Situated right up in the northeast corner, Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro is Portugal’s most remote region. The region’s assets include swathes of natural park, preserved historical highlights, quirky traditions and the highest number of UNESCO sites in the whole of Portugal. Trás-os-Montes was also the very last of all the regions in Portugal I visited. I visited mid-February and it surprised me in the best way.
Has your interest been piqued? Keep on reading…
Planning a trip to Portugal? You’re in the right place! Welcome to Travel Planning and Itinerary design by Candy. Olá! I’m an independent travel advisor living in Portugal (since 2016). I help people plan their dream trip to Portugal, Spain and Italy. You’re currently reading a post from my collection of travel guides. I also offer personal travel consultation and a bespoke itinerary service.
Where is Trás-os-Montes?
Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro is a historical region of Portugal that is part of the statistical region Norte aka North Portugal. It is located in the very northeast of the country bordered by Minho to the west and Centro to the south.
Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro
The historical region encompasses two contrasting areas of the north. Douro Valley, particularly the area of Pinhão is a firm favourite for tourism thanks to its vine studded landscape and wine tasting experiences. As almost a contradiction, Tras-os-Montes is little known outside of Portugal and very few tourists make the journey to experience it.
Why Visit Trás-os-Montes
Trás-os-Montes is an ideal destination if you enjoy less crowds, less noise, less chaos, less fake, more nature, more conversation, more genuine.
While it’s true every region of Portugal has its own notable culture, this northeastern corner is particularly special and unique.
Like Minho, this region blends with Galicia in northern Spain and you’ll notice hints of Celtic roots everywhere. In this area of Portugal, more than ay other you’ll fine Spanish widely spoken in addition to Portuguese. In some places you can even find a unique dialect from Galicia.
The celebrations are rooted in paganism. The pottery is black. The nature is untouched. Everything is different.
When to Visit Trás-os-Montes
If you read any of my other region guides you’ll notice I usually suggest the shoulder season as a prime time to see Portugal, but Trás-os-Montes lends itself perfectly to the winter months. Yes it’s cold, yes there might be snow, but the region is built for ‘cosy’ – think fireplaces, steaming hot soups, hearty meaty dishes, flowing red wine and peaceful, frosty mornings.
The exception to this is if you are planning a hiking holiday in which case the snowy, sometimes harsh weather in the winter of the north is not suitable. Wait until spring and you’ll be rewarded with wildflowers.
Summer in this corner of Portugal is fiercely hot, sometimes reaching the mid forties so not the best for hiking. This is a great time of year for cooling off in waterfalls.
Where to Stay in Trás-os-Montes
One of the best experiences in this region is staying in a traditional cottage. It is becoming harder and harder to find these authentic stays but Trás-os-Montes has plenty.
- O Palheirinho Traditional stay and experience
- Casa da Barriada I Stone cottage in Gondesende
- Casa do Parâmio two bedroom house in the heart of Montesinho natural park
How to Visit Trás-os-Montes
Although some of the towns are reachable by train and bus, it is best to explore with a car, especially if you are hoping to enjoy time in Montesinho national park. The closest international airport is Porto, a 3h drive to Bragança and 1h30 to Vila Real.
It is possible to create a circular route around Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro by driving far to the east (Torre de Moncorvo or Mogadouro), then up to Bragança, before driving west to Chaves and south to Vila Real. Or reverse the route if you want to ease yourself into the remoteness.
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Portugal Travel Planning Map
The best way to plan your Portugal itinerary is by having all of the options in one place. I’ve created a trip planning map for Portugal with hundreds of pins to help you plan your trip. Need trip inspiration or itinerary ideas? You’ll find everything you need on the map.
Rent a car in Trás-os-Montes
The best place to pick up a rental car is Porto (either airport or downtown). I always use Zest for car rental in Portugal. They have an excellent no excess insurance option.
Some people combine a trip to Trás-os-Montes with Galicia in northern Spain. If you do this, check if the rental company allows it.
Driving the N2
The EN2 is a 739km national road (estrada nacional) running right down the middle of the country. Kilometer 0 is in the town of Chaves and the first 65km of the route goes through Trás-os-Montes e Alto douro region in the Norte.You can pick up a “passport” at Chaves tourist information centre and collect stamps along the route. Most people do the route by car but if you’re a keen cyclist, this is a great adventure through Portugal.
Trás-os-Montes and the traditions & experiences from the Norte
This region of Portugal is home to rich culture and quirky traditions. It’s a region to dive into the history of carnival, ancient pottery techniques and satisfying dishes.
Black Pottery of Bisalhães, Alto Douro
Portugal is well-known for ceramics. When most people think of Portuguese ceramics they think of the colourful painted designs found in Alentejo and Centro regions but in the very north of Portugal you can find something different. O barro preto de Bisalhães, a rare type of black clay earthenware produced using archaic kilns. The town of Bisalhães, close to Vila Real is the only town still producing this type of pottery in Portugal;. the pottery and process is recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage. Interesting article here.
Trás-os-Montes What to Eat & Drink
Portugal is often thought of as a seafood destination. It’s true you can find an abundance of fresh fish and seafood dishes along its 800km of coastline but in Portugal’s interior, meat takes centre stage.
Cured Sausages & Meaty Stews
The interior northern regions such as Tras-os-Montes e Alto Douro are all about hearty stews and cured meats. You’ll find menus that heavily feature pork, steaks and chourico.
The Birthplace of Alheira
Tras-os-Montes is also home to Alheira, a type of sausage made from chicken and bread. The pork-free sausages were invented by the Jewish, who in the 15th century, were forced to convert to Christianity. The “sausages” were hung on door frames tricking the authorities; alheira became a symbol of resilience.
Trás-os-Montes Convent Sweets
Convent sweets and pastries can be found in all regions across Portugal but nowhere harnesses the rich local produce like the north. Expect cakes and pastries filled with pumpkin, almonds, honey, olive oil and chestnuts. Think, Pasteis de nata, but autumnal. Yum.
Here are a few to taste during your time in Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro.
- Pitos de Santa Luzia (pumpkin and cinnamon)
- Brigantinos (chestnuts, almonds, olive oil, honey)
- Toucinho do Céu de Murça (almonds, pumpkin jam, egg)
- Súplicas (biscuits)
Places to visit in Trás-os-Montes
Okay let’s get to the itinerary. Where should you stop, visit and stay during your trip to Portugal Trás-os-Montes e alto Douro region?
Bragança
The heart of Trás-os-Montes and Portugal’s most northern city. A majestic castle and entrance to Montesinho natural park.
Where to stay in Bragança
- Solar de Santa Maria Stay in a 17th century Manor
- Pousada de Bragança – hilltop pousada
- Secret Garden 4 bedroom house
- Inn Door 21 Guesthouse and Hostel Large kitchen, terrace and fireplace room
Vila Real
A pretty city with a huge open square full of cafes.
Mirandela
A city south of the region and home to several highly-rated restaurants. This is a good base if you are in the region for Podence Carnival – Entrudo de chocalheiros.
Podence
If you’re in Podence you’re probably here for the caretos. This tiny village has managed to keep an ancient tradition alive and at the forefront of the town. Becoming UNESCO recognised in 2020 and without a doubt the most unique carnival I’ve experienced in Portugal. The Entrudo de Chacalheiro (Feb/March) is the time to be in the village, but even if you can’t make it for the carnival period you can still learn a lot about the Caretos at the museum.
Pedras Salgadas
30km into the N2, the unassuming village is typical of the norte region.
Mogadouro & Torre de Moncorvo
This area of Trás-os-Montes is completely under the radar and a truly remote corner of Portugal. Head for dinner at the O Lagar do Nicolau olive press & restaurant.
I hope this travel guide is helpful for planning your northern Portugal itinerary. Trás-os-Montes deserves your time. I’ll be back again soon and will continue to update this guide. Happy Planning!
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