I visited Formentera at the tail end of a trip to Mallorca and instantly fell in love with the laid back vibes, electric blue and turquoise ocean, white-sand beaches, and gravel tracks that make you feel like you’ve discovered the island before anyone else. Formentera is well known, but much, much less developed than the other Balearic islands. It is the perfect island to switch off and appreciate the natural beauty of the Balearics without the fuss.
Planning a trip to Spain? You’re in the right place! Welcome to Travel Planning and Itinerary design by Candy. Hola! I’m an independent travel advisor living in Portugal (since 2016). I help people plan their dream trip to Portugal, Spain and Italy. You’re currently reading a post from my collection of travel guides. I also offer personal travel consultation and a bespoke itinerary service.
Travel in The Balearics – 4 islands, 4 very different worlds
What I do know to be true, is that all 4 islands are very different from each other. Choosing an island to visit will depend on your travel style and holiday plans. If you’re looking for a more relaxed pace of trip with plenty of beach time and nature, Formentera is for you.
My Formentera Trip – Who should use this travel guide?
If this is your first time visiting Formentera this guide will help you plan your trip. This mini travel guide will help you with the basics and give you a brief insight into what to expect and what you can enjoy on the island. As I only spent a very short time in Formentera, I obviously don’t claim to be an expert, but hopefully this guide will be a good starting point for anyone traveling to Formentera.
My travel style is laid back, beaches, natural beauty and, ‘off the beaten path’ adventures. So if one of these ticks your boxes, you should find this guide useful.
I’m not one for partying and nightlife (although I do love a good sunset bar) so it might not be that useful if that’s what you are looking to get out of your trip. I am a travel planner for work so I always spend time going into great detail when researching and my trip Formentera was no different.
Why Visit Formentera?
Formentera is the smallest, quietest, and most undeveloped of the Balearics and thanks to this it is overrun with natural beauty and holds onto a slower-paced life. Ideal if you’re in need of a switch off from the frantic, uber-connected everyday life we have all come accustomed to. The island is also the place to visit if you’re a beach fanatic. The coastline here is stunning and very accessible.
Where is Formentera?
Formentera is the smallest inhabited Balearic island, located 100km off the east coast of Spain, almost in line with Alicante.
When to Visit Formentera?
The shoulder season in late May/June and late September/October is the best time to visit Formentera because you have a good chance of warm, sunny weather but without the crowds and nightlife that the summer season attracts. However, since the island isn’t as developed as Ibiza or Mallorca there are still quiet places in nature to be found, even in mid-summer. Do expect prices to soar in July and August. The winter season brings unpredictable and cooler weather meaning some of the beaches won’t be as enjoyable (and swimming may not be safe), but being the Med, you can still expect an abundance of blue sky days throughout the winter. In winter the majority of the beach bars and restaurants close down or have limited hours.
How Long to Spend in Formentera?
It’s possible to visit Formentera as a day trip from Ibiza but I recommend staying a while. You can see the island in a few days but a week would allow for an even more relaxed experience. With two weeks to play with you’ll know the island like the back of your hand. Since it is well connected with the other islands, you could also mix it with a trip to Ibiza and/or Malliorca.
Slow Travel in Formentera
This island is made for slow travel. What do I mean by that? Take your time to get around, use a bicycle or your own two feet rather than a car, savour the flavours and moments, stop rushing from one place to the other, switch the phone off, sit on the sand, cycle to get bread, chat with the locals in the cafe; Formentera makes it very easy to do all of the above.
How to get to Formentera
Formentera does not have an airport so it’s only reachable by boat. Ferries are available from Ibiza, Mallorca or mainland Spain. Ibiza is the best and quickest option.
Booking a Ferry to Formentera from Ibiza
Book ferries in advance online on the Trasmapi website or in the port.
The ferry service between Ibiza and Formentera is frequent and reliable, costing around €20-€25 each way. They run approximately every 45mins from morning until evening and take around 30 minutes. Ibiza port is reachable by public bus (40 mins) from the airport. If you are pressed for time. Taxis from Ibiza airport to the port are metered by time and distance and usually cost between €15-€18.
Note: Some accommodation providers on the Formentera provide the option to add on flexible ferry tickets at a slightly cheaper rate than online which also includes tickets for the public bus between Ibiza airport and the port.
How to Get Around Formentera
Renting a Bicycle/ Electric bike or scooter in Formentera
A very popular, and in my opinion the best way to get around Formentera is on two wheels. Formentera lends itself to slow travel. The island is very small, about 19km tip to tip, and is bike friendly, the majority of roads having a cycle lane. .
Choose a mountain bike over a city bike so that you can be more comfortable on the gravel tracks that lead you to some of Formentera’s best coves and beaches.
I rented my ladies MTB from Pujols Rentals and it included a lock and helmet (ask for lights if you want to cycle at night). I booked in advance online (20% off) and picked up from the ferry port in Savina. They have several outlets all over the island which would have been useful if there was a problem with the bike (there wasn’t). My bike was a bit old but worked perfectly well for my time and I will use the company again when I return.
If you’re looking for an electric bike, shop around as there are varying quality and prices to be found.
A note on helmets: A lot of people choose not to wear a helmet, and I struggle to understand why. If you are cycling on roads with moving traffic then you should be wearing a helmet. Even if you’re just on the gravel tracks it only takes one fall to hit your head. Just wear a helmet. It could save your life.
Renting a car in the Balearics
If you’re coming to Formentera as part of a longer/multi-island trip you may have a rental car. You can take a car ferry from Ibiza to Formentera but double check with your rental company that you are covered to take the car off the island you rented from. I recommend the broker Zest for car hire in the Balearics. I’ve been using them since 2019 all over Portugal, Spain and Italy because they have fantastic insurance and customer service. When selecting a car rental company. Avoid Centauro at all costs. I had an extremely negative experience with them in Palma.
Where to stay in Formentera
There are only 6 towns in Formentera, each with varying levels of services/ facilities. There is also the option to rent a house/villa in a rural or coastal area, away from the towns. Here are some options to consider:
Es Pujols / Salines
If you want to be close to both beaches and restaurants/shops Es Pujols is the place to be. It has a nice mix of beach restaurants, cafes and shops. Plus it’s closest to Ses Illets. This place does have nightlife so bare that in mind during the on season. I stayed at Emar Hotels Apartments and it was perfect. spacious apartments, well-furnished. A 5 min walk from the beach and with a big swimming pool to laze around if thats more your vibe.
Es Calò
Built for holiday makers, expect lots of holiday rentals and few shops. The bonus is that you have access to the quieter coves and beaches this area boasts.
Sant Francesc Xavier
This is Formentera’s main town and houses 3000 residents. It also has the biggest concentration of facilities. It’s a 10 minute drive from the beaches of Es Pujols.
El Pilar de la Mola
La Mola is Formentera’s highest point but for this rather flat island this translates to only 193m. If you want to stay here and your mode of transport choice is a non-electric bike, consider if cycling up and down to go anywhere is the right decision for you.
Best beaches in Formentera
For me, like many, Formenteras biggest asset are its beaches. Considering it is a small island it has plenty of coastline to explore (69km to be exact) and an array of coves and beaches to get your feet wet. The majority of beaches are easy to access by foot or car/scooter with parking close by and no rock scrambling.
Arguably the best thing about Formentera being a small island is that whatever the conditions are, you can almost always find a sheltered spot. It is important to remember that the island is sometimes subjected to swell (waves). The south coast is more popular for surfing and wind surfing and the north coast is more likely to be sheltered and better for swimming, but this can change depending on the weather systems. Wherever you are you can guarantee a clear ocean.
Why is the water so clear in Formentera?
The sea water in Formentera is crystal clear thanks to a type of native Mediterranean seagrass called Posidonia oceanica. Not only does this wonder-grass filter sediment and particles leaving the water gin-like, but it also gives Formentera UNESCO world heritage status.
How to choose a beach in Formentera
A really useful app is Wind Finder which shows you wind direction and strength using an easy to understand map. Available on desktop and as a mobile app. I use this frequently to find sheltered beaches.
The best thing you can do is spend a few days cycling around the coast to find your favourite beaches. These are the ones I enjoyed the most.
- Ses Illets A string of crescent bays that are part of a natural park, reaching almost as far as Ibiza. Out of this world beauty. It can be more exposed to wind.
- Es Pujols Such a chilled area to relax (although definitely one of the more busy beaches in season) with access to some laid back beach bars and restaurants
- És Calo (west) Quaint fisherman inlet with picturesque white and blue buildings. Just north you’ll find a nudist friendly beach with a few rock pools.
- Platja de Migjorn South coast swathe of sand, can be more sheltered from northerly winds. The further north the more relaxed it is. Head to Pelayo Chiringuito for a laid-back beach shack vibe.
- Cala Saona Your best sunset spot
Accessible / wheelchair-friendly beaches in Formentera
Many of the beaches have car parks and are accessible by boardwalk but most boardwalks have steps. An exception to this is Es Pujols beach (10mins drive from Savina port) which has a ramp all the way to the sand. Es Arnals (15mins drive from Savina port) has a wooden ramp, disabled parking, disabled toilets and amphibious chairs available.
Best Experiences and Activities in Formentera
- Beach hopping (obviously) – rent a bike and cycle your way round the island. It’s the best way to discover all the little coves.
- Ses Salines Natural Park
- Cycle the dirt track along the pink-tinged salt flats to Ses Illets
- Watch Sunset from Cala Saona/ Blue Bar
- Boutique shopping in Es Pujols – This place to kit out your summer/beach wardrobe.
What To Eat & Drink in Formentera
Best Restaurants and Bars in Formentera
Bearing in mind that during this first trip I didn’t have a lot of time to try all the restaurants and bars but I’ve included the ones that I did visit and also the options I have on my research list.
Best Restaurants Formentera
- La Kasa dei Kolori (Es Pujols) Italian breakfast and lunch with good coffee. I can recommend the ricotta, honey and fig croissant but they have more substantial options too.
- La Cava Formentera Right on the beach at Es Pujols is this laid back beach restaurant. It’s not easy to find decent beachview restaurants, too often they get away with average food and high prices but every now and again you find a good one
- El Gioviale A pretty Italian restaurant in Sant Francesc. Lots of people are raving about the carbonara.
Best Bars in Formentera
- Chiringuito Briss (Es Pujols). Tiny beach shack bar at the far end of Es Pujols. Laid back bar with music at sunset. Don’t miss it.
- Blue Bar An (wait for it…) ALIEN-themed restaurant right on the sand. I’m not sure why it’s alien themed but whether you come for the aliens or the sunset drinks or the dj it’s a fun addition to your Formentera itinerary. Located at the end of a dirt path.
Best “Hidden” Gems in Formentera
I’m not sure I can really claim there are many hidden gems in Formentera. It’s a small island and people have been traveling here for decades. But there are some areas which are quieter than others.
- Guingueta Pelayo, north end of Platja de Migjorn This beach shack bar is reminiscent of my days in Indonesia and Thailand. Rustic and laid back and the entry point to a swathe of white sand and nudist beach. This is a place to truly switch off. No phones. Respect peace and nature and let’s keep this off instagram please.
- Calo des Mort “Heat of death?” erm, looks lovely though! Small, cute swimming cove, perfectly hidden. It is located in an area that can be subjected to swell. Only swim when safe.
On my list for next time…
I only scratched the surface of this mini paradise and I’m already putting plans to come back here before the end of the year. Here’s what I’m adding to my itinerary next time:
- Walk the Island – Formentera is the perfect size for a hiking holiday. There is very little elevation (except La Mola) making it not too strenuous. It would be really cool to set off with a backpack and hike a loop of the island. It’s estimated to take 4 days.
- Boat trip around the island for snorkeling
- Sunset from Ses Illets
Other adventures to plan?
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