Aveiro was one of the first places I visited in Portugal after moving to Lagos. In 2017 I embarked on a pottery road-trip which took me through the Centro region, seeking out ceramics for a business. The trip took me to one of Portugal’s pottery centres – Aveiro, but with so little time and a focus only on pottery I missed a lot of what the city was about. It was another 8 years until I returned and it was only during this most recent trip I got to see more. I can confirm once more that Aveiro is NOT the Venice of Portugal, but it is one of the most colourful places in the country and a fun place to explore by foot (and boat).
Aveiro a colourful city with a canal (thats nothing like Venice)
If you’ve done any research on Aveiro you have probably noticed many people claiming it as the ‘Venice of Portugal’. This is simply because it has a (small) canal network and canal boats; that is where the similarities end. Venice is an ancient city and a mega-tourism destination, twice the size of Aveiro. Aveiro is a small modern city on the central coast of Portugal; it has lots of interesting sites and is a great stop on your Portugal itinerary but it cannot be compared to the magnitude of Venice.
We need to start celebrating Aveiro for what it is. A colourful, walkable city with pockets of unique culture, tasty treats and yes, Moliceiro boats. More below.
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Getting to and around Aveiro
Aveiro is only an hour south from Porto and is reachable by both train and bus. You don’t need a car to visit Aveiro but if you want to combine it with a trip to Costa Nova or as part of a bigger road trip a car is a great way to get around. One positive (and rare) bonus of Aveiro is a large free parking lot. This does get full in the summer so arrive early. Once you are in Aveiro, the city is easy to explore by foot. The main points of interest are situated next to the canal. The train station is a 10-15 minute walk from the centre.
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Where to Stay in Aveiro
If you’re spending the night in Aveiro, good on you! There is accommodation suiting all budgets.
- Hotel do Alboi 4 star hotel in the centre
- VIC Aveiro Arts House Funky guesthouse
- Palacete Valdemouro Splurge hotel, luxury
- 2 bedroom apartment in historical centre
How to Spend 2 days in Aveiro
Aveiro can be visited as a day trip from Porto and even as an afternoon stop between Lisbon and Porto, but if you have the time I recommend spending a night or two and combining the trip with a visit to Costa Nova. I’m not going to give you an hour by hour schedule to follow, that is not my style, but use this guide to help you build your own two day itinerary for Aveiro. There is plenty to keep you busy.
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Portugal Travel Planning Map
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What to do / best Experiences in Aveiro
It’s worth jumping on a canal boat, traditionally-known as a Moliceiro while in Aveiro, but it isn’t the only activity or reason to visit.
Moliceiro Boats : uniquely Portuguese, from Aveiro
One of the main draws of Aveiro are the Moliceiro canal boats. These originate from the 19th century when they were used as an agricultural tool to collect seaweed (moliço) which was used as fertilizer. The boats are no longer used for agricultural purposes and are now used solely for tourism. A fun way to see the city of Aveiro and to celebrate and preserve an important piece of Portuguese culture.
The colourful paintings on the bow are often satirical, and were originally thought to depict news from nearby towns. Super interesting article on Moliceiros here.
There are several companies that offer tours and there are a few locations to board. You can ride a Moliceiro for as little as €14 or consider taking a guided walking and boat tour. If you’re visiting in summer, it’s worth booking the boat ride / tour in advance.
Colourful Streets and Tiles
It feels a little strange to call Aveiro a city because it is very different and much much smaller (especially the main centre) than Lisbon, Porto or Coimbra. Think of Aveiro as more of a small town and this “small town” is very easy to walk around. One of the best ways you can spend your time is wandering the streets, spotting Azulejos (tiles) and frolicking in the mood-boosting colour palettes of the houses and buildings. You’ll also find hints of Art-Nouveau style scattered everywhere.
Don’t only look up though. Aveiro also has the most intricate and fun calçada I’ve seen in all of Portugal. The ocean-themed calçada can be spotted throughout the city.
Photographers will love this place.
Aveiro is also victim to a ribbon bridge – a rainbow of ribbons with messages written on. You can buy ribbon from shops in Aveiro an add your own to the railings.
Canal Cafe Culture
The waterside street of the canal is a row of restaurants/ cafes with seating spilling out on the pavement. If you have a sunny day while you’re in Aveiro, you’re going to want to pull up a seat here for a coffee or lunch.
Ceramics and Pottery in Aveiro
Aveiro is one of Portugal’s significant pottery centres, another being the rising Sao Pedro do Corval in Baixo Alentejo.
In Aveiro the Bairro das Olarias (pottery villages) have been present since mid-century when Aveiro was known for producing amphoras and storage for sugar (a production the city is also famous for).
In the city centre you can find a number of shops selling pottery and ceramics from all over Portugal. Outside of the centre you can find several factory stores and the famous Visit Alegre museum.
Aveiro Pottery / Local Souvenir Shops :
- Oficina da Formiga
- Ria Ceramics
- Ria Ceramics Outlet (not in centre)
- A Minha Terra Centre
- A Casa da Rosa pottery
- Bordallo Pinheiro (Ílhavo)
- Aveiro com Paixão
Don’t forget to see the incredible Fábrica da Vista Alegre Museum in Ílhavo (€6)
Another spot worth visiting is the Antiga Fábrica Jerónimo Pereira Campos – an old pottery factory and heritage building..
Ovos Moles and Aveiro’s Sweet Side
Another gem of Aveiro is its Ovos Moles. These funny shaped convent sweets are filled with a rich egg yolk and sugar filling and are thought to date back to the 16th century. Pastel de nata aside, Ovos moles are among the most famous of sweets in Portugal. You can find them all over the country, but the best place to taste them is in Aveiro.
In Aveiro there are countless versions but the current award-winning ones can be found at Confeitaria Madre Odisseia. I encourage you to try a few different places (and shapes) though.
Where to Eat in Aveiro. Don’t forget the eel.
I was really surprised at the number of fantastic restaurants in Aveiro. It’s one of the best places I’ve found for traditional (and not overpriced) Portuguese dishes.
One dish you absolutely should try in Aveiro is the Enguias, or eels. Most restaurants serve this dish. I tried it during my first visit but… it’s not for me.
If sweets are more your thing of course you have to try Ovos Moles but Aveiro has another sugary offering too. Tripas are like a mix of crepe and waffle; made with various fillings, cooked hot and fresh in front of you. The most popular place to try is Tripas da Praça.
Aveiro Restaurants Suggestions
- Adega Típica O Telheiro – Typical Portuguese
- O Buraco Bar e Restaurante – simple grilled dishes
- Churrascaria Ribau(Costa Nova) – grilled chicken take-away
- Taberna do Arco- for petiscos (Portuguese tapas)
- Restaurante Palhuça – typical Portuguese
- 2 Duques – A restaurant serving typical ‘prato do dia’ menu
- M Bakery – Something a bit different. Very fancy cakes. More of an ‘afternoon tea’ spot than a restaurant..
If you are a specialty coffee snob like me then drop by the super friendly Bastardo Coffee Roasters.
Speciality Shops
Specialty shops are a dying breed. I’m talking about shops that focus on one or maybe 2 things intensely. They sell every version of that thing you can imagine and are often run by experts of the field. I’m not sure what the history is behind it but Aveiro seems to have really held on to these specialist shops and we should protect them!
- Casa do cafe – This is a specialised coffee shop and I’m not exaggerating when I say you will smell it before you see it. A shop dedicated to coffee and feels like stepping back in time.
- Mega Hits – I honestly didn’t think these still existed. This is an independent music store selling CDs and music memorabilia. It has a focus on fado music but you can find many other genres too. I really enjoyed walking around looking at the cd covers. It reminded me of my teen years.
Visit Costa Nova – Aveiro Beach District
The beaches of Costa nova are a 15 minute drive from Aveiro city centre and a welcome breath of fresh atlantic air. If you’re here in the summer months it’s the perfect place to cool off, if you’re here in the winter the long stretch of sand is the best place for a walk in nature. Costa Nova is more than a beach though, its small strip is bursting with candy-striped buildings. Guaranteed to brighten your day whatever the season.
So there you have it, a range of activities and sites to add to your two day Aveiro itinerary.
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