TRAVEL PORTUGAL Archives

Most Memorable Road Trips to Take in Portugal

July 25, 2022

Since moving here in 2016 I have had many opportunities to travel around Portugal. Plane, train, bus, boat, bicycle. I’ve tried most transport options but my favourite way to experience this wonderful country I choose to call home is by car. I’ve taken many road trips around Portugal and they account for some of my best memories of the past 6 years. There’s nothing quite like exploring with your own four wheels. It’s about time I shared my most memorable road trips around Portugal.

Why road trip in Portugal?

My answer is why not? Portugal is blessed with a diverse range of scenery that changes every few hours on the road. From remote golden beaches to undiscovered pottery villages there is SO MUCH TO SEE and the majority can only be seen with a car.

With exception to the biggest cities driving is the best way to travel around Portugal. The biggest benefit to driving around Portugal is the freedom it gives you to move at your own pace. Not having to deal with set transport times or visiting at the same time of day as everyone else. You can literally move how and when you wish.

If you rely solely on public transport in Portugal I promise you will miss out on almost all of the best bits of the country. The trip that made me realise this more than any other was my 10-day road trip around Alentejo. Alentejo is a perfect example of a region best visited by car.

Where do you need a car in Portugal?

Let’s start with where you DON’T need a car in Portugal which is both Lisbon and Porto. Both cities have a good transport system and hiring, driving and parking can be a real pain and unnecessary.

You also don’t need a car in Algarve but ONLY if you are staying in one town such as Lagos or Tavira for the entire trip.

Public transport isn’t great in Portugal. The train connecting Faro/ Lagos/ Lisbon/ Coimbra/ Porto is good so if you are dead set on a city break then you don’t need a car but otherwise getting a hire car is the way forward.

How to travel between Lagos and Lisbon

If you want to explore Algarve deeply, visit iconic towns like Nazaré, discover the real Portugal in Alentejo, see the vines and views in Douro Valley or scale Serra Estrella, then I strongly recommend hiring a car.

Best Car Hire in Portugal

I’ve been living in Portugal since 2016 and I have had many terrible car rental stories. However a few years ago I reluctantly tried a broker service and I’ve never looked back since. When I found Zest the first thing that struck me was how user friendly the website is. It is easy to use and information is presented in a way you can actually read and understand. Next good thing is the fact that prices are shown upfront, there is no hidden surprised when you get to checkout. Not forgetting their amazing insurance policy. I’ve used them 6 or 7 or probably more times now (I’ve lost count) and had an excellent experience every time. I’ve used Zest to travel all over Portugal and will continue to use them for both short and long trips. Zest have been with me on most of my memorable road trips in Portugal. I highly recommend.

If you want to know more about the ins and outs of hiring a car jump over to this post…

HOW TO HIRE A CAR IN PORTUGAL

Which roads to drive in Portugal

All of the best driving experiences I’ve had in Portugal have been when I switched off ‘motorways’ on GoogleMaps and took the road less traveled. I definitely suggest trying this for at least some of your trip. The backroads in Portugal are a delight (and some times a little bit bumpy). Take the small roads and you’ll find hidden coves, views and vineyards a plenty.

Toll roads in Portugal

Of course sometimes there will be times you can’t avoid the motorways but fear not. Apart from the outskirts of Lisbon or Porto motorway traffic is usually light and easy. Some occasions you may need to use one of Portugals toll roads especially if you are covering long distances. If this is the case I recommend adding the toll responder to your car hire agreement. It’s usually just a few euros a day and saves you having to work out how to pay it after. On the rare occasion you’re on a toll road that doesn’t fall under the transponder you can pay by card or cash. Unfortunately the toll booths are one of the only places that don’t accept travel cards such as Wise, Revolut etc. They will accept a credit card but expect a cheesy extra charge on top for exchange rate if your bank account is in another currency than Euros. I recommend always carrying some cash in the car to avoid this.

HIRE A CAR IN PORTUGAL

What are the most unforgettable road trips in Portugal?

Now to the good bit. I’ve been exploring Portugal deeply since 2016 and although I still have a lot to see I’ve been lucky enough to experience some truly amazing driving. Here are some of my most memorable drives in Portugal.

DOURO VALLEY ROAD TRIP

So many visitors choose train or boat to visit Douro Valley but to really witness the beauty of this wine region you need a car. Winding roads reveal breathtaking scenery at every corner. Drive slow and take it all in. If you’re here for multiple wine tastings (and I certainly hope you are) then leave your hire car at your hotel and grab a taxi. You’ll still get to experience those beautiful winding roads but safely! A few villages I absolutely recommend adding to your Douro road trip itinerary are Valença do Douro and Provesende.

Talking about wine…. BEST WINE EXPERIENCES IN DOURO VALLEY

WEST COAST ALGARVE ROADT TRIP

Yes, yes I know Algarve is no secret. A full blown holiday resort in some parts but I’ve said it more than once and I’ll continue to say it a thousand times; Algarve is home to some of the most authentic places in Portugal. And I would know because I lived there for 4 years. While it’s true that the south coast beaches can get pretty jammed in summer the west coast is a different ball game altogether. Head west and seek out the wild, windswept beaches of Cordoba and Bordeira or head off on your own discovery mission to find some hidden spots you won’t forget in a hurry. Pleas note…some of the more remote beaches in Algarve require a 4×4. You can choose this option when searching on Zest.

Lagos | A Complete Guide

Authentic Wine Tasting Algarve

ALENTEJO ROAD TRIPS

Ah, my beloved Alentejo. My favourite region in Portugal is also home to the very best driving. Alentejo is a huge region so I’ve split it into two. If you’re up for a mega road trip do both!

10 DAY ROAD TRIP ITINERARY

BAIXO ALENTEJO ROAD TRIP

The warmth of the Algarve and the authenticity of Portugal’s most undiscovered region this lower portion of Alentejo is home to agriculture, pottery and some unique wine tasting experiences. This is a place to take your time driving around. Try not to rush through this region because although there are many beautiful vistas to set eyes on this place is more about how it makes you feel. The only way to know is to go. Make sure you tick off the following… Mértola, Moura, Monsaraz and Vidigueira.

DISCOVER SLOW TOURISM IN BAIXO ALENTEJO

ALTO ALENTEJO ROAD TRIP

Still slow and warm but dramatic too. Expect towering medieval castles, vast vineyards and breathtaking scenery. My must-visits include Castelo de Vide, Marvão and Arraiolos. I particularly loves driving through Serra da Sao Mamede Natural Park.

SILVER COAST HIGHLIGHTS ROAD TRIP

I must admit I’m still relatively under-traveled when it comes to this section of Portugal but what I’ve seen so far continues to keep me coming back to discover more. The definition of which towns are included on the Silver Coast seem to vary depending on where you get your information but in my eyes it’s stretches from just below Peniche all the way up to Aveiro; if you want to be cheeky include Ericeira too. It doesn’t really matter, what matters is that if you’re driving between Lisbon and Porto you should spend at least some of the journey on the Silver Coast. Stop offs should include Nazaré and Baleal. Óbidos and Caldas da Rainha are both close by too.

More amazing road trips in Portugal…

As I mentioned earlier I still have much of Portugal to drive including north of Porto and east and North of Serra da Estrella so you can bet those areas are next on my list. I’ll be sure to share as I go.

I’m sure I’ve missed some so tell me, what are the most unforgettable road trips you’ve taken in Portugal?

Discover Slow Tourism in Baixo Alentejo with Burrico d’Orada

July 6, 2021

Alentejo and Slow Tourism : A Match made in Heaven

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again, Alentejo is my favourite region in Portugal. It possesses an untouched beauty I have yet to find in another part of the country. This (still mostly) undiscovered land is the ultimate place to experience slow tourism. The region’s unhurried pace encourages you to move slower and appreciate the simple things in life like warm sunshine on your skin, long lunches with friends, figs plucked straight from the tree and local wine poured by the jug. The people are the warmest I’ve met and I have never felt so welcome anywhere as I do in Alentejo.

Visit Alentejo and you’ll eat, breathe and live the good life.

10 DAY ALENTEJO ITINERARY

Despite an overall feeling of ‘tranquilidade’ in the Alentejo there are also pockets of promising innovation and exciting energy; inspiring people and unique experiences that offer a glimpse into the spirit of the Portuguese. I continue to be enchanted by the bond shared between the people who live here and the land that supports them. Every time I visit I want to chat with everyone I meet in the hope that some of that connectedness rubs off on me.

Alentejo is a large region, 27,272 square kilometres to be precise. The region can be split into 3 main areas : alto, centro and baixo. As you drive from top to bottom you’ll notice the scenery continuously changes; another reason to explore the region deeply.

HOW TO HIRE A CAR IN PORTUGAL

Baixo Alentejo : What to Expect

Baixo Alentejo is the lower part of the region and is bordered by Algarve to the south, Spain to the west and central Alentejo to the north . Here, colours are soft and hills are rolling. Captivating towns and villages give way to olive groves and vines. In summer sunflowers grow tall and the afternoon heat invites you to do nothing but rest until dinner with friends. It is impossible to describe the feeling that this region stirs up within, the only way to understand the magic of Baixo Alentejo is to visit yourself.

Burrico d’Orada

Burrico d’Orada is country lodging and an experience provider in Baixo Alentejo. The story behind this family-run business is one of love, respect and dedication. Rita grew up with a vision, a vision that included welcoming guests to her beloved grandparent’s home in the heart of Baixo Alentejo. In 2020 she managed to bring that childhood dream to life and in the process has created something truly special. There is only one person who can tell the story and that is Rita so hop over to Burrico d’Orada and read her words.

VISIT BURRICO D’ORADA

Where to Stay in Baixo Alentejo

Needless to say Burrico d’Orada would be my first choice when deciding where to stay. This country lodging is bang in the middle of Baixo Alentejo between Moura and Vidigueira (both worth of a visit) and is also just a short drive away from the new river beach – essential for cooling off in the summer. There are several lodging options at Burrico d’Orada which you can check out here.

I stayed in the gorgeous Casa das Oliveiras. This two bedroom , two bathroom country house is spacious and cool (even in the summer months). The house is decorated beautifully with furniture restored by Rita, paintings by Rita’s mother and cushions embroidered by Rita’s grandma. Every detail has been considered. The kitchen is fully equipped and the beds are comfy (and huge). My favourite spot is the small patio looking out over the garden – perfect for breakfast or a glass of vinho.

The breakfast it worth a special mention. Just look at that spread (swooooon). Rita freshly prepares the basket each morning and it is filled to the brim with local, organic goodies; all the produce is from Baixo Alentejo and many of the treats are from the Burrico d’Orada garden itself. These carefully considered details is one of the reasons I fell in love with this place.

Best Experiences in Baixo Alentejo

Something I am really keen to share is that Baixo Alentejo is not just about relaxing. It can be if you want it to be, it is very easy to sink into that dreamy holiday feeling here, but that isn’t *all* it’s about. If you’re anything like me there is only so much ‘chilling’ you can do before you get a bit bored. If this is the case you will be happy you chose Baixo Alentejo. There is enough to keep you entertained day in and out if that’s what your looking for. These experiences allow you to get up close and personal with the spirit and beauty of the Alentejo. Remember these experiences shouldn’t be rushed. Don’t try and do too much, take your time to dive deeply into everything Baixo Alentejo has to offer and you will be rewarded with memories to last a lifetime.

Alqueva Dam

This huge dam is the largest in Europe and a must-visit if you are in the area. Baixo Alentejo is extremely dry, especially in summer so it is natural to crave to be close to the water. Alqueva is your saviour!

If you really want to make the most of the Alqueva dam then book yourself in for an activity on the water.

A unique way to experience this watery paradise is by SUP (stand-up paddle board). Book a tour with Alentejo Break and you will be able to enjoy a different perspective of the landscape. The dam is the perfect place to learn paddle boarding thanks to the calm water and if it’s your first experience you’ll be up, standing and paddling in no time. Alentejo Break also run night canoeing tours with a picnic under the stars!

ALENTEJO BREAK

If you’re looking for a less active but equally ‘up close and personal’ experience you can explore the dam with Alqueva Tours. Join a guided boat tour for a relaxed journey around the dam and discover all the nooks and crannies for yourself. Aquelva tours also run sunset cruises with region wine – yes please!

ALQUEVA TOURS

A Day in Moura

A trip to Baixo Alentejo wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Moura. Moura is an enchanting city to walk around and streets like this are easy to come by. Go, wander, get lost.

Local Wine and Regional Produce Tasting at Casa Cavalheiro

Baixo Alentejo has an embarrassing amount of DOP products to be proud of including wine, cheese, olive oil and black pork. If you are looking for some genuine products to take home then a stop off at the beautiful Casa Cavalheiro is a must. The shop has a 100 year history and is owned by Gina and Manuel Luis who are quite possibly the friendliest people you will ever meet. Casa Cavalheiro produce their own cured meats and the whole process is done within the shop. They also offer wine and petisco tasting.

CASA CAVALHEIRO

There is no denying it, summer afternoons in Baixo Alentejo can be stifling. When it get’s to that point in the day there is only one thing for it – ice cream! I had had the most delicious ‘Dom Rodrigo’ ice cream at Caprixus (who creates all-natural ice cream) which definitely made the crazy heat more enjoyable.

If you are looking for an authentic feed (and local wine menu) while in Moura I can recommend O Vermelhudo. Rita from Burrico d’Orada knows all the best places for a true lunch or dinner experience in the city so be sure to ask for more recommendations.

aaaand relax! Massage!

Late afternoon massage in a warm breeze under an olive tree? Yes please! If you really want to get into the spirit of chilling then definitely indulge in a massage with VIP Relax.

VIP RELAX MASSAGE

Eat, Drink and Enjoy the Moment : Savour the flavours with Alentejana cuisine

Alentejo is home to some of the Portugal’s best cuisine. One of my favourite ways to experience a region is through food and local restaurants. If you seek out the most authentic restaurants you will not only be able to taste mouthwatering dishes you’ll also get to experience a little piece of the Alentejana lifestyle. The atmosphere in these types of restaurants is one that cannot be replicated elsewhere.

So what is there to say about the cuisine in Alentejo? Let’s start with this. Alentejo is a ‘meaty’ place. I eat a pescatarian diet most of the time and for me at least, Alentejana food is very heavy. However even I was able to appreciate the perfectly cooked, ridiculously tasty, porco preto (black pork) in this local restaurant in Pias. Another must-try dish is migas. I don’t know how to describe this other than it’s a stodgy, bready heaven; the sort of thing I crave during a hangover. Not forgetting carne de porco à Alentejana (black pork with clams) which is another very tasty restaurant staple.

If you are not a big meat eater then there are lighter options in the form of beautiful fish dishes including gaspacho a Alentejana with carapauzinhos fritos (little, crispy, fried fish) – delicious on a hot summer day!

Fresh veggies and fruit can be found in abundance in local markets across Baixo Alentejo and buying your groceries here is another great way to experience local life.

Not forgetting the delicious Alentejana sheep’s cheese including Serpa’s DOP version. Head to Serpa market to stock up on the very best cheese and enjoy with a picnic somewhere in the Baixo Alentejo countryside.

Rita from Burrico d’Orada can point you in the direction of the very best restaurants for a local vibe and typical (and delicious) cuisine.

WINE EXPERIENCES BAIXO ALENTEJO

I obviously couldn’t write about the best experiences available in Baixo Alentejo without mentioning my newest passion- wine! If you are a wine aficionado then you already know about this incredible wine region. As someone who had little interest in wine until a few a years ago finding Alentejo was a welcome surprise. Portugal has a blanket of vineyards from north to south and unearthing as many as possible is my current goal. So you can imagine how happy I was (beaming) to be invited to join 5 wine experiences during my last trip to Baixo Alentejo. I’m working on a separate guide for wine experiences in Alentejo (stay tuned) but in the meantime here are 5 you need to include in your Baixo Alentejo itinerary right now.

5 WINE EXPERIENCES IN BAIXO ALENTEJO

HERDADE DO ROCIM – If there is one thing that runs through all that they do at Herdade do Rocim it is a respect for the terroir; the land. Minimal intervention is practiced in the wine making process and the vineyard has a certified organic production area . At Herdade do Rocim they use a mix of modern and traditional methods including Talha.

We had a fantastic tour and tasting led by Bruno. I came away with a new favourite bottle of wine and a love for the grape ale ‘Mimi’ (made in Talha) both of which are produced from the native grape variety antão vaz. Herdade do Rocim offers several options for tours, tastings and experiences and also has a wine bar and restaurant.

HERDADE DO ROCIM

HERDADE GRANDE – An emblematic estate with a 100 year history. The family have been celebrating offerings from the land for four generations and work to preserve the iconic varieties from this region. Herdade Grande produce wines with character and elegance.

Herdade Grande offers several wine tasting options that take place in a beautiful room overlooking the vines. They also offer a sunset picnic (vegan version available) with regional produce and wine. In my eyes this would be the perfect Alentejo experience and I will definitely be booking into next time I am in the area.

HERDADE GRANDE

QUINTA DO PARAL – With a focus on sustainability and craftsmanship Quinta do Paral produced distinguished and high quality wines.

We were lucky enough to try some very special wines here. Usually I don’t enjoy rosé wines, I find them too sweet. Quinta do Paral changed my mind on rosé and I think I’ll be enjoying a good few bottles from this vineyard over the summer.

QUINTA DO PARAL

QUINTA DO QUETZAL – Quinta do Quetzal produces wines exclusively with grapes from the area and protects ancient traditions in a modern wine cellar. You can choose from many tours, tastings and unique experiences at quinta do Quetzal but make sure you don’t miss out on dining in the restaurant.

The restaurant on the estate is one of my favourite wine/restaurants experiences I have been lucky enough to experience in Portugal to date. You would be hard pushed to find another restaurant in the area with views to match the excellent food and wine. The atmosphere is ‘just right’ , relaxed and inviting, light and airy. I would go back in a heartbeat.

QUINTA DO QUETZAL

ADEGA VIDIGUEIRA – A modern and prominent vineyard working with 300 partners. The Vidigueira Co-operative was created to protect the vineyards, wine and grape varieties such as the native antão vaz in the sub-region Vidigueira.

ADEGA VIDIGUEIRA

Rita from Burrico d’Orada can help book and organise all of these experiences and more. Do you have something particular in mind? Rita know’s Baixo Alentejo inside out and can help you create your dream trip.

So there you have it – Baixo Alentejo – a land to be discovered and savoured. If you are looking for a way to experience real Portugal then dive into slow tourism in Alentejo. Boas viagens!

Évora, Portugal | a quick guide to the capital of alentejo

May 23, 2021

Welcome to Évora, the UNESCO world heritage city in Portugal. Évora is the capital of Portugal’s most undiscovered (and arguably most authentic) region – Alentejo. I have just returned from my second trip to this charming, historical city and now that I have my bearings it feels like the perfect time to share this quick travel guide. My favourite travel pass time is wandering and Évora is made for wandering. The city is surprisingly compact but with a maze of cobbled streets to navigate it is the best location to truly ‘get lost’.

WHERE IS ÉVORA?

The city of Évora is nestled neatly in the middle of Alentejo in the southern central part of Portugal. Being in the centre of the quietest region you might expect that it is difficult to get to but, Évora is less than a 90 minute drive from Lisbon. This short distance makes it an ideal day trip or get-away.

HOW TO GET TO ÉVORA

Évora is one of the more accessible parts of Alentejo and is easy to reach from Lisbon. Although there are trains and buses between the capital and Évora I would recommend hiring a car, especially if you have more than a few days in Portugal. The drive from Lisbon to Évora is an experience in itself. Once you leave the cityscape of Lisbon behind you’ll drive past acres and acres of cork forests before reaching the castle walls of Évora.

HOW TO HIRE A CAR IN PORTUGAL

WHERE TO STAY IN ÉVORA

So now you know how to get to Évora you might want to ask ‘Where should I stay in Évora?’. Luckily for you there is no shortage of accommodation options in Évora. I want to share two places I have personally stayed and can recommend.

If you want to stay in the heart of Évora then Casa Vitória Guest House is your place. You’ll find a collection of basic but comfortable apartments surrounding a traditional patio. At just a 5 minute walk from the roman temple and Praça do Giraldo you couldn’t be more central.

If you are looking for a more relaxing stay away from the bustle then book up at Quinta da Espada. Located a short drive (or Uber) out of the city Quinta da Espada features traditional rooms and a pool – essential for hot summer days!

Another great option just out of the centre (this would be best if you had a car) is Octant which has several pools, a farm and a fantastic restaurant and bar. The breakfast is also the best i’ve had in Portugal! This would be a good choice for kids as there are lots of activities on site.

As I mentioned before Évora is brimming with places to stay. I usually book with BookingCom as I find the platform offers the largest selection of accommodation and best value but always check if you can book direct with smaller businesses.

Booking.com

5 REASONS TO VISIT ÉVORA

GASTRONOMY. Évora is a foodie paradise. If you want a taste of Portugal Alentejo can offer some of the very best produce. We’re talking black pork, freshly baked bread and hearty soups. Not forgetting the convent sweets and pastries.
MIND BLOWING HISTORY. I’m the first to admit not being a history buff but even with little interest in past eras it is hard not to be impressed by the 1st century AD (!!) Roman Temple.

THE CREEPY MUSEUM. A museum of human bones? Oh go on then.
AFTERNOON DRINKS AT PRAÇA DO GIRALDO. Get caught up in the bustle at the main square in Évora. The best place for an afternoon drink.

WINE ANYONE? Évora is surrounded by vineyards and is the perfect base for enotourism in Alentejo. Don’t forget to drop into Rota dos Vinhos do Alentejo to plan your wine trip around the region.

WHERE TO EAT IN ÉVORA

If you want to do nothing other than eat and drink in Évora you will not be disappointed. A few foodie delights you should try whilst in the capital of Alentejo include ‘porco preto’, ‘açorda à Alentejana’ and ‘queijinho do ceu’. Here is a selection of restaurants and cafes you need to add to your itinerary right now.

USEFUL TIPS FOR ÉVORA

WHERE TO PARK IN ÉVORA

There is a large dirt car-park available with free parking just outside the city walls. Providing it is not during a holiday/market day you should be able to find a spot easy enough.

MONEY IN ÉVORA

Most restaurants will take cash and card but some of the smaller ones will only accept Portuguese bank cards. There are plenty of ATM’s available. Use bank ATM’s rather than ‘Euro’ cash points to avoid crazy fees. I always recommend traveling with a WISE card for the best exchange rates.

TIMINGS IN ÉVORA

Restaurants typically open between 12-3 pm for lunch and 6 pm-late for dinner. Some establishments close completely between lunch and evening service. Some restaurants, bars and museums close on Monday, Tuesday or both but stay open on weekends. Make sure to check before arrival.

LANGUAGE IN ÉVORA

You can get by with English in most towns and cities with tourist infrastructure in Portugal. However, learning a few basic phrases in Português before you arrive will go a long way. The locals will greatly appreciate your effort and I promise you a more authentic experience when you converse in this way. Let’s all do what we can to keep the language and culture of Portugal alive.

So there you go, a quick guide to Évora. Hopefully this travel guide inspires you to include this UNESCO city to your Portugal itinerary.

How to Hire a Car in Portugal

May 23, 2021

I am no stranger to car hire in Portugal. After 5 years of living in and driving around Portugal I have discovered how to hire a car successfully. I’ve used hire cars to travel around every region. I have driven around Douro Valley in search of wine experiences, along Algarve’s sunny coastline, through undiscovered Alentejo and navigated roads in both Lisbon and Porto in a hire car.

I even moved house from Lagos to Lisbon using a hire car!

How to get from Lisbon to Lagos

WHY USE A HIRE CAR IN PORTUGAL?

Unless you are hopping in and out of the country very quickly or plan on staying put in a resort for the duration of your holiday then it makes sense to hire a car in Portugal.

There are many reasons to choose to a hire car in Portugal. Of course there are trains, buses and boats in Portugal but as soon as you stray away from the busy hubs of Lisbon and Porto these transport links start to dry up. There is a fantastic rail line that runs between and Algarve and the North but again, the further you travel from that line the harder it becomes to get around. This leaves some of the best parts of Portugal out of reach. Hiring a car enables you to discover everything Portugal has to offer. Alentejo is a great example of a region best explored by car!

ALENTEJO 10 DAY ITINERARY

One of the most common questions I come across when helping people plan their trip to Portugal is ‘How do I hire a car?’. With an overwhelming number of options and so many horror stories it is understandably one of the least enjoyable parts of planning a trip. I experienced these same challenges over and over again. After a lot of trial and error and many years of driving around Portugal I finally worked out how to hire a car and stay sane while doing it.

HOW TO HIRE A CAR IN PORTUGAL

With so many rental car companies in Portugal it can be overwhelming to find the right fit. So the first bit of advice I can give for ‘how to hire a car in Portugal’ is : use a comparison site.

There are several comparison websites for car hire in Portugal but beware, most are complicated and frustrating to use. Many companies use sneaky tactics to hide prices until the end of the booking process which is infuriating. After many disappointing car hire experiences with other companies I was starting to give up but then I found Zest. I first used Zest to book a hire car in Portugal several years ago and, thanks to an excellent experience, I’ve used them ever since.

Zest is a comparison website so helps you compare vehicles and companies based on your location, pick-up and drop-off, car type and length of hire. Zest enables you to see the prices upfront so you know exactly what you are getting. There are no surprises waiting for you at check-out. The search function is very easy to use and there is no jargon to navigate. Zest also includes FULL COLLISION DAMAGE WAIVER WITH NO EXCESS. I have personally used this after an unfortunate accident involving a broken tail light and Zest took care of everything for me. To top it off the customer service is excellent.

BOOK A HIRE CAR IN PORTUGAL

HOW TO HIRE A CAR IN PORTUGAL : A STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE

Visit Zest
Choose pick-up and drop-off location and age. Click ‘Search’.
Choose any filters such as category, doors, air-con etc
Find a suitable car
Click ‘View Rental Conditions’ to see full condition. Note any mandatory local charges.
Choose optional extras. One extra driver is free. Choose ‘Toll Transponder’ if you plan on going on any motorways.
Review insurance. Full Collision Damage Waiver with no excess comes as standard. I personally add top-up insurance at this point which covers the extra bits like damage to wheels or loss of keys.
Confirm Driver Details
Continue to payment
DONE!

TIPS FOR HIRING WITH ZEST

DON’T BE AFRAID OF SMALLER COMPANIES Some of my best car hire experiences have been with smaller companies. These companies are often more flexible too.
BE FLEXIBLE WITH DATES. Prices are sometimes cheaper when you pick up mid-week.
CONSIDER A LONGER HIRE. Prices are often cheaper when you book for 7 days or longer.
COMPARE PICK-UP/ DROP-OFF LOCATIONS. Airports tend to add a pick-up fee but are usually the most convenient. Picking up from city centres can be more stressful if it is your first time driving in Portugal.
BOOK IN ADVANCE During peak times car hire can and does get fully booked. Booking your hire car in advance saves a lot of stress on arrival.

BOOK CAR HIRE IN PORTUGAL

HIRING A CAR WITHOUT A CREDIT CARD

A common question I see is ‘can I hire a car in Portugal without a credit card?’. Most companies only accept a valid credit card (not pre-paid) when hiring a car. However some companies do accept without. When searching with Zest click on ‘view rental conditions’ under the photo of the car to see everything you need.

I hope this post can help ease any of the worries that naturally come with the car hire process. Now you have everything you need to hire a car in Portugal. Boa viagem!

Have you booked your accommodation in Portugal yet?

Booking.com

*Some links included in this guide are affiliate links. This means if you click through one of these links and make a purchase I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products and services I have personally used. Zest is one of a few companies I have used again and again while living in Portugal.

5 Unique Places to Stay in Alentejo, Portugal

October 8, 2020

The Alentejo is Portugal’s most undiscovered region but there are countless reasons to visit this magical landscape. Thanks to the diverse landscape, hilltop villages and many vineyards there is no shortage of unique places to stay in Alentejo. If you want to find the real Portugal spend some time getting to know Alentejo.

WHERE TO STAY IN ALENTEJO

Alentejo is Portugal’s largest region and stretches from the hot south all the way up to the cooler central and north regions so deciding where to stay can be overwhelming.

Alentejo can be split into 3 areas Alto, Baixo and Centro; each with their own landscape, character and charm . Alentejo deserves time to explore. If you have the time I encourage you to experience staying in each area. However, don’t worry if you only have a few days to explore, you’ll still be able to capture the warmth of Alentejo.

*Some links included in this guide are affiliate links. This means if you click through one of these links and make a purchase I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. If you find my content useful or inspiring please consider using these links.

FINDING ACCOMMODATION IN ALENTEJO

I understand why finding the right accommodation in Alentejo might seem like a chore but it doesn’t have to be.

If possible, I encourage you to book directly with small businesses (guesthouses/ bnb’s etc) so that they can benefit from your booking without loosing a commission to the bigger companies.

Otherwise my go-to search website is BookingCom. I find they have the widest range of best value options. I also check in with Air BnB to compare. I personally prefer self-catering/ apartments when I travel as I find these offer the most unique places to stay. However Alentejo has plenty of different options including hotels, b+b’s, cottages, camping and resorts. Go jump in!

Booking.com

5 UNIQUE STAYS IN ALENTEJO, PORTUGAL

Now let me share my favourite places to stay in Alentejo. I have personally stayed in all the places you see below and can recommend them.

STAY INSIDE THE CASTLE WALLS | MARUAN HEAVEN, MARVÃO

3 bedroom holiday home : Sleeps 6

The perfectly kept Medieval village of Marvão is an essential stop on any Alentejo itinerary. You actually get to drive through the castle walls of this hilltop village to reach your stay at Maruan Heaven. The house still has original features and is equipped with everything you could need for a short or long stay. The best bit about Maruan Heaven though is the sunrise balcony overlooking beautiful Alentejo.

BOOK MARUAN HEAVEN

IN NATURE | QUINTA DA DOURADA, SÃO SERRA MAMEDE

Rooms + apartments available

Relax in nature at this traditional Quinta in the serene São Serra Mamede natural park. To reach Quinta da Dourada you’ll drive through some of Portugal’s best scenery and then take a narrow gravel track to your very own slice of tranquility. The Quinta is family-run and you can guarantee owner Nuno will take good care of you during you stay.

BOOK QUINTA DA DOURADA

AND RELAX | QUINTA DA ESPADA, ÉVORA

This little haven of calm sits just 4km from the bustle of Évora. Stay in the best location in central Alentejo whilst remaining totally chilled. Quinta da Espada features traditional furniture in the bedrooms and alfresco breakfast is served on original Bordello Portuguese ceramics. Every detail and piece decoration at Quinta da Espada pays homage to Alentejo.

BOOK QUINTA DA ESPADA

ESSENTIAL ALENTEJO | CASA TIA ANICA, MONSARAZ

Holiday home : 4 people

Monsaraz is one of Alentejo’s more well-known villages and with good reason. This hilltop village is a beauty to behold and you won’t help but gawk at it’s pretty streets and medieval details. For the ultimate experience in Monsaraz travel back in time and book a stay at Casa Tia Anica.

BOOK CASA TIA ANICA

MEET THE LOCALS | CASA PORFIRIOS, REDONDO

Studio apartment : Sleeps 2

If you want to find an authentic stay in a traditional village Casa Porfiros is your spot. This cosy well designed studio has a window that opens straight on to the street and looks out towards the church. Redondo is a gorgeous village in central Alentejo just a half an hour drive from Évora. The village is a maze of white buildings with colourful façades and is home to a wine museum. Redondo is a DOC wine region and there are plenty of well-known vineyards close by.

SEE MORE OF PORTUGAL

WINE TASTING ALGARVE

DOURO VALLEY WINE EXPERIENCES

LAGOS TRAVEL GUIDE

Alentejo, Portugal | A 10 Day Itinerary

October 8, 2020

I recently returned from an 10 day road trip around Alentejo, Portugal. I drove 1500km around Portugal’s largest region in search of hidden villages, stunning views and unforgettable experiences. Alentejo delivered. I found all of the above and so, so much more. Alentejo turned out to be one of the best trips I have ever experienced and so I had to share my epic 10 day itinerary with you. Here are some other memorable road trips to take in Portugal.

On this particular Alentejo trip I stuck to the interior so you won’t see any coastal areas such as Porto Covo and Vila Nova de Milfontes in this itinerary.

WHY VISIT ALENTEJO?

Alentejo is Portugal’s largest yet most undiscovered region. You only have to hop over the border from Lisbon or Algarve to experience the warmth and character of Alentejo. To me Alentejo represents the ‘real’ Portugal and there is plenty of culture to soak up. The region is vast and the landscape changes constantly from north to south. Travel from top to bottom and you can expect mountains and valleys, vineyards and sunflower fields, medieval castles and a wild coastline.

Discover Slow Tourism in Baixo Alentejo

I have always loved living in Portugal but it wasn’t until my return from Alentejo that I really fell in love. Spending 10 days getting to know Alentejo left me with a bigger understanding and appreciation for Portugal than ever before.

If you want to find out more in-depth information about the Alentejo region don’t forget to visit the Visit Alentejo website.

WHERE IS ALENTEJO?

The Alentejo is the largest region in Portugal which is located on the Iberian peninsula. It is bordered by the Algarve, Lisbon and Central regions and despite being the largest region in the country it attracts the lowest number of visitors in mainland Portugal.

Sadly Alentejo slips under most people’s radar when they visit Portugal. Most people choose to spend their time in Algarve, Lisbon or Porto but I’m here to prove why Alentejo deserves just as much (or even more) attention that these longtime favourite destinations.

HOW TO GET TO ALENTEJO?

The region is easily accessible from all of Portugal’s major airports (Lisbon, Porto and Faro). Which one you choose will depend on how long you have in the region and what itinerary you are planning to take.

Although most towns and villages are accessible by train or (more likely) bus the best way to ensure you get the most out of Alentejo is by hiring a car. Having a car ill give you more freedom and flexibility with your itinerary but cruising around in your own four wheels (in my humble opinion) is the best way to experience Alentejo.

I used Zest to book a hire car for my Alentejo adventure and the experience was stress-free from start to finish.

BEST 10 DAY ITINERARY FOR ALENTEJO

I spent 10 days exploring Alentejo and was able to experience the region fully. Of course there is still plenty more I want to see but this 10 day itinerary will show you the absolute best the region has to offer. I spent weeks of research making sure my itinerary included the perfect mix of medieval hilltop towns, castles, vineyards, cute villages and unforgettable experiences. There will always be more to discover but this 10 day itinerary will allow you to really get beneath the surface of the Alentejo.

This itinerary is the exact route I took around the Alentejo and includes overnight stays and day trips. I have included links for accommodation options in each place. I pride myself on only sharing personal recommendations – these are places I actually stayed during my trip to Alentejo.

Make sure you check out these 5 UNIQUE PLACES TO STAY IN ALENTEJO.

I drove from Algarve and returned to Algarve. If you are driving from Lisbon or Porto you can switch the itinerary around easily enough. If you only have a short amount of time I recommend basing yourself in central Alentejo and making day trips from Ėvora.

MÉRTOLA

This gem of a medieval village sits proudly on the Guadiana river just a whisper into the region. It is small enough to wander around in a day but if you have the time stay for a few nights and enjoy the picturesque streets without rushing. If you have extra time take a drive to one of the river beaches nearby.

STAY | Mértola Studios or for something more upmarket try Hotel Museu

EAT/ DRINK | Espaco Casa Amarela

EXPERIENCE | Dinner, wine and sunset at Espaco Casa Amarela on the other side of the river.

VILA VIÇOSA

I spent a few hours walking the beautiful streets of Vila Viçosa and loved the spotting the pretty tiles, choosing an alfresco cafe and browsing typical artisan products from the region. This would be a great stay over too! Check out Bookingcom for Vila Viçosa accommodation options.

SERRA DE SÃO MAMEDE NATURAL PARK

I didn’t even know this natural park existed until I stayed at a beautiful Quinta (Quinta da Dourada) just outside Portalegre. The natural park is a dream to drive around; quiet, winding (but not too winding) roads with seriously gorgeous views. You can also visit one of Alentejo’s highest points in São Mamede, this summit gets snow in the winter which is unimaginable when you visit in July! I highly recommend the drive from Quinta da Dourada to Castelo de Vide.

STAY | Quinta da Dourada

EAT/DRINK | At the Quinta. Contact the owner Nuno in advance and you’ll be able to enjoy delicious Portuguese home cooking during your stay.

EXPERIENCE | Driving through the Mamede Natural Park.

CASTELO DE VIDE

I only spent a matter of hours here but I can confidently tell you it as one of my favourite places I visited in Alentejo. Castelo de Vide feels lived in yet looks beautiful from top to bottom. People shout from windows and Fado music drifts in and out of houses. It is also the most ‘flowery’ place I saw on my trip. Every house was a piece of wild art!

Booking.com

MARVÃO

Another big favourite for me was experiencing Marvão. This hilltop village is picture perfect, so much so that it kind of feels like you are in a medieval theme park. It may look like it is geared up solely for tourists but there is still authenticity to be found when you peek around the corners. Don’t leave until you have walked the circumference of the castle walls

STAY | Maruan Heaven

EAT/DRINK | O Castelo

EXPERIENCE | Sunset from Marvão castle

REDONDO

The cutest village in central Alentejo you ever did see. White houses beam in the afternoon sunshine, olive groves stretch out from it’s borders and locals remain curious but friendly towards newcomers. Rendondo is also a DOC wine region and pottery centre. The town has a good selection of restaurants and bars and is well worth a stop overnight.

STAY | Casa Porfirios

EAT/DRINK | Choose a lively one in the main square.

EXPERIENCE | Drinking with the locals at an authentic snack bar. There is also a wine museum and plenty of vineyards close by!

ÉVORA

The capital of Alentejo and its most well-known asset. Évora is probably the busiest you’re going to get when it comes to Alentejo but with good reason. The city is steeped in history, full of authentic Alentejan cuisine and surrounded by some of the region’s best vineyards. I have to admit I didn’t get a chance to make the most of Évora but I will certainly be back to spend a few days enjoying the city buzz.

Évora | A Quick Guide

STAY | Quinta da Espada

EAT/DRINK | Quiosque Jardim Diana

EXPERIENCE | Capela dos Ossos (Chaple of bones). Enjoying tapas and cocktails with a view!

MONTE DA RAVESQUEIRA

I’m mentioning this as a must-stop experience on your Alentejo itinerary because Monte da Ravasqueira is one of the most alluring vineyards I have visited in Portugal to date. The experience also introduced me to my new go-to bottle of vinho branco. I have several chilling in my fridge as I write this. Book a tour, tasting or experience and you will be welcomed warmly, invited to sip on some award-winning wines and enjoy time soaking up sun-drenched vineyard views and the real beauty of Alentejo. Of course, Alentejo is not short on wine experiences and I fully encourage you to squeeze in a few if you can; but, if you only have time for one vineyard during your trip make it this one! Located only 5km from Arraiolos and 25km from Évora.

You can read more about my wine travels in Portugal here (coming soon).

ESTREMOZ

Estremoz sits nicely between Évora and Elvas and has an attractive buzz about it. It is obvious that this isn’t a tourist town but there are lots of cute streets and a pretty epic castle view to top it off. Estremoz also has plenty of vineyards within a short distance.

STAY | Find a great apartment in Estremoz on Bookingcom.

EAT/DRINK | Alcrim

EXPERIENCE | Take a stroll up to the old castle wall and take in the vineyard views.

MONSARAZ

Most people who already know about Alentejo will direct you to Monsaraz as a place to add to your itinerary and with good reason too. Monsaraz is pocket-sized and picturesque (almost to a fault) and a magical introduction to Alentejo. Tiny streets boast restaurants with panoramic views and little nooks host artisan shops filled with ceramics and honey.

STAY | Casa Tia Anica

EAT/DRINK | I ate in my apartment during my stay but I had several recommendations for Taverna Os Templários and Restaurante Bar Sem-Fim.

EXPERIENCE | Wandering the cobbled streets early morning.

VIDIGUEIRA

This town usually doesn’t make it on a typical Alentejo itinerary which is exactly why i wanted to visit. Vidigueira is actually a really important town for the history of wine in Portugal and its also delightful to explore by foot.

STAY | Casa Grainha

EAT/DRINK | Enjoy a cold beer at Casao Da Praça.

EXPERIENCE | Adega Cooperativa Vidigueira for a wine tour and unique Talha wine tasting.

So here ends my Alentejo itinerary! I hope this helps you capture at least a small picture of how wonderful this region is to explore. Stay tuned for a complete ‘’Alentejo travel guide’ and ‘unique places to stay guide’.

Don’t forget to check out my other Portugal experience based travel guides.

PORTO TRAVEL GUIDE

DOURO VALLEY WINE EXPERIENCES

WINE TASTING ALGARVE

Tavira Portugal | A Quick Guide

September 8, 2020

Tavira is a gorgeous Algarvian town located in the warmest and sunniest corner of Portugal. Tavira has it all – a charming old town, a medieval castle, authentic restaurants, river-side bars, an 11km island with white sand beach and a beautiful natural park.

WHERE IS TAVIRA

Tavira is located in east Algarve on Portugal’s south coast. Just a 30 minute drive from Faro and close to the Spanish border (just two hours from Seville). It is an alternative to the usually more popular Lagos.

WHERE TO STAY IN TAVIRA

There is no shortage of accommodation options in and out of Tavira but during my search I did find it difficult to find good quality rooms. When I finally found Formosa Guest House I was able to celebrate. The photos looks great online but it is even more wonderful in real life. The guest house is right on the Praça da República in the old town and offers bright, well- styled rooms with balconies and a spectacular view over the river. My stay here turned out to be one of my favourites in Portugal to date.

>> BOOK YOUR STAY <<

Booking.com

WHAT TO DO IN TAVIRA

Whether you are staying for a few days or a few weeks you will find plenty to do to keep you mesmerised with this Algarvian town. Here are a few things you should add to your itinerary while you are in Tavira :

Bask in sunshine on Ilha de Tavira
Get lost in the charming old town
Watch sunset from the Ponte Romana bridge
Find backstreet tapas

BEST CAFES TAVIRA

There are lots of cafes to satisfy your coffee/breakfast/brunch needs in Tavira and lots ate open early which can be hard to find in Portugal. Some of my personal favourites :

Flavour Cafe – Everything from eggs and granola to pancakes and waffles. Friendly service too!
Vegancies – Excellent vegan cafe and shop

BEST BARS + RESTAURANTS IN TAVIRA

There are so many bars in Tavira. Everything from little backstreet dens to busy main square hangouts. I had no problem finding beers, good wine and cocktails during my time in Tavira. Some spots I recommend to check out :

Arcada – Right on the Praça da República. Perfect for a sundowner.
Tasca do Zé André – The cheapest and best Aperol spritz in town plus great tapas)
Rosa e Gianni – Small, cosy Italian with fresh pasta
Delizia da Ponte – Excellent ice-cream. Need I say more?

BEST EXPERIENCES IN TAVIRA

As always my favourite thing to do while visiting a new place is wandering the backstreets with no plan and seeing what I can find. I recommend doing just that in Tavira; set off on a self-guided tour and breathe in the sights and sounds of the town. While you here there are a few experiences you shouldn’t miss. I find these types of experiences leave you with the best memories of a place.

ESCAPING THE CROWDS ON ILHA DE TAVIRA

Pulling into Ilha de Tavira can be a little overwhelming in summer due to the crowds flocking off the beach. Luckily the Tavira island is 11km long so there is plenty of space for everyone. Take off behind the sand dunes and walk 10 minutes along the back of the beach to find your own private stretch of sand for the day.

FIND A BACKSTREET TAPAS BAR

Tavira has some great hidden tapas bars to be found. Take yourself on a wander around the cobbled streets in search of cheap and tasty tapas.

PRAÇA DA REPÚBLICA AT SUNSET

Tavira’s main square is a pleasure at all times of day but grab a seat for an hour or so before sunset, order a drink of something delicious and soak up the buzz.

Money in Portugal

The majority of places accept card but some smaller places only accept cash or non-foreign cards. Always carry some cash with you. ATM’s are easy to find all over the town. Unless you already have a Euro currency bank account I highly recommend getting a Wise Card. This will allow you to hold and exchange multiple currencies at the best possible rate. There is no charge for withdrawing or using your card to pay. I’ve been living in Portugal since 2016 and I use Wise as my primary bank card here despite also having a Portuguese bank account.

Top tip: Avoid Multi Currency machines such as ‘Euronet’ (usually set up outside souvenir shops etc) as they charge you 3 or 4 euro to withdraw. Always use actual bank ATM’s to withdraw money.

Tavira is one of my favourite towns in the Algarve and I’m looking forward to spending some more time getting to know it. Hopefully this mini travel guide to Tavira can help you plan your next trip.

Porto Covo Travel Guide

April 17, 2019

Part of the joy of living in Portugal is discovering the diversity between each region. Last week we left Algarve behind for a few days and ventured to a region rich with culture and character – The Alentejo. With the majority of the region heavily relying on agriculture, livestock and forestry it is here you will find many authentic towns showcasing real Portugal . Having previously visited Vila Nova de Milfontes we wanted to experience a smaller, more traditional town on the coast and Porto Covo ticked all our boxes.

Porto Covo, although a popular tourist destination during the summer months, is still very much a fishing village with traditional architecture and a local feel. Located almost halfway between Lisbon and Faro it is around a two hour drive from either airport.

CENTRO

Praça Marques de Pombal (town centre) is a picturesque square of neatly painted cafes and restaurants with blue facades and a traditional church. You will find the majority of restaurants, bars and shops here along with Rua Vasco da Gama. The main square is an ideal spot so spend a few hours chatting with friends, drinking cold beers and soaking up the sun in one of the pretty corner cafes.

THE COAST

One of the most inviting aspects of Porto Covo (translated as Port of the fishing nets) is its string of coves and beaches that stretch almost as far as SInes. Even if you only have a short time in the area go for a stroll along at least some of the stunning coastal path.

There are many secluded spots to be found along the coast here but if you do go searching for the nooks and crannies make sure you know if the tide is on its way in or out so you don’t get caught out. We walked from the 3.5km from the harbour to Praia do Burrinho and back again which gave us plenty of time to pick our favourite beaches (Praia do Serra Aguia and Praia da Samoqueira). If walking is not your thing and you are coming by car or camper there are dedicated parking spots above most of the larger beaches.

SEAFOOD AND EAT IT

If seafood is your thing you’re going to love it here. We only had two days and nights to sample restaurants so we followed our usual rule (eat where the locals eat) and were handsomely rewarded with traditional, tasty food on all occasions.

For a fresh seafood lunch stop off at O Pescador on R. Vasca da Gama. Choose your fresh fish from the counter and it will be served to you perfectly cooked with a delicious bbq taste. Or eat like a local and indulge in a typical dish such as Polvo (Octopus). Wash it down with a cheap (€3.50 a litre) yet tasty jug of white wine and pat yourself on the back for choosing so wisely.

For a cosy and traditional affair head to Restaurante O Torreão located on the main square and sit inside. If we could give you only one suggestion it would be the mussels – they are huge! The dessert list here is as long as your arm and a slab of cheesecake will set you back only €2.70 so get stuck in!

Fresh grilled ‘Dourada’ | Restaurant O Pescador

The perfect afternoon lunch spot | Restaurant O Pescador

Cosy Portuguese dining at Restaurante O Torreão

There are lots of places to choose from when it comes to food but if you have a few nights in Porto Covo I would definitely recommend choosing a local spot for at least one of them. A few other restaurants we have added to our bucket list for next time should you want to try something different…. Zé Inácio, Restaurant Miramar and Marquês.

CAFE CULTURE

Portuguese coffee will never be my favourite, It is far too bitter for me personally. However of there is one thing the Portuguese are extremely good at its sweet treats. I mean the greatest tart in the world has to be a pastel de nata right? Whether its clever pastry technique, local ingredients (almonds, oranges, figs – yum!) or a whole load of sugar there is nothing that livens up my coffee moments in Portugal than one of the countries sweet treats. So you can imagine my excitement when I discovered the Pastel Marquês at the cafe Gelataria Marquês. – a perfect combination of almond, orange, egg, sugar and pumpkin. This pastel is a speciality of Porto Covo and a must while you are in town.

Cafe meia de leite e Pastel Marquês | Gelataria Marquês

FORGET-ME-NOT

Porto Covo, like most towns with a tourist influx during the summer, has the usual array of souvenir shops where you can buy pretty ceramics, sardine ornaments and retro postcards. This particular shop (opposite restaurant O Pescador) caught my eye so I wandered in and found a cave of eclectic array of home wears from ceramics jugs to bamboo mirrors to metal roosters. If you’re the type of person who likes to take a reminder of their travels home with them (like me) then check out a few of the shops on the R Vasco da Gama. There is also a few gorgeous clothing boutiques full to the brim with beautiful holiday pieces. My favourite was Hipiie Chic who stocks the most stunning summer dresses.

WHERE TO STAY

We decided to camp for our recent trip to Porto Covo and stayed in the central campsite Camping Porto Covo. The campsite offered plenty of space, a pool (summer), bar and bbq area and is just a 5 minute stroll from the centre.

There are also lots of options on booking.com

Booking.com

Money in Portugal

Top tip: Avoid Multi Currency machines such as ‘Euronet’ (usually set up outside souvenir shops etc) as they charge you 3 or 4 euro to withdraw. Always use actual bank ATM’s to withdraw money.

Since moving to Algarve almost 3 years ago we have been exploring Portugal. Looking for some more inspirational destinations in Portugal. Have a peek at our travel guides and start planning your Portugal itinerary.

Lisbon Food and Drink Guide

August 25, 2018

Lisbon is one of my favourite cities in Europe. It helps that it is a short train from our home in the the Algarve and hosts some of the best foodie/drink experiences in Portugal. We try and visit the capital every few months to get our fill of the good stuff!

Our travel guides are based on real experiences. With the exception of Pastéis de Belém we have visited all of the bars and restaurants listed in our Lisbon eats + drinks guide. We only feature places we absolutely fall in love with and would/have returned to since our first discovery.

We’re big on finding the tiny, unassuming bars and restaurants as well as testing out some of those super popular spots. This means you’ll find a good variety of locations, styles and prices to ponder over. Now… go make yourself hungry and book some flights!

*Some links included in this guide are affiliate links. This means if you book through this link I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only include links for products and services I love and use regularly. Using these links helps me to build my small business and maintain this travel blog.

1. C O M O B A |
SPECIALITY COFFEE, BREAKFAST, JUICES + LUNCH
Rua de S. Paulo 99, 1200-109

A new addition to Lisbon, Comoba offers excellent speciality coffee, a tasty and filling breakfast and lunch menu (think breakfast burritos and matcha pancake stacks) and a light and airy space to enjoy it all.

2. T A B E R N A D A R U A D A S F L O R E S |
SMALL PLATES / TAPAS RESTAURANT LUNCH + DINNER
Rua das Flores 103, 1200-015

The tiny but charming Taberna Da Rua Das Flores offers a range of lunch specialities but it is the evening service that will have you salivating. The menu changes daily but you can expect creative and delicious menu Portuguese fusion. A waiter/waitress will talk you through a long but interesting menu and recommend you choose 3 dishes between 2 people (obviously we choose 4 and had no regrets!). I can hands down say that this was one of my favourite meals I have ever had.

DON’T MISS OUT: Taberna does not take bookings in advance. You need to turn up on the day at 6pm to book a table for that evening. Needless to say it is very, very popular so if this is top of your list while in Lisbon make sure you get there early to secure yourself an evening of foodie heaven.

3. W I N E & P I S C O |
BAR/COCKTAILS/WINE BAR
Largo do Duque de Cadaval, 1200-016

Cute wine and Pisco bar. For those of you unfamiliar with Pisco (as I was before visiting this bar) it is an un-aged brandy.
All you really need to know is it is made from distilled Peruvian grapes and is very drinkable,
especially on a hot afternoon after a day exploring the city.
Wine & Pisco is situated in a beautiful square and is the perfect place for a late afternoon drink before dinner.

4. L O J A D A S C O N S E R V A S |
TAPAS
Rua do Arsenal 130, 1100-040

Does what it says on the tin, literally. Loja Das Conservas translates as ‘tinned food shop’ and thats what this casual tapas bar serves up, but not as you know it. Hidden away down an unassuming alley this unique restaurant find serves up a mouthwatering range of tapas dishes all created from tinned fish. I was blown away by some of the flavour combinations here so if tinned fish isn’t your usual go-to let this place change your mind. Our tuna samosas paired perfectly with an ice cold beer and my other half enjoyed a flavoursome garfish.

Once you’ve got a taste for all the tinned food possibilities visit their shop next door and stock up on Portuguese sardines, tuna and more to take home and try out yourself.

Booking.com

5. A O U T R A F A C E D A L U A |
DRINKS + SNACKS
R. Asunción 22, 1100-044

Tea bar meets cocktail bar meets vintage shop and we’re totally ok with that. A Outra Face Da Lua has a relaxed but fun vibe with a great outdoor seating area where you can soak up the Lisbon scenery and provides a cracking jug of sangria to boot.

6. T I M E O U T M A R K E T |
ALL DAY FOOD HALL
Av. 24 de Julho 49, 1200-479

Epic food hall on the waterfront. A big and bustling space with tonnes of options from traditional Portuguese to Juicy burgers, Thai and Japanese. Ideal for loading up before your journey home or as an evening spot with a group who can’t agree on what to eat! There is a Manteigaria here to so you can stock up on those natas too.

7. E S T R E L L A D A B I C A |
EVENING TAPAS
Tv. do Cabral 33, 1200-073

Yet another atmospheric tapas bar with amazing dishes that meets all the requirements for a memorable evening. Estrella da Bica is a cosy tapas restaurant located mid way down the iconic Elevador da Bica. Its wide variety of dishes and local buzz will have you returning to night after night. Again, this is a popular spot so arrive early to book a table for the evening. There is plenty of lively bars around to help you muster up a hunger beforehand.

8. F A B R I C A C O F F E E R O A S T E R Y |
SPECIALITY COFFEE + LIGHT SNACKS
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 136
1150-269 + Estação do Oriente

Fuel up on (excellent) coffee at Fabrica and stock up on some freshly roasted beans to take home. This trendy brand roasts their own beans and supply many of the speciality coffee shops in Portugal. If you’re coming into or out of Lisbon via Oriente station you can also grab a coffee to go from their funky silver van. Beats a train station “coffee” thats for sure!

9. Q U I O S Q U E R I B E I R A D A S N A U S |
DRINKS WITH A VIEW
Av. Ribeira das Naus 5

When you’re in the city but wish you were on the beach or you just need some fresh air head to Naus 5 for a relax and a glass of something cold. Stress relieving deck chairs, a fully stocked bar and beautiful views across the Tagus…what more could you need?

10. N O O B A I |
ALL DAY BAR AND RESTAURANT WITH RIVER VIEWS
Miradouro de Santa Catarina (Adamastor), 1200-401

Perched up high at the Santa Caterina view point is Noobai. This multi-level restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks and effortlessly slides from day to night. So whether you’re here for a hangover breakfast, a fancy dinner and cocktails or just a few sunset beers the atmosphere will be perfect. The view over the Tagus isn’t too shabby either!

11. T A S C A D O C H I C O |
BAR AND EVENING RESTAURANT WITH LIVE FADO
R. do Diário de Notícias 39, 1200-141

We found this (almost invisible) bar in the middle of Bairro Alto whilst on the search for a beer. Chico is a tiny cave-like bar come restaurant with live Fado most nights. For what it lacks in space and light it makes up for in atmosphere and experience. If you want to secure table for a sit down meal during the show you’ll need to book a day in advance but you don’t need to eat (or have a table) to enjoy the live Fado here. Turn up between 830pm-9pm and grab a beer to enjoy in the street outside the bar. At 9pm they’ll usher as many people from outside into the bar as will fit and shut the door for a 10 minute Fado show. If you don’t make it in for this one don’t worry they’ll be another one shortly after. It is completely free to watch the Fado and you’ll experience it as the locals do – packed in like sardines! This bar is a real gem amongst many expensive and touristy Fado shows and we highly recommend it!

12. T Á B E R N A |
BAR / COCKTAILS
n75, Tv. dos Fiéis de Deus

Friendly staff, great beer snacks, excellent cocktails and music in the heart of Bairro Alto! This our usual spot for an after dinner drink and it never disappoints.

13. P A S T É I S D E B E L É M |
PASTEL DE NATAS
R. de Belém 84-92, 1300-085

The only place on our eats + drinks guide that we have not visited (yet!). I had to feature it on our list because apparently this is home to the best Pastel de nata in Lisbon which surely means it is the best in the world?! We attempted to visit during our last trip but mid July is crazy busy and the queues were unbearable. Next time, next time. Located out of the city centre in beautiful Belém – well worth a stop on your itinerary. If you want a world class nata in the city centre read on….

14. M A N T E I G A R I A |
PASTEIS DE NATAS
Rua do Loreto 2, 1200-108

If you can’t make it to Bélem don’t fear there is incredible pasteis de natas hidden all around the city in various bakeries and cafes. The main thing to remember is that these Portuguese tarts need to be eaten fresh so look for places that make them daily on site. One I highly recommend is Manteigaria where you can watch the sweet treats being made in front of your eyes and they do a delicious espresso too. It doesn’t get much fresher people!

15. T A P A S 5 2 |
TAPAS AND DRINKS
Dom Pedro V 52, 1250-092

As if you needed another tapas bar in Lisbon? But seriously, there is always room for more tapas. Boasting more than 60 authentic dishes, a huge range of drinks and alfresco streetside dining this is worth an afternoon of your time in Lisbon. The tapas is more expensive here than other spots but it has a great selection suitable for all types of foodies and the beer is cheap!

U N K N O W N |
SOMEWHERE IN LISBON

Enjoy our guide and check out some of our recommendations but don’t forget to forge your own foodie trail too. There are hundreds of bars, cafes and restaurants waiting to be discovered in Lisbon and we just haven’t found them yet! To get you started we dare you to try and find a Chouriço Assado (flaming Chorizo) in Bairro Alto.

Have fun!

Money in Portugal

Top tip: Avoid Multi Currency machines such as ‘Euronet’ (usually set up outside souvenir shops etc) as they charge you 3 or 4 euro to withdraw. Always use actual bank ATM’s to withdraw money.

Book Your Stay in Lisbon

Booking.com

TIME ZONE: GMT+0 (same as UK)

LANGUAGE: European Portuguese
Lisbon is a popular destination for British holidaymakers (and many other nationalities) so the majority of restaurants, cafes and bars speak good English. However, most Portuguese will appreciate you making a small effort when it comes to learning their language so even if it is a simple bom dia (good morning!) you should try you best while you are visiting beautiful Portugal.

Here is some very basic phrases and words to start with…

Hello Olá

Good Morning
Bom dia!

Good Afternoon
Boa tarde!

Good Night
Boa noite!

Thank you
Obrigado/a (male/female)

Do you speak English?
Fala inglês?

I speak a little Portuguese
Eu falo/a um pouco de Português

Bread Pão
Olives Azeitonas
Butter Manteiga
Chicken with piri piri Frango piri piri
Fish Peixe
Meat Carne
Dessert Sobremesa

Water sparkling/still Agua com gas/sem gas
Beer Cerveja
Red wine Vinho tinto
White wine Vinho branco
Green wine Vinho verde

Do you have? Você tem?
Yes Sim
No Não

If you haven’t booked your accommodation yet go and explore some of the options. There are so many cool apartments in Lisbon and if you book early you’ll get the best choice. My personal favourite? Look for first or second floor apartments with a balcony in Bairro Alto and you’ll be rewarded with memorable views!

Vila Nova de Milfontes Travel Guide

September 22, 2017

Situated in Portugal’s Alentejo region just 2 hours south of Lisbon, north of Faro and west from the Spanish border Vila Nova de Milfontes attracts hoards of local and foreign holiday-makers alike. In the summer months and busy holiday periods the medium-sized seaside town can reach bursting point but outside of these few crazy months you’ll find a balanced mix of refreshing nature and holiday vibes.

As part of the Costa Vincentina de Alentejano national park its bounty of beaches have remained untouched. VNDM’s sandy beaches and coves are improved only by the fact that it is this stretch of coast that the stunning Mira river chooses to meet the sea. Top it all off with a collection of breezy beach restaurants and alfresco cocktail bars and you are on to a winner! We spent 3 nights wild camping over Easter weekend and experienced a little bit of everything.

THE BEACHES

For a relatively small place there is no shortage of beaches to delve into. We spent the majority of our time at the picturesque Praia da Franquia which is the closest to town and sits on the river itself but there are lots more to explore. Praia do Farol wraps itself around the prominent headland and offers river and ocean views. At high tide you can find shallower section in-front of Choupana restaurant. Beware of the tide and current as it can be deceptively fast here and can easily catch you off-guard. Stay shallow at all times. Across the river is the white sandy paradise Praia das Furnas; you are more likely to find this stretch quieter as it involves a drive (or kayak) but the open beach can be more breezy than its neighbouring opposite. The views back to VNDM are worth the effort to get here from town!

SOI 55 HIDDEN CORNER

If you are heading to the town beaches over easter or summer expect them to be very busy but if you are making the trip out of season you can easily to baga little cove all to yourself…now that’s what we’re talking about!

Booking.com

MIRA RIVER

For me the 145km Mira river is the main draw to VNDM and its ever-changing tides and colours mean you can easily spend a day or two in or around its energy. Whether it be dipping your toes in on the edge of it’s bank or navigating a kayak through it to the bridge you’ll want to spend some time around the Mira.

WHERE TO EAT

There is plenty of restaurants and cafes around VNDM town but nothing came even a little bit close to this magical place right on Farol beach. Choupana restaurant is nestled neatly among the wild flowers , perched on wooden stilts complete with 180degree ocean views. On the menu you can expect uber fresh fish (caught the same day), excellent piri-piri chicken and 1litre jugs of the good stuff (wine obviously!). To be honest, even if the restaurant only served chips we would still have fallen in love. The fresh sea-breeze and uninterrupted, wild views secured it as our favourite dining experience in VNDM. Choupana certainly isn’t a secret but because it is hidden out of sight on what feels like it’s own private beach you will feel like you have stumbled upon a seriously special place. You won’t find this spot in the Lonely Planet!

TIP : Book your ‘table with a view’ in the morning or day before so you can take your pick of spots before anyone else.

If you have a few days in town then I highly recommend the Portal da Vila. This tiny restaurant will cram you in like Portuguese sardines and the tables are a little wonky but the food and wine was great and the atmosphere wonderful!

WHERE TO DRINK

Again there is no shortage of bars in VNDM but they are spread out all over the place so give yourself a bit of time to find what you are looking for before settling down. There is plenty of snack bars selling bargain booze on the main (rather ugly) strip but there is also plenty of quirkier areas to explore too. I was lured in by the colourful director chairs at Cá P’ramim (opposite Portal da Vila) and returned every night for a drink and olives. Expect to pay a little more than some of the standard bars here but if the cocktail of the day is anything like my strawberry mojito order three!

GET ACTIVE

If you’ve had enough of eating and drinking your way round town hire a kayak and set sail to the bridge and beyond. There is plenty of hire shops near the town beach and we found half a day was long enough to have a good explore. We headed up river and under the bridge where everything turns more wild yet peaceful and found some sandy banks to moor up and take it all in. Mornings tend to be better suited as the wind is usually much lighter and as the currents can be quite strong it is best to avoid heading out to sea! Ask the hire shop about tides and the best time to set off.

SOI 55 HIDDEN CORNER

If you love the idea of kayaking but don’t want to go on a full fitness mission you can cut it short and just paddle straight across the river to Praia das Furnas for a afternoon drink or seafood lunch at this hidden bar behind the dunes. There is nothing quite like the reward of a cold, crisp beer after a mini adventure!

DON’T FORGET TO GET LOST

There are so many nooks and corners filled with charm in Vila Nova de Milfontes you just have to find them. Take the road closest to the beach and follow the winding streets past colourful houses until you find your very own hidden discovery! Then order something local and delicious sounding from the menu.

WHEN TO GO

For a bit more space and a calmer vibes try to shoulder season months May, June, September. If you want to experience VNDM with all it’s amenities open book up for Easter or summer and enjoy the buzz. If you want to experience its beauty without the crowds try early spring/late autumn but remember VNDM is a seasonal town so bars and restaurants may be limited.

WHERE TO STAY

We chose to wild camp on the beach whilst in VNDM which involved setting up late and packing up early so we didn’t bother anyone. For more amenities and less hassle there are two camping options in town – Campiférias and Camping Milfontes.

If camping isn’t your jam there is plenty of hotels, guest houses and apartments to choose from…

Booking.com

GETTING AROUND

Town is small enough to walk around and for me, leaving the car and exploring by foot for 3 days was part of the pleasure. Many of the bars and restaurants are spread out so have a good stomp around on your first day to see whats around. If you are coming in holiday season expecting parking to be scarce so it is best to arrive early in the morning to curb the stress. Out of season parking will be easy (and free) and you can probably nab a spot right on the beach.

GETTING THERE AND AWAY

Vila Nova de Milfontes is around a 2 hour drive from Lisbon and Faro airport. There is also a Europcar in town so you can use this as a drop off of pick up point for your hire car.

DISCOVER MORE OF PORTUGAL

CURRENCY: EURO

MONEY: Although some bar, restaurants and shops do take card many of the smaller, local places do not so it is wise to carry cash on you. There are plenty of ATM’s around the city. Look for local bank ATM’s rather than currency exchange ATM;s and you’ll save money. Or even better get a prepaid travel card.

I always travel with Revolut. Revolut is a free prepaid card and app that you can hold and transfer multiple currencies on. You can use the contactless Revolut card abroad and at home with no exchange fees whatsoever. Simply top up using the app and transfer between currencies whenever you like. You can also transfer money to friends with Revolut in one tap; super handy when you need to split the bill. I have been using Revolut since we moved to Portugal three years ago and I have saved hundreds of £’s compared to using my UK bank account. There is no set-up fee or running costs (it is completely free) and you will also receive a free card when you sign up below. I’ve also written up a post on the Best Travel Money Card if you want to read more about Revolut.

T H A N K S F O R R E A D I N G

TRAVEL PORTUGAL

Money in Portugal

Money in Portugal

Money in Portugal

Soi55lifestyle

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