Hot, vibrant and brimming with culture, Sevilla is my favourite Andalusian weekend break and the city in Spain I visit the most. I’ve already written an Andalusia Accommodation Guide including a list of places I’ve actually stayed in the region, but I thought it was about time we got up and personal with Seville’s charming neighbourhoods and gorgeous stays.
Not only do I visit the city every few months, I also plan Seville and Andalusia trips for dozens of couples and families every year. Whatever month it is, you can guarantee Ive spent some of it seeking the best accommodation for my clients and plotting memorable trips. Naturally, I’ve built up my own wish list of hotels, apartments and unique stays. Since there is not enough time in the world for me to stay in all of them, I may as well share them with you.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
How long to spend in Seville
Seville is one of those cities that you can fit a lot into a day but deserves more time. 4 days is a good number to allow you to see and experience without filling every hour of the day. If you have a week you can take a day trip around the Pueblos Blancos or visit Cรณrdoba, Jerez de la Frontera or Cadiz.
Best areas to stay in Seville : Which neighbourhood ?
This is where we need to start because there are lots of different corners of Seville each with their own personality. I’m not going to bore you with every neighbourhood in this post but there are two main considerations.
Where to Stay in Triana
My favourite neighbourhood to stay because it feels like it’s own town and has a really local atmosphere, yet it’s just a short walk over the bridge to the main sites and action. It’s also great for traditional tapas bars and late night flamenco.
This is in the heart of the action and historic centre where your architectural neighbours are likely very old and very beautiful. Great for first timers. I’ve stayed in/around Santa Cruz several times, and for a first visit I’d choose it if being able to walk everywhere is your priority.
Andalusia is all about passion, and there is nowhere that is more true than Seville. It’s the perfect city for couples, with cosy rooftops, underground flamenco and sharing plates. These are the best spots for a romantic stay.
Seville is one of the cheaper cities in Spain for accommodation. Here are a few options for less than โฌ120 a night (and a few highly rated hostels too)
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
I visit Seville at least twice a year so I’ll keep updating this guide! I hope it’s helped you figure out where to stay in the vibrant city of Seville. Happy Planning!
Welcome to the not enough time but that won’t stop me side of this travel planning website. This is a travel guide to help you make the most of your short time in Seville. It’s part of a series of travel guides called 24 hours in.
’24 Hours in…’ Travel Guide Series
This is a collection of short travel guides on how to spend 24 hours in various cities or islandsย in Spain, Italy and Portugal. The guides are written from my own personal travels and 24 hour side quests since moving to Portugal in 2016. 24 hours is never enough time to see and experience a destination fully and this series is never about suggesting you only spend 24 hours in any of these places. They exist to help youย maximise 24 hours if that is all you have. These guides are written from my personal experience as a professional travel planner and all round well-travelled human.ย
Who am I and why am I telling you how to spend 24 hours in Seville?
Iโm an independent travel planner based in Portugal since 2016 and planning and executing trips to Spain and Italy for over 10 years. Itinerary design is my profession and my passion and Iโve helped hundreds of people plan trips to southern Europe (including Seville and the region of Andalusia). Iโve lived out my own 24 hours in Seville trip, which is the basis of this guide, but I also visit Seville multiple times a year. Iโve spent extensive time researching and traveling around Andalusia (itโs my favourite region of Spain) which means you can trust the information you see here.
Andalusia is my most-visited region of Spain. I spend anywhere from a few weeks to a few months a year road tripping my way around the region. You’ll find everything you need to plan a trip to Andalusia right here.
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
Getting in and out of Seville : Planes, cars, trains & buses
Arriving to Seville by Plane
Seville airport is small, but well-connected. Getting to and from the airport is easy but allow up to an hour to get from the airport to your accommodation. The airport bus is known as the EA and costs โฌ5 each way. You can buy tickets on board. The main stop is Santa Justa train station which is reached in about 30 minutes but the bus goes on to more central parts of the city after this stop. Alternatively you can take an Uber or Bolt.
Arriving to Seville by Car
Andalusia is a region best explored by car. I embark on a 2 week road trip through the region every summer and having my own wheels has helped me reach places most donโt go. If you are visiting Seville as part of a longer trip then you may have a car. You donโt need a car in Seville and although parking is not impossible it’s also not easy so I recommend picking up your rental car after your time in Seville.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
If you combine a trip to Seville with a trip to Portugal, the city is only 3 hours from central Algarve and 4.5hours from Lisbon.
I can personally recommend Zest for car hire in Spain. Iโve used them on all of my road trips around the region. Iโve got myself in various pickles over the years but the no excess insurance has always covered my back. The customer service team is brilliant too.
Arriving to Seville by Train or Bus
Seville is well connected by both train and bus. There are good (and usually fast connections) to other major cities like Madrid, Malaga, Cordoba, and Granada. Renfe is the main train service but AVE (high speed trains) are also available between some cities such as Madrid and Seville. Santa Justa station is the main train station in Seville. Seville is also well-connected by bus. The most frequently used bus services are Alsa and Flixbus.
24 Hours in Seville : Tips to make the most of it
Research before. Feel free during your trip.
I am always blown away by how few people actually research a destination before a trip. Transport, logistics, opening and closing times, hotel locations, activity details, routes between sites, etc.
These are all necessary to make the most on a trip to Seville but things that take time to research and put together. Itโs better to spend that time before your trip rather than while youโre on it. Plan, plan, plan before you land because everything you do now, gives you extra minutes and hours in Seville. Luckily for you, youโve made it here. This travel guide will help you maximise time in the city.
The Caveat : Donโt plan every single minuteโฆ
Planning is key and the research you do now will save you time while you are in Seville but if you have every half hour of your day planned out before you arrive you miss out on the unexpected moments that come from wandering without a plan. It makes sense to have a list of places you want to visit and a rough route to follow but always allow for some free time too. Itโs usually this time that ends up being the most memorable.
If youโd like some help on planning the perfect 24 hours in Seville or know how you can build this into an Andalusia itinerary, book a travel consultation and I can remove all of that stress for you. Travel planning is my job so Iโm equipped to help you make the most of your trip and help you build an itinerary that aligns with you.
See Seville at Sunrise
24 hour trips are not the time to savour slow mornings in hotel rooms, they are the trips to get out and about with the birds. Iโm a fan of sunrise in any city and Seville is no exception. One of the best ways to maximise time in Seville is to get out for those first few golden hours of the day. Sites like the cathedral and particularly Plaza de Espaรฑa are serene at this time of day and make the morning cafe del leche even sweeter.
Get around Seville by Bike
Another way to maximise time while also having a fun experience is exploring Seville by bike. Seville is considered the most bike-friendly city in Spain. Tip: Pick up your bike the night before if you can so you can get out the door super early. Youโll be rolling through the streets without another soul and seeing the sites from a privileged perspective without the crowds. Riding through the historical centre is best in the morning otherwise you will need to weave in and out of people. The river is a more spacious area to ride. I used All of Seville to rent but there are lots of options. Book in advance if you can.
Running Seville
My most recent trip to Seville was part of my 5 cities, 5 days, 50km challenge trip. I ran 10km a day for 5 days in 5 different cities. Seville was city number one, when I was at my most enthusiastic and I loved bounding between the sites of the city at first thing. I have visited Seville so many times so I know the city well but I still planned a running route before I arrived which made the 10km feel like a breeze. If you plan on running around Seville, go early, before the crowds start filling in the city.
Where to stay in Seville
I’ve written a specific guide for best places to stay in Seville.
These are the classic hotels to stay in Seville. All rated 9.0 or more. Book in advance during summer months. BookingCom has free cancellation in most cases.
Hotel Casa 1800 – 4*, historic centre, rooftop pool and amazing views
Hotel Colรณn (by Melia), 5*, central, luxury, leading hotel
Best Hotels and Apartments in Triana
A special note for this neighbourhood because, staying here feels like staying in a town seperate to Seville but still only a short walk from the buzz of central Seville. Triana is my choice for most trips to Seville.
Cavalta Small Luxury hotels, 5* Boutique hotel in the heart of Triana
Budget Stay Options in Seville
Do you prefer to spend your money of activities and food than accommodation? Seville is one of the more affordable cities in Spain compared to Madrid and Barcelona which means there are plenty of options to help you with this plan.
In my opinion Seville is one of the tastiest cities in Andalusia but the sheer number of restaurants makes picking just one or two very difficult.
Best Tapas Bars Seville
With such a short amount of time I recommend conducting a ‘tapas route’ and tasting something different in each. Here are a few I personally recommend.
Casa Eme – Proof that no matter how many times I visit Seville, I will never know it all. Despite visiting Seville every year for 10 years my first visit to tapas bar Casa Eme was in 2026 and i would now consider it my top choice. Small bar, small menu, big flavour, the best Solomillo whiskey sauce. Still dreaming of it today. Arrive early.
Bar Casa Morales Traditional family-run tapas bar
El Rinconcello – you will see this on every single tapas bar list because it’s the oldest in Seville. Thanks to the name it is now very very busy but the food is great. More than that, the building is beautiful and even if you don’t eat it’s worth popping your head into to see the tiles.
Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas – Indulge in tapas on a Typical patio, also for breakfast
Pelayo Bar Wooden tables, traditional setting, all the favourites
Las Teresas This is a tourist haunt and not somewhere you are going to bump into locals but I do love the buzz in here. The setting is exactly that you expect from a Andalusian bar and honestly despite the reviews, I have great food every time. It is crowded, but worth a quick stop.
La Antigua Abacerรญa (Triana) I have fond memories of rosemary encrusted manchego and pig cheeks.
Las Golondrinas (Triana) Tiny tapas bar with local vibe and typical dishes.
Want to get to know Seville’s food scene and history more deeply? Book a food tour with a local. This is one of my favourite ways to learn about a city especially in Spain.
What to Eat : Foods to Taste in Seville
Salmorejo A cold tomato soup (thicker than gazpacho) served with egg and ham. Traditionally from Cรณrdoba
Jamon Ibรฉrico Iberian ham carved off the bone, need I say more?
Croquetas much loved by basically everyone and you can find them everywhere. Typically ham and cheese but you can find many versions. Each one varies from bar to bar which is part of the food adventure.
Berenjenas con Miel Hot, fried eggplant served with dark honey.
Solomillo al Whisky Pork tenderloin in whiskey sauce from Seville. The sauce is also used on other dishes like tortilla.
Cazon en Adobo Fried Cazon fish. One of my go to tapa dishes with wine in Andalusia.
Espinacas con Garbanzos Cooked chickpeas, spinach and spices. Stew-like.
Rooftops of Seville
Another way to spend an afternoon or evening is at a rooftop bar. A way to relax while enjoying the stunning architecture.
Best Seville Experiences and Activities to add to your Itinerary
Letโs start with the same bit of advice I give every time (and also the bit of advice I struggle to stick to myself) – donโt try to fit too much into your 24 hours in Seville. The experience will be much more enjoyable and memorable if you see and feel a few places deeply than rushing from point to point. So here is a list of suggestions to pick from, but don’t try to fit it all in.
Visit the Royal Alcazar – the obvious. You need a few hours at least to dedicate to this so make sure you plan for it in your 24 hours itinerary. Advanced booking essential. Tip: book direct, not with GYG or other third-party.
See the Cathedral. Marvel at its beauty with a take away coffee sat on the fountain.
Watch a flamenco show (see below)
Pre-plan a Tapas Route to get a taste of all the dishes (see above)
Wander the Triana neighbourhood, including the mercado.
If you’re visiting in summer, stop for an afternoon drinks next to the river
Rent kayaks and paddle the river
Watch Flamenco in a Tablao, Peรฑa and Taberna.
You’ll find this activity on every Seville itinerary and once you have watched a real show youโll understand why. I love Flamenco and Spanish guitar, the emotion in the music captures me like no other. I watch Flamenco every time I am in Andalusia and I’ve seen multiple shows in Seville.
There are many types of shows you can watch and these take part in different locations. For a first time experience start with an actual show. These shows are performed at Tablaos and are specifically for tourists but (as long as you choose a good one) are a quintessential Seville experience.
In addition to polished shows you can find various styles of Flamenco performances in Tabernas and Peรฑas.
Tabernas are essentially local bars where you can watch informal flamenco performances, sat on tables and enjoy drinks (and sometimes dinner).
Peรฑas are local Flamenco clubs. These offer a more intimate and intense performance where the focus is solely on the music, but without the regimented and polished nature of some of the tourist-driven shows.
Best Places to watch Flamenco in Seville
A few Flamenco options to consider, but this is by no means exhaustive :
Teatro Flamenco Sevilla the most popular Tablao for first-time visitors
La Carboneria Old warehouse tavern with patio and detailed features. This is a popular spot for tourists but consistently ranked as one of the best by locals too.
Peรฑa Flamenca Torres Macarena Local neighbourhood Flamenco club
Pura Vida Terraza Rooftop bar with casual Flamenco shows on Saturdays and Sunday
รnima Galerรญa Taberna A place to witness informal “jam sessions” also known as tertulias on Wednesdays and Saturdays. This is not the place to go for a polished show but it is the place to go for an authentic experience.
A special shout out to Cรณrdoba which is a city bathed in culture, including Flamenco. if you have longer than 24 hours I recommend staying in Cรณrdoba for some of your trip too.
Hereโs the thing. 24 hours is not enough time for Seville and the itinerary depends a lot on your personal travel style. Do you love history? Art? Food? Adventure? Itโs impossible to do it all in 24 hours, but if you only have one day then by knowing whats possible will help you make the most of this warm, vibrant and tasty city.
Only have 1 day in Seville? Here is how you could spend it.
Morning in Seville
Up at sunrise for either a run or walk to Plaza de Espaรฑa. This is one of the most popular sites in Seville and so it gets very crowded later in the day. If you arrive first thing in the morning not only will you have the space to enjoy it without rushing, you will see it in the most beautiful light. Then make your way to the cathedral for the same reason.
Next up, fuel. Coffee and breakfast. Whether you’ve run, cycled or strolled your way through the early hours youโre going to want to top up on all the good things Seville can offer at this time of day.
For typical Andalusian breakfast, you need to visit a typical cafe. Breakfast is usually toasted bread with grated tomato, olive oil and cured ham, sometimes with cheese too. Orange juice is common and of course coffee. For coffee con leche (with milk) is usual but so is espresso.
Looking for churros? Perfect – breakfast is the only acceptable time to eat them. It’s a common breakfast food and you’ll never see locals eating them in the afternoon.
If youโre a specialty coffee fan or looking for a more filling brunch style seville has plenty. For runch options, book in advance because they get full and you don’t want to waste your 24 hours queueing for eggs.
Next pick up rental bikes to explore the riverside and up to the Macarena neighbourhood. There are lots of options all over the city but bikes do sell out so book in advance if you can. We rented from โAll of Sevilleโ and the service was great. It was โฌ12 a day for a city bike with helmet, basket and lock.
Or if you are here for the history and architecture spend a few hours in the Royal Alcazar. Always book tickets in advance and be prepared for it to be busy.
Lunch in Seville
Time for a tapas crawl through Sevilleโs oldest and most vibrant streets. See the restaurants in my tapas bars list above for suggestions.
Afternoon / Evening in Seville
Next make your way to the neighbourhood of Triana for an afternoon in one of Seville’s most genuine neighbourhoods. Consider pre-booking a food tour with a local to dive a bit deeper into the scene.
Loop back to the city for hora de vermut. Get yourself to Setas for a snack and glass of wine or buy tickets to be at Setas for sunset and aurora.
Time for a flamenco show to round of the night in th emost perfect way. If you are lucky wnough to be here on a Saturday or Sunday then rooftop Flamenco is worth booking in advance. For a more raw expereince there are several penas that are worth a visit. See list above for ideas.
The best way to build an itinerary is to mix and match the sites, activities and experiences that are meaningful to you. Want some help figuring out what those are? Purchase a custom 1 day itinerary
48 Hour Seville Itinerary
Got an extra day to play with? Here are some ideas for day two.
Spend the morning in Alcazar without rushing.
Go to Setas for the aurora light show after sunset.
2-3 Day Seville Itinerary
Long weekend? Now we’re talking. 3-4 days is the best amount of time to spend in Seville. I recommend working with a travel planner who knows the city inside out to create an itinerary for 3 or 4 days. With this time you’ll be able to dive deeper into the culture and experience Seville in a personalised way. What do you love? History and architecture? Food and wine? Hands on experience? I can make it happen.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
In April 2026 I celebrated my 38th birthday and 4th cancerversary (4 years since cancer diagnosis – currently in full remission) by running 10km a day in 5 cities in 5 days. Seville – Palma – Barcelona – Venice- Rome.
The goal was simple. Wake up in a different city each day and run 10km with a different backdrop each day. For 5 consecutive days. The planning was meticulous and by some miracle (and an unusual level of faith in RyanAir) I pulled it off.
This post is half journal about my experience and half travel planning guide for anyone who wants to take on something similar.
If this is your first time on my website, please know this is not the usual thing you see around here.ย I do write about outdoor adventures and I do write travel guides about Spain, Italy and Portugal but this fast-paced style is not the norm for me. I prefer slow travel and taking time to get to know places. I’m an independent travel planner so I travel most months but more likely than not youโll find me road tripping around a town or region, not flying from city to city every day.
This trip was the exception and links with my 24 hours inโฆ series. The series is not about encouraging you to visit places in only 24 hours, but rather showing you how to do it if thatโs the only time you have.
You can see my usual travels through my Travel Guide Collection but if you want to see how this particular run-travel challenge worked out stick around.
Firstly, let me say this – I donโt actually recommend doing this if you actually want to experience the cities you are visiting because 24 hours or less in each place makes that impossible.ย This was a very personal challenge, specifically for my cancerversary which is why it’s a bit chaotic.
As someone who visits Italy and Spain very regularly I found there was no pressure to do anything other than run in each place because I already know these places through travel.
For me the experience was waking up in a different city to run with a different backdrop each day. My only goal was to complete a 10km run each day. Everything else was a bonus. The running was a key element of the trip for me, but of course you could do this without running every day if you wanted.
I hope this acts as a source of inspiration for a different type of travel and experience for those who like to think (or run) outside the box.
My original goal for this celebratory challenge was running 50km in one go from my home (Cascais) to the Vasco da Gama bridge in Lisbon. 6 weeks before the goal date I ran 43km in Porto as a tester. The run went well andย I felt on top of the world at the end, but the recovery was hard and long. I am currently training for a full Ironman and I knew I couldnโt risk injury so I decided to put my body first and change the format of the challenge.ย
The new challenge? Running 50 km over 5 days (10k every day for 5 days) but instead of doing it in the same place every day, I would do it in a different city, blending my love of travel and running.10km a day is not much of a physical challenge for the level of fitness I currently have, but doing it across 5 different cities added a new dimension to the challenge that quenched my thirst for some sort of adventure.ย ย
Once I got the idea in my head I couldnโt shake it so I started scouring SkyScanner. I became so invested in the plan that I couldn’t put my laptop down for two days, until I had figured out a route. In the space of 48 hours I’d created the route, booked the flights and convinced friends to join me for the first and last day. (Shout out to my YES friends).
โRulesโ for the challenge
When I first started creating a route, I tried simply picking the cheapest flight each day and I got really far with this idea. You would be amazed at just how little you can spend and how far you can go. The beginning stages of route planning were very fun and had me stopping over in some obscure places.
Eventually I had to rein it back because some airports were too far from the city to make it work logistically and economically, others were so random there wasnโt really much there. Could I run 10k? Sure , but I wanted to be running in locations where there was actually interesting stuff to see and some of these places didnโt tick that box. So I wound it back again and started making some rules which involved airports close to city centres (30-45mins) with frequent and cheap airport transport.
Which Cities made the cut but I easily could have added?
With this in place, the route started to take shape. I started to notice flight patterns and also noted my excitement or disappointment when adding destinations to the flight plan.
I soon realised that Venice was somewhere I was bending over backwards to fit into the itinerary, so it became a non-negotiable; as did Palma. I wanted to start in Seville as the flight time was really good from Lisbon and some friends agreed to join me for my birthday which was the first day of the trip.
After this I was able to come up with my route.
SEVILLE – PALMA – BARCELONA – VENICE – ROME
I made sure I had a full 24 hours in all of the cities, with the exception of BCN which was a shorter layover (I already visit BCN multiple times a year so I didn’t feel like I was missing out). This decision meant I could spend longer in Venice (which I hadnโt visited for 20 years). I ended the 5 days in Rome because I couldnโt think of a more iconic European run for my last 10km than passing the Colosseum. It was also the best place to meet a friend from Spain who came to celebrate with me after.
Cities that didn’t make the cut
Palermo & Catania. Sicily is my favourite place on the planet but I already had a trip planned to the region a month later.
Cagliari & Alghero (Sardinia) I couldnโt quite get my head around flying to the huge island of Sardinia for only 24 hours.
Valletta (Malta) This one almost made the cut but the flights were getting in so late it was going to mess up transport to the city.
Valencia. This is the one Iโm upset about. I couldn’t make it to work. The flight times wouldnโt work with some of the non-negotiables I had. Iโll be back.
Madrid. Very close to adding this and it was doable, but I chose BCN instead. I know BCN better and it made the short day of my trip much smoother.
Bologna. Another close one but I decided my first time visiting Bologna deserves more time. Bologna I’m coming back for you in the winter!
How much did the trip cost?
One of the stipulations of this trip was it needed to be budget-friendly because it was happening during a period of 2 months with a lot of travel and races already in my calendar. The main enabler of this run-travel adventure was the price of the flights. Which were shockingly cheap. All flights including Lisbon return flights (and one night bus) came to a total of โฌ130. Insane.
The average flight cost was โฌ20. Seville – Palma was the cheapest at โฌ12. The most โexpensiveโ was BCN – Venice at โฌ26. The overnight bus from Venice to Rome (6 hours) was โฌ9.
I stayed in budget accommodation everywhere except Rome where I booked a 4 star to celebrate my actual cancerversary date. Accommodation (capsule/hostel style) was between โฌ27 and โฌ44 a night, not including Rome which was 130 for aย 4 star double hotel room. It was possible to do it cheaper in some places and plenty of room to bougie it up if you wanted. If you have the budget, then real hotels would make the experience much more relaxing.ย
Planning a 5 day, 5 cities trip
The level of planning that went into this was intense. When you donโt have much time on the ground, every detail needs to be planned in advance. Scrambling for airport buses after landing is not ideal when you have such limited time. Iโm in my element planning itineraries but even for me this was a lot of fine, boring details to sort through to make sure it was going to work smoothly, even with my prior knowledge of the places I was visiting.
After this level of research, you can now consider me a flight connection guru. I know all the airport transport options, time and costs of all major cities in Spain and Italy. This one single trip levelled up my transport knowledge massively.ย
Why do I consider myself a travel planning expert? Exactly because of this. I live the work I sell. At any given point I have 3-4 trips in planning for myself alongside my client itineraries and trip plans.
Use Skyscanner to search for flights. Itโs the best tool on the internet.
Choose your dates (if you are able to be flexible, select your departure month instead).
Choose your From city
Setโ Toโ to โEverywhereโ and tick the โdirect flightsโ box
The next page will bring up a page of different cities your departure city flies and from lowest cost
Open the cities you’re interested in, on new pages and compare times and prices
Once the first stage is sorted do exactly the same for the next stage
Planning a 24 hour itinerary for each city
For this 5 day trip I wrote an individual itinerary plan for every city like I do for my itinerary clients, but with only 24 hours, how much of it I could achieve was limited. I took away the pressure of having to do too much and made the main goal of each city the 10km run, knowing that this run would also get me around the city and show me the sites on the move. Anything extra that I saw or did was a bonus.
I already knew Seville and Barcelona really well because I visit every year which made those days much more relaxing. Before this trip, I last visited Venice when I was 18 and this was the place I was most anxious to make the most of the short time I had.ย Palma was also new to me (even though I have traveled in Mallorca) but the city is more manageable to visit in a shorter time frame. Rome, being at the end and also not my first time to visit, was more of a place to relax. I spent the day after my last run cafe hopping with my friend in the Trastevere neighbourhood knowing full well Iโll visit Rome multiple times in my life.
I spent an obscene amount of time researching every city so that I had multiple options to tap into on arrival without having to think or search too much in that moment (which I usually enjoy). Off the back of that research and my own trip I wrote a series of 24 hour travel guides which, thanks to the nature of the detail orientated research, turned into some of the most comprehensive guides I have written. You can read them below.
24 HOURS IN SEVILLE coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN PALMA coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN BARCELONA coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN VENICE coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN ROME coming soon . . .
How did it go?
The trip was a success. I managed to make it to every city. I had a few short delays but nothing crazy. The trip obviously felt rushed and it was tiringย which I expected but it was also so much fun. I found that the adrenaline of always being on the move kept my spirits high and I saw more than I expected in the time that I had. And yes, I completed all the 10km runs. In Barcelona I ended up running an extra 4km so that I didn’t miss my flight to Venice.
The point of this trip was 5 cities in 5 days but if you have the luxury of time then spending at least 48 hours in each city would be a much richer (but still rushed) experience.
Seville : Best experiences
Arriving at Plaza de Espana 4km into our run to see the square in the most beautiful light
Tortilla con Solomillo al whisky sauce at Casa Eme (an absolute gem of a find)
Vermouth and tapas with a twilight view of Setas
Palma : Best experiences
Running along the ocean pathย to Playa des Penyรณ
Sea swim in crystal clear sea
Long sunny lunch on the patio atย Cafรจ Es Pes de sa Palla
Barcelona: Best experiences
Sagrada Familiar WITHOUT scaffolding!
Running along the pier under the bluest sky, surrounded by that unbeatable BCN vibe
Post run dip at the beach
Venice : Best experiences
Running into Venice along the Mestre bridge
Ice cold spritz perched on a stone wall next to the canal
Jumping on a random boat at Dorsoduro to see sunsetย from the water
Rome : Best experiences
Running to a new country (The Vatican) and beating the crowds
Running past the Colosseum and not worrying about queuing to go in because the only plan for the rest of the day was to sip spritz in Trastevere
Afternoon drinks in Trastevere. Trapizzino was the perfect hangout spot
Mouthwatering dinner and expertly selected wine at Vanda
There you have it – my 5 cities, 5 day trip with 50km of running thrown in. I honestly loved it. It exceeded my expectations and despite being very tired I would happily go back and do it again. I’m already plotting the next run travel adventure. Where next?
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy but don’t know where to begin? I’m your gal!
It’s almost a year since I visited Mallorca. I was extremely late to the party on this one. Apart from a trip to Menorca in my teenage years, the Balearics remained untouched on my travel list until last year when I finally booked myself a trip to Mallorca and Formentera.
The reason this guide has taken so long to write is becauseโฆ I wasn’t blown away by Mallorca. I was actually somewhat disappointed; but hang fire for a moment. If you make it to the end of this travel guide you may change your mind with me.
And look, Iโm not naive here. Its 2026 and tourism has been negatively (and positively) affecting islands like Mallorca for years and years but the type of overdevelopment here is my least favourite. It has prioritised money at the expense of natural beauty, a little bit like Algarve in Portugal did in the 1970s-1990s.
And it’s everywhere, even the smallest of coves appear to have great lumps of white concrete growing out of them. I believe there is a way you can welcome tourism, make money from it and support the local infrastructure and natural beauty while you do it but I found little evidence of that in much of Mallorca.
That isn’t to say natural beauty and areas of undiscovered beauty donโt exist. They do, but they are harder to reach, which brings me to the next point.
Unless you have a boat it is almost impossible to find an undeveloped stretch of coast.
Traffic is a royal pain in the ar$e as soon as you pull off that main motorway running from Palma to Pollenรงa. Why? Too many cars and buses for narrow windy roads. Why? We (me included) all want to visit these small quaint towns and tiny coves.
Mallorca gives the illusion or rather, it sells itself as a small island, but the reality is very different. Mallorca is the largest of the Balearics and visiting all the different corners of the island is not as easy as the tourism board makes out. It is annoyingly difficult and time consuming to get around, especially if you want to explore the towns on the west side or the beaches in the south east. Even in the off-season (I visited in April) the traffic and parking is horrific.
Anyway, I digress.
A Caveat
I have not spent enough time on the island to warrant claiming anything with great confidence, It wouldnโt be fair to do so. Take what I say as one opinion of many; as something to consider as a first-time visitor but not base your entire trip on.
Giving Mallorca another chance
Iโve done some seriously deep research for this island, not only for my trip but for my travel planning clients too. Iโm currently planning a week-long trip for a client who is visiting the island this year and it forced me to take another look at the island. Through my extra research for this trip, I have started to develop more of an appreciation for Mallorca and Iโm willing to give it another chance. Now I look back through my photos and I remember that there are special moments and experiences to be found amongst its downfalls.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
Apart from the very obvious over-development, Mallorca does have pockets of immense beauty and even though they are busy, it’s hard not to fall a little bit in love, especially with the western villages and gorgeous blue ocean.
Why you should give Mallorca a chance
For Natural Beauty
For a Sporty Holiday
For a Boat Trip
For Catalan Culture, Language & Food (in some areas)
For Beach Relaxation (if you stay in one place)
What I can help with is recommendations because I have spent months researching the Balearics including Mallorca for my own travel and for many others so I do know what’s out there to enjoy.
MALLORCA TRAVEL PLANNING MAP COMING SOON…
How to make the most of Mallorca
There are a few ways to channel the special experiences and reduce the stress when visiting Mallorca.
Spend longer. There are ways to make Mallorca more enjoyable and the main one is to spend longer here. Dedicating 10 days or 2 weeks to the island gives you the chance to visit the different corners. If you donโt have the luxury of time, research well and pick one or two areas to visit and stay, no more.
Donโt try and do it all. I offer this tip on all my guides and itโs the one that I fail at myself so many times. Reduce the number of places, increase the quality of the experience.
Wake up and go early. Early birds are rewarded in the Balearics. Get out and about by 9am and find parking easier, stroll beaches with less people and enjoy driving the beautiful, winding roads alone. The earlier the better.
Save parking locations before you travel. There is nothing more stressful than driving around a tiny, busy village looking for parking. Have several parking locations saved on GoogleMaps for each location before you visit and save yourself the stress and hassle. Keep coins on you for parking meters. Parking locations can be found on my Mallorca trip planning map.
Book restaurants in advance. There are some stunning restaurant choices in Mallorca and while you will never be stuck for a place to eat around Palma the other towns and beach locations can and do get fully booked in advance. This is particularly true for Valledemossa, Deia and Soller.
โHidden gemsโ do exist, they just look different to what you pictured. The words Hidden gems have become associated with โinstagram-worthyโ photos and it drives me insane. Hidden gems or what I like to call the โlesser-known local spotsโ are not about being pretty or photographer-friendly (even though some of them are) they are local sites or experiences that capture the culture of the place you are visiting. They are places unspoilt by modern tourism. In Mallorca this looks like the eastern interior where you can drive through very local towns that despite not being particularly picturesque, give you the opportunity to sample local culture and cuisine in small restaurants without the crowds. Dedicate some of your time to discovering these places. Share your well-earned holiday money in locations a little further from the well-trodden trail.
Combine it with a trip to Formentera. Formentera is the opposite of Mallorca. It is laid back & wild (not in a party sense); its the perfect antidote to a week of scrambling to see everything Mallorca has to offer. I fell in love instantly.
Mallorca is a natural playground so outdoor adventures and activities are king. One thing is true, no matter how long you spend, you definitely won’t be bored on the island of Mallorca.
Tip: Palma has some fun experiences like sandal making and pottery class that are great for a rainy day if you’e visiting in the off-season.
Cycling Holidays in Mallorca
There is one scenario where I am a huge advocate for Mallorca, and that’s for a cycling holiday. I knew that the island was popular for cycling and triathlon but I had no idea just how much the island had welcomed bikes until I visited. Cycling tours and training camps are everywhere and the roads are full of bikes. This can be frustrating for drivers in some cases, for example, when driving up the infamous Ma-2210 but it was really refreshing to see bicycles being treated with respect on the roads. I actually appreciated the chance to slow down in the car and soak up the views while ascending with the bikes. Iโm obviously no expert after one trip but the impression I had was that cyclists are mostly treated as equals on the roads. If you are considering a cycling holiday or triathlon camp, Mallorca is spectacular for it.
Hiking in Mallorca
The other reason Iโm all for Mallorca is the breathtaking 150km hiking route GR221, aka the “dry stone route”. Iโve ventured on small stretches of the route but not completed any of it. It remains my biggest reason to return to Mallorca. Since I haven’t completed the trail myself, Iโm not the one to tell you how to do it. My research has uncovered a few great resources :
Lilo from Tails of a Trail has written a personal account which seems really useful
GR221 is in my near future, so I’ll be sure to update once Iโve enjoyed the trail to its full capacity.
Swimming in Mallorca
Swimming is the one activity I did indulge in during my time on the island and wow. Some of the coves I swam in during this trip remain core memories and account for some of my most favourite swims in southern Europe.
Although nothing tops La Maddalena in Sardinia for me.
Best Beaches in Mallorca
Cala Formentor
Calรณ des Mร rmols
Calo des Moro
More on The Mallorca trip planning map
Accessible Beaches in Mallorca
The Handiscover website has a detailed list and find more options below. Plan in advance during busy seasons.
Cala Bona. Includes ramps, parking, adaptive showers and assisted bathing)
Playa de Muro. Has several wooden walkways and amphibious beach chairs.
Es Trenc
Palmanova
Playa de Palma
Magaluf
Water Activities and Boat Rental
If you’re spending time in Mallorca, it’s definitely worth jumping on a boat tour.
More water activities & experiences on the Mallorca trip planning map
Getting Around Mallorca
Unless you are staying put in Palma, a car is necessary in Mallorca. As much as I complain about the traffic from late morning onwards, visiting the island without the car cannot give you the full experience.
If you have the budget, working with a private driver for the western towns would be a relaxing way to do it.
If you want to rent a car I recommend using the broker Zest or Discover. I have personal experience using both. I have been using Zest for years in Portugal and Spain and they are my go-to. I recently started using Discover in Italy and had a positive experience.
Important: Avoid the car rental company Centauro. I had a very negative experience with them in Palma. They have several scams running (you only have to look at reviews on Google to see).
Mallorca Where to Stay
As Iโve mentioned – itโs a big island so consider where you want to spend most of your time when choosing accommodation. If you plan on visiting many locations on the island, consider splitting your time across two bases. For example Palma and Pollenรงa would be a good mix. As always I use BookingCom for accommodation because it has the widest range and best value. If you have the time it is also worth reaching out to accommodation directly and they can sometime offer a different rate. However resoinse rate is not always quick.
Palma
Palma is an obvious choice for many. The pro is that it is close to the airport and gives a mix of bustling city life and nearby beaches coast.
Sa Pedrissa Romantic hotel with stunning ocean views Deia
more on my Mallorca Trip Planning Map
Mallorca where to eat
Another thing the Balearic island of Mallorca does well is food. You certainly won’t go hungry. I curated a broad but considered selection of the best restaurants on the Mallorca Trip Planning Map. Whether you are looking for fancy, high-end delights in Palma, rustic country restaurants or sea views while you sip you’ll find the best restaurant, cafe and bar suggestions on The Mallorca Travel map. You’ll also find a foodie treasure hunt and list of traditional foods you have to try.
MALLORCA TRAVEL MAP COMING SOON
Why are you charging for this map?
Until recently I was offering all of my hours (and hours and hours) of research, planning and experience for free on this very website. You don’t have to look far to see the wealth of information on Travel in South Europe that has been shared here over the years (that is still available to help you plan your trip for free). Sadly in the last year much of my own research and personal experiences have been cannibalised by ChatGPT and other AI; taking literally all of my information and displaying it on those platforms without acknowledging this site or sending a click my way. This has forced me to find other ways to share this information while respecting the time it takes for the work I do. AI are not able to take information from my trip planning maps which allows me to protect some of my work. If you enjoy curated travel and unique suggestions, the trip planning maps will provide you with real value. For the cost of a coffee or pizza you’ll have access to hundreds of genuine and authentic experiences that you can’t find by the click of a button. If you have found my website and travel guides useful planing your trip but don’t need a personal travel planner, please consider purchasing a trip planning map. Thank you. Obrigada. Gracias. Grazie.
Personal Trip Planning in Mallorca & The Balearics
If you’re planning a trip to Mallorca or the Balearics have you considered working with an independent travel advisor rather than a travel agent or hashing it out by yourself? I’ve been living in southern Europe for 10 years and have planned trips for hundred of people visiting Spain, Portugal and Italy (including Mallorca) and I’d love to show you what is possible with a personalised itinerary.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
So, there you have it. My quick guide to Mallorca. Despite my cynicism after my first trip I feel ready to give the island some more of my time and I hope I can encourage you to do the same because the truth is, Mallorca is an island that deserves it.
I visited Formentera at the tail end of a trip to Mallorca and instantly fell in love with the laid back vibes, electric blue and turquoise ocean, white-sand beaches, and gravel tracks that make you feel like youโve discovered the island before anyone else. Formentera is well known, but much, much less developed than the other Balearic islands. It is the perfect island to switch off and appreciate the natural beauty of the Balearics without the fuss.
Travel in The Balearics – 4 islands, 4 very different worlds
What I do know to be true, is that all 4 islands are very different from each other. Choosing an island to visit will depend on your travel style and holiday plans. If youโre looking for a more relaxed pace of trip with plenty of beach time and nature, Formentera is for you.
My Formentera Trip – Who should use this travel guide?
If this is your first time visiting Formentera this guide will help you plan your trip. This mini travel guide will help you with the basics and give you a brief insight into what to expect and what you can enjoy on the island. As I only spent a very short time in Formentera, I obviously donโt claim to be an expert, but hopefully this guide will be a good starting point for anyone traveling to Formentera.
My travel style is laid back, beaches, natural beauty and, โoff the beaten pathโ adventures. So if one of these ticks your boxes, you should find this guide useful.
Iโm not one for partying and nightlife (although I do love a good sunset bar) so it might not be that useful if thatโs what you are looking to get out of your trip. I am a travel planner for work so I always spend time going into great detail when researching and my trip Formentera was no different.
Why Visit Formentera?
Formentera is the smallest, quietest, and most undeveloped of the Balearics and thanks to this it is overrun with natural beauty and holds onto a slower-paced life. Ideal if youโre in need of a switch off from the frantic, uber-connected everyday life we have all come accustomed to. The island is also the place to visit if you’re a beach fanatic. The coastline here is stunning and very accessible.
Where is Formentera?
Formentera is the smallest inhabited Balearic island, located 100km off the east coast of Spain, almost in line with Alicante.
When to Visit Formentera?
The shoulder season in late May/June and late September/October is the best time to visit Formentera because you have a good chance of warm, sunny weather but without the crowds and nightlife that the summer season attracts. However, since the island isnโt as developed as Ibiza or Mallorca there are still quiet places in nature to be found, even in mid-summer. Do expect prices to soar in July and August. The winter season brings unpredictable and cooler weather meaning some of the beaches won’t be as enjoyable (and swimming may not be safe), but being the Med, you can still expect an abundance of blue sky days throughout the winter. In winter the majority of the beach bars and restaurants close down or have limited hours.
How Long to Spend in Formentera?
Itโs possible to visit Formentera as a day trip from Ibiza but I recommend staying a while. You can see the island in a few days but a week would allow for an even more relaxed experience. With two weeks to play with youโll know the island like the back of your hand. Since it is well connected with the other islands, you could also mix it with a trip to Ibiza and/or Malliorca.
Slow Travel in Formentera
This island is made for slow travel. What do I mean by that? Take your time to get around, use a bicycle or your own two feet rather than a car, savour the flavours and moments, stop rushing from one place to the other, switch the phone off, sit on the sand, cycle to get bread, chat with the locals in the cafe; Formentera makes it very easy to do all of the above.
How to get to Formentera
Formentera does not have an airport so itโs only reachable by boat. Ferries are available from Ibiza, Mallorca or mainland Spain. Ibiza is the best and quickest option.
Booking a Ferry to Formentera from Ibiza
Book ferries in advance online on the Trasmapi website or in the port.
The ferry service between Ibiza and Formentera is frequent and reliable, costing around โฌ20-โฌ25 each way. They run approximately every 45mins from morning until evening and take around 30 minutes. Ibiza port is reachable by public bus (40 mins) from the airport. If you are pressed for time. Taxis from Ibiza airport to the port are metered by time and distance and usually cost between โฌ15-โฌ18.
Note: Some accommodation providers on the Formentera provide the option to add on flexible ferry tickets at a slightly cheaper rate than online which also includes tickets for the public bus between Ibiza airport and the port.
How to Get Around Formentera
Renting a Bicycle/ Electric bike or scooter in Formentera
A very popular, and in my opinion the best way to get around Formentera is on two wheels. Formentera lends itself to slow travel. The island is very small, about 19km tip to tip, and is bike friendly, the majority of roads having a cycle lane. .
Choose a mountain bike over a city bike so that you can be more comfortable on the gravel tracks that lead you to some of Formenteraโs best coves and beaches.
I rented my ladies MTB from Pujols Rentals and it included a lock and helmet (ask for lights if you want to cycle at night). I booked in advance online (20% off) and picked up from the ferry port in Savina. They have several outlets all over the island which would have been useful if there was a problem with the bike (there wasnโt). My bike was a bit old but worked perfectly well for my time and I will use the company again when I return.
If youโre looking for an electric bike, shop around as there are varying quality and prices to be found.
A note on helmets: A lot of people choose not to wear a helmet, and I struggle to understand why. If you are cycling on roads with moving traffic then you should be wearing a helmet. Even if youโre just on the gravel tracks it only takes one fall to hit your head. Just wear a helmet. It could save your life.
Renting a car in the Balearics
If youโre coming to Formentera as part of a longer/multi-island trip you may have a rental car. You can take a car ferry from Ibiza to Formentera but double check with your rental company that you are covered to take the car off the island you rented from. I recommend the broker Zest for car hire in the Balearics. Iโve been using them since 2019 all over Portugal, Spain and Italy because they have fantastic insurance and customer service. When selecting a car rental company. Avoid Centauro at all costs. I had an extremely negative experience with them in Palma.
There are only 6 towns in Formentera, each with varying levels of services/ facilities. There is also the option to rent a house/villa in a rural or coastal area, away from the towns. Here are some options to consider:
Es Pujols / Salines
If you want to be close to both beaches and restaurants/shops Es Pujols is the place to be. It has a nice mix of beach restaurants, cafes and shops. Plus itโs closest to Ses Illets. This place does have nightlife so bare that in mind during the on season. I stayed at Emar Hotels Apartments and it was perfect. spacious apartments, well-furnished. A 5 min walk from the beach and with a big swimming pool to laze around if thats more your vibe.
Es Calรฒ
Built for holiday makers, expect lots of holiday rentals and few shops. The bonus is that you have access to the quieter coves and beaches this area boasts.
Sant Francesc Xavier
This is Formenteraโs main town and houses 3000 residents. It also has the biggest concentration of facilities. Itโs a 10 minute drive from the beaches of Es Pujols.
El Pilar de la Mola
La Mola is Formenteraโs highest point but for this rather flat island this translates to only 193m. If you want to stay here and your mode of transport choice is a non-electric bike, consider if cycling up and down to go anywhere is the right decision for you.
Best beaches in Formentera
For me, like many, Formenteras biggest asset are its beaches. Considering it is a small island it has plenty of coastline to explore (69km to be exact) and an array of coves and beaches to get your feet wet. The majority of beaches are easy to access by foot or car/scooter with parking close by and no rock scrambling.
Arguably the best thing about Formentera being a small island is that whatever the conditions are, you can almost always find a sheltered spot. It is important to remember that the island is sometimes subjected to swell (waves). The south coast is more popular for surfing and wind surfing and the north coast is more likely to be sheltered and better for swimming, but this can change depending on the weather systems. Wherever you are you can guarantee a clear ocean.
Why is the water so clear in Formentera?
The sea water in Formentera is crystal clear thanks to a type of native Mediterranean seagrass called Posidonia oceanica. Not only does this wonder-grassfilter sediment and particles leaving the water gin-like, but it also gives Formentera UNESCO world heritage status.
How to choose a beach in Formentera
A really useful app is Wind Finder which shows you wind direction and strength using an easy to understand map. Available on desktop and as a mobile app. I use this frequently to find sheltered beaches.
The best thing you can do is spend a few days cycling around the coast to find your favourite beaches. These are the ones I enjoyed the most.
Ses Illets A string of crescent bays that are part of a natural park, reaching almost as far as Ibiza. Out of this world beauty. It can be more exposed to wind.
Es Pujols Such a chilled area to relax (although definitely one of the more busy beaches in season) with access to some laid back beach bars and restaurants
รs Calo (west) Quaint fisherman inlet with picturesque white and blue buildings. Just north youโll find a nudist friendly beach with a few rock pools.
Platja de Migjorn South coast swathe of sand, can be more sheltered from northerly winds. The further north the more relaxed it is. Head to Pelayo Chiringuito for a laid-back beach shack vibe.
Cala Saona Your best sunset spot
Accessible / wheelchair-friendly beaches in Formentera
Many of the beaches have car parks and are accessible by boardwalk but most boardwalks have steps. An exception to this is Es Pujols beach (10mins drive from Savina port) which has a ramp all the way to the sand. Es Arnals (15mins drive from Savina port) has a wooden ramp, disabled parking, disabled toilets and amphibious chairs available.
Best Experiences and Activities in Formentera
Beach hopping (obviously) – rent a bike and cycle your way round the island. Itโs the best way to discover all the little coves.
Ses Salines Natural Park
Cycle the dirt track along the pink-tinged salt flats to Ses Illets
Watch Sunset from Cala Saona/ Blue Bar
Boutique shopping in Es Pujols – This place to kit out your summer/beach wardrobe.
What To Eat & Drink in Formentera
Best Restaurants and Bars in Formentera
Bearing in mind that during this first trip I didnโt have a lot of time to try all the restaurants and bars but Iโve included the ones that I did visit and also the options I have on my research list.
Best Restaurants Formentera
La Kasa dei Kolori (Es Pujols) Italian breakfast and lunch with good coffee. I can recommend the ricotta, honey and fig croissant but they have more substantial options too.
La Cava Formentera Right on the beach at Es Pujols is this laid back beach restaurant. Itโs not easy to find decent beachview restaurants, too often they get away with average food and high prices but every now and again you find a good one
El Gioviale A pretty Italian restaurant in Sant Francesc. Lots of people are raving about the carbonara.
Best Bars in Formentera
Chiringuito Briss (Es Pujols). Tiny beach shack bar at the far end of Es Pujols. Laid back bar with music at sunset. Donโt miss it.
Blue Bar An (wait for itโฆ) ALIEN-themed restaurant right on the sand. Iโm not sure why it’s alien themed but whether you come for the aliens or the sunset drinks or the dj itโs a fun addition to your Formentera itinerary. Located at the end of a dirt path.
Best โHiddenโ Gems in Formentera
Iโm not sure I can really claim there are many hidden gems in Formentera. Itโs a small island and people have been traveling here for decades. But there are some areas which are quieter than others.
Guingueta Pelayo, north end of Platja de Migjorn This beach shack bar is reminiscent of my days in Indonesia and Thailand. Rustic and laid back and the entry point to a swathe of white sand and nudist beach. This is a place to truly switch off. No phones. Respect peace and nature and let’s keep this off instagram please.
Calo des Mort โHeat of death?โ erm, looks lovely though! Small, cute swimming cove, perfectly hidden. It is located in an area that can be subjected to swell. Only swim when safe.
On my list for next timeโฆ
I only scratched the surface of this mini paradise and Iโm already putting plans to come back here before the end of the year. Hereโs what Iโm adding to my itinerary next time:
Walk the Island – Formentera is the perfect size for a hiking holiday. There is very little elevation (except La Mola) making it not too strenuous. It would be really cool to set off with a backpack and hike a loop of the island. Itโs estimated to take 4 days.
Andalusia, Spainโs southern beauty and the destination of choice for my summer holidays over the past 4 years. As usual, I spend weeks in advance planning these trips and Iโm always proud of the places I find to stay. Whenever I share the spots I have a ton of messages from people asking for the details so to make it a little easier, here is a run down of my most recommended accommodations Iโve stayed in Andalucia in the past few years. I visit Andalusia multiple times a year and usually spend 2 weeks every summer roaming the pueblos blancos so this accommodation guide grows every year.
Now, if you know me, you know Iโm not usually one to โholidayโ; I tend to travel, trip, adventure, whatever you want to call it but it is rarely to relax. However every August I โtryโ to switch off from work for a week or two and I choose Andalucia to do that. Why? Because the heat in this part of Spain in August is intense and there is little to do except forced rest.
This is not a list of every place Iโve stayed in Andalusia, because many of them are not worth mentioning; this list are the places that really stood out as the best in the region.
With 6 weeks of travel around Andalusia under my belt Iโve built up a tonne of stays all over the region. From tiny villages like Montecorto and Archez to remote fincas in nature to some of Andalusiaโs most renowned cities. Iโve stayed in more than 25 locations across Andalusia and created a list of the best places to stay. Since I visit Andalusia multiple times a year (living next door has its advantages) Iโll continue to update as I go.
Although I sometimes get offered free stays, press stays or work in partnerships with some accommodation, I paid 100% for all the accommodation mentioned below.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
Where to Stay in Andalusia, Spain
My guide to the places I’ve actually stayed across Andalusia, including hotels, cottages, fincas, apartments and rural accommodation.
Accommodation Budget in Andalusia
Like most places, in Andalusia you can find accommodation for any budget. The majority of my stays have been low to mid range. The majority of my trips have been as a solo person and I generally spend between โฌ50-100 a night. Of course, it is possible to find stays for all budgets in Andalusia. The cities have hostel rooms (anywhere between 20-50 euros a night for a well rated one), rural areas have camping and glamping and you can find plenty of luxury and boutique hotels & fincas to enjoy whatever your budget.
How & When to Book Accommodation in Andalusia
Typically I use a mix of BookingCom, Airbnb and GoogleMaps to find and book accommodation in Andalusia. I find BookingCom is the best value and also the best place to search because almost all accommodation can be found there. Most properties on Booking have a free cancellation period option which is handy if you don’t have your plans nailed down yet. Airbnb is good for finding some more rare, unusual places that are not listed on BookingCom.
Important:When searching on booking sites sometimes thy show accommodation that is far away from he centre of the location you are looking at. Always use the map tool to check you are close enough to where you want to be.
If you are traveling in peak season I recommend booking accommodation 2-3 months in advance if possible. When I travel in the summer I book everything in advance because a lot of places do get fully booked, especially in the more well known destinations. However, if you can be flexible (you have a car and you’re not super fussy) you can still find places last minute.
Where to stay in Andalusia
Here are a mix of cities, towns and villages that you should think about adding to your itinerary. Listed from west to east (roughly)
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
Best Pueblos Blancos to Stay when coming from Seville
If you’re arriving at Seville airport for your Andalusia trip then your focus should be on the official Pueblos Blancos route which are located in the west of the region. The closest to Seville is Arcos de la Frontera. From there you can go to the Grazalema natural park and visit Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Olvera, Ronda and Montecorto.
I visit Seville many times every year so naturally I’ve built up lots of experience at finding the best places to stay. I’ve written a whole guide on that.
Best Pueblos Blancos to Stay when coming from Malaga
If Malaga is your starting point then your focus should be on the white villages in the east of the Andalusia. Closer to Malaga you have the touristy (but very pretty) Frigiliana as well as Comares. Further east you have Cรณmpeta and then higher up, in the mountain villages of Trรฉvelez, Capileira, Bรบbion and Pampaneira.
Best hotels, apartments and guesthouses to stay in Andalusia
These are my very very favourite places Iโve stayed during my time spent in Andalusia. Use this list if you are not sure where you want to visit and need some inspiration for extra special hotels, guesthouses and apartments. I’ve also included a wish list which offers a wider range of places to stay.
This is a general rundown of some destinations you should add to your Andalusia itinerary. Use this list if you want to plan your trip and find accommodation along the way. Since this is an accommodation guide I wonโt ramble on about the cities, towns and villages here. If youโd like to read more, Iโve written extensively about them here >> Andalusia Road Trip Travel guide.
Trรฉvelez Cottage, Alta Trรฉvelez
This 3 bedroom traditional cottage was a gem of a find and it’s one of the best places to stay in Andalusia. Located in the top third of Trรฉvelez, a village in the stunning Alpujarras. The village is delightful to wander around, surrounded by mountains and home to the most famous jamon in Spain; well worth a trip. The cottage is equipped with absolutely everything you could need and it is superbly decorated. One of my favourite moments was drinking wine on the step at sunset.
A little slice of understated luxury in the heart of one of the best pueblos blancos in Andalusia – Arcos de la Frontera. Casa Grande is an oasis of calm, but the best bit is the rooftop terrace. Definitely one of my favourite stays in Andausia.
Wow. Honestly this place was one of my favourite ever stays considering the price point. This one room guesthouse/B&B has a private pool with the most incredible view. Finca Flor is run by a friendly couple and all details have been thought of, including honesty bar and robes. To top it off, despite its peaceful location it is close to some of the best towns in Andalusia. Fantastic breakfast included. This B&B gets booked up months in advance for summer season so do not leave it too late to book.
The most remote place Iโve stayed in Andalusia is also one of the best. Set completely in nature, 20 minutes down a dirt track, Finca Serrato is a true escape (not easy to find these days). The pool has the best view of any place I have stayed in Andalusia. It is simple, relaxing and the perfect place to switch off.
This 4 bedroom guest house is located in a cute village close to Grazalema Natural park and Ronda. The rooms are designed and decorated with love and the garden, surroundings and rooftop pool leave you happy to stay for a while. Amazing breakfast with local produce also available.
1 bedroom apartment tucked away in a cute residential area, only a short walk from the Mezquita. The best feature is the balcony in the living room looking out over a small plaza with a fountain. I stayed for 6 nights in August and it this apartment was the best place to hide from the afternoon heat.
Cheap and cheerful. Filled to the wooden beams with character and located smack bang in the middle of Cรณmpeta. One of the best value places I have stayed in Andalusia but also one of the best for interior. It is getting increasingly difficult to find apartments that don’t look like an Ikea catalog but that’s not the case with La Tienda. So many unique features and little pieces of history to be found. I stayed in the single apartment and it was perfect.
If you are traveling solo or as a couple I can definitely recommend to stay at book Castillo Suite 15. The one bedroom house has a spacious living area, comfortable bed, great shower and small balcony overlooking the whole of Comares. The best part is the benches in front of the house that invite you to drink a glass of wine like the locals. This was my favourite stays in Andalusia during me 2025 trip and one of my all time favourites in the region. I would happily go back and stay for a week, using the house as a base to explore.
If youโre planning a trip to Andalusia you have probably heard of โpueblos blancosโ or โwhite villagesโ. The name refers to 19 whitewashed villages between Cadiz and Malaga and they can be counted as some of the most beautiful places to visit in all of Spain. Iโve stayed in many of the villages and some of the best places to stay in Andalusia are these. You can read more in my guide.
As I already mentioned I travel to Andalusia for summer every year, in addition to some short trips so Iโll continue to add my accommodation recommendations to this guide. I hope this travel guide helps you find the best places to stay in Andalusia Happy planning!
Updated in : January 2026 | Next trip : April 2026
So, youโre planning a trip to the magnificent region of Andalusia in Spain and are hoping to visit Spain’s best Pueblos Blancos while youโre there? This guide is for you.
I’ve been visiting Andalusia annually since I moved to Portugal in 2016 but in the past 5 years my focus has been visiting all of Spain’s prettiest white villages – los pueblos blancos. Every summer I embark on a few weeks of road tripping around the region. I have now spent more months worth of road trips pueblo hopping my way around Spain’s most picturesque region. I update this travel guide every year so it is always growing and you can guarantee it is up to date.
‘Pueblo Blanco’ translates to ‘white village’ in Spanish. The official Pueblos Blancos refer to 19 picturesque whitewashed villages in Andalusia located between Cadiz and Malaga. However, most guides also include the dozens of other white hilltop villages that can be found across the region under this same title. The villages I mention in this travel guide are a mix of “official” Pueblos Blancos and some lesser-known white villages; all of which are worth your time.
This guide is focused on the Pueblos Blancos in Andalusia. If you want a more in-depth look at the region then check out my Andalusian Road Trip Travel Guide.
Why Visit Andalusia?
There are many reasons why Andalusia is the perfect travel destination. Not least to mention the diversity of coast and mountain, sand and snow, wine andโฆsherry? Above all, the best reason to visit Andalusia is the heavy sprinkling of white villages that cover the region, better known as Pueblos Blancos. Some sprawling, some teeny tiny, some towering high like royalty, others crumbling down to the earth; all of them with tales of an interesting past. Thanks to its many influences throughout history, Andalusiaโs culture is rich and diverse.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
Not sure where to stay in Andalusia? I’ve written a guide listing all the places I’ve stayed
Let’s get this show on the road and have a look at the best pueblos blancos in Spain that I have personally visited over the last 5 years. Which Pueblos Blancos are the best to visit in Andalusia? Here are my picksโฆ
For more info on what to do and where to stay, keep scrolling.
Andalusia Travel Map
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
If your trip starts in Seville then your focus should be on the official Pueblos Blancos route. Closest to Seville is Arcos de la Frontera. From here you can go to the Grazalema natural park and visit Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Olvera, Ronda and tiny Montecorto.
If you re starting and ending in Malaga then your focus can be on the white villages to the east of the region. Closer to malaga you have the touristy but very pretty Frigiliana as well as Comares. Further east you have Cรณmpeta and higher up the mountain villages of Trรฉvelez, Capileira, Bรบbion and Pampaneira.
Arcos de la Frontera
One of the biggest and more well known Pueblos Blancos in Andalusia, Arcos de la Frontera is a must-visit stop to add to your road trip itinerary. Arcos is a well organised town and despite the jumble of streets youโll find your way round in no time.
Top Tip: Donโt try and drive to the old town. The streets are extremely narrow. Keep these streets for the locals. There is free street parking just before you reach the old town, although this can get busy. Alternatively you can use the underground parking.
Where to stay in Arcos de la Frontera
I spent a night at La Casa Grande but it could have easily been 4. It reminded me a little of the luxury riads you can find in Morocco. The rooms all have original features and the rooftop balcony surely has the best view in town.
Where to Eat + Drink in Arcos de la Frontera
These two restaurants sit side by side but both Taberna Jรณvenes Flamencos and La Cรกrcel serve up traditional dishes and have pretty patio seating.
Best Experiences in Arcos de la Frontera
A fun and novel experience in Arcos de la Frontera is buying convent cookies from the nuns at Comunidad de Mercedarias Descalzas. Enter the convent, choose your cookies and request them through the tinted screen. the turnstile will then reveal your cookies. It costs between โฌ7 and โฌ8 for a box of handmade cookies and the money goes back into the convent.
Vejer de la Frontera
One of my absolute favourite Pueblo Blancos and definitely one of the best white villages to visit in Spain. Situated only 20 mins from the coast and just 45 minutes from Cadiz. Small enough to feel special, big enough to fill a day or two of your itinerary. Seek out hidden rooftop cafes and soak up the sun in Plaza de Espaรฑa.
Where to stay in Vejer de la Frontera
Casablanca Relax y Baรฑo Termal. This boutique hotel has a spa and a hot spring bath (check the photos – honestly it’s stunning!).
There are lots of airbnb type properties in Vejer too, this apartmentwould be my pick for no other reason than that amazing terrace view.
The roads leading to Zahara de la Sierra are nothing short of spectacular. The lake appears suddenly as you round a bend, like a sparkling blue mirage. Then the castle topped village pops up ahead with a ribbon of white houses. Zahara de le Sierra is listed as one of the official 19 Pueblos Blancos in Andalusia and is one of the most best, but still relatively unknown white village in Spain.
There arenโt many restaurant choices in Zahara but you can find Restaurant El Cortijo half way up. The traditionally decorated restaurant has a cute courtyard and a unofficial antique museum which makes for an interesting browse. For the best. views pull up a chair at Meson Oรฑate. For some truly cheap and tasty tapas at an authentic bar, drive the few short minutes to Venta Restaurante El Cortijo.
Grazalema
I accidentally found Grazalema while driving between Ronda and Zahara de la Sierra. At the time I thought I had discovered a hidden gem (it definitely has that kind of undiscovered vibe still) but Grazalema is well known within Andalusia and for good reason. This village sits in the middle of the natural park and has breathtaking views of Sierra del Pinar. This is another area that shouldnโt be rushed. Take your time driving here and definitely head out on a hike or two in Sierra de Grazalema natural park. Grazalema is a Pueblo Blanco I will continue to return to time and time again!
Where to stay in Grazalema
Tambor del Lano is set in nature with a year round pool, about 2km from the centre.
Grazalemaโs best kept secret is the municipal pool. Arrive for opening and pay 1 euro (yes, โฌ1) to enjoy what I guarantee will be one of the best swimming pool views of your life. Wander the streets and pick up local products such as honey or handmade straw baskets.
Montecorto
Iโm claiming it – my favourite Pueblo Blanco in all of Andalusia (so far). This tiny little village is conveniently situated close to the popular Ronda and tantalisingly close to the edge of the Grazalema natural park yet feels totally undiscovered. It’s tiny but still packs some beautiful streets, a couple of local bars and a swimming pool.
Where to stay in Montecorto
I love Montecorto but I would be lying if I said that El Molino Abuelo had nothing to do with that. This sustainable family-run guesthouse is one of the most memorable places I have stayed in Spain and probably my favourite stop of my 10 day road trip in 2023. I stayed in the Celestine room; the comfy bed, spacious bathroom and the balcony view were just a few things that I loved about this special place. If that hasn’t sold you then look at the rooftop pool. Do yourself a favour and order the breakfast too. I loved it so much, I returned for another 2 nights in 2025, and it was just as wonderful.
Where to Eat + Drink in Montecorto
El Molino has a kitchen where you can prepare snacks to enjoy on the terrace. I spent an afternoon sipping wine and eating Iberian ham with those incredible views of the natural park.
Best Experiences in Montecorto
Montecorto itself doesn’t have any particular attractions but it does have an outdoor pool and is the start of a couple of hiking trails. Apart from this, pull up a chair at one of the local bars, soak up the sun and watch life go by. This little hidden gem is the perfect place to unwind and be still.
El Gastor
Another impossibly pretty Pueblo Blanco just begging to be walked around. I only spent a few hours one afternoon here and so donโt feel totally equipped to give you all the details but I will say itโs definitely worth a stop off and Iโll absolutely be staying for a night or two next time Iโm in the area. Let me know what you find!
Ronda is probably one of, if not the most popular Pueblo Blanco in Andalusia and one of Spain’s great white villages. In the summer months it can get very busy but crowds aside there is no denying the beauty of the town. Itโs well worth a visit, even more so if you can come outside of season.
Where to stay in Ronda
Catalonia Ronda 4 star hotel with huge outdoor pool (perfect for summer) with countryside views
This little gem was a complete accidental find when planning my drive between Estepona and Jerez. I walked up to the town from the bottom car park and what looked like an abandoned castle slowly morphed into a hidden Pueblo Blanco full of tiny streets and flower pots. There are some amazing rural stays inside the walls but you may have to book in advance to enjoy one.
Where to stay in Castillo de Castellar
Tugasa Casas is one of the only available stays in the castle walls. It’s such a unique location. The town is mostly set up for tourists so there isn’t loads to do there but it is undeniably pretty and I would definitely recommend staying a night.
Alternatively you could stay at the bottom of the hill in this hotel.
Where to Eat + Drink in Castillo de Castellar
I didn’t get a chance to try out any restaurants when I was here but there were a couple of lovely looking places including Peรฑa Flamenca.
Cรณmpeta
One of the biggest white towns in Axarquรญa. Just a 1 hour drive from Malaga. Cรณmpeta is a bustling town and a perfect place to base yourself while exploring this part of Andalusia. While you’re in town also check out Canillas da Albadia and teeny-tiny Archez.
Where to Stay in Cรณmpeta
For a budget friendly stay La Tienda has the cutest, unique apartments right in the centre
Casa Alegrรญa has some lovely rooms with traditional baths
If you have a car and want some peace and quiet in the countryside (and a private pool) I highly and personally recommend Finca Flor, 20 mins from Cรณmpeta
Cรณmpeta Best Experiences
Sit under the Parroquia Nuestra Seรฑora de la Asunciรณn at sunset
afternoon drinks in Plaza Almijara
Noche del Vino
On 15th August every year the town comes alive with live music and wine for the wine festival. If you’re in the area – do not miss it! Book accommodation in advance and get ready to party.
Andalusia Travel Map
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
This Pueblo Blanco was recommended to me by a friend. Iznajรกr is perched high upon a hill, overlooking a massive blue river (complete with beach) and full of very authentic tapas bars and restaurants. You can reach Iznรกjar in just 1 hour 15 from Cรณrdoba, and it sits just below Parque natural de las Sierras Subbรฉticas.
Where to stay in Iznรกjar
I spent two nights in Villa Moana just a few minutes walk from the famous blue potted streets and the guesthouse is up there with my Andalusian favourite stays. A huge delicious breakfast is included and if you happening to be traveling solo the private patio with the single room is a lovely bonus addition to your room.
Best Experiences in Iznรกjar
Patio De Las Comedias is the most photographed street in town and definitely worth a wander. It’s impossible not to feel uplifted by the bright colours. Walk up to this miradouro for sunset and then order a few drinks (with free tapas) at the best bar in town – the open air theatre.
Zuheros
Just an hour away from Cรณrdoba Zuheros sits on the edge of Parque natural de las Sierras Subbรฉticas and is the start to some great hiking trails. The compact size of Zuheros doesnโt take away from the charm of this little known Pueblo Blanco.
Wander the village before setting off on and easy 2.4km hike.
Comares
At 739m above sea level Comares is one of the highest pueblo blancos in the Mรกlaga province. Itโs known as the balcony of Axarquรญa and lives up to that name with expansive views across Andalusia. The town is small but well organised and feels like a nice mix of tourism and local life. I definitely recommend staying a night or two here and enjoying the pretty village and the spectacular sunset.
Where to stay in Comares
If you are traveling solo or as a couple I can definitely recommend to stay at book Castillo Suite 15. The one bedroom house has a spacious living area, comfortable bed, great shower and small balcony overlooking the whole of Comares. The best part are the benches in front of the house that invite you to drink a glass of wine like the locals. This was my favourite stay during my 2025 trip and one of my all time favourites in the region. I would happily go back and stay for a week, using the house as a base to explore.
Where to eat in Comares
Verde Oliva restaurant This is the most popular restaurants in town although it was almost empty when I went for lunch during July, it has the best view and vibe of any establishment in town. Verde Olive has a breezy terrace and cosy indoor seating so regardless of the time of year you can enjoy eating here.. I wasnโt wowed by the food but maybe I was unlucky because they receive consistently great reviews.
The other bars in town are what I would descibe as Spanglish, frequented by a mix of local spanish and British expats. If you don’t mind driving here are some fantastic restaurants on the outskirts of Comares including El Niรฑo which my host assured me is very typical and sometimes people even show up on horses.
Best Experiences in Comares
Walk a loop of the town (about 1km) by following the ceramic foot prints. The path takes you down the most interesting streets along the way past plaques where you can learn about the history of the town (in Spanish). Venture up to and past the castle and you will find the cemetery which has the best views of the whole town. Don’t forget to pick up fresh wood-fired bread from the traditional bakery Panaderรญa รngela Padilla in the morning.
Canillas de Aceituno
Canillas de Aceituno is the opposite of a hidden village, it sits prominently on the south side of La Maroma, Malagas highest peak. The typical pueblo blanco sparkles effotlessly in the sun and invites you to drive the windy roads up to the entrance of town.
Like Frigiliana, this pueblo is popular with British and Dutch expats. I was surprised to hear a lot of English in the bars, but it is obvious there are still native locals living and working in the the town too.
Where to stay in Canillas de Aceituno
I stayed in a guesthouse called Encanto which is in a great location and has great reviews. Sadly I was unlucky and didn’t have the best experience. The pool area and pool itself was very dirty when I arrived and the building in general is tired, a lot of dust on the balconies and blinds not working. However, the hosts were very responsive and friendly. They cleaned the pool immediately on notification. I pride myself on sharing honest reviews of places I have personally stayed in Andalusia and I share my favourite places on my Andalusia Accommodation Guide. It is really important to share true experiences but equally, one negative stay doesn’t mean every stay in the same place will be like that. Use my personal experiences to guide you, but let yourself make the final decision.
Where to Eat in Canillas de Aceituno
A treat I was not expecting in Canillas was an artisan bakery. Soyuco bakeryโฆwow! If you are a pastry fan definitely pick up a couple of almond croissants to pair with your morning cafรฉ.
Best Experiences in Canillas de Aceituno
A reason to stay in Canillas de Aceituno is the direct access to several hiking trails including the long trail to La Maroma. The longest route is the 22km out and back (8-10 hours) which you can access direct from the town (follow the signs). It is also possible to do a moonlit hike and sleep at the top (so cool!); this has now been added to my Andalusia bucket list.
You also have the El Saltillo suspension bridge nearby.
Trรฉvelez
One of the highest white villages in Andalusia and located in the stunning Alpujarras. Trรฉvelez has three parts, Bairro Bajo, Medio and Alto. Trรฉvelez is one of my favourite pueblos blancos.
Where to Stay in Trรฉvelez
I found a traditional 3 bedroom cottage in the alta town which was exceptionally good value. Air bnb link here.
Trรฉvelez Best Experiences
Eat jamon
Swim in the river pools (in summer)
Stroll the Bairro Medio in search of hidden terraces
How to Travel Around Andalusia
The best way to travel around Andalusia is by car. Without your own wheels you are limited to public transport (of which there is very little outside of the cities) or guided tours which remove the freedom and flexibility to discover the region at your own pace. You don’t have to search far on my website to see I’m a huge road trip advocate. If you really want to make the most of Andalusia and get up close and personal with the many Pueblos Blancos the region has to offer bring a car or hire one.
โ ๏ธ DO NOT USE CENTAURO. They are the sneakiest of all rental companies and have several ways to scam you.
I always use Zest to help me find a hire car in Portugal, Spain and Italy. After one too many bad experiences with providers when I found Zest I finally took a sigh of relief. I mention them in my guides a lot because they really have taken me on driving adventures all over Europe.
I really enjoyed writing this guide on the best Pueblos Blancos in Andalusia but not as much as I enjoyed visiting them. I hope this can help get you started on which Pueblos Blancos to add to your Andalusia Itinerary.
Looking for a more in-depth travel plan and fully personalised itinerary? Have lots of ideas but need a local travel expert to check it over?
I have just returned from my 5th road trip through Andalusia, my longest to date. The latest 2 week mid-summer adventure took me on some of the country’s most breathtaking roads, through natural beauty and countless quaint pueblos blancos. I finally feel ready to share everything Iโve learned from driving around Spainโs second largest region. This guide can help you plan a road trip around Andalusia at any time of year but Iโve also included a section for those wanting to take on the heat of summer.
Sitting in the heat of the south, Andalusia is appropriately nicknamed โthe frying panโ of Spain. You can expect blue skies and warm weather year round but it isnโt just the agreeable weather that should make you want to book a trip to this region. Long stretches of beach meet tumbling down Pueblo Blancos and exotic cities fade into grand mountains and stunning natural parks. This region in particular lends itself to driving more than any other in Spain. When you get out of the cities and tourist hot spots itโs easy to find stretches of tarmac to call your own and youโll quickly find yourself oohing and aahing at Andalusiaโs natural beauty.
Where is Andalusia
Located at the bottom of mainland Spain. Itโs the 2nd largest region and boasts over 1000 km of coast. Andalusiaโs highest point is Mt. Mulhacen in the Sierra Nevada national park.
How to get to Andalusia
International airports include Seville, Granada and Malaga. The Spanish regions bordering Andalusia are Murcia, Extremedura and Castilla La Mancha. If youโre driving from Portugal there are several border crossings from Algarve and Alentejo. You can reach Andalusia from Morocco by boat using the Tangier – Tarifa crossing.
Where to Stay in Andalusia
Andalusia is an easy place to find accommodation to suit your needs and preferences. Whether you want city life, beach life or nature there are plenty of options. I’ve included a few options in the guide below but if you would like some personal recommendations of the best places to stay in Andalusia check out my accommodation guide too.
Planning a road trip to Andalusia? The best way to build you itinerary is to get everything in one place which is exactly why I created The Andalusia Travel Map. Whether you are right at the start of your trip planning or about to set off on your adventure this planning tool will make the process easy and fun.
Andalusia is the ultimate road trip destination thanks to the diversity of cities, towns, villages, natural parks and coast to explore. Outside of the bigger cities of Seville, Malaga and Granada, the roads are generally quiet and easy to navigate. All you need is a car, a rough plan and a sense of adventure and you are ready to road trip your way around this mesmerising region.
Best time of year to road trip in Andalusia
The short answer to this question is whenever you are able to. But to be able to make the most of the region and to do it comfortably I would recommend shoulder seasons May/June or September/October. Christmas and New Year are twinkly times to visit the bigger cities and the first few months of the year are great for Sierra Nevada if you’re hoping to hit the slopes. Many will tell you to avoid cities like Seville or to miss out Andalusia all together in the summer months because of the heat/crowds. However, having now completed two road trips in August Iโm going to go and say donโt let this stop you. Summer is an amazing time to visit the region; you just need to be prepared to make a few changes to how (and how quickly) you do things.
How to navigate Andalusia in summer
Summer is scorching hot in Andalusia and things work a little different at this time of year. Temperatures in the interior can reach mid 40โs and even the coast remains sweltering. The majority of shops, restaurants, bars etc close in the afternoons between 3pm-8pm. Most people sit down for dinner at 9/10pm at the earliest (kids included). The beach destinations such as Costa del Sol are at their peak busyness but in stark contrast much of the interior is sleepy and slow.
Summer road trips call for long afternoon siestas and early morning and late night experiences. Summer road trips do offer a chance to slow down, and experience everything deeper. While some towns and cities can be busier in summer (especially on the coast) this time of year is always when the locals go on holiday leaving many interior towns and villages quieter and calmer than you would expect. The beauty of road trips at this time of year is that the roads are almost entirely empty in the afternoon. As long as you are sensible and take it slow you can experience the beauty of southern Spain without another soul.
Top Tips
Do as the locals do
Do pull the shutters down/ Seek shade
Do embrace the power of an afternoon nap
Do your sightseeing before 11am
Do enjoy cold Salmorejo at every opportunity
Do wear lightweight clothing
Do drink plenty of fluids
Donโt overdo the alcohol
Donโt rush your itinerary
Donโt leave the house without water
Do listen to your body
Mondays/Tuesday closures
In most smaller towns and villages (and some larger ones too) shops, restaurants and attractions close on Monday and/or Tuesday. If you have the flexibility, stay in the larger cities (Seville, Granada etc) on these days where there will be more options open. Alternatively rent an apartment with a kitchen, stock up on some food from the market and create your own tapas evening. Sunday’s are also often a day of rest in many towns, villages and even cities. always check opening times/days before arriving, and take them with a pinch of salt.
Hiring a car in Andalusia is easy. To start with, work out where you will be arriving. The best cities to rent a car from are Seville, Malaga and Granada but there are many other locations across the region. It is possible to drop the car in a different location in the region (and indeed Spain) but be prepared to pay extra for this. I personally always use Zest for my car hire in Spain (and in Portugal and Italy) because they offer fully comp insurance as standard and the customer service is quick and friendly.
To use Zest enter your desired pick up and drop off location, dates and driverโs age. Then filter the list as you wish. Maybe you want an automatic? or a particular size or model of car? Once you have applied your filters youโll be shown a list of companies offering what you want. The price you see upfront is the price you pay, there are no sneaky extras added at checkout. Remember, most hire companies require a credit card and will want to put a hold on an amount (usually a few hundred euros). Don’t forget to bring one!
โ ๏ธ DO NOT USE CENTAURO. They are the sneakiest of all rental companies and have several ways to scam you.
Want to pick up from a different location ? Search here
Driving in Andalusia
If itโs your first time driving in Spain itโs natural to have some concerns or worries, especially if you are coming from outside of continental Europe, but donโt worry. Iโm here to tell you – driving in Andalusia is easy! Despite any rumours youโve heard about the Spanish (or Portuguese or Italians) being bad drivers I can assure you there are no more bad drivers here than in whichever country you are from. Iโve driven solo all over Europe and I have never had any major issues with navigating or โbadโ drivers. Believe me, if I can drive solo through mountain roads, natural parks and tiny villages, anyone can!
A few important pointersโฆ
In Spain (and the rest of continental Europe) we drive on the right hand side.
Automatic cars are not as common in Spain but there are still plenty of options available – search on Zest.
Some of the mountain roads are (obviously) windy but as long as you keep your eyes on the road (not your phone!) you wonโt have any problems.
The majority of roads are well paved but the more โoff the beaten pathโ you go the more likely you are to experience potholes or other small annoyances.
Avoid driving in Seville and Granada at rush hour. If you can, aim to arrive in the bigger cities early in the morning.
The toll road between Malaga and Marbella/Estepona can get very busy in the summer months.
When you get to the natural parks youโll want to stop at every corner because the scenery is just so beautiful. As tempting as it might be to just pull over and take a quick snap, donโt do it. Instead drive on until you find a waiting spot. There are a surprising amount of viewpoints in the natural parks and you wonโt have to drive far to find one.
Avoid driving through the โold townโ of any pueblo blanco you are visiting unless it is absolutely necessary. These narrow, often cobbled streets can be difficult to navigate if you donโt know the town, which means at best you end up frustrating the local people who are simply trying to get to work, or at worst getting yourself stuck (cringe). These streets are best admired on foot. The exception is if your guesthouse/hotel has given you exact instructions to get you to where you need to go. If you do find yourself needing to drive through the smaller villages, aim to do it outside of the busy times of day.
Donโt be afraid of taking the smaller roads outside of the pueblos. Some of my best adventures have been when I’ve switched off motorways on GoogleMaps. Set aside some extra time driving between destinations and see what you can find.
Do leave time for โgetting lostโ. Part of the joy of road trips is the freedom it gives you to discover the wonders of the world you canโt reach with public transport. If you plan every hour of every day youโll no doubt miss out on some of the best of the country. Andalusia has an abundance of hidden gems, go find them!
As soon as you get off the motorway in Andalusia (and sometimes even on the motorway) you’ll find yourself surrounded by gorgeous views for miles and miles. There are so many stretches of road to enjoy through out the region but some there are some in particular that are definitely worth including in your road trip itinerary (note that some of these are not suitable for motorhomes or larger vans).
A-372 between El Bosque and Grazalema
CA-P-5131 Between Castellar de la Frontera and Castillo de Castellar
MA-5043 + MA-4401 Between El Chorro and Valle de Abdalajรญs
What to Pack For Your Road Trip in Andalusia
This largely depends on what you plan on doing but there are a few basics not to forget.
Good driving shoes/sneakers. Flip flops and sandals do not make great driving shoes so make sure you have a pair of comfortable sneakers.
Water. Itโs unlikely youโre going to break down but just in case you should always have some water and snacks in the car. This is really important in summer when temperatures can be very high, even waiting 20 minutes for a pick up truck can be exhausting. Keep a few big bottles of water in the boot just in case.
GoogleMaps. If youโre hiring a car you may already have sat nav included but if not, I use GoogleMaps on your phone or bluetooth to navigate. This app is one of my most used travel apps. I pin everything I want to visit so that when Iโm travelling around I can see whatโs closeby.
An actual map. I know itโs 2023 and we can do literally everything on our phone but sometimes you canโt beat an old school map. In some more remote places there is no phone signal so itโs great to have a back up.
Cigarette car charger/ phone charging cables. To keep you connected.
Swimwear. If youโre travelling in the summer months youโll find outdoor pools in most cities and large towns, sometimes in villages too. Not to mention the lakes, rivers and ocean. There are lots of opportunities to cool down so donโt leave home without some swimming gear.
A tent/ camping gear. If you are absolutely sure you wonโt be camping then there is obviously no need to do this. However if you are open to camping, stick a small tent and sleeping bag in the back. You never know what quirky campsite or wild camping spot you may find. Remember wild camping is illegal. If you do choose to stay somewhere, make sure you are not on someone’s property, and you must arrive late, leave early and take everything with you. Most importantly – no fires! Respect this beautiful landscape and the people and wildlife that call it home.
Toll Roads and Parking in Andalusia
The majority of Andalusia is toll-free however there are a few you should be aware of. Toll roads are classed as AP rather than just A. The toll roads are located on the Costa del Sol between Malaga and Marbella, Marbella and Estepona and Estepona to Soto Grande. This stretch of motorway is one of the busiest in summer. You can find out more here.
Parking availability varies widely. In big cities such as Seville and Granada it is not easy to find free parking but in smaller towns and villages you can often find free street parking. Something worth noting is many of the Pueblos have an old town and a new town. The old towns usually consist of very narrow streets and extremely limited parking. All these towns have paid and sometimes free parking areas outside of the old town. Do your research first.
There is an app called ParkEasy which can be used in many places in Europe including Spain. However the extra charge for using this often outweighs the efficiency of it.
Andalusia Road Trip Itinerary
The freedom that comes with a set of wheels and the open road ahead of you is unrivalled. There is no need to follow a set itinerary in Andalusia if you donโt want to. You can simply set off on an adventure and see what you find. Of course, it helps to have a few destinations in mind so you can make the most of the region. During peak season some accommodation in these cities and towns can fill up so you may choose to book these places in advance if possible. While I enjoy the spontaneity that comes with road trips and travel in general Iโm a planner by heart (and by job!) so as always many, many hours of research goes into my trips. Iโve visited each and everyone of the destinations mentioned in this itinerary and guide.
For a deeper dive into the best and most authentic pueblos to add to your Andalusia itinerary cruise on over to…
In the meantime here are a few must-visit stops to add to your Andalusia Road Trip Itinerary
Seville
An obvious destination and a great choice to start your Andalusia road trip. Sizzling Seville, one of the sunniest and warmest cities in Europe; home to moorish history galore, authentic flamenco and far too much amazing cheese. This is also a great place to pick up a hire car and start your journey from west to east. Parking in Seville is not so easy, so if youโre picking up your hire car in Seville, wait until youโre ready to move on to the next destination.
Seville Where to Stay >> For a budget stay with possibly the best rooftop terrace in the city check in to Pension Perez Montilla I stayed here during a very quick stop off and although basic, the room was super comfortable.
Staying a few days? I would grab an apartment and make the most of having your own space to rest in the city. Casa Triana 1888 has 2 apartments both with terraces and a pool. Free airport taxi too!
If you’re wanting to splurge then definitely pick Hotel Casa Palacio Don Ramรณn or Nobu Sevilla. They beat the usual chain hotels by a mile and they feel like an absolute treat.
Seville Eats + Drinks >> Share some plates of jamon at the oldest tapas restaurant in Seville El Rinconcillo, enjoy Spanish omelette with whiskey sauce at Carmela, or see what awaits you on the menu at my personal favourite is La Teresas.
Seville Experiences >>
Book a tapas and taverns tour with Spain experts Devour. Or get pinning GoogleMaps and plan your own tapas crawl.
Visit the grand and exotic Real Alcรกzar. Undeniably magical.
Hire an electric bike and ride to Plaza da Espaรฑa at sunrise before the crowds. Top Tip – If youโre just hopping from place to place for 5 minutes use the Bolt bikes/scooters but if you want to use for the whole day hire with a company directly as itโs much cheaper.
Cรณrdoba
I spent a week in Cรณrdoba mid-summer and fell a little bit in love with the city. In no way as grand or spectacular as neighbouring Seville but thatโs what I love about it, it has an understated and calmer magic about it. After my week in an apartment in Cรณrdoba I wrote a travel guide about it.
Get up early and admire the Alcazรกr de los Reyes Cristianos gardens.
Cadiz
A refreshing break from the interior, the (almost) island of Cadiz manages to squeeze grand architecture, delicious street food and beaches in a shoebox sized city. Plenty of reasons to add this impressive destination to your road trip itinerary. Parking isnโt easy in Cadiz. I recommend leaving your car in Jerez de la Frontera and taking the train in or staying in in El Puerto Santa Maria and catching the ferry.
Cadiz Where to Stay >> I have yet to stay in Cadiz itself and after much research I am yet to be inspired by the accommodation options in the city. However here are a few options to contemplate…
Cadiz Eats + Drinks >> When in Cadiz, eat fried seafood, and there is no better place than Freiduria Marisquerรญa Las Flores. Whatever you do don’t leave without churros con chocolate at cafe bar La Marina.
One of the biggest and more well known Pueblo Blancos in Andalusia, Arcos is a must-visit stop to add to your road trip itinerary. Arcos is a well organised town and despite the jumble of streets youโll find your way round in no time.
Top Tip: Donโt try and drive to the old town. The streets are extremely narrow. Keep these streets for the locals. There is free street parking just before you reach the old town, although this can get busy. Alternatively you can use the underground parking.
Arcos de la Frontera Where to Stay >> I enjoyed a stay at the oasis of calm that is La Casa Grande. Located in the heart of Arcos with a terrace overlooking the Basรญlica de Santa Marรญa de la Asunciรณn. Each room has unique features. I will 100% stay again!
Arcos de la Frontera Eats + Drinks >>
These two restaurants opposite each other are the best places to eat and drink in the centre of it all. I had the best Salmorejo Iโve ever eaten at Taberna Jรณvenes Flamencos and enjoyed last night garlic prawns at neighbouring La Cรกrcel.
Pull up a stool on this corner bar and count how many cars pass with scratches above the wheel arch from the exact bar stool youโre sitting on.
Arcos de la Frontera Experiences >>
Rise and shine and wander the streets at dawn
Donโt leave without buying convent cookies from the nuns at Comunidad de Mercedarias Descalzas. Enter the convent and ring the bell. Youโll then place your order to a clouded screen and wait for the turnstile to deliver your sweet treats.
Jerez de la Frontera
Just an hour away from Seville, Cadiz and Arcos de la Frontera Jerez is in a fabulous location for exploring. Many people just stop off her for a sherry tour and then move on to the next destination but it is definitely worth a day or two of your time. I really loved the grittier vibe of of Jerez compared to Andalusias’s sparkly crown jewel Seville.
On my short visit I stumbled across (the very popular) Las Banderillas and instantly fell in love with the buzzy atmosphere. Next door is Tabanco San Pablo which was closed when I was there (Monday afternoon) but also looks like a great stop off. At night head to the twinkly Calle Pescaderรญa Vieja for evening drinks and dishes.
Jerez de la Frontera Experiences >>
Sherry tasting is the number one activity in Jerez. I can’t personally recommend a tasting but I’ve heard good things about Gonzalez Byass (Tio Pepe)
Ronda
One of, if not the most popular Pueblo Blanco in Andalusia. Ronda has all the expected downfalls of a tourism heavy town but there is absolutely no denying the views here are spectacularly astonishing. I recommend visiting outside of the summer months to be able to wander without the crowds.
Ronda Where to Stay >>
La Colegiata Small 1 bedroom apartment with the cutest terrace. Great for a couple.
Hotel Montelirio Gorgeous 4 star hotel with the best view in Ronda
Catalonia Ronda 4 star hotel with huge outdoor pool (perfect for summer) with countryside views
For an alternative stay 25 minutes outside of Ronda stay in the sustainable and totally peaceful El Molino del Abuelo in hidden gem Montecorto.
Ronda Experiences >>
Wine tasting at one of the many wineries close by.
Go for a refreshing swim in Cuevo del Gato cave and pool
Zahara de la Sierra
All roads leading to Zahara de la Sierra are nothing short of spectacular. The lake appears out of the muted rural scenery like an azure mirage. The town itself is small but has great parking on the outskirts and is easy to navigate. Zahara is satisfyingly close to several amazing pueblo blancos including Grazalema, El Gastor, and my favourite( and almost unheard of Montecorto). All featured in my travel guideโฆ
I accidentally found Grazalema while driving between Ronda and Zahara de la Sierra back in 2022. I went back the following year to confirm it is still some of the best driving Iโve experienced in all of Europe. The natural park is strikingly beautiful and worth at least a few days of your time.
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park Where to Stay >>
My search took me through many, many large houses for rent which would be great for a large group but If you’re a couple or solo check out Casa Rural la Parra.
Wander the streets and shop for handmade clothes and artisan produce.
If youโre here in the summer, pay only 1Euro to use the jaw dropping municipal swimming pool in the centre of Grazalema. The views will blow your mind.
Enjoy one of several hikes through some of Spainโs best natural scenery.
Wander the colourful streets in search of tapas and cute shops with traditional products like handmade baskets and local honey
El Chorro
A hikerโs dream El Chorro not only looks spectacular but offers breathtaking trails too.
Hike the famous Caminito del Rey or the Pico Huma route aka The Balcony of Andalusia.
Granada
Smaller, more gritter city compared to Seville and home to the famous Alhambra. Based at the foot of Sierra Nevada it makes a great base for some mountain adventures. Roam the streets here and welcome to โfree tapas with every drinkโ land.
Granada Where to Stay >>
Granada Eats + Drinks >>
Granada is notoriously hard to find great food as there are so many touristy spots. However with a lot of research and help from my host i found some fantastic places to grab a bite
La Telefรณnica a little more expensive than other places but miles and miles better quality, totally delicious. Recommend the burrata.
Bodegas Castaรฑeda – cosy, traditional bodega in the tourist centre with some tasty tapas dishes
La Lirio Come here for an apertivo before dinner. It’s good value and next to the river.
Sierra Nevada
The highest mountain range in mainland Spain, Sierra Nevada takes you to new heights. In the summer months you can hike and mountain bike but in my opinion the best time to travel to these mountains is the snow season.
Sierra Nevada Where to Stay >>
If you’re here for the snow this apartment is in the centre of it all with insane views.
One of the highest towns in Andalusia and located in the stunning Alpujarras. Trรฉvelez has three parts, Bairro Bajo, Medio and Alto.
Trรฉvelez Where to Stay >>
I found a traditional 3 bedroom cottage in the alta town which was exceptionally good value. Air bnb link here.
Trรฉvelez Experiences >>
Eat jamon
Swim in the river pools (in summer)
Stroll the Bairro Medio in search of hidden terraces
Cรณmpeta
One of the more traditional white towns in Axarquรญa. Only a 1 hour drive (but a world away) from Malaga. Cรณmpeta has heaps of character and is one of those places you could easily spend a few days. A great places to base yourself and explore nearby Canillas da Albadia and tiny Archez.
Cรณmpeta Where to Stay >>
Cรณmpeta is full to the brim with accommodation options
For a budget friendly stay La Tienda has the cutest, unique apartments right in the centre
Casa Alegrรญa has some lovely rooms with traditional baths
If you have a car and want some peace and quiet in the countryside (and a private pool) I highly and personally recommend Finca Flor, 20 mins from Cรณmpeta
Cรณmpeta Experiences >>
Sit under the Parroquia Nuestra Seรฑora de la Asunciรณn at sunset
afternoon drinks in Plaza Almijara
Noche del Vino – if you happen to be in Andalusia in August book to stay in Cรณmpeta for the 15th August for one of the most fun festas in the region.
There you have it, a run down of a few must-visit Andalusia gems to add to your road trip itinerary. Definitely donโt stop here though. Donโt forget to read my BEST PUEBLOS BLANCOS GUIDE for some extras to add. And as always, donโt make this an exhaustive list; get out there, scour the map and see what other experiences you can find while on your road trip in Andalusia.
What to eat and drink in Andalusia
Andalusia has some truly tasty cuisine with plenty of regional dishes and treats to try. Here are just a few you should add to your road trip foodie wish list.
Salmorejo A cold tomato soup (thicker than gazpacho) served with egg and ham. Traditionally from Cรณrdoba Jamon Ibรฉrico Iberian ham, need I say more? Best place to eat this delight? Trรฉvelez! Berenjenas con Miel Hot, fried eggplant served with honey. My favourite plate of this was served up in Cรณrdoba. Solomillo al Whisky Pork tenderloin in whiskey sauce from Seville. Cazon en Adobo Fried Cazon fish. One of my go to tapa dishes with wine in Andalusia. Tinto de Verano What the locals drink in summer. Cold red wine (usually Tempranillo) with soda water, sometimes with lemon. Order this instead of sangria! Fino Dry, delicate sherry.
The majority of hotels, shops and restaurants in the bigger cities accept card but some smaller places only accept cash or non-foreign cards. Always carry some cash with you. ATM’s are easy to find all over the town. Unless you already have a Euro currency bank account I highly recommend getting a Wise Card. This will allow you to hold and exchange multiple currencies at the best possible rate. There is no charge for withdrawing or using your card to pay. Iโve been living in Portugal since 2016 and I use Wise as my primary bank card here despite also having a Portuguese bank account. I’ve also used Wise to pay and withdraw money in Spain and Italy.
Top tip: Avoid Multi Currency machines such as ‘Euronet’ (usually set up outside souvenir shops etc) as they charge you 3 or 4 euro to withdraw. Look for ‘Multibanco’ machines to withdraw money. More info here…
Iโve spent more than half my life curating trips for myself around the world, more recently those trips have been deep adventures (mostly by car) in Portugal, Spain and Italy. If you want to plan a memorable trip but donโt know where to start, I can help. Just get in touch and together weโll make a road trip to remember.
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but you are overwhelmed, make use of my local knowledge and travel planning experience. Choose a one hour call to get you off the ground or add on full personalised itinerary for a stress-free trip planned by a local travel expert.
You heard it here first. Cรณrdoba is one of the most underrated cities in Spain. While tourists flock to Seville, many miss out on Cรณrdoba completely, and in my (humble) opinion this is a big mistake. The city is smaller and more manageable to explore but it is also quieter which makes time here feel a little less rushed and more meaningful.
If youโd like a mix of history, sightseeing with some relaxation thrown in but are not looking for a beach holiday then Cรณrdoba could be perfect for you. The city is steeped in history, adorned with moorish architecture and bustling with restaurants and bars, not to mention the memorable cultural experiences to dive into (hola, rooftop flamenco).
If I haven’t convinced you already, read on and find out more about this city by someone who has spent real time getting to the know it over the years, and not just passing through. I’ve spent several weeks in Cรณrdoba over recent years and I’ve been updating this guide with all my favourite finds.
Visiting Cรณrdoba as part of a bigger trip in Andalusia?
Cรณrdoba is a great addition to an Andalusรญa or Seville trip but it also makes a fantastic base if you prefer something quieter compared to Seville. It is easy to get to and navigate around. It has lots to marvel at and also a friendlier and more relaxed vibe than I’ve experienced in other Spanish cities.
Getting to/ from/ around Cรณrdoba
Cรณrdoba is well served in terms of transport. It doesn’t have an international airport but it is less that 1h30 from Seville airport and 1h45 from Malaga. It also has a train station and bus station connecting you to the major cities and some smaller towns. The city is easy to walk around, and very flat – a bonus on those hot days!
Flights to Cรณrdoba
The closest international airports to Cรณrdoba are Seville (1.5 hours) and Malaga (1 hour 45). Check SkyScanner for to find your closest airport and check prices.
Train to Cรณrdoba
Cรณrdoba is connected to much of the country via train including Seville, Malaga, Ronda and even Madrid. I usually use Trainline to narrow down trains and buses from location to location and that’s how I found my route this time. You can also book direct with Renfe. The main train station is1.7km away from the city centre.
Car Rental in Cรณrdoba
If you are just staying in Cรณrdoba for a few days you donโt really need a car. However if you are staying longer or you are taking the trip from Seville I would consider hiring a car to make the most out of whatโs around. Iโm a huge fan of road trips because of the freedom it gives you. If you are visiting Spain’s magical pueblos blancos, you need a car. One place not to miss which can only really be reached by car is Zuheros. Believe me itโs worth the hire price! I usually rent using Zest and all my Portugal, Spain and Italy trips have been done using them. Their insurance is full comp and excellent and fuss free, plus they have great customer service too. They donโt work within Cรณrdoba but there are loads of options in Seville through them. I had a negative experience with Centauro in Palma so I don’t personally recommend using them.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
When to visit Cรณrdoba
Like much of Southern Europe temperatures can get kinda crazy in the middle of summer so shoulder season (May, June, September, October) would be a great time to visit Cรณrdoba. I am one of those strange people that likes going in the mad-heat of summer because it forces me to slow down. If you do find yourself there in the middle of summer, expect siesta hours in the afternoon. Almost everything will be closed between 3-7pm and then the city comes back alive again in the evenings. The post-siesta glow up is real.
You may want to write off Cรณrdoba as a summer destination but as someone who has visited multiple times in July and August stick with me a second.
โHold on Candyโ, you might be thinking. “In the middle of summer it is stifling in interior Andalusia isnโt it?” You are correct, it is one of the hottest parts of Spain during July and August. I get it, it is so hot here during the summer months, it can be unbearable if you are wanting to rush around to see and do everything. The heat makes it hard to maximise sightseeing time because those middle hours of the day can be uncomfortable doing much else other than resting or sipping on tinto de verano; and this is exactly why it is a great time to visit.
Less crowds allow you to enjoy the sites with less people and the heat actually gives you chance to slow down and soak it all in. Cรณrdoba has some fantastic hotels and spas offering you a unique chance to have a cultural holiday mixed with a relaxing one.
Where to stay in Cรณrdoba
There are plenty of options for places to stay in Cรณrdoba including mega fancy hotels, budget dorm rooms and lovely apartments.
During my first trip, I loved the apartment I stayed. The two bedroom, spacious apartment overlooks a small plaza and was only a 10-15minute walk away from all the main attractions. It has air-con, a powerful shower, fully fitted kitchen and super comfy bed. I would 100% stay again.
I’ve built up months of travel time in Andalusia, and I always get asked where I stayed so I made a guide specifically for that. I update this every year so it’s turning into quite the guide!
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
An obvious โnot to missโ attraction in Cรณrdoba is the Mezquita de Cรณrdoba – a spectacular mosque turned cathedral. I did climb the tower for the view (see below) but chose not to do the Mezquita tour. However check out the Official Mezquita de Cรณrdoba website if you want to tick off the number 1 attraction to do in Cรณrdoba.
If you find yourself in Cรณrdoba in May look out for the flower festival, more on the event here.
With several trips to Cรณrdoba behind me I’m starting to get a real feel for what it has to offer as a city. These are the experiences I enjoyed the most during my time in this city and what I consider the best things to do in Cรณrdoba:
Watch a Live Flamenco Performance
Visit the colourful patios (not open during the peak summer months).
Visit one (or more) of Cรณrdoba’s 13 official historical taverns. Full list here.
Be an early bird at Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos
Best View of Cรณrdoba from the Mezquita tower
Puerta del Puente (Arc de Triumph) at sunset
Trinket Shopping
Rooftop Drinks at H10
Stand up Tortilla at Bar Santos
Watch a Live Flamenco Performance
Im no expert in Flamenco but I have watched countless shows over my years of travel around Andalusia. I love everything about this mesmerising culture. Watching the performerโs emotions unravel on stage gives me goosebumps, and I have more than a soft spot for Spanish guitar which is unbeatable live. Cรณrdoba has a special connection to flamenco and it is why you can find culturally rich experiences here. Start with a visit to Plaza de la Tendillas and wait 15 minutes to hear the clock strike a strum of flamenco guitar. Arrive on the hour for the longer one. Iโve seen tiny shows in caves, on terraces under the moon, and of course Iโve seen some of the big โtouristyโ shows too. In 2022 I watched my favourite ever Flamenco performance and that happened to be in Cรณrdoba. I loved it so much it was the number 1 reason I came back to the city in 2025.
If you are traveling to Cรณrdoba in June, July, August or September then do not miss out on a night of Flamenco en la Terrazza. During the summer (June until September) there are shows every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. It starts at 10pm but arrive early as there are limited seats. Entry is free until capacity. This is an absolute gem that most non-locals don’t know about. See the full program here.
If youโre not here for Flamenco en la Terrazza then see the schedule at Fosforito Flamenco Centre which also puts on flamenco shows in the summer. The centre also has a flamenco museum.
Another worthy show is the Baรฑos รrabes de Santa Maria. This show is set up for tourists but the intimate show is beautiful and you canโt help but get swept up in the performance when youโre this close. There is a minimum spend of โฌ20 and wth that you can watch the show for free. The food was genuinely very good.
Heading to Seville too? Then definitely book the Seville Tapas & Flamenco Tour for an authentic evening of food and Flamenco.
Early bird at Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos
Flamenco aside this was my favourite activity in Cรณrdoba. Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos is a medieval palace with expansive gardens. Entry is only โฌ5. The colours and light are just beautiful first thing in the morning so book an early ticket on the official website.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
Rooftop Drinks at H10
There is no shortage of outdoor drinking spots in Cรณrdoba and lots with a lovely view too, but nothing quite compares to the rooftop at the H10 Palacio Colomera hotel. This is the perfect place to unwind after a day of sightseeing. The space is really well thought out and comfortable to spend an hour or two before dinner. The view over Plaza de la Tendillas is wonderful.
Tortilla at Bar Santos
This tiny bar, right next to the Mezquita is famous for one thing and one thing only – tortilla. Supposedly the best tortilla in Cรณrdoba can be found at Bar Santos but to be honest for me it was all about the experience or cramming in the little bar and eating a tortilla right off the counter. It’s a fun experience and a super cheap lunch!
Puerta del Puente (Arc de Triumph) at sunset
The arch is the “gateway” between the grand Roman bridge and the city. You’ll find yourself passing through this area many times as you weave in and out of the city but if you come at dusk, hang around for a little while. It’s a magical place to watch the sunset colours above.
Trinket Shopping
Iโm not usually one to include souvenirs in my guides because most places tend to sell a load of crap made in china with the appropriate city/ region/ country written on it. Cรณrdoba is no different, you can find all the usual souvenir suspects. However there are also some lovely boutique style shops selling jewellery and clothing, plus some ceramics too. I thought the jewellery in particular was unique and I bought myself a ring to remind myself of my week in Cรณrdoba. I didnโt write down any names of the shops but wander the streets leading away from the Mezquita and you can’t go wrong. A few shops to add to your itinerary:
Cรณrdobas great view is from the Mezquita bell tower. Tickets are only โฌ3 and can be bought here. I’ve said it many times, but the earlier you go the quieter it’ll be!
Restaurants to visit in Cรณrdoba
As with every European city there are dozens of cafes, bars and restaurants to choose from which is overwhelming when you only have a short time. I find reviews can only be so helpful as a lot of it comes down to personal preference which only makes seeking out the โbestโ spots even harder.
Bar La Cavea Great local spot shaded by palm trees. Try the berenjenas con miel (eggplant and honey).
Paseo Ibรฉrico Traditional dishes away from the main tourist centre, close to train station
Cรณrdoba has the full range of restaurant types and I eat and drank at a mix of places I found online and places I just happened to stumble upon.
I have to admit nothing blew me away food wise while I was in Cรณrdoba(apart from the churros, but maybe because I was comparing to Seville which is off the scale delicious for foodies. But thatโs not to say I didnโt have some great food and drink experiences while staying in the city. There are several dishes and drinks you must try in Cรณrdoba. Iโll share them below and tell you where to find them.
Heading to Seville? There are so many amazing restaurants, maybe too many?
This cold tomato, garlic, bread and olive oil soup is specifically from Cรณrdoba and is gazpachoโs creamier cousin. Typically served cold and topped with Serrano ham and boiled egg. I enjoyed my afternoon bowl of Salmorejo at Taverna El Porto, tapa style. You can get Salmorejo all over the city at various prices but in my opinion the cheap version is the most authentic way to eat it.
Churros con chocolate
Now here is something I can rave about. The churros con chocolate at Don Pepeโs are insane. Fresh, crispy churros and hot, thick chocolate I am still dreaming about now. Top tip, churros are typically a breakfast food and thatโs when locals eat them. I literally got shooed away from a cafe when I tried to order them at 2pm.
Tinto de Verano
Did you know the Spanish don’t really drink sangria? What they do drink (during the summer months) is Tinto de Verano which is a staple during the hottest time of year in Andalusia. Tinto de verano is made of cheap (but still good) red wine (often tempranillo) and soda water or lemonade. I feel that over the years of travel in Andalusia during the hottest months I have come somewhat of an expert in Tinto de verano. The best version is made with La Casera mixer, and I won’t let anyone tell me otherwise. You can find it in every bar without exception during the summer but try to ask for it made fresh rather than out of a bottle or can which some bars try to get away with.
Fino
Make no doubt about it, I am a wine lover. Iโve spent lots of my travels on wine tasting missions, but Iโm still not totally sold on fino. However fino is fairly local so you should definitely sip a glass or two while in Cรณrdoba.
Berenjenas Con Miel (fried eggplant with honey)
I believe you can get good versions of this all over the city but please order them at Bar La Cavea because it the setting is gorgeous and there is a really chilled out vibe. When I visited I shared the patio with a mix of locals and tourists.
Tostada con tomate y azeite
Literally any cafe all over the city. For a cheap and cheerful version head to Plaza Correda.
Another restaurant worth mentioning is Horno San Luis. I found it was a slightly overpriced but worth it because it has a really fantastic rooftop and good vibes. I went for dinner but if I were to go again I would go for a sunset cocktail instead.
Best bars Cรณrdoba
There are plenty of places to grab a cerveza or tinto de verano. These were my favourite hang outs.
Tendido 7 El Puerto In amongst the busiest plaza in Cรณrdoba (Plaza de las Tendillas) this bar served up the perfect selection of tapas and cold beers to match. Great afternoon spot with super cheap tapas.
El Baron I found this bar by accident when I made the mistake of venturing outside at 4pm in August heat. It was 42c and El Baron appeared like a mirage. I caught a glimpse of the Salmorejo and it looked excellent!
Taberna La Chiquita de Quini Slightly too “touristy” for me, however there is no denying the patio is a beautiful place to have a drink or two. It’s cool and a welcome break from the busier bars on the main drag.
Horno San Luis As mentioned above this restaurant is also a cocktail bar and has a unique rooftop view and neon pink lighting.
Jugo Vinos Vivos Wine bar with tastings (closed in July and August)
Finding good coffee in Cรณrdoba
During my first trip to Cรณrdoba in 2022, I struggled to find speciality coffee. The only place that existed then was The Club on the other side of the river. The brunch and burger bar has great coffee and all the standard hipster breakfast options. Since then it seems, like every European city, the speciality coffee scene has opened up and there are now several options in the city. After my most recent visit can personally recommend Arรกbiga, The Coffee Club or C Coffee. But please, don’t replace the traditional coffee bars that exist with these. We will all miss the local experience, if it disappears. There is space for both in your itinerary!
Of course standard coffee is everywhere, and I very much enjoy my morning cafe con leche served in a little glass in various patios around the city.
Best Plazas in Cรณrdoba
Cรณrdoba is home to so many plazas. From the teeny tiny ones to the huge ones, the one thing they all have in common is they are a great place to sit and watch the world go by, either on a bench with your thoughts or at a cafe with a drink in hand. The biggest is probably Plaza de las Tendillas which is busy from morning to evening but comes alive late night (after 10pm). Then you have the “famous” Plaza de la Corredera which is stunning to look at and the perfect spot to enjoy breakfast. Also check out Plaza de Jerรณnimo Pรกez which is unbelievably pretty. Don’t stop there though – go get lost and find your very own plaza! There are so many plazas to stumble upon.
Surrounding areas Cรณrdoba
Cรณrdoba is in a great location for visiting Seville which is why so many people do take the day trip. But it isnโt only Seville you can visit from this city. A car is the best to explore as you can venture to some of the pretty pueblos blancos south, but even without a car you have some options.
This Bus takes you to the interesting town of Montoro which is worht an afternoon. Make sure to visit the seashell house.
If you want to do some wine tasting in this part of Andalusia then go and discover the nearby Montilla wine route. There are also some cycling routes in Montilla if youโre looking for a more active holiday.
Money in Cรณrdoba
The majority of places accept card even for small amounts but to be on the safe side itโs always best to carry a bit of cash for those smaller purchases. Unless you already have a Euro bank account I highly recommend getting a Wise Card. This will allow you to hold and exchange multiple currencies at the best possible rate. There is no charge for withdrawing or using your card to pay. Iโve been living in Portugal since 2016 and I use Wise as my primary bank card here.
Top tip: Avoid Multi Currency machines (usually set up outside souvenir shops etc) as they charge you 3 or 4 euro to withdraw. Always use actual bank ATMโs to withdraw money.
So there you have it, a complete guide to Cรณrdoba, Spain. I hope my weeks of wandering this gem of an Andalusian city help you build the perfect trip to Cรณrdoba. Happy planning!
Vejer de la Frontera was one of those places I had been wanting to visit for years and years but for some reason (despite several trips to Andalusia) it kept getting pushed to the bottom of the list. This month I was finally able to squeeze in a solo road trip to Cรกdiz and I made sure Vejer was a non-negotiable stop on my 48 hour itinerary. Youโll be pleased to know Vejer did not disappoint and I have since been coming up with a whole number of reasons why I should be returning to this magical town sooner rather than later. If you have holiday or travel plans in Cรกdiz, Seville or Malaga I absolutely recommend (at least) a day trip to Vejer de la Frontera.
Fun Fact: This travel guide is one of my originals, written in 2018. I’ve since returned to Andalusia every year for Multi-week road trips and written more in-depth guides to help you plan a trip to Spain.
Located in the Province of Cรกdiz, south west Andalusia just 10km inland from the Costa de la Luz.
HOW TO GET TO VEJER DE LA FRONTERA?
I highly recommend hiring a car while in Andalusia. It’s the best (and pretty much only) way to travel around the pueblos blancos. Vejer is a beautiful 50 minute drive from Cรกdiz, 1.5 hours from Gibraltar and approximately 2 hours from both Malaga and Seville airports. The hilltop town can also be reached by bus from Cรกdiz city which runs 5-7 times a day and takes approximately 1.5 hours.
WHERE TO STAY IN VEJER DE LA FRONTERA?
As I visited Vejer as part of a road trip I stayed an hour away in Puerto de Santa Maria but there a lots of options in the town itself. I spotted some cute and quirky apartments alongside some great guest houses and boutique hotels at BookingCom. There are plenty of different options in Vejer de la Frontera but to get the most out of staying look for accommodation close to the central square.
Andalusia Travel Map
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
Expect a busy yet delightful vibe at this small, beautiful square. Despite the many tourists snapping away there are still pockets of local life to be seen amongst the crowds – you only have to look for it. It is true what the guidebooks say it really is one of the most wonderful plazas in Spain.
TOP TIP : The Spanish are not known for being early birds. Arrive here first thing and youโll enjoy the picturesque scene in peace and quiet.
WEAVE IN + OUT OF THE CITY WALLS
Vejer is one of the funnest towns to walk around (as long as you donโt mind getting lost!). The old city walls blend into the surroundings so unless you are paying close attention is is impossible to tell if you are actually in or out. A series of arches and alleyways will lead you through impossibly white streets with unique views at every turn. Give yourself plenty of time to explore.
FIND YOUR OWN UNIQUE VIEW
There are some seriously impressive views in Vejer and believe me that white town backdrop never gets old. Whilst your exploring look out for secret terraces and tiny streets and you might just find the perfect picture!
With its close proximity to Morocco there is an obvious African influence across much of this region of Spain. Amongst the usual ramble of tourist souvenir shops Vejer has some spectacular hidden gems to be found including clothing, jewellery and homewares youโll definitely want a bigger suitcase for.
WHERE TO EAT + DRINK IN VEJER DE LA FRONTERA
I was pleasantly surprised at how wide a range of bars and restaurants there is in Vejer and the fact there is so many cool spots around every corner is the main reason I want to return and spend a few days. You can expect a mix of cute coffee shops with decent coffee, upmarket tapas restaurants, Moroccan cuisine and most importantly, an impressive number of local-experience bars. There is nothing I love more when traveling than stumbling upon a little bar or cafe filled with locals. It is usually in these spots you will get the most authentic experience of a place and Vejer has lots of these to discover.
TRAFALGAR TAPAS
What better way to enjoy the Plaza de Espaรฑa vibe than people watching with a tapa and an ice cold beer. Trafalgar has a prominent spot right on the square and has plenty of shady tables to enjoy a light lunch from. I choose the Pimientos asados con ventresca (Roasted peppers with red tuna belly) and Hummus de calabaza (Pumpkin hummus) and both were delicious, washed down with a Cruzcampo of course.
LA PICCOLINA
Just before you reach Plaza de Espaรฑa is the lovely La Piccolina with a sprinkling of outdoor seating and super friendly staff. As I arrived in the morning this was my first stop in Vejer and an alfresco coffee and granola was the perfect start to my day. La Piccolina is also open from 10am-4pm and again for dinner/drinks at 8pm.
EL CLAUSTRO
I accidentally found El Claustro as I was leaving town and I am so glad I did. The spacious garden restaurant is decorated in the perfect fusion of Andalusian and Moroccan and has the best views over Vejer from the chilled out terrace. I only stopped in for a coffee but I would 100% go back for food.
BAR MORILLO
A typical Spanish bar despite being located in a popular tourist area. With wooden stools on both sides of the road all you need to do is decide on whether you want to sip your beverage in the sun or the shade. Pop you head inside and youโll find locals enjoying a football game on tv or chatting over a beer in a dark but atmospheric den.
The majority of hotels, shops and restaurants in the bigger cities accept card but some smaller places only accept cash or non-foreign cards. Always carry some cash with you. ATM’s are easy to find all over the town. Unless you already have a Euro currency bank account I highly recommend getting a Wise Card. This will allow you to hold and exchange multiple currencies at the best possible rate. There is no charge for withdrawing or using your card to pay. Iโve been living in Portugal since 2016 and I use Wise as my primary bank card here despite also having a Portuguese bank account. I’ve also used Wise to pay and withdraw money in Spain and Italy.
Top tip: Avoid Multi Currency machines such as ‘Euronet’ (usually set up outside souvenir shops etc) as they charge you 3 or 4 euro to withdraw. Look for ‘Multibanco’ machines to withdraw money. More info here…
You know us by now. We love finding these places and writing guides for you to enjoy but donโt forget to venture off on your own too. There are literally dozens of streets to get lost in and a maze of sights and sounds to discover. Let us know what you find!
Have you visited Andalusia before? What were your highlights?
All photos taken by Candice Tomkins and are subject to copyright. Please e-mail us at hello@soi55lifestyle.com if you would like to use any of the images in this guide.
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