?
Lampedusa and sister island Linosa are the inhabited islands of the Pelagie archipelago, considered part of the Agrigento province in the region of Sicily. Lampedusa is the most southerly point of Italy and Europe, situated between Tunisia (113 km), Malta (176 km) and Sicily’s main landmass (205 km).
When to Visit Lampedusa?
The shoulder season in late May/June and late September/October will give you steady pleasant weather without the full crowds but the bustle of summer isn’t all bad if you want to make the most of the heat of summer or bring the whole family. If you visit in the winter expect reduced services and some closed restaurants, but since there is a year round working community here you won’t be alone.
For summer trips book accommodation plenty of time in advance. In shoulder season and winter you can book things more last minute but remember there may not be as many options to choose from.
How Long to Spend in Lampedusa?
Most come and spend a week or maybe two for their sole summer holiday of the year. It’s not a big island so you can come and spend 4-5 days and see the whole island but spending a week or 10 days allows you to really kick back and feel a part of what’s going on, by the end of it you’ll probably be on first name terms with your favourite restaurants. With this time you can also include a trip to Linosa island.
How to get to Lampedusa
The best and easiest way to reach Lampedusa is by plane.
How to reach Lampedusa by Plane
Lampedusa is connected to Palermo and Catania in Sicily year round ( 1-1h30) and has seasonal summer flights to Rome and Milan (1h30-2h).
How to reach Lampedusa by Ferry
There are fast boast and ferries available from Porto Empedocle in Sicily. The fast boasts take 4.5 hours so – not that fast. Ferries can take 10 hours. Visit Sirenmar for schedules.
How to Get Around Lampedusa & the Pelagie Islands
Lampedusa is small so wherever you stay it won’t take you long to get anywhere but the beaches are well spread out and the not walking distance from most areas of the island unless you’re here for a hiking holiday.
To make the most of the island I recommend hiring some type of transport but at only 20.2 km² big, you don’t really need a car in Lampedusa unless you are travelling with kids. For those of you wanting a slower experience an electric bike is a great option. Some of the tracks are dirt so I don’t recommend using a typical road bike. If you want to be able to circumnavigate the island quicker, then a scooter will do the trick. You can also rent moke style open-top cars which are definitely not necessary but would make a fun experience especially if you are visiting with family or friends.
Renting a Bicycle/ Electric bike or scooter in Lampedusa
There are plenty of locations to pick up a bike or scooter (or car) in Lampedusa and you’ll find most accommodation, shops and even restaurants have a rental side-hustle. Prices can vary so it is worth a look around.
I rented my electric bike from Arcobaleno for €10 a day, bearing in mind this was the off-season. You can expect to pay a little more during peak season but the price can be negotiated if you’re staying a while.
Renting a car in Sicily
Although there are car ferries that arrive in Lampedusa it is forbidden for non-residents to bring cars to most outer islands in Sicily either during peak season or year round. If you’re looking to rent a car in Sicily for travel off the islands (recommended) then I can personally recommend Zest.
Where to stay in Lampedusa
As mentioned, the island is only small and it’s easy to visit all corners regardless of where you stay (if you have transport) but depending on your needs and the atmosphere you are looking for there are a few choices to pick from. I usually use BookingCom for accommodation search as it has the most options, there are also plaes to be found on Airbnb but the majority are also on Bookingcom and at a cheaper rate due to Airbnbs higher comission rates.
Town centre
The bustly town centre is the best choice to feel a part of local life and give you quick access to shops, supermarkets and restaurants. The town centre is located on the top of a hill and a 25 minute walk from the closest beach so keep that in mind.
Port/ Cala Guitgia
The port is at the bottom of the town centre, just a 5-10 minute walk. Cala Guitgia is one of the best serviced beaches on the island with a beach club, restaurant, and shop. It’s also the most sheltered beach on the island.
I stayed at Mamalù, a 1 minute walk from Cala Guitgia and I loved the location for exploring the south coast while having this beach right on my doorstep. The holiday apartment is one of the nicest I found during my research, very spacious and equipped with everything you need.
The best option in this area is Kartika Charming House (much more expensive but. higher quality house) but Residence Il Melgrono is also in a great location.
South Coast
As you head out east from the port the scenery starts to change and the island becomes less developed but here you can find many holiday homes and villas blending into the dusty landscape. Cala Croce and Portu ‘Ntoni are two of the island’s most picturesque small beaches. Staying in this location gives you the best of both worlds, close to the beaches and only a short drive from town.
Try Borgo Marino Beach Residence or this holiday home close to Cala Madonna
At Cala Creta in the west of the island check out I Dammusi di Borgo Cala Creta.
Luxury Holiday apartments at Mareluna
Best beaches in Lampedusa & the Pelagie Islands
I’m guessing you’re here for the crystal clear water? Lampedusa is your oyster!
Lampedusa is a remote island in the middle of the med so it can be victim to windy conditions but even in strong winds there are usually one or two sheltered beaches. I recommend downloading the free app Wind Finder which shows you wind direction and strength using an easy to understand map.
- Cala Guitgia – Next to the port. The most sheltered on the island. Serviced with restaurant and shop.
- Cala Croce and Portu ‘Ntoni Two small picturesque beaches with restaurants and a sunset bar. Great swimming.
- Spiaggia dei Conigli*(Rabbit beach) The most famous beach of Lampedusa. Named 2013 beach of the year and with good reason. A swathe of fine white sand with a shallow swimming area, and the most gorgeous shades of blue you’ve ever seen.
- Cala Madonna Very small beach but with long cliffs to perch on and swim along
- Mare Morto – If you want to escape the crowds and have a different type of ocean experience, trek down to Mare Morto and perch up on the rocks. Swim out to the Arco naturale for a unique perspective.
- Cala Creta – A rocky and beautiful bathing spot that is harder to access than other parts of the island making it quieter. There is no beach here so you need to get in and out over rocks. Don’t attempt when there is swell. Not really suitable for young kids.
- Cala Pisana – Another sheltered swimming spot. The small beach is nothing special but the shape of the bay makes it a great swimming area and boats often anchor here for lunch. There is a large stone area where you can set up a towel and jump straight into the azure.
*A note on Conigli: The beach is also the chosen hatching ground of the Caretta Caretta turtle (loggerhead) making it a protected natural reserve area. The island has thankfully put in place restrictions to eliminate disturbance. Access to the beach is only permitted at certain times of day and there is limited number of people allowed on the beach during summer. You should book a slot in advance here. There are no services on Conigli so you need to bring your own food, drinks and umbrellas.
Once on the beach, obey the area restrictions. Sadly, during my visit people had set up their towels in the clearly signposted protected area despite there being plenty of room outside of this. Don’t be those people. I think people forget what a privilege it is to have access to areas of natural beauty like this, when we’ve lost so much around the world because restrictions like these weren’t put in place in the first place. Respect them.
Boat Tour in Lampedusa
For islands like Lampedusa, there really is only one way to experience them best and that’s on or in the water. Book a boat trip for at least one of the days of your trip. This one is really well rated : Yacht excursion, swimming stops and typical lunch
Best Experiences and Activities in Lampedusa
Lampedusa is more about ‘being’ than ‘doing’ and I definitely recommend you take advantage of the chance to slow down and enjoy the view. Of course there are still lots of ways to experience the island and leave with meaningful memories.
- Shopping for the freshest fruit and vegetables from the local market stalls. One thing I loved about Lampedusa is the prevalence of fresh produce stores. In fact, although chain supermarkets like Conad exist they do not sell fruit and vegetables, these can only be bought from specific market stores.
- Enjoy a traditional Sicilian breakfast of Granita at Paradise pasticceria or bar dell’Amicizia. The most traditional flavours are almond, pistachio mulberry, lemon and coffee.
- Cycle to Spiaggia dei Conigli view point for sunrise/sunset. The light at dusk and dawn is extra special.
- Sunset and aperitivo at Bar H. This truck turned bar is perched at the end of the world and offers a stripped back sunset experience. Go at least once while you’re in Lampedusa.
- Boat trip with local lunch. Lampedusa should be experienced in or on the water. Need ideas? This is a good option: Yacht excursion, swimming stops and typical lunch
Day trip or overnight to Linosa
Linosa island is Lampedusa’s sister island, smaller, more wild and even quieter. If you have the time, it is worth staying a night in Linosa for a different experience. There are daily ferries from Lampedusa. Book ahead with Liberty Lines.
Best Restaurants and Bars in Lampedusa
The main concentration of restaurants is found in the town centre and next to the port. Beachside bars and restaurants are best for aperitivo and sunset but not the place you would choose for dinner.
Best Restaurants Lampedusa
- Bar dell’Amicizia for breakfast, pastries and Sicilian favourites like Arancini
- Paradise Pasticceria, my favourite granita on the island and a local hangout for coffee
- Panificio Luca Freshly baked Sfincione, panelle, arancini
- La Terrazza di Giò Laid back restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the port. Small but delicious menu with a focus on traditional dishes.
- Il Mercatino del Pesce Fish market turned restaurant. Pick your fish from the market and the restaurant will cook for you.
- Lampedusa Food Truck Artisan burgers, mostly fish
Best bars in Lampedusa
Remote Sicilian islands to me are all about swimming in gin-clear water, cycling on rusty bikes around dusty paths and ending the day with a neon orange aperitif. I am a sucker for a wooden shack serving ice cold aperol and a sunset view. Here’s what I found. Worth noting that during the off-season some of these are closed or with open with limited hours.
Best “Hidden” Gems in Lampedusa
The island very much feels like a hidden gem in itself, at least for the non-Italian of us, but once you are on the island there is nothing undiscovered. Although the coves and crevices are known, some of them are not so easy to reach. To make the most of them, book a boat trip to explore the island fully. I didn’t do this while on the island so can’t recommend a specific one but GetYourGuide has plenty of options
So there you have it, a quick and hopefully useful guide to the island of Lampedusa in Sicily. This won’t be my only time to the island so as always, I’ll continue to update with every visit. Happy Planning!
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