Madeira island is one of the few destinations where I really push people to hire a car.
While the mainland of Portugal is also best explored by car to give you more freedom and reach; when you get to the islands your experience will be greatly reduced without wheels.
If you don’t want to or are unable to then I recommend booking a tour guide for one or multiple days so that you don’t miss out.
There are plenty of companies to hire a car in Madeira, from small, local businesses to well-known brands. My personal suggestion and favourite way to book is Zest because no-excess insurance is included and everything is clear and upfront from the beginning (no hidden charges). I found them about in 2019, 4 years into living in Portugal, after many, many poor experiences. Since then I’ve used them all over Portugal, Spain and Italy. I’ve lost count of how many trips but it’s 10+ now which is why I feel so comfortable recommending them.
They are a broker company which means you can put in your dates and it will bring up all the available choices.
If you prefer not to use a broker then instead go to a car hire company you already know and trust, but be prepared to pay higher prices.
I never usually do un-recommend companies but I tried a different broker (CarJet) recently and it was a terrible experience so I do not recommend using them.
I haven’t personally had the opportunity to hire a scooter in Madeira yet but it’s on my list. I’ll update this as soon as I have personal experience.
Sea view with banana palms Madeira
Driving in Madeira Solo
Is it safe to drive solo in Madeira?
I see this question pop up, especially from women. During 3 weeks of driving around Madeira as a solo (female) person I never experienced any major problems. Like anywhere in the world, driving in new places has risks but as long as you are sensible you will find the driving in Madeira enjoyable rather than stressful. If you are super nervous about driving solo or you simply don’t want to then that’s fine but on’t let anyone tell you you can’t or shouldn’t drive solo in Madeira.
Tips for Driving in Madeira
Remain cautious like you would driving on any new roads. Not only are the roads new for you but for many other drivers on the road, stay alert.
Traffic is usually not an issue in most parts of the islands with exception to Funchal. I generally try to avoid rush hour in Funchal.
Be brave (not stupid).
Some of the roads will likely be more windy and steep than you are used to (unless you live in a mountainous area). When ascending don’t be afraid to put your foot down a bit more than usual. If it’s particularly steep you have to be confident with your driving otherwise you’ll stall and have to do a hill-start – not fun. As tempting as it may be, if it’s not an actual road or vehicle access don’t drive it.
Respect the locals.
While many of us are on holiday when we visit Madeira, not everyone on the island has the time to slow down at every miradouro. Be wary of cars behind you and if you do want to stop to take in the view or take a photo find a safe place to pull over (there are plenty of miradouros with ample parking). Avoid rush hour in and around Funchal if possible.
Watch out for wildlife (and waterfalls).
Watch out for and expect to come across wildlife when driving in Madeira. Cows are particularly common and also stubborn, they’ll move in their own time. Approach slowly.
There is one waterfall you can literally drive under, Anjos Waterfall, this is a popular tourist attraction so expect people on the road and cars parked up all over the place trying to get photos. Enjoy the experience, but be careful. If the road is closed do not try and pass, it’s for your safety.
Don’t go off-road or ignore road closures.
On that note, some of the roads in Madeira are susceptible to rockfalls and other dangers. Because of this you may come across road closures during your trip. Don’t ignore them.
If you’re not sure if you can fit, don’t go.
If you’re in a small village and wondering if the car will fit down the road, consider if it is absolutely necessary to take that road. If it isn’t, don’t go.
I say this from personal experience in other parts of Portugal. I still cringe about the time I spent 20 minutes reversing out of Soajo, literally a few inches at a time, with the help of a local 80 year old.
GoogleMaps isn’t always right.
GoogleMaps is getting better and I love this app for navigating Portugal, but on the islands it is less accurate. Take ‘fastest route’ and ‘shortest route’ with a pinch of salt. Also worth noting some parts of Madeira you may be without signal so be prepared to use road signs like your ancestors did 😉
But, GoogleMaps is also a great tool.
Before you go pin some destinations, miradouros, restaurants etc so that once you are out exploring you can see what’s nearby
What Type of Car Do I Need in Madeira
I’ve seen lots of people claiming you need a 4×4 or otherwise powerful car while in Madeira. During both my trips I had the smallest car possible. I drove everywhere, including to the top of Areirio and my Fiat Panda and Corsa both made it without blowing up. Yes, you’ll have to put your foot down to get up those steep passes but you will make it. The bonus of the smaller cars is finding parking is easier.
Of course if you have the budget, a slightly more powerful car will probably be more enjoyable for the inclines.
Best Roads to Drive in Madeira
From São Vicente to Porta do Sol
The road down to Porto Moniz
The north east – wild
Parking in Madeira
Parking is a mixed bag in Madeira. It depends where you are on the island. Funchal is the busiest place and where you are most likely to pay for parking. You’ll also find many of the south coast towns such as Calheta are mostly paid parking. Take note of the different coloured lines. Yellow lines are for residents. Look for white lines.
I hope this helps you plan your road trip to Madeira a little easier. Since I travel to Madeira every year Ill be sure to update each time. Happy Planning!
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but you are overwhelmed, make use of my local knowledge and travel planning experience. Choose a one hour call to get you off the ground or add on full personalised itinerary for a stress-free trip planned by a local travel expert.
Of all the regions I’ve visited in Portugal, Madeira is, by far, the best for experiences. I know that’s a big claim, but it really does have it all. As someone who is a sucker for unique experiences, spending two weeks in Madeira was just like being a kid in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. Dramatic landscapes, epic driving, mouth watering food, waterfalls, wine and wonder. Ladies and gentlemen… welcome to Madeira!
Madeira is so special that the original Madeira travel guide was overflowing with experiences so I wrote a specific experience guide. This island is made for adventure so buckle up, here is my personal run down of Madeira’s best experiences.
HIKE TO MADEIRA’S HIGHEST POINT – THE BREATHTAKING PICO RUIVO
At 1861m Pico Ruivo is Madeira ‘s highest peak and the island’s most spectacular hike. There are several ways to reach Ruivo. The easiest is the PR1.2 route from Achada do Teixeira. This fairly easy hike takes around an hour and has you above the clouds almost immediately. The most famous hike is the longer, more challenging PR1 route which links the 3 highest peaks together Pico Arieiro, Pico das Torres and Pico Ruivo. This 12 km out and back route delivers a challenging but breathtaking hike with views you won’t forget in a hurry. If hikings not your jam but you don’t want to miss out on the views you’re in luck. There is a car park a very short walk from the peak of Arieiro which delivers the most incredible sunrise and sunset. Arrive early (before sunrise) if you want to guarantee a space at the top car park and grab a space at the lookout.
Hiking in Madeira – the new rules. To combat overcrowding the regional government has implemented a booking system. There are a limited number of slots available on each trail each day and you now have to choose your day and pay in advance using the SIMplifica website. There is a helpful video (in English and Portuguese) explaining exactly how to do this. This applies to the following trails :
PR1 Areeiro Trail
PR1.1 Island Path
PR1.2 Pico Ruivo Trail
PR1.3 Encumeada Trail
PR2 Urzal Trail
PR5 Vereda das Funduras
PR6 Levada das 25 Fontes
PR6.1 Levada do Risco
PR6.2 Levada do Alecrim
PR6.3 Lagoa do Vento Trail
PR6.4 Levada Velha do Rabaçal
PR6.5 Pico Fernandes Trail
PR6.6 Horse Tunnel Trail
PR6.7 Rabaçal Loading Chamber Trail
PR6.8 Levada do Paul II
PR7 Levada do Moinho
PR8 Ponta de S. Lourenço Trail
PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde
PR9.1 Levada do Caldeirão Verde
PR10 Levada do Furado
PR11 Balcony Path
PR12 Royal Road of Encumeada
PR13 Fanal Trail
PR13.1 Straw Path Load
PR14 Levada dos Cedros
PR15 Ribeira da Janela Trail
PR16 Levada Fajã do Rodrigues
PR17 Pinnacle and Leaf Trail
PR18 King’s Canal
PR19 Royal Road of Paul do Mar
PR20 Vereda do Jardim do Mar
PR21 Northern Road
PR22 Vereda do Chão dos Louros
PR27 Plateau Glacier
PR28 Levada da Rocha Vermelha
I understand that booking and paying for access to nature can feel frustrating but in this case I support it 100%. As visitors, tourists, hikers and humans we need to take responsibility for our impact. If the trails continued running as they were before with no cap on visitor numbers, not only would it become dangerous but there would be no trails left to enjoy. Nature has to come first. Please respect the rules.
OR TAKE THE PATH LESS BEATEN PATH – HIKE TO PICO GRANDE
PR1 is undeniably beautiful and for sure the best hike to experience on the island. However if you have already completed PR1 and you are looking for another challenge or you wan to hike away from the crowds and the drones then Pico Grande is your answer. There are several routes up there but I took the Vereda das Fajã Escura trail to Relvinhas and then joined the Encumeada trail to Pico Grande. For the entire Fajã Escura trail I didn’t see another single person, it was me and the lizards the whole way up and back. When I madeI made it to the last 1km slog to the top of Pico Grande I was joined by a handful of people from the Encumeada trail; but by. no means was it busy. The trail is hard, it is a relentless incline and a scramble tot eh very top, but it is also opens up to the most breathtaking landscape. From almost the very beginning you’ll be able to make out the PR1 trail in the distance and as you get closer to the peak you can mak eout the entire central mountain massif. Absolutely incredible. Although it is not a technical climbs there are some areas that need extra care. Some parts of the trail are narrow with a sheer drop and no railings. The last 1km to the top is a scramble over loose rock but this is open and no chance of slipping off an edge. The trail starts nice and shady but opens right up to brutal sun exposure at the end so take hats and cream. It was a toughie, for me at least, but it’s a brilliant hike.
SWIM AND FROLIC IN THE PORTO MONIZ NATURAL POOLS
Porto Moniz is one of the more ‘touristy’ places in Madeira but with good reason. The town is on the most western point and looks across to Seixal and the most stunning cliffs plunging into the ocean. Another big draw are the natural pools. Usually I am completely put off by crowded places but I really enjoyed swimming at the pools here. Even during the busiest time of day there is space to find your own rock.
STAY IN A REAL MOUNTAIN SHELTER
This is one of the coolest experiences I had in Madeira. Not many people know you can stay in the mountain shelter at Pico Ruivo, in fact I read blogs specifically telling people you can’t. I’m here to tell you can, and it’s brilliant! Casa Do Abrigo is just 10 minutes down from the peak. It’s extremely basic and there is no electricity but for €18 you’ll get a bed with warm bedding and access to the toilets and showers (cold water only). One thing to note – there are snacks available to buy but no hot food. There is a bbq area if you want to bring your own to cook. Alternatively if you are on PR1.2 you can fill up at Achada do Teixeira mountain spot cafe before you arrive (about a 1 hour hike from Casa Abrigo).
This is one of the best ways to get close to nature in Madeira and the island is completely set up for it. Wild camping is illegal in Portugal but Madeira has around 12 designated areas spread across the island where it’s allowed. The only rule is you must apply for a camping permit first. The process is free and very easy – visit here to apply. I wild camped twice during the first trip. In the first location I shared the large area with a two other tents but the second place I camped (pictured above) I had completely to myself.
EMBARK ON A DRIVING ADVENTURE RIGHT THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF THE ISLAND
Sea view with banana palms Madeira
Madeira is Made for driving! It is the only way to really experience the island. I’ve now spent three weeks of driving around Madeira; my jaw was constantly at my feet. There is a great road between São Vicente and Porto do Sol that takes you from the coast up to almost the highest point and back down through the valley to the other coast. The scenery is breathtaking the entire way and I can confidently say the roads are some of the most scenic I’ve ever driven on. One thing to keep in mind, some roads (especially sections of the ring road) may be closed due to weather/other dangers. Please respect these closures for your own and other’s safety, and for the protection of this beautiful island.
You’ll notice I mention Zest in many of my guides. That’s because I’ve used them for my car hire all over Portugal including Madeira. I highly recommend them for their easy-to-use website and excellent customer service.
If you’re looking for a real remote feeling, drive out to Ponta do Pargoand walk the windswept cliffs. This was one of the most remote feeling places I drove and it’s guaranteed to make you feel small. Don’t forget to stop off at Gato Legal for coffee.
GET A FREE CAR WASH AND SHOWER
It may not be Madeira’s best kept secret but Cascata dos Anjos has to be one of the most unique experiences on the island.This dramatic waterfall lands right onto the road making the most exciting car wash of your life; or if you’re up for it, the most exciting shower of your life. Be safe and sensible. If the area is closed, do not pass.
TAKE PART IN A WINE TASTING WITH A VIEW
I’m sure you’ve already heard of and probably even tasted the island’s famous ‘Madeira’ wine but did you know the island also has some stunning table wines and some spectacular places to drink them. I’ve been lucky enough to take part in wine tastings all over Portugal and Quinta do Barbusano winery based in São Vicente is one of, if not, the most beautiful.
Achadas da Cruz is a remote village in a hidden corner of Madeira. The only access is via boat or a (steep) cable car ride. For €5 you can ride down to the secluded beach and village. Walk the stone path and admire the towering cliffs pluncging down into the ocean. natural beauty at it’s finest
BATHE AT A BLACK SAND BEACH
Madeira isn’t known for sandy beaches. Although there are some jaw dropping beaches to explore there are only two (black) sand beaches on the island, the rest are stoney. These black beauties may not be the typical beach you think of when you think of Portugal but they do offer a unique beach experience. Pack your bathers and a towel and head to Seixal for a day on this black sand beach.
If you’re looking for sandy beaches and more chances to sunbathe it’s worth mentioning Porto Santo (a short ferry or flight away) has some gorgeous white sand beaches to enjoy.
I could go on and on but part of the magic of Madeira is getting out and finding your own experiences so…off you go! Have fun! If (when) you find other cool experiences let me know so I can add them to my next trip itinerary!
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but you are overwhelmed, make use of my local knowledge and travel planning experience. Choose a one hour call to get you off the ground or add on full personalised itinerary for a stress-free trip planned by a local travel expert.
The ultimate travel guide for Madeira Island in Portugal
After several action-packed Madeira trips it was time to sit down and write this guide. Madeira, what can I say? I have been lucky enough to travel to some special islands in my lifetime and Madeira is right up there with my favourites. My first trip in 2022 remains one of my favourite ever trips, full of everything I love, stunning natural backdrops, hiking, ocean, fresh tasty food, breath taking bends, tropical fruits, I could go on and on… and that is why I keep going back year after year.
As always, I don’t rush writing my travel guides. A lot of time and consideration goes into making them and they aren’t like any other you’ll find online. They are written from personal experience, not just regurgitated information you can find anywhere. I hope it can help you plan the very best trip to Madeira. Ready to get started? Let’s go!
WHY MADEIRA?
The island of Madeira is truly unique. Imagine a tropical island mixed with Jurassic park and you’ll have a glimpse of whats on offer. Although Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal and home to the same friendly, welcoming Portuguese I have come to know and love on the mainland, the island has its own distinct vibe that cannot be found elsewhere in the country.
The largest island in the Macronesia archipelago, Madeira is one of three islands; the other two being Porto Santo and Desertas. Although Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal it is situated on the African continent, close to the canary islands.
HOW TO GET TO MADEIRA
Madeira is just a short hop from Portugal; a 1h40 hour flight from Lisbon. 3h45 from London and 7h50 from New York. The international airport Santa Cruz is Portugal’s 4th largest. In 2024 two new direct flights to the US were opened, making the journey here even easier.
I always use SkyScanner to check for flights.If you are able to be flexible you’ll find some great value journeys there. A good tip on how to find the best price is to select an ‘entire month’ when searching; this allows you to pick and choose arrival and departure dates using a traffic light system.
HOW TO GET AROUND MADEIRA
I strongly recommend getting a hire car for at least some if not all of your trip. Without it your experience of the island will be limited. For me the best activity was the actual driving itself. The roads on Madeira offer breathtaking views and using a car is the best way to explore the island deeper. I’ve written a guide specifically for driving in Madeira.
As usual I used Zest to find my car. I’ve been using Zest for many years now and I have them to thank for most of my driving experiences in Europe, but especially in Portugal.
If you don’t hire a car you’ll probably want to base yourself in Funchal and take tours out of the city. There is a great airport shuttle that runs approximately every hour and drops off at more than a dozen stops in the Funchal area.
Like much of Europe, the peak season is summer so Portugal (including Madeira) is busiest in July and August school holidays – I would avoid these months if possible. Shoulder seasons (May, June, September, October) are a great time to visit the island but honestly Madeira really is one of those places you can travel to year round. If you plan on hiking and getting up in the mountains then spring or autumn is best. New Years Eve is a popular time of year so book in advance if you are traveling over this period.
WEATHER IN MADEIRA
The weather in Madeira is, ever-changing but generally mild year round and even in the depths of winter Funchal doesn’t drop below 13 or so. It can be quite humid; expect a mix of hot sunshine and rain showers, and maybe even the odd storm blowing through. The weather changes depending on where (or how high up) you are on the island so if you’re stuck in the rain don’t assume the whole island is the stuck in the same rain. The south coast is usually sunnier than the north coast. The peaks are naturally very different to the coast and more prone to unstable weather. Always carry layers with you.
HOW TO LONG TO STAY IN MADEIRA
The longer the better. Madeira is one of those places you can stay for a month and still not see and do everything. There is so much to see and do that you can fill up your time no matter how long you stay. If it is your first trip a night or two is not enough, even for Funchal. Give Madeira at least 5 nights of your time, but if you have the luxury of more time then a week or 10 days would be ideal. I’ve amounted 3 weeks of travel time in Madeira and I still have so much to see and do. It’s impossible to get bored and I’ll be taking trips here every year for a long time to come. Don’t be tempted to come for one or two nights – it’s not worth it! It isn’t a tick box destination, it’s an island to get lost in nature and that takes time.
WHERE TO STAY IN MADEIRA
Most people flock to Funchal but although the capital is worth spending time in, it’s got nothing on some of the other spots on the island. Madeira’s main draw is its outstanding natural beauty. If you are here for that then it makes sense to stay amongst it.
A few tips for booking accommodation…
Be open-minded. As soon as you venture away from the bright lights on Funchal accommodation options become varied. There are some great boutique hotels (like Casa da Piedade in São Vicente) and cosy guesthouses to be found but some of the apartments/houses I have found during my search and travels are unbeatable in terms of location and view. If you are prepared to loose a little bit of luxury and style you will be rewarded with authentic stays and the best views on the island. Like this 4 bedroom villa in Curral das Freiras I stayed in.
If you have more than 4 nights consider splitting your time in a few different locations on the island. Try one coastal and one in the mountains.
Work with a travel planner to save time and make the most out of your trip. I work with couples and families to build Portugal trips that align with your preferences and travel style. I create highly tailored itineraries full to the brim with authentic experiences and activities.
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but you are overwhelmed, make use of my local knowledge and travel planning experience. Choose a one hour call to get you off the ground or add on full personalised itinerary for a stress-free trip planned by a local travel expert.
Book in advance. Madeira is becoming more and more popular and while it’s unlikely you’ll be stuck without anything, options do dwindle the closer you get to the time.
I find BookingCom has the most varied options but you do need to spend time to sift through. Airbnb also has some good properties but not as many. If you are able to go to the property direct this is helpful for them since they pay a high commission to platforms such as bookingCom.
Here are a few locations to consider when staying in Madeira.
FUNCHAL
The obvious and easiest choice is Madeira’s capital – Funchal. It’s only 40 mins from the airport and has the biggest choice of accommodation on the island. This is the best place to stay if you don’t have a car as most tours depart from here. I’ve included links for places I have personally stayed.
If you are looking for a luxury stay the Funchal should be your base. Savoy Palace and The Reserve are head and shoulders above the other luxury hotels and resorts on the island.
SÃO VICENTE
This small but stunning valley is located on the north coast. It’s one of my favourite locations to get close to nature in Madeira. You’ll find a mix of mountains and sea in close proximity, plus dramatic views, epic waterfalls, Seixal sea pool and the natural pools of Porto Moniz.
There are lots of great apartments in São Vicente but I want to mention this small hotel Casa da Piedade which is set in the most beautiful tropical gardens. It was so good the first time I went back and stayed again. The rooms are spacious and well decorated and an excellent traditional breakfast is included. The pool and garden are a welcoming sight after a day on the road or a long hike. If you’re looking for a day or two to chill this is the place for you. It is also excellent value.
Garden’s Guest House This guest house is great value and includes a kitchen if you want to cook for a change. Balcony rooms have great views out towards to ocean.
MADALENA DO MAR
This cute village on the sea is a true hidden gem. Just a 10 minute drive from the popular digital nomad town of Porta do Sol but with its own local charm and authentic feel. The village is surrounded by banana palms making it feel even more tropical than Madeira already does.
I stayed in a small duplex which is no longer available but you can find more stays here.
If you are traveling with a small group, kids or you just like a lot of space I found this gorgeous house Casa da Madalena do Mar with unbeatable sea views.
CURRAL DAS FREIRAS
What a gem! Also known as Valley of the nuns, this town is smack bang in the middle of Madeira surrounded by the highest peaks of the island. Curral das Freiras is not only home to a dramatic mountain landscape but also some super authentic tascas and some great bars too. The town is also the start/end point of some epic hiking trails. There aren’t tonnes of accommodation options available and be prepared for traditional style homes but I definitely recommend staying here for a night or two. I stayed in this 4 bedroom villa, if you can get past the granny decor you will be rewarded with three terraces and uninterrupted mountain views.
CALHETA
Now, Calheta isn’t one of my top choices. It is more of a resort area with little to actually see/do right in the town. However it is in a great location for exploring the south coast and both Jardim do Mar and Paul do Mar are close by.
SANTANA
I stayed in a “traditional” house in Santana which is no longer available. This is a great location for hiking though so consider searching for some other accommodation options in the area such as this gorgeous bed & breakfast with pool. Asides from proximity to hikes there isn’t much else in Santana.
CAMPING IN MADEIRA
A true highlight was spending a few nights wild camping in Madeira’s natural beauty and if you have the time and are able to bring or hire the equipment – then do it!
There are a dozen or so legal wild camping spots on Madeira but you must apply for a permit in advance (it’s free and easy) . I can personally recommend Chão das Feiteiras (great views of the peaks and friendly sheep) and Chão dos Louros (more sheltered from the elements and with plenty of parking). There are a limited number of spots at São Lourenço too – camping here and spending sunrise and sunset here would be a truly special experience.
WHAT TO SEE + DO IN MADEIRA
The island is ALL about experiences so I have written a specific guide for this.
There is so much to see, do and experience in Madeira that it’s almost impossible to get it all done in one trip but these were my true highlights.
HIKE A PEAK (OR TWO)
Madeira has some of the most dramatic backdrops I’ve come across in my years of travel. Whether you’re a hiking addict or new to the activity you’ll be blown away by the trails in Madeira. The most popular tail is the PR1 between Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo. There are several ways to do this hike. PR1 is the ongest, most difficult and involves at 12km out-and-back hike from pico Areeiro. This hike is extremely popular. A shorter alternative is the PR1.2. To check if the trail you want to hike has any current restrictions, go to the Visit Madeira website.
Hiking in Madeira – the new rules. To combat overcrowding the regional government has implemented a booking system. There are a limited number of slots available on each trail each day and you now have to choose your day and pay in advance using the SIMplifica website. There is a helpful video (in English and Portuguese) explaining exactly how to do this. This applies to the following trails :
PR1 Areeiro Trail
PR1.1 Island Path
PR1.2 Pico Ruivo Trail
PR1.3 Encumeada Trail
PR2 Urzal Trail
PR5 Vereda das Funduras
PR6 Levada das 25 Fontes
PR6.1 Levada do Risco
PR6.2 Levada do Alecrim
PR6.3 Lagoa do Vento Trail
PR6.4 Levada Velha do Rabaçal
PR6.5 Pico Fernandes Trail
PR6.6 Horse Tunnel Trail
PR6.7 Rabaçal Loading Chamber Trail
PR6.8 Levada do Paul II
PR7 Levada do Moinho
PR8 Ponta de S. Lourenço Trail
PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde
PR9.1 Levada do Caldeirão Verde
PR10 Levada do Furado
PR11 Balcony Path
PR12 Royal Road of Encumeada
PR13 Fanal Trail
PR13.1 Straw Path Load
PR14 Levada dos Cedros
PR15 Ribeira da Janela Trail
PR16 Levada Fajã do Rodrigues
PR17 Pinnacle and Leaf Trail
PR18 King’s Canal
PR19 Royal Road of Paul do Mar
PR20 Vereda do Jardim do Mar
PR21 Northern Road
PR22 Vereda do Chão dos Louros
PR27 Plateau Glacier
PR28 Levada da Rocha Vermelha
I understand that booking and paying for access to nature can feel frustrating but in this case I support it 100%. As visitors, tourists, hikers and humans we need to take responsibility for our impact. If the trails continued running as they were before with no cap on visitor numbers, not only would it become dangerous but there would be no trails left to enjoy. Nature has to come first. Please respect the rules.
Looking for something more off the (quite literally) beaten path?
From Curral das Freiras you can take the Vereda das Fajã Escura trail to Relvinhas and then (if energy allows) join the Encumeada trail to the top of Pico Grande. this trail is not for the faint hearted. It isn’t technical but there are some narrow sections with steep drops and no railings so hike with caution.
Another hike with jaw dropping views to consider is the PR8. Not only does this 14km (out and back) hike offer stunning views across Madeira but a couple of unspoilt beaches too. Unlike the mainland of Portugal the ocean here is warm and if you bring your googles you may even see a few tropical fish. There is a great cafe offering drinks and snacks at the midway point.
WILD CAMP
This is such a unique experience that I highly recommend spending at least a night of your trip under the stars. Wild camping is usually illegal in Portugal but Madeira offers a limited amount of wild camping spots at designated areas on the island. You can secure a permit here.
DRINK A PONCHA
If you’ve read even one guide on madeira you have probably noticed the name Poncha pop up once or twice. This kick-ass drink can be found across the island and is made up of sugar cane brandy and fresh juice (traditionally lemon). Poncha is notoriously strong so beware of the taster flights you can find in Funchal. You have been warned! Find a bar who will make it fresh in front of you for the full experience. My favourite Poncha experience was at Snack Bar Restaurante Boca Da Encumeada.
SWIM IN THE NATURAL POOLS OF PORTO MONIZ
Another popular experience in Madeira that you should definitely jump into. I was a little worried about visiting Porto Moniz as from everything I read it was very busy and a stop off for lots of tours. When I arrived my fears were confirmed – it was so busy, but much to my surprise I had a brilliant afternoon despite the crowds. The pools are such a unique shape that there are plenty of little cubby holes and crevices. I had no problem finding a secluded spot to swim in. The atmosphere was actually really fun. Lots of happy families plunging in and out of the (warm!) pools so I would definitely recommend this if you have kids too. I didn’t get to test my theory because I ran out of time but I bet if you arrived for sunrise you’d have this natural park to yourself. One more thing, if you take the short walk to the port you may be able to catch a glimpse of fisherman unloading their haul of scabbard fish – amazing!
DRIVE THE ISLAND
The best way to see this island is on your own wheels. The driving is utterly breathtaking and you’ll be able to discover corners most tourists will never see. I definitely recommend hiring a car for at least a day or two. Most of my favourite experiences were thanks to the flexibility I had from my hire car. Pin your most-wanted on GoogleMaps but don’t be afraid to go off-course too. One thing to keep in mind, some roads (especially sections of the ring road) may be closed due to weather/other dangers. Please respect these closures for your own and other’s safety, and for the protection of this beautiful island.
You may notice I didn’t mention the famous toboggan run in Funchal. I chose not to do this activity while I was there because personally I think it’s overpriced and just a touch too touristy for me. If I wasn’t solo then I think I would have been happy to shell out for the experience. The information is super easy to find online. Go forth and enjoy!
WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK IN MADEIRA
Portugal is home to some of the tastiest fish and meat dishes you’ll find on planet earth and let’s not forget the freshly baked goods either. Madeira is no exception. What I loved about this island is that there are many specialities that you cannot find on the mainland. Through travel in Madeira my knowledge of Portuguese cuisine has grown a little deeper. Here are just a few of the many delicious dishes and drinks you need to try in Madeira.
LAPAS (limpets) Limpets. Yes, really. Probably not the sort of thing you imagine eating but these amazing gifts from the sea are a delicious mix between a clam and a scallop. They taste even better washed down with a glass of white wine next to the sea at A Taberna Madalena do Mar mentioned below.
ESPADA PRETO (black scabbard fish) Esapada preto could easily earn the title “ugliest fish in the ocean” but these menacing looking creatures are surprisingly tasty. Traditionally eaten with bananas so look out for this dish on the menu.
BOLO DE CACO The closest bread product I can compare this too is an English muffin. These traditional rolls are usually served toasted with homemade garlic butter. You can find them all over the island and you absolutely must order as many as possible. I’ve tried but failed to find anywhere on the mainland that sells these as good as in Madeira.
SOPA DA TOMATE There is something so comforting about tomato soup in the mountains and Madeira do it exceptionally well. Usually served hot with an egg and bolo de Caco.
BOLO DE MEL
This sweet honey cake is reminiscent of a Christmas cake. Islander’s having been making the cake from local sugarcane for centuries.
NIKITA Beer mixed with pineapple ice cream. Say whaaaat?! Yes it is as wonderful as it sounds. Sweet, creamy and perfect on a hot day. This creation is officially a top 5 drink for me.
BEST RESTAURANTS AND BARS IN MADEIRA
I’ll start by saying this is not a comprehensive guide of restaurants in Madeira because there are simply too many to share. Also I think when it comes to restaurants we all have to be a little bit braver and seek out some hidden gems. Here are a few of my favourites I found while on the road…
Taberna Boca da Encumeada (Encumeada) I accidentally found this when searching for my wild camp spot. It has a few outdoor tables (that were shrouded in mist when i arrived giving it a very eerie but cool vibe) and a bar with a tonne of character
A Taberna Madalena do Mar (Madalena do Mar) This beachside shack gave me all the Thai vibes. Plastic chairs right on the rocks, excellent lapas and cheap wine! Take me back now!
Bar Dona Maria (Madalena do Mar) A typical Portuguese snack bar. Uber cheap, drink with the locals, and do it with a view of the black sand beach and dramatic cliffs. Perfeito!
Gato Legal Coffee (Ponta do Pargo) I’m a coffee snob. While I happily knock back Portuguese coffee in espresso form I’m a sucker for specialty coffee. After a bit of research I found Gato Legal and it perked me right up.
Mountain Spot cafe (Achada do Teixeira) Kind of like you just arrived at a chalet in the Alps, except this is Portugal and you’re about to hike to the highest peak on the island. Great spot to shelter and fill up on some warm grub before or after you hit the trail. This is also the parking spot for the start of PR1.2.
Calhau snack bar (Achadas da Cruz) Nothing particularly spectacular about the food if I’m being honest, but the view? Oh my. Lovely spot for some lunch and a few beers. Don’t forget to ride the cable car!
Quinta do Barbusano (São Vincente) Mentioned in my ‘best experiences in Madeira guide’ this winery is perched high above São Vincente and has a spectacular vista to sip wine in front of. I did a brilliant wine tasting here but they also have a great restaurant. Book in advance.
Maktub (Paul do Mar) There’s a young crowd here and it’s a favourite hangout for digital nomads who reside in nearby Porta do sol so bare that in mind, but it is also a fantastic sunset spot. This stretch of coast really cops the sun so it’s a great afternoon spot for a few drinks on the beach. The cocktail menu is colouful and tasty but don’t expect strong.
Snack Bar As Pedras (Ponta Delgada) Tucked away in Ponta Delgada away from the usual tourist trail As Pedras was a great surpise. The simple restaurant offers just a few dishes (meat or fish), cheap wine and a sea view that will make you want to stay for a homemade poncha.
Okay, how are we feeling? Have you got at least a small idea of how amazing Madeira is? I hope so! This guide is designed to help you start planning the perfect trip to Madeira but don’t stop here. If you’d like some help planning an action packed but realistic itinerary book a travel planning call and we’ll get you on the road and make sure you have a trip of a lifetime.
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I hope you found this Madeira guide helpful. Don’t forget to forge your own path too and find your own hidden treasures around the island. Happy adventuring!
All photos are taken by me. Please do not use without credit and a link to this page.
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