The Alentejo is Portugal’s most undiscovered region but there are countless reasons to visit this magical landscape. Thanks to the diverse landscape, hilltop villages and many vineyards there is no shortage of unique places to stay in Alentejo. There is no doubt about it, if you want to find real Portugal you’ll find it during your stay in Alentejo.
WHERE TO STAY IN ALENTEJO
Alentejo is split into 3 sections Alto (high), Baixo (low) and Centro (you got it). Each section has it’s own charm and authentic experiences can be found across the entire region from top to bottom. If you have the time to spend I recommend visiting the whole region and make the most of everything- check out our 10-day Alentejo road trip for ideas. Don’t worry though if you only have a few days to explore Alentejo you’ll still leave with amazing memories.
*Some links included in this guide are affiliate links. This means if you click through one of these links and make a purchase I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. If you find my content useful or inspiring please consider using these links.
FINDING ACCOMMODATION IN ALENTEJO
Despite being more untouched than most of the rest of Portugal Alentejo has plenty of accommodation options available all over the region. I use a number of methods to find accommodation but often find Bookingcom comes up with the widest range of options . It is also worth noting that you should always try to support local businesses where possible, so if there is an option to book directly through them choose that.
If you want to find an authentic stay in a traditional village Casa Porfiros is your spot. This cosy well designed studio has a window that opens straight on to the street and looks out towards the church. Redondo is a gorgeous village in central Alentejo just a half an hour drive from Évora. The village is a maze of white buildings with colourful façades and is home to a wine museum. Redondo is a DOC wine region and there are plenty of well-known vineyards close by.
STAY INSIDE THE CASTLE WALLS | MARUAN HEAVEN, MARVÃO
3 bedroom holiday home : Sleeps 6
The perfectly kept Medieval village of Marvão is an essential stop on any Alentejo itinerary. You actually get to drive through the castle walls of this hilltop village to reach your stay at Maruan Heaven. The house still has original features and is equipped with everything you could need for a short or long stay. The best bit about Maruan Heaven though is the sunrise balcony overlooking beautiful Alentejo.
Relax in nature at this traditional Quinta in the serene São Serra Mamede natural park. To reach Quinta da Dourada you’ll drive through some of Portugal’s best scenery and then take a narrow gravel track to your very own slice of tranquility. The Quinta is family-run and you can guarantee owner Nuno will take good care of you during you stay.
This little haven of calm sits just 4km from the bustle of Évora. Stay in the best location in central Alentejo whilst remaining totally chilled. Quinta da Espada features traditional furniture in the bedrooms and alfresco breakfast is served on original Bordello Portuguese ceramics. Every detail and piece decoration at Quinta da Espada pays homage to Alentejo.
Monsaraz is one of Alentejo’s more well-known villages and with good reason. This hilltop village is a beauty to behold and you won’t help but gawk at it’s pretty streets and medieval details. For the ultimate experience in Monsaraz travel back in time and book a stay at Casa Tia Anica.
I recently returned from an 10 day road trip around Alentejo, Portugal. I drove 1500km around Portugal’s largest region in search of hidden villages, stunning views and unforgettable experiences. I found all of the above in abundance all thanks to curating this epic itinerary. By spending so much time on the road I was able to explore deeply and find the very best experiences the region has to offer.
On this particular Alentejo trip I stuck to the interior so you won’t see any coastal areas such as Porto Covo and Vila Nova de Milfontes in this itinerary. You can find a guide on the whole Alentejo region here (coming soon).
*Some links included in this guide are affiliate links. This means if you click through one of these links and make a purchase I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. If you find my content useful or inspiring please consider using these links.
WHY VISIT ALENTEJO?
The main reason I was attracted to Alentejo is that it still feels relatively undiscovered in comparison to many other places in Portugal. There are still a huge amount of sleepy villages, rolling swathes of countryside and (for me at least) the region offers an honest insight into Portuguese culture and lifestyle. I have always loved living in Portugal but perhaps in a somewhat superficial way (hot weather, cheap beer etc) but it was only when I returned from Alentejo that I started to understand more about the country and I feel so proud to call Portugal my adoptive home.
I’m not sure why Alentejo slips under most people’s radar when they visit Portugal but If it is somewhere you haven’t really thought of before then hopefully I’m about to change your mind.
If you want to find out more in-depth information about the Alentejo region don’t forget to visit the Visit Alentejo website.
WHERE IS ALENTEJO?
The Alentejo is the largest region in Portugal which is located on the Iberian peninsula. It is bordered by the Algarve, Lisbon and Central regions and despite being the largest region in the country it attracts the lowest number of visitors in mainland Portugal.
HOW TO GET TO ALENTEJO?
The region is easily accessible from all of Portugal’s major airports (Lisbon, Porto and Faro). Which one you choose will depend on how long you have in the region and what itinerary you are planning to take.
Although most towns and villages are accessible by train or (more likely) bus the best way to ensure you get the most out of Alentejo is by hiring a car. Having a car ill give you more freedom and flexibility with your itinerary but cruising around in your own four wheels (in my humble opinion) is the best way to experience Alentejo.
BEST 10 DAY ITINERARY FOR ALENTEJO
I spent 10 days exploring Alentejo and I there is still plenty more I still want to see but I do believe this 10 day itinerary will show you the absolute best of the region. I spent weeks of research making sure my itinerary included the perfect mix of medieval hilltop towns, quiet villages and true experiences. I also made sure I had gaps in my original itinerary so I that I could talk with the locals en route and squeeze more memorable moments into the trip. There will always be more to discover but I feel the this 10 day itinerary will allow you to really get beneath the surface of the Alentejo.
This itinerary is the exact route I took around the Alentejo and includes both places i stayed and spots I visited for just a few hours. I have included links for accommodation options in each place – these are places I stayed during my trip and can personally recommend.
I drove from Algarve and returned to Algarve. If you are driving from Lisbon or Porto you can switch the itinerary up and/or create a different loop easily enough. If you only have a short amount of time I recommend basing yourself in central Alentejo and making day trips from Ėvora.
MÉRTOLA
This gem of a medieval village sits proudly on the Guadiana river just a whisper into the region. It is small enough to wander around in a day but if you have the time stay for a few nights and enjoy the picturesque streets without rushing. If you have extra time take a drive to one of the river beaches nearby.
EXPERIENCE | Dinner, wine and sunset at Espaco Casa Amarela on the other side of the river.
VILA VIÇOSA
I spent a few hours walking the beautiful streets of Vila Viçosa and loved the spotting the pretty tiles, choosing an alfresco cafe and browsing typical artisan products from the region. This would be a great stay over too! Check out Bookingcom for Vila Viçosa accommodation options.
SERRA DE SÃO MAMEDE NATURAL PARK
I didn’t even know this natural park existed until I stayed at a beautiful Quinta (Quinta da Dourada) just outside Portalegre. The natural park is a dream to drive around; quiet, winding (but not too winding) roads with seriously gorgeous views. You can also visit one of Alentejo’s highest points in São Mamede, this summit gets snow in the winter which is unimaginable when you visit in July! I highly recommend the drive from Quinta da Dourada to Castelo de Vide.
EAT/DRINK | At the Quinta. Contact the owner Nuno in advance and you’ll be able to enjoy delicious Portuguese home cooking during your stay.
EXPERIENCE | Driving through the Mamede Natural Park.
CASTELO DE VIDE
I only spent a matter of hours here but I can confidently tell you it as one of my favourite places I visited in Alentejo. Castelo de Vide feels lived in yet looks beautiful from top to bottom. People shout from windows and Fado music drifts in and out of houses. It is also the most ‘flowery’ place I saw on my trip. Every house was a piece of wild art!
I didn’t stay the night here but I absolutely will next time. Find Castelo de Vide accommodation using the Bookingcom search function!EMBEDDED SCRIPTSThis block contains embedded scripts. Embedded scripts are disabled while you’re logged in and editing your site.PREVIEW IN SAFE MODEBooking.com
MARVÃO
Another big favourite for me was experiencing Marvão. This hilltop village is picture perfect, so much so that it kind of feels like you are in a medieval theme park. It may look like it is geared up solely for tourists but there is still authenticity to be found when you peek around the corners. Don’t leave until you have walked the circumference of the castle walls
The cutest village in central Alentejo you ever did see. White houses beam in the afternoon sunshine, olive groves stretch out from it’s borders and locals remain curious but friendly towards newcomers. Rendondo is also a DOC wine region and pottery centre. The town has a good selection of restaurants and bars and is well worth a stop overnight.
EAT/DRINK | Choose a lively one in the main square.
EXPERIENCE | Drinking with the locals at an authentic snack bar. There is also a wine museum and plenty of vineyards close by!
ÉVORA
The capital of Alentejo and its most well-known asset. Évora is probably the busiest you’re going to get when it comes to Alentejo but with good reason. The city is steeped in history, full of authentic Alentejan cuisine and surrounded by some of the region’s best vineyards. I have to admit I didn’t get a chance to make the most of Évora but I will certainly be back to spend a few days enjoying the city buzz.
EXPERIENCE | Capela dos Ossos (Chaple of bones). Enjoying tapas and cocktails with a view!
MONTE DA RAVESQUEIRA
I’m mentioning this as a must-stop experience on your Alentejo itinerary because Monte da Ravasqueira is one of the most alluring vineyards I have visited in Portugal to date. The experience also introduced me to my new go-to bottle of vinho branco. I have several chilling in my fridge as I write this. Book a tour, tasting or experience and you will be welcomed warmly, invited to sip on some award-winning wines and enjoy time soaking up sun-drenched vineyard views and the real beauty of Alentejo. Of course, Alentejo is not short on wine experiences and I fully encourage you to squeeze in a few if you can; but, if you only have time for one vineyard during your trip make it this one! Located only 5km from Arraiolos and 25km from Évora.
You can read more about my wine travels in Portugal here (coming soon).
ESTREMOZ
Estremoz sits nicely between Évora and Elvas and has an attractive buzz about it. It is obvious that this isn’t a tourist town but there are lots of cute streets and a pretty epic castle view to top it off. Estremoz also has plenty of vineyards within a short distance.
EXPERIENCE | Take a stroll up to the old castle wall and take in the vineyard views.
MONSARAZ
Most people who already know about Alentejo will direct you to Monsaraz as a place to add to your itinerary and with good reason too. Monsaraz is pocket-sized and picturesque (almost to a fault) and a magical introduction to Alentejo. Tiny streets boast restaurants with panoramic views and little nooks host artisan shops filled with ceramics and honey.
EAT/DRINK | I ate in my apartment during my stay but I had several recommendations for Taverna Os Templários and Restaurante Bar Sem-Fim.
EXPERIENCE | Wandering the cobbled streets early morning.
VIDIGUEIRA
This town usually doesn’t make it on a typical Alentejo itinerary which is exactly why i wanted to visit. Vidigueira is actually a really important town for the history of wine in Portugal and its also delightful to explore by foot.
EXPERIENCE | Adega Cooperativa Vidigueira for a wine tour and unique Talha wine tasting.
So here ends my Alentejo itinerary! I hope this helps you capture at least a small picture of how wonderful this region is to explore. Stay tuned for a complete ‘’Alentejo travel guide’ and ‘unique places to stay guide’.
Don’t forget to check out my other Portugal experience based travel guides.
Tavira is a gorgeous Algarvian town located in the warmest and sunniest corner of Portugal. Tavira has it all – a charming old town, a medieval castle, authentic restaurants, river-side bars, an 11km island with white sand beach and a wild natural park.
WHERE IS TAVIRA
Tavira is located in east Algarve on Portugal’s south coast. Just a 30 minute drive from Faro and close to the Spanish border (just two hours from Seville).
WHERE TO STAY IN TAVIRA
There is no shortage of accommodation options in and out of Tavira but during my search I did find it difficult to find good quality rooms. When I finally found Formosa Guest House I was able to celebrate. The photos looks great online but it is even more wonderful in real life. The guest house is right on the Praça da República in the old town and offers bright, well- styled rooms with balconies and a spectacular view over the river. My stay here turned out to be one of my favourites in Portugal to date.
Whether you are staying for a few days or a few weeks you will find plenty to do to keep you mesmerised with this Algarvian town. Here are a few things you should add to your itinerary while you are in Tavira :
Basking in sunshine on Ilha de Tavira
Getting lost in charming old town
The Ponte Romana bridge at sunset
Find backstreet tapas
BEST CAFES TAVIRA
There are lots of cafes to satisfy your coffee/breakfast/brunch needs in Tavira and lots ate open early which can be hard to find in Portugal. Some of my personal favourites :
Flavour Cafe – Everything from eggs and granola to pancakes and waffles. Friendly service too!
There are so many bars in Tavira. Everything from little backstreet dens to busy main square hangouts. I had no problem finding beers, good wine and cocktails during my time in Tavira. Some spots I recommend to check out :
Arcada – Right on the Praça da República. Perfect for a sundowner.
Tasca do Zé André – The cheapest and best Aperol spritz in town plus great tapas)
Rosa e Gianni – Small, cosy Italian with fresh pasta
As always my favourite thing to do while visiting a new place is wandering the backstreets with no plan and seeing what I can find. I recommend doing just that in Tavira; set off on a self-guided tour and breathe in the sights and sounds of the town. While you here there are a few experiences you shouldn’t miss. I find these types of experiences leave you with the best memories of a place.
ESCAPING THE CROWDS ON ILHA DE TAVIRA
Pulling into Ilha de Tavira can be a little overwhelming in summer due to the crowds flocking off the beach. Luckily the Tavira island is 11km long so there is plenty of space for everyone. Take off behind the sand dunes and walk 10 minutes along the back of the beach to find your own private stretch of sand for the day.
FIND A BACKSTREET TAPAS BAR
Tavira has some great hidden tapas bars to be found. Take yourself on a wander around the cobbled streets in search of cheap and tasty tapas.
PRAÇA DA REPÚBLICA AT SUNSET
Tavira’s main square is a pleasure at all times of day but grab a seat for an hour or so before sunset, order a drink of something delicious and soak up the buzz.
Tavira is one of my favourite towns in the Algarve and I’m looking forward to spending some more time getting to know it. Hopefully this mini travel guide to Tavira can help you plan your next trip.
Part of the joy of living in Portugal is discovering the diversity between each region. Last week we left Algarve behind for a few days and ventured to a region rich with culture and character – The Alentejo. With the majority of the region heavily relying on agriculture, livestock and forestry it is here you will find many authentic towns showcasing real Portugal . Having previously visited Vila Nova de Milfontes we wanted to experience a smaller, more traditional town on the coast and Porto Covo ticked all our boxes.
Porto Covo, although a popular tourist destination during the summer months, is still very much a fishing village with traditional architecture and a local feel. Located almost halfway between Lisbon and Faro it is around a two hour drive from either airport.
CENTRO
Praça Marques de Pombal (town centre) is a picturesque square of neatly painted cafes and restaurants with blue facades and a traditional church. You will find the majority of restaurants, bars and shops here along with Rua Vasco da Gama. The main square is an ideal spot so spend a few hours chatting with friends, drinking cold beers and soaking up the sun in one of the pretty corner cafes.
THE COAST
One of the most inviting aspects of Porto Covo (translated as Port of the fishing nets) is its string of coves and beaches that stretch almost as far as SInes. Even if you only have a short time in the area go for a stroll along at least some of the stunning coastal path. There are many secluded spots to be found along the coast here but if you do go searching for the nooks and crannies make sure you know if the tide is on its way in or out so you don’t get caught out. We walked from the 3.5km from the harbour to Praia do Burrinho and back again which gave us plenty of time to pick our favourite beaches (Praia do Serra Aguia and Praia da Samoqueira). If walking is not your thing and you are coming by car or camper there are dedicated parking spots above most of the larger beaches.
SEAFOOD AND EAT IT
If seafood is your thing you’re going to love it here. We only had two days and nights to sample restaurants so we followed our usual rule (eat where the locals eat) and were handsomely rewarded with traditional, tasty food on all occasions.
For a fresh seafood lunch stop off at O Pescador on R. Vasca da Gama. Choose your fresh fish from the counter and it will be served to you perfectly cooked with a delicious bbq taste. Or eat like a local and indulge in a typical dish such as Polvo (Octopus). Wash it down with a cheap (€3.50 a litre) yet tasty jug of white wine and pat yourself on the back for choosing so wisely.
For a cosy and traditional affair head to Restaurante O Torreão located on the main square and sit inside. If we could give you only one suggestion it would be the mussels – they are huge! The dessert list here is as long as your arm and a slab of cheesecake will set you back only €2.70 so get stuck in!
There are lots of places to choose from when it comes to food but if you have a few nights in Porto Covo I would definitely recommend choosing a local spot for at least one of them. A few other restaurants we have added to our bucket list for next time should you want to try something different…. Zé Inácio, Restaurant Miramar and Marquês.
CAFE CULTURE
Portuguese coffee will never be my favourite, It is far too bitter for me personally. However of there is one thing the Portuguese are extremely good at its sweet treats. I mean the greatest tart in the world has to be a pastel de nata right? Whether its clever pastry technique, local ingredients (almonds, oranges, figs – yum!) or a whole load of sugar there is nothing that livens up my coffee moments in Portugal than one of the countries sweet treats. So you can imagine my excitement when I discovered the Pastel Marquês at the cafe Gelataria Marquês. – a perfect combination of almond, orange, egg, sugar and pumpkin. This pastel is a speciality of Porto Covo and a must while you are in town.
FORGET-ME-NOT
Porto Covo, like most towns with a tourist influx during the summer, has the usual array of souvenir shops where you can buy pretty ceramics, sardine ornaments and retro postcards. This particular shop (opposite restaurant O Pescador) caught my eye so I wandered in and found a cave of eclectic array of home wears from ceramics jugs to bamboo mirrors to metal roosters. If you’re the type of person who likes to take a reminder of their travels home with them (like me) then check out a few of the shops on the R Vasco da Gama. There is also a few gorgeous clothing boutiques full to the brim with beautiful holiday pieces. My favourite was Hipiie Chic who stocks the most stunning summer dresses.
WHERE TO STAY
We decided to camp for our recent trip to Porto Covo and stayed in the central campsite Camping Porto Covo. The campsite offered plenty of space, a pool (summer), bar and bbq area and is just a 5 minute stroll from the centre.
Since moving to Algarve almost 3 years ago we have been exploring Portugal. Looking for some more inspirational destinations in Portugal. Have a peek at our travel guides and start planning your Portugal itinerary.
Lisbon is one of my favourite cities in Europe. It helps that it is a short train from our home in the the Algarve and hosts some of the best foodie/drink experiences in Portugal. We try and visit the capital every few months to get our fill of the good stuff!
Our travel guides are based on real experiences. With the exception of Pastéis de Belém we have visited all of the bars and restaurants listed in our Lisbon eats + drinks guide. We only feature places we absolutely fall in love with and would/have returned to since our first discovery.
We’re big on finding the tiny, unassuming bars and restaurants as well as testing out some of those super popular spots. This means you’ll find a good variety of locations, styles and prices to ponder over. Now… go make yourself hungry and book some flights!
*Some links included in this guide are affiliate links. This means if you book through this link I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only include links for products and services I love and use regularly. Using these links helps me to build my small business and maintain this travel blog.
A new addition to Lisbon, Comoba offers excellent speciality coffee, a tasty and filling breakfast and lunch menu (think breakfast burritos and matcha pancake stacks) and a light and airy space to enjoy it all.
The tiny but charming Taberna Da Rua Das Flores offers a range of lunch specialities but it is the evening service that will have you salivating. The menu changes daily but you can expect creative and delicious menu Portuguese fusion. A waiter/waitress will talk you through a long but interesting menu and recommend you choose 3 dishes between 2 people (obviously we choose 4 and had no regrets!). I can hands down say that this was one of my favourite meals I have ever had.
DON’T MISS OUT: Taberna does not take bookings in advance. You need to turn up on the day at 6pm to book a table for that evening. Needless to say it is very, very popular so if this is top of your list while in Lisbon make sure you get there early to secure yourself an evening of foodie heaven.
Cute wine and Pisco bar. For those of you unfamiliar with Pisco (as I was before visiting this bar) it is an un-aged brandy. All you really need to know is it is made from distilled Peruvian grapes and is very drinkable, especially on a hot afternoon after a day exploring the city. Wine & Pisco is situated in a beautiful square and is the perfect place for a late afternoon drink before dinner.
Does what it says on the tin, literally. Loja Das Conservas translates as ‘tinned food shop’ and thats what this casual tapas bar serves up, but not as you know it. Hidden away down an unassuming alley this unique restaurant find serves up a mouthwatering range of tapas dishes all created from tinned fish. I was blown away by some of the flavour combinations here so if tinned fish isn’t your usual go-to let this place change your mind. Our tuna samosas paired perfectly with an ice cold beer and my other half enjoyed a flavoursome garfish.
Once you’ve got a taste for all the tinned food possibilities visit their shop next door and stock up on Portuguese sardines, tuna and more to take home and try out yourself.
Tea bar meets cocktail bar meets vintage shop and we’re totally ok with that. A Outra Face Da Lua has a relaxed but fun vibe with a great outdoor seating area where you can soak up the Lisbon scenery and provides a cracking jug of sangria to boot.
Epic food hall on the waterfront. A big and bustling space with tonnes of options from traditional Portuguese to Juicy burgers, Thai and Japanese. Ideal for loading up before your journey home or as an evening spot with a group who can’t agree on what to eat! There is a Manteigaria here to so you can stock up on those natas too.
Yet another atmospheric tapas bar with amazing dishes that meets all the requirements for a memorable evening. Estrella da Bica is a cosy tapas restaurant located mid way down the iconic Elevador da Bica. Its wide variety of dishes and local buzz will have you returning to night after night. Again, this is a popular spot so arrive early to book a table for the evening. There is plenty of lively bars around to help you muster up a hunger beforehand.
Fuel up on (excellent) coffee at Fabrica and stock up on some freshly roasted beans to take home. This trendy brand roasts their own beans and supply many of the speciality coffee shops in Portugal. If you’re coming into or out of Lisbon via Oriente station you can also grab a coffee to go from their funky silver van. Beats a train station “coffee” thats for sure!
When you’re in the city but wish you were on the beach or you just need some fresh air head to Naus 5 for a relax and a glass of something cold. Stress relieving deck chairs, a fully stocked bar and beautiful views across the Tagus…what more could you need?
Perched up high at the Santa Caterina view point is Noobai. This multi-level restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks and effortlessly slides from day to night. So whether you’re here for a hangover breakfast, a fancy dinner and cocktails or just a few sunset beers the atmosphere will be perfect. The view over the Tagus isn’t too shabby either!
We found this (almost invisible) bar in the middle of Bairro Alto whilst on the search for a beer. Chico is a tiny cave-like bar come restaurant with live Fado most nights. For what it lacks in space and light it makes up for in atmosphere and experience. If you want to secure table for a sit down meal during the show you’ll need to book a day in advance but you don’t need to eat (or have a table) to enjoy the live Fado here. Turn up between 830pm-9pm and grab a beer to enjoy in the street outside the bar. At 9pm they’ll usher as many people from outside into the bar as will fit and shut the door for a 10 minute Fado show. If you don’t make it in for this one don’t worry they’ll be another one shortly after. It is completely free to watch the Fado and you’ll experience it as the locals do – packed in like sardines! This bar is a real gem amongst many expensive and touristy Fado shows and we highly recommend it!
12. T Á B E R N A | BAR / COCKTAILS n75, Tv. dos Fiéis de Deus
Friendly staff, great beer snacks, excellent cocktails and music in the heart of Bairro Alto! This our usual spot for an after dinner drink and it never disappoints.
The only place on our eats + drinks guide that we have not visited (yet!). I had to feature it on our list because apparently this is home to the best Pastel de nata in Lisbon which surely means it is the best in the world?! We attempted to visit during our last trip but mid July is crazy busy and the queues were unbearable. Next time, next time. Located out of the city centre in beautiful Belém – well worth a stop on your itinerary. If you want a world class nata in the city centre read on….
If you can’t make it to Bélem don’t fear there is incredible pasteis de natas hidden all around the city in various bakeries and cafes. The main thing to remember is that these Portuguese tarts need to be eaten fresh so look for places that make them daily on site. One I highly recommend is Manteigaria where you can watch the sweet treats being made in front of your eyes and they do a delicious espresso too. It doesn’t get much fresher people!
As if you needed another tapas bar in Lisbon? But seriously, there is always room for more tapas. Boasting more than 60 authentic dishes, a huge range of drinks and alfresco streetside dining this is worth an afternoon of your time in Lisbon. The tapas is more expensive here than other spots but it has a great selection suitable for all types of foodies and the beer is cheap!
U N K N O W N | SOMEWHERE IN LISBON
Enjoy our guide and check out some of our recommendations but don’t forget to forge your own foodie trail too. There are hundreds of bars, cafes and restaurants waiting to be discovered in Lisbon and we just haven’t found them yet! To get you started we dare you to try and find a Chouriço Assado (flaming Chorizo) in Bairro Alto.
Have fun!
CURRENCY: EURO
MONEY: Although some bar, restaurants and shops do take card many of the smaller, local places do not so it is wise to carry cash on you. There are plenty of ATM’s around the city. Look for local bank ATM’s rather than currency exchange ATM;s and you’ll save money. Or even better get a prepaid travel card.
I always travel with Revolut. Revolut is a free prepaid card and app that you can hold and transfer multiple currencies on. You can use the contactless Revolut card abroad and at home with no exchange fees whatsoever. Simply top up using the app and transfer between currencies whenever you like. You can also transfer money to friends with Revolut in one tap; super handy when you need to split the bill. I have been using Revolut since we moved to Portugal three years ago and I have saved hundreds of £’s compared to using my UK bank account. There is no set-up fee or running costs (it is completely free) and you will also receive a free card when you sign up below. I’ve also written up a post on the Best Travel Money Card if you want to read more about Revolut.
TIME ZONE:GMT+0 (same as UK)
LANGUAGE: European Portuguese Lisbon is a popular destination for British holidaymakers (and many other nationalities) so the majority of restaurants, cafes and bars speak good English. However, most Portuguese will appreciate you making a small effort when it comes to learning their language so even if it is a simple bom dia (good morning!) you should try you best while you are visiting beautiful Portugal.
Here is some very basic phrases and words to start with…
HelloOlá
Good Morning Bom dia!
Good Afternoon Boa tarde!
Good Night Boa noite!
Thank you Obrigado/a (male/female)
Do you speak English? Fala inglês?
I speak a little Portuguese Eu falo/a um pouco de Português
Bread Pão Olives Azeitonas Butter Manteiga Chicken with piri piri Frango piri piri Fish Peixe Meat Carne Dessert Sobremesa
Water sparkling/stillAgua com gas/sem gas Beer Cerveja Red wine Vinho tinto White wine Vinho branco Green wine Vinho verde
Do you have?Você tem? Yes Sim No Não
If you haven’t booked your accommodation yet go and explore some of the options. There are so many cool apartments in Lisbon and if you book early you’ll get the best choice. My personal favourite? Look for first or second floor apartments with a balcony in Bairro Alto and you’ll be rewarded with memorable views!
Situated in Portugal’s Alentejo region just 2 hours south of Lisbon, north of Faro and west from the Spanish border Vila Nova de Milfontes attracts hoards of local and foreign holiday-makers alike. In the summer months and busy holiday periods the medium-sized seaside town can reach bursting point but outside of these few crazy months you’ll find a balanced mix of refreshing nature and holiday vibes.
As part of the Costa Vincentina de Alentejano national park its bounty of beaches have remained untouched. VNDM’s sandy beaches and coves are improved only by the fact that it is this stretch of coast that the stunning Mira river chooses to meet the sea. Top it all off with a collection of breezy beach restaurants and alfresco cocktail bars and you are on to a winner! We spent 3 nights wild camping over Easter weekend and experienced a little bit of everything.
THE BEACHES
For a relatively small place there is no shortage of beaches to delve into. We spent the majority of our time at the picturesque Praia da Franquia which is the closest to town and sits on the river itself but there are lots more to explore. Praia do Farol wraps itself around the prominent headland and offers river and ocean views. At high tide you can find shallower section in-front of Choupana restaurant. Beware of the tide and current as it can be deceptively fast here and can easily catch you off-guard. Stay shallow at all times. Across the river is the white sandy paradise Praia das Furnas; you are more likely to find this stretch quieter as it involves a drive (or kayak) but the open beach can be more breezy than its neighbouring opposite. The views back to VNDM are worth the effort to get here from town!
SOI 55 HIDDEN CORNER
If you are heading to the town beaches over easter or summer expect them to be very busy but if you are making the trip out of season you can easily to baga little cove all to yourself…now that’s what we’re talking about!
For me the 145km Mira river is the main draw to VNDM and its ever-changing tides and colours mean you can easily spend a day or two in or around its energy. Whether it be dipping your toes in on the edge of it’s bank or navigating a kayak through it to the bridge you’ll want to spend some time around the Mira.
WHERE TO EAT
There is plenty of restaurants and cafes around VNDM town but nothing came even a little bit close to this magical place right on Farol beach. Choupana restaurant is nestled neatly among the wild flowers , perched on wooden stilts complete with 180degree ocean views. On the menu you can expect uber fresh fish (caught the same day), excellent piri-piri chicken and 1litre jugs of the good stuff (wine obviously!). To be honest, even if the restaurant only served chips we would still have fallen in love. The fresh sea-breeze and uninterrupted, wild views secured it as our favourite dining experience in VNDM. Choupana certainly isn’t a secret but because it is hidden out of sight on what feels like it’s own private beach you will feel like you have stumbled upon a seriously special place. You won’t find this spot in the Lonely Planet!
TIP : Book your ‘table with a view’ in the morning or day before so you can take your pick of spots before anyone else.
If you have a few days in town then I highly recommend the Portal da Vila. This tiny restaurant will cram you in like Portuguese sardines and the tables are a little wonky but the food and wine was great and the atmosphere wonderful!
WHERE TO DRINK
Again there is no shortage of bars in VNDM but they are spread out all over the place so give yourself a bit of time to find what you are looking for before settling down. There is plenty of snack bars selling bargain booze on the main (rather ugly) strip but there is also plenty of quirkier areas to explore too. I was lured in by the colourful director chairs at Cá P’ramim (opposite Portal da Vila) and returned every night for a drink and olives. Expect to pay a little more than some of the standard bars here but if the cocktail of the day is anything like my strawberry mojito order three!
GET ACTIVE
If you’ve had enough of eating and drinking your way round town hire a kayak and set sail to the bridge and beyond. There is plenty of hire shops near the town beach and we found half a day was long enough to have a good explore. We headed up river and under the bridge where everything turns more wild yet peaceful and found some sandy banks to moor up and take it all in. Mornings tend to be better suited as the wind is usually much lighter and as the currents can be quite strong it is best to avoid heading out to sea! Ask the hire shop about tides and the best time to set off.
SOI 55 HIDDEN CORNER
If you love the idea of kayaking but don’t want to go on a full fitness mission you can cut it short and just paddle straight across the river toPraia das Furnas for a afternoon drink or seafood lunch at this hidden bar behind the dunes. There is nothing quite like the reward of a cold, crisp beer after a mini adventure!
DON’T FORGET TO GET LOST
There are so many nooks and corners filled with charm in Vila Nova de Milfontes you just have to find them. Take the road closest to the beach and follow the winding streets past colourful houses until you find your very own hidden discovery! Then order something local and delicious sounding from the menu.
WHEN TO GO
For a bit more space and a calmer vibes try to shoulder season months May, June, September. If you want to experience VNDM with all it’s amenities open book up for Easter or summer and enjoy the buzz. If you want to experience its beauty without the crowds try early spring/late autumn but remember VNDM is a seasonal town so bars and restaurants may be limited.
WHERE TO STAY
We chose to wild camp on the beach whilst in VNDM which involved setting up late and packing up early so we didn’t bother anyone. For more amenities and less hassle there are two camping options in town – Campiférias and Camping Milfontes.
If camping isn’t your jam there is plenty of hotels, guest houses and apartments to choose from…
Town is small enough to walk around and for me, leaving the car and exploring by foot for 3 days was part of the pleasure. Many of the bars and restaurants are spread out so have a good stomp around on your first day to see whats around. If you are coming in holiday season expecting parking to be scarce so it is best to arrive early in the morning to curb the stress. Out of season parking will be easy (and free) and you can probably nab a spot right on the beach.
GETTING THERE AND AWAY
Vila Nova de Milfontes is around a 2 hour drive from Lisbon and Faro airport. There is also a Europcar in town so you can use this as a drop off of pick up point for your hire car.
DISCOVER MORE OF PORTUGAL
CURRENCY: EURO
MONEY: Although some bar, restaurants and shops do take card many of the smaller, local places do not so it is wise to carry cash on you. There are plenty of ATM’s around the city. Look for local bank ATM’s rather than currency exchange ATM;s and you’ll save money. Or even better get a prepaid travel card.
I always travel with Revolut. Revolut is a free prepaid card and app that you can hold and transfer multiple currencies on. You can use the contactless Revolut card abroad and at home with no exchange fees whatsoever. Simply top up using the app and transfer between currencies whenever you like. You can also transfer money to friends with Revolut in one tap; super handy when you need to split the bill. I have been using Revolut since we moved to Portugal three years ago and I have saved hundreds of £’s compared to using my UK bank account. There is no set-up fee or running costs (it is completely free) and you will also receive a free card when you sign up below. I’ve also written up a post on the Best Travel Money Card if you want to read more about Revolut.
With over 20 million passengers passing through the city’s airport annually tourism in the Portuguese capital is booming. Regardless of its up-and-coming status there is something about the getting lost in the cobbled streets here that makes you feel like you are discovering Lisbon for the very first time. Being based just 3 hours from Lisbon means I have had managed to squeeze in several short trips to the city over the last few years . I always use my time in Lisbon to hunt out the best experiences for a memorable and meaningful trip.
I set out to create a travel guide that is focused on local experiences rather than Lisbon’s ‘top attractions’ so haven’t included sites such as Castelo de São George, Torre de Bélem and Mosteiro dos Jerónimos . A quick google will give you all the info you need on these. Instead I’ve created an easy going itinerary that reveals some hidden gems, immerses you in real Portuguese life and encourages you to find some treasures of your own.
*Some links included in this guide are affiliate links. This means if you book through this link I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only include links for products and services I love and use regularly. Using these links helps me to build my small business and maintain this travel blog.
GETTING THERE
Lisbon’s international airport has two terminals. Terminal 1 (the bigger of the two) caters for all incoming flights and links directly to the metro system. Terminal 2 deals with some departures (mainly budget airlines) and can only be accessed by a free shuttle from terminal 1. Shuttles are every 10minutes and take about 5 minutes. Always check your ticket before departure to ensure you have the right terminal.
Lisbon’s public transport is excellent. Hop off your flight straight onto a metro and you’ll be in the city centre in less than half an hour. If the idea of lugging your bags around the metro system sends sweaty shivers down your spine or you’re traveling in a group book an Uber on arrival.
WHERE TO STAY
If you only have a short time in Lisbon I recommend staying in one of the central neighbourhoods with easy metro access. This means getting around is quick and stress free. When booking your accommodation look for places to stay in Bairro Alto or Baixa-Chiado and you’ll have the heart of Lisbon on your doorstep. If you want to stay a little further away from the bustle but remain central try Alfalma. There really is an abundance of good accommodation options in Lisbon. I’ve included a few I have personally stayed in below.
Palácio Camões Serviced Apartments – modern apartments with views over Lisbon’s red roofs and the river Tagus. Walking distance to some of Lisbon’s best restaurants and nightlife.
Lost Lisbon Chiado House – clean and comfortable private rooms with quirky themes. Close to both nightlife and shopping.
Santa Justa Prime Guesthouse – located close to Rossio metro in the shopping district. Rooms have original tile details and views towards the Santa Justa lift.
Once you’ve checked in head out and about to get your bearings. If you are ready to jump straight into some Portuguese cuisine see if you can book a table at Estrela da Bica or make your way to this bustling street. Alternatively try Boa Bao for asian flavours
If you’re lucky, post dinner you’ll find yourself at tiny Tasca do Chico listening to live fado music for free. This unassuming little bar gets packed to the rafters but don’t rush off if you can’t get in straight away. Grab a beer from the bar until you can squeeze in for a show. It’s worth it! Feeling suitably cultural? Ask for a shot of the local spirit/ fire water Medronho before you call it a night.
WHAT IS FADO?
Fado is a melancholic genre of music that originated in Lisbon during the 1820’s. The Alfama district is the true home of Fado in Lisbon so head there for the full experience. Look out for smaller restaurants popular with locals to get the real deal. Listen to rainha do Fado (queen of Fado) Amália Rodrigues who remains the best-selling Portuguese artist in history.
EARLY BIRD EXPLORING
My number one travel tip is to wake up early. You’ll experience the destination without the overwhelm and start your day off with the best intention. Pre 10am is always a good time of day to enjoy the usually crowded spots to yourself. Praça do Comércio looks particularly beautiful early morning as does the river Tagus.
PASTEL DE NATA TIME
Anytime is pastel de nata time but I do love one with my morning coffee. Portugal’s pastéis de nata are famously addictive and Lisbon is home to the best ones in the country. We always buy our pastéis from Mantegaria but any pastelaria that makes them fresh daily will do a good job. The most famous Pastéis de nata in Lisbon are in Bélem but be prepared to queue.
BRUNCH + COFFEE
Lisbon is home to some seriously good coffee and brunch spots. Fill up on matcha pancakes, breakfast burritos or poached egg on corn frittas at Comoba. Alternatively find your closest Copenhagen Coffee Lab and devour a cardamon bun. If you are in the mood for something more simple keep an eye out for a traditional Portuguese snack bar serving up croissants, toasties and strong espressos.
GET LOST IN ALFAMA
Use the afternoon to explore the city. Whether you take the famous tram 28 or set off on foot make sure you spend some time getting to know the real Lisbon. If you get a chance go get lost in Lisbon’s oldest neighbourhood Alfama. Alfama’s narrow streets have been home to fisherman throughout history and local life still thrives there today. Despite its popularity the neighbourhood remains unspoilt and you really can catch a glimpse of real Portugal Amongst local life you can expect to see decorative tiles, ice cream coloured houses, quaint restaurants and pottery shops.
When it all gets a bit too hot or head to one of the cities look out points for a late afternoon drink. Enjoy a cocktail atl Noobai (Miradouro de Santa Catarina) or see if you can find a table at the impressive Terraço (Miradouro Santa Luiza) and soak up the views.
EAT + DRINK IN BAIRRO
If you’re a foodie book a reservation ahead for a table at Taberna Rua Das Flores. This cosy restaurant delivers mouthwatering Portuguese fusion dishes from a seasonal menu. For more restaurant ideas see our Lisbon Eats Guide.
There is plenty of restaurants to be found serving tasty regional dishes. Try a glass of Alentejo red paired with some creamy sheep’s cheese and olives at Artis Bar. Or enjoy Pica-pau out of terracotta dishes in one of Bairro Alto’s many tabernas. Make your cocktail wishes come true by ending your night at Ta’berna.
BÉLEM BY BIKE
Time to explore the outskirts of Lisbon. And what better way to do it than on a personal electric bike or scooter. Lisbon has hundreds of these dotted around and you usually only have to stroll a couple of minutes to find one. Choose your transport of choice and download the Gira electric bike app or Lime Scooter app to get started. This is such a fun way to get around and the experience makes for great memories. These are best used along the water where there is smooth tarmac and plenty of space. Cycle or scoot under the golden gate-esque bride along the river to Bélem. On your journey you’ll enjoy waterfront cafes, street performers and the wind in your hair.
OVER THE CITY? HEAD TO THE BEACH INSTEAD
Had enough of city life? Then it’s time to head to the beach for the morning. Yep Lisbon has some stunning stretches of sand just 40minutes away by train. Make your way to Cais do Sodre train station and grab a €5 return ticket to Cascais. To do this you’ll need to buy and load a Viva Viagem card (€0.50) at the ticket machine. Trains to Cascais are approximately every 30 minutes.
The train station level ticket machines gets extremely busy. Use one of the escalators to the metro station below and buy your ticket there instead.
The former fishing village of Cascais is now a cosmopolitan beach destination and one of the richest municipalities in Portugal. The area really pulls in the crowds as summer approaches so brace yourself if you are planning a trip in the mid summer months. Don’t let it put you off though Cascais has some stunning beaches and if you can’t find a piece of sand under the picturesque cliffs at Praia de Rainha head west coast beach Praia do Guincho for a blast of fresh air.
Have a chill, take a dip and soak up some rays before indulging in the “World’s best ice-cream” at Santini’s. Admire the palm fringed ocean walkway towards the harbour walls and take a stroll around the Fortaleza da Nossa Senhora da Luz. Finish off with a stroll back to the train via the most perfect bougainvillea framed houses you have ever seen. You’ll find yourself working out how you can own one for yourself.
Either stay in Cascais for a seafood lunch or head back to Lisbon and check out this backstreet gem. Loja das conservas encourages you to challenge your perception of tinned fish by cooking up a menu of delicious small plates using one of Portugal’s great assets. This makes a perfect afternoon beer spot to escape the crowds.
TILE SPOTTING AND SOUVENIR SHOPPING
You’ve done some solid exploring by now and hopefully you’ve relaxed into Lisbon. Spend the afternoon revisiting your favourite spot or find a new area to explore. Embark on a journey through Lisbon’s hidden streets in search of colourful tiles and ceramic shops or sniff out a new wine bar with a view.
SLOW TRAVEL
With travel becoming more accessible than ever before more of us are jumping on cheap flights and sharing our experiences with the world. Unfortunately the growth of social media has put pressure on us to travel a certain way. I’ll be writing a post on this soon but in the meantime I just want to point out the importance of planning your trip for you and not for social media. Remember that quote comparison is the thief of joy? The same applies for travel.
If religious architecture is your thing then go tick off those beautiful church boxes, if you are a foodie at heart hunt down those secret local restaurants, if you love photography go and find the perfect vistas to capture the moment. Give yourself time to get to know the destination you’re traveling to, do and see what interests you not whats popular at this moment. Enjoy being in the moment (even if it isn’t picture perfect) and you’ll leave with the best memories.
Of course if there is a super popular tourist attraction you don’t want to miss then you should absolutely include that in your itinerary too but don’t feel like you should see something because everyone else has seen it or because ‘Culture Trip’ says you should. Aim to arrive at top tiered attractions early and you will almost always be able to enjoy them with less people around. Use our guides to help plan your itinerary and then give yourself freedom to go with the flow when you arrive.
MONEY: Although some bar, restaurants and shops do take card many of the smaller places do not so carrying a combination of cards and cash is best.
I always travel with Transferwise. Transferwise is a prepaid card and app that you can hold and transfer multiple currencies on. Simply top up using the app and transfer between currencies whenever you like. I have been using Transferwise since we moving to Portugal in 2016 and I have saved hundreds of pounds compared to using my UK bank account.
LANGUAGE: European Portuguese Lagos is a popular destination for British holidaymakers (and many other nationalities) so many bars and restaurants have staff that can speak good English. Having said that there are also many smaller, local bars that do not. If you do take a day trip to one of the less touristy towns and villages in the Algarve don’t expect them to speak to you in English. Most Portuguese (as any nationality) will appreciate you making a small effort when it comes to learning their language so even if it is a simple bom dia (good morning!) you should try you best while you are visiting beautiful Portugal.
Here is some very basic phrases and words to start with…
HelloOlá
Good Morning Bom dia!
Good Afternoon Boa tarde!
Good Night Boa noite!
Thank you Obrigado/a (male/female)
Do you speak English? Fala inglês?
I speak a little Portuguese Eu falo/a um pouco de Português
If you enjoyed our Lisbon 48 hour guide or you are looking for some more restaurant ideas while in the Portuguese capital you’ll love our Lisbon Eats Guide.
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Since moving to Algarve almost 3 years ago we have been exploring Portugal. Looking for some more inspirational destinations in Portugal. Have a peek at our travel guides and start planning your Portugal itinerary.
