In April 2026 I celebrated my 38th birthday and 4th cancerversary (4 years since cancer diagnosis – currently in full remission) by running 10km a day in 5 cities in 5 days. Seville – Palma – Barcelona – Venice- Rome.
The goal was simple. Wake up in a different city each day and run 10km with a different backdrop each day. For 5 consecutive days. The planning was meticulous and by some miracle (and an unusual level of faith in RyanAir) I pulled it off.
This post is half journal about my experience and half travel planning guide for anyone who wants to take on something similar.
If this is your first time on my website, please know this is not the usual thing you see around here. I do write about outdoor adventures and I do write travel guides about Spain, Italy and Portugal but this fast-paced style is not the norm for me. I prefer slow travel and taking time to get to know places. I’m an independent travel planner so I travel most months but more likely than not you’ll find me road tripping around a town or region, not flying from city to city every day.
This trip was the exception and links with my 24 hours in… series. The series is not about encouraging you to visit places in only 24 hours, but rather showing you how to do it if that’s the only time you have.
You can see my usual travels through my Travel Guide Collection but if you want to see how this particular run-travel challenge worked out stick around.
Firstly, let me say this – I don’t actually recommend doing this if you actually want to experience the cities you are visiting because 24 hours or less in each place makes that impossible. This was a very personal challenge, specifically for my cancerversary which is why it’s a bit chaotic.
As someone who visits Italy and Spain very regularly I found there was no pressure to do anything other than run in each place because I already know these places through travel.
For me the experience was waking up in a different city to run with a different backdrop each day. My only goal was to complete a 10km run each day. Everything else was a bonus. The running was a key element of the trip for me, but of course you could do this without running every day if you wanted.
I hope this acts as a source of inspiration for a different type of travel and experience for those who like to think (or run) outside the box.
My original goal for this celebratory challenge was running 50km in one go from my home (Cascais) to the Vasco da Gama bridge in Lisbon. 6 weeks before the goal date I ran 43km in Porto as a tester. The run went well and I felt on top of the world at the end, but the recovery was hard and long. I am currently training for a full Ironman and I knew I couldn’t risk injury so I decided to put my body first and change the format of the challenge.
The new challenge? Running 50 km over 5 days (10k every day for 5 days) but instead of doing it in the same place every day, I would do it in a different city, blending my love of travel and running.10km a day is not much of a physical challenge for the level of fitness I currently have, but doing it across 5 different cities added a new dimension to the challenge that quenched my thirst for some sort of adventure.
Once I got the idea in my head I couldn’t shake it so I started scouring SkyScanner. I became so invested in the plan that I couldn’t put my laptop down for two days, until I had figured out a route. In the space of 48 hours I’d created the route, booked the flights and convinced friends to join me for the first and last day. (Shout out to my YES friends).
“Rules” for the challenge
When I first started creating a route, I tried simply picking the cheapest flight each day and I got really far with this idea. You would be amazed at just how little you can spend and how far you can go. The beginning stages of route planning were very fun and had me stopping over in some obscure places.
Eventually I had to rein it back because some airports were too far from the city to make it work logistically and economically, others were so random there wasn’t really much there. Could I run 10k? Sure , but I wanted to be running in locations where there was actually interesting stuff to see and some of these places didn’t tick that box. So I wound it back again and started making some rules which involved airports close to city centres (30-45mins) with frequent and cheap airport transport.
Which Cities made the cut but I easily could have added?
With this in place, the route started to take shape. I started to notice flight patterns and also noted my excitement or disappointment when adding destinations to the flight plan.
I soon realised that Venice was somewhere I was bending over backwards to fit into the itinerary, so it became a non-negotiable; as did Palma. I wanted to start in Seville as the flight time was really good from Lisbon and some friends agreed to join me for my birthday which was the first day of the trip.
After this I was able to come up with my route.
SEVILLE – PALMA – BARCELONA – VENICE – ROME
I made sure I had a full 24 hours in all of the cities, with the exception of BCN which was a shorter layover (I already visit BCN multiple times a year so I didn’t feel like I was missing out). This decision meant I could spend longer in Venice (which I hadn’t visited for 20 years). I ended the 5 days in Rome because I couldn’t think of a more iconic European run for my last 10km than passing the Colosseum. It was also the best place to meet a friend from Spain who came to celebrate with me after.
Cities that didn’t make the cut
Palermo & Catania. Sicily is my favourite place on the planet but I already had a trip planned to the region a month later.
Cagliari & Alghero (Sardinia) I couldn’t quite get my head around flying to the huge island of Sardinia for only 24 hours.
Valletta (Malta) This one almost made the cut but the flights were getting in so late it was going to mess up transport to the city.
Valencia. This is the one I’m upset about. I couldn’t make it to work. The flight times wouldn’t work with some of the non-negotiables I had. I’ll be back.
Madrid. Very close to adding this and it was doable, but I chose BCN instead. I know BCN better and it made the short day of my trip much smoother.
Bologna. Another close one but I decided my first time visiting Bologna deserves more time. Bologna I’m coming back for you in the winter!
How much did the trip cost?
One of the stipulations of this trip was it needed to be budget-friendly because it was happening during a period of 2 months with a lot of travel and races already in my calendar. The main enabler of this run-travel adventure was the price of the flights. Which were shockingly cheap. All flights including Lisbon return flights (and one night bus) came to a total of €130. Insane.
The average flight cost was €20. Seville – Palma was the cheapest at €12. The most “expensive” was BCN – Venice at €26. The overnight bus from Venice to Rome (6 hours) was €9.
I stayed in budget accommodation everywhere except Rome where I booked a 4 star to celebrate my actual cancerversary date. Accommodation (capsule/hostel style) was between €27 and €44 a night, not including Rome which was 130 for a 4 star double hotel room. It was possible to do it cheaper in some places and plenty of room to bougie it up if you wanted. If you have the budget, then real hotels would make the experience much more relaxing.
Planning a 5 day, 5 cities trip
The level of planning that went into this was intense. When you don’t have much time on the ground, every detail needs to be planned in advance. Scrambling for airport buses after landing is not ideal when you have such limited time. I’m in my element planning itineraries but even for me this was a lot of fine, boring details to sort through to make sure it was going to work smoothly, even with my prior knowledge of the places I was visiting.
After this level of research, you can now consider me a flight connection guru. I know all the airport transport options, time and costs of all major cities in Spain and Italy. This one single trip levelled up my transport knowledge massively.
Why do I consider myself a travel planning expert? Exactly because of this. I live the work I sell. At any given point I have 3-4 trips in planning for myself alongside my client itineraries and trip plans.
Use Skyscanner to search for flights. It’s the best tool on the internet.
Choose your dates (if you are able to be flexible, select your departure month instead).
Choose your From city
Set‘ To’ to ‘Everywhere’ and tick the ‘direct flights’ box
The next page will bring up a page of different cities your departure city flies and from lowest cost
Open the cities you’re interested in, on new pages and compare times and prices
Once the first stage is sorted do exactly the same for the next stage
Planning a 24 hour itinerary for each city
For this 5 day trip I wrote an individual itinerary plan for every city like I do for my itinerary clients, but with only 24 hours, how much of it I could achieve was limited. I took away the pressure of having to do too much and made the main goal of each city the 10km run, knowing that this run would also get me around the city and show me the sites on the move. Anything extra that I saw or did was a bonus.
I already knew Seville and Barcelona really well because I visit every year which made those days much more relaxing. Before this trip, I last visited Venice when I was 18 and this was the place I was most anxious to make the most of the short time I had. Palma was also new to me (even though I have traveled in Mallorca) but the city is more manageable to visit in a shorter time frame. Rome, being at the end and also not my first time to visit, was more of a place to relax. I spent the day after my last run cafe hopping with my friend in the Trastevere neighbourhood knowing full well I’ll visit Rome multiple times in my life.
I spent an obscene amount of time researching every city so that I had multiple options to tap into on arrival without having to think or search too much in that moment (which I usually enjoy). Off the back of that research and my own trip I wrote a series of 24 hour travel guides which, thanks to the nature of the detail orientated research, turned into some of the most comprehensive guides I have written. You can read them below.
24 HOURS IN SEVILLE coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN PALMA coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN BARCELONA coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN VENICE coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN ROME coming soon . . .
How did it go?
The trip was a success. I managed to make it to every city. I had a few short delays but nothing crazy. The trip obviously felt rushed and it was tiring which I expected but it was also so much fun. I found that the adrenaline of always being on the move kept my spirits high and I saw more than I expected in the time that I had. And yes, I completed all the 10km runs. In Barcelona I ended up running an extra 4km so that I didn’t miss my flight to Venice.
The point of this trip was 5 cities in 5 days but if you have the luxury of time then spending at least 48 hours in each city would be a much richer (but still rushed) experience.
Seville : Best experiences
Arriving at Plaza de Espana 4km into our run to see the square in the most beautiful light
Tortilla con Solomillo al whisky sauce at Casa Eme (an absolute gem of a find)
Vermouth and tapas with a twilight view of Setas
Palma : Best experiences
Running along the ocean path to Playa des Penyó
Sea swim in crystal clear sea
Long sunny lunch on the patio at Cafè Es Pes de sa Palla
Barcelona: Best experiences
Sagrada Familiar WITHOUT scaffolding!
Running along the pier under the bluest sky, surrounded by that unbeatable BCN vibe
Post run dip at the beach
Venice : Best experiences
Running into Venice along the Mestre bridge
Ice cold spritz perched on a stone wall next to the canal
Jumping on a random boat at Dorsoduro to see sunset from the water
Rome : Best experiences
Running to a new country (The Vatican) and beating the crowds
Running past the Colosseum and not worrying about queuing to go in because the only plan for the rest of the day was to sip spritz in Trastevere
Afternoon drinks in Trastevere. Trapizzino was the perfect hangout spot
Mouthwatering dinner and expertly selected wine at Vanda
There you have it – my 5 cities, 5 day trip with 50km of running thrown in. I honestly loved it. It exceeded my expectations and despite being very tired I would happily go back and do it again. I’m already plotting the next run travel adventure. Where next?
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy but don’t know where to begin? I’m your gal!
The long-awaited guide for how to plan a 10 day trip to Sicily is here. Sicily is deceptively voluminous, both in landmass and activities. Planning a 10 day itinerary can be overwhelming if you are a first-time visitor. Don’t worry, I’ve got your back. I have accrued months of travel time in Sicily over the years and it remains my most-visited (and favourite) region of Italy. I visit multiple times a year, at all seasons.
See proof below.
P.s that gelato is the best pistachio I’ve ever had (I’ve eaten a lot). You can find it in the legendary Caffetteria Luca in Bronte. Thank me later.
As you can see, I am quite the fan of Sicily and that’s exactly why you can trust me with itinerary planning.
Use this travel guide in conjunction with my other guides and Sicily Travel Map to create a magical but manageable trip to Italy’s most southerly region.
Sicily is no secret (the region receives more than 7 million visitors a year) but often the likes of Rome, Venice and Florence take centre stage for a first-time Italy trip. These cities are, of course, mega stars but also endlessly busy and let’s be honest, overdone. Sicily offers stunning landscapes, ancient sites and cities, breathtaking beaches yet it does it with its own flare. Despite the interest from tourism it refuses to change it’s style. It is the region that ticks every box you can imagine, the only problem is deciding what to fit in.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
How to get to Sicily
Sicily has two international airports Catania and Palermo. It also has several ports linking mainland regions Campania and Calabria by ferry. There is even a ferry route to Malta.
How to get around Sicily
Unless you are sticking to the major cities (Palermo and Catania) then a hire car is the best way to get around Sicily. While the trains and buses are frequent and (fairly) reliable between the main sites, if you want to see the rest of the region then you need 4 (or 2) wheels.
Sicily by Car
Road tripping in Sicily is one of the best experiences you can have and is the best form of transport in the region (unless you are staying only in Palermo and Catania). My personal recommendation for car rental is Zest who I have been using since 2019.
If hiring a car isn’t your thing then consider using a private driver for some of the days on the island to make the most of what’s on offer.
If you are only staying in Palermo or Catania you don’t need a car and I would avoid driving in these cities unless you have to.
I’ve written loads more driving tips for Sicily in my SOUTH ITALY GUIDE.
Sicily by Train
Train rides are possible and decent between the two main cities, outside of this they are slow and cumbersome.
Sicily by Bus
The main cities, towns and airports are connected by bus. Flixbus is popular and good value. Journeys are slower and still much more limited than by car.
Sicily by Boat
Ferries in Sicily are frequent and reliable and reaching the outer-islands is easy. The three ferry companies you will come across in Sicily are:
You truly can visit Sicily at any time of year but shoulder seasons (May/June) and early autumn (September/October) are perfect for any corner of the region.
Peak summer can be very hot and very busy, especially in destinations like Taormina and the Aeolian Islands.
Beach season starts in June – October but you can often find warm, sunny days throughout May and November too. The islands and beach resorts start to close down as autumn arrives and come to a complete standstill in mid-winter.
Palermo and Catania can be visited at any time of year and are the best choice for a festive trip.
Road trips are rewarding year round but June or September/ October are wonderful. Hiking and outdoor adventures are the same.
Planning a Trip to Sicily
Sicily may well be a top destination for travellers in Europe but it is one of the more challenging regions to explore logistically. It’s much bigger than people realise and getting from one side of the island to the other can feel like a chore if you don’t have much time to do it. Public transport out of the major cities is poor and roads outside of the main cities can be arduous.
Here’s the thing : even if you get all the logistics right, fitting everything in is a challenge. The most important tip I can give you (and this applies everywhere) is to not try and fit too much in one trip. If you are moving from one place to another every day you’re going to miss out on the real joy of Sicily.
Sicily is like a giant theme park of sites and activities, markets, mountains, beaches, islands, vineyards… the possible itinerary stops are endless. The best thing you can do with 10 days is narrow it down to your non-negotiables and then really dive into those.
I’m going to share a common or popular 10 day itinerary which you can use as a starting point but I recommend spending some time researching (there is lots of extra info about individual towns, cities and islands on this website) before committing to it 100%.
Best 10 day Sicily Itinerary
The idea of a best 10 day itinerary is a false promise. The best itinerary for you will be a mix of places that match your travel style and preferences. It could be fast-paced, moving every day with lots of stops, perhaps a road trip. Or it could look like exploring 1 or 2 locations much more deeply in a slow travel style.
Maybe you’re in Sicily for the architecture and history? Maybe you’re there for the food? Perhaps you’re there to hike Etna or island-hop.
Sicily Travel Map
Looking for the best places to visit in Sicily all in one place? The Sicily Travel Map has more than 150 pins to help you plan a meaningful trip. I created this map to inspire your itinerary and make planning easier. The map includes a food guide, authentic restaurants, trattorias and osterias, the best spots for aperitivo, road trip ideas, cities, islands, remote beaches, hiking trails and areas of natural beauty. Local activities and genuine experiences. Everything you need, for the cost of one pizza. Mamma Mia!
There is not one 10 day itinerary that fits all. If you want to make sure you are making the most of what Sicily has to offer in a way that aligns with you, book a travel consultation.
If you want a truly personalised experience but don’t have the time or inclination to research and pull together a full itinerary, I can do it for you.
If you’re at the beginning of your Sicily itinerary search, keep on reading.
A Classic 10 day Sicily Itinerary
Start in Palermo. End in Catania. Rental Car.
Days 1 -3 Palermo with day trip to Trapani or
Day 4 Agrigento
Days 5 -6 Ortigia including ½ day trip to Noto with wine tasting or Modica
Days 7-10 Taormina with ½ day trip to Catania and ½ day trip to Etna
Day 1
Arrive in Palermo. If it’s still early, get straight to Ballarò market to immerse yourself in the true Sicilian spirit and an energy like no other. Load up a plate of street food (dare you to try the Pani ca Meusa) and soak up Palermo in full swing.
Palermo where to stay:
Casa Normanna | 1 bedroom apartment with original features, small balcony and equipped kitchenette. Central but quiet location
Curate your own food tour or book in with Culinary Backstreets. (Code CANDY5 will get you 5% off). Book a traditional puppet show, a dying but undeniably beautiful art.
Day 3
Day trip to hike Zingaro natural park, 7km of coastal path and coves. Bring your swimwear. (by Car)
Or take a full day trip to Trapani where you can take a short ferry to Favignana. Rent rusty bikes and cycle round the island diving in and out of coves and petting donkeys. (bus and ferry).
Taormina : Morning coffee and granita at the infamous Bam Bar. Do yourself a favour and get a mix of fragola (strawberry) and mandola (almond). Take the cable car down to Isola Bella for the afternoon.
Catania: Cathedral and church-hop your way around the city, ending with aperitivo in a lively piazza.
Day 9
Day trip to the magnificent Etna either with a guide or by car. Or circumnavigate the volcano stopping at wineries along the way. Pistachio lovers make a b-line for Bronte and the gelato at the iconic Caffetaria Lucca.
Day 10
If you have time before departure head to the lesser known Aci-Trezza for some seaside calm or head into Acrireale (avoid rush hour) for a local cafe experience.
Find Accommodation in Sicily
An Alternative 10 day Sicily Itinerary
If you’ve already seen the main sites or you want to do something different, you’re in luck. Sicily has something for everyone and the possibilities are endless.
North Coast & Islands
Day 1-3
Trapani (1h from Palermo Airport) and Egadi islands (make sure you book a boat trip in Marettimo with Pippo).
Baglio Sorìa 10km from Trapani but worth a look if you’d like some rural luxury
Favignana where to stay
If you’re looking for somewhere simple to stay : Terra del Sole holiday apartments in the centre of town. If you’d like hotel facilities or a little more luxury try Villa Rocce Bianche
Make a brief one night stop at the hidden gem Castlebuono. (by car only)
Day 7-9
Drive to the most easterly point. Take a ferry from Messina to Salina island (Aeolians), stay in Leni. Spend two days barely scratching the surface but just enough to make you immediately book your next trip to see the rest of the 9 islands.
If you’re a coastal lover and are hoping for some beach time while in Sicily. You are in luck. The region has a stunning coastline to explore. Better still, Sicily’s outer-islands are spectacular examples of mini paradises. The major Aeolians aside, many of the islands still feel wonderfully untouched by modern tourism.
So there you have it, a few 10 day itinerary options for Sicily. Remember travel is highly personal and deserves more than a ‘copy & paste’ itinerary. Check out my other Sicily travel guides below to help with your planning. If you’d like to work with a specialist trip planner on your itinerary, book a call.
Next South Italy Trip: October 2026 This guide has been a long time coming…
November 12, 2025
Human Travel Planning. No AI here.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
Welcome to yet another Sicily guide. If this is your first time visiting my page, I’m an independent travel planner for Italy, Portugal & Spain. Sicily is one of my most visited destinations on earth and my favourite escape so it features a lot around here. I visit several times a year and have built up months worth of travel in Sicily including its outer islands.
Looking for a beach holiday in Sicily? You’re in luck. Sicily’s mainland is borderd by beaches from swooping swathes of sand to tiny, impossibly picturesque coves to unexplored stretches of coast. You don’t have to hop on a boat to visit these beaches but to reach most of them you do need a car.
Once you’ve ticked off that box you’re ready to start exploring. This post focuses on the islands of Sicily but here’s a list of beaches on the mainland you should also add to your itinerary. This is by no means an exhaustive list. Use it as a springboard to your Sicily beaches research and trip planning.
Zingaro natural park (7km of wild coastline with secluded coves)
Scopello
Mondello
Aspra
Sant’Elia
Cefalù
Capo d’Orlando
East Coast Beaches
From north to south
Punta Faro
Mazzaro/Isola Bella (Taormina)
Aci Castello / Aci Trezza
Cala Rossa (Ortigia)
Accessible Beaches in Sicily
Sicily has a number of accessible beaches available. San Vito Lo Capo offering the most services. It is advisable to contact/ book in advance. Services may not be available during the winter season (Nov -April).
As you can see Sicily is a dream for beach lovers without stepping foot off the island but if you want to experience the best of Sicily you need to visit its multiple archipelagos.
Sicily Travel Map
Looking for the best places to visit in Sicily all in one place? The Sicily Travel Map has more than 150 pins to help you plan a meaningful trip. I created this map to inspire your itinerary and make planning easier. The map includes a food guide, authentic restaurants, trattorias and osterias, the best spots for aperitivo, road trip ideas, cities, islands, remote beaches, hiking trails and areas of natural beauty. Local activities and genuine experiences. Everything you need, for the cost of one pizza. Mamma Mia!
The region of Sicily is also the largest island in the Mediterranean and one of Italy’s most popular travel destinations, and with good reason. However what many who visit don’t realise is – Sicily is so much more than Palermo, Cefalú, Catania and Valley of the Temples. While most people have heard of the Aeolians and some visit the volcanic island of Stromboli, very few venture outside of this when it comes to the islands.
Best islands to visit in Sicily
If you are a beach aficionado, sun chaser or natural beauty lover you need to come and spend some time on the islands of Sicily. Which ones? Let me break it down so you can decide.
Sicily’s Ferries – Getting to the islands of Sicily
Sicily has very reliable and frequent ferry connections to most of its outer islands. The exception being the Pelagie islands which are easier and more convenient to reach by plane. The three ferry companies you will come across in Sicily are:
The Aeolian islands are Sicily’s most well-known archipelago and definitely some of the best islands in in the region, Italy and ya know what? maybe even the world. Home to not one but two active volcanos, the islands are more than just beaches and blue and they sure do draw an international crowd. Even so, few people actually spend time getting to know any of the islands, especially the smaller ones. The islands are often a rushed add-on by boat trip which is the biggest mistake you can make because there is so much more to these 7 gems than you might think.
Lipari
Salina
Vulcano
Stromboli
Panarea
Filicudi
Alicudi
Getting to the Aeolian islands / Isole Eoli
Liberty Lines ferries run daily year-round from Messina and Milazzo. There are also seasonal ferries from Calabria during the summer months.
Aeolian Islands – Island Hopping
It is possible to hop between islands but if you want to reach several it takes some clever logistic planning. It’s not possible to visit all the islands in one day. Most people choose 2 or 3 islands to visit. Usually choosing one base such as Lipari or Salina and doing day trips out from there. This is a wise choice if you have limited time. If you have more time to play with (a week or more) I would split your time between a larger island (Lipari/Salina) and one of the more remote islands (Alicudi/Filicudi) for a more varied experience.
Vulcano, Lipari and Salina are close and you can easily visit each of them as a day trip from the others. Stromboli is the furthest and takes the longest to reach from mainland Sicily. Stromboli’s closest island is Panarea which can be combined for a day trip. Alicudi and Filicudi are the most remote. Filicudi can be reached directly from Salina and Lipari. Alicudi from Filicudi and Lipari.
Stromboli is closer to Calabria than Sicily. There are seasonal ferries to the Aeolian islands from Calabria and Naples.
When to Visit the Aeolian islands
Spring and early autumn are a good time to visit the Aeolian islands, when the islands are open but tourism is not at its peak. During the summer months the islands are crowded. The bigger islands such as Lipari can handle the crowds. Accommodation on smaller islands can sell out during the summer months so book in advance.
It’s possible to experience Salina and Lipari in the winter (with highly reduced services) and if you enjoy peace and nature it can be very rewarding. I spent 4 days in Salina at the end of December. Almost everything was closed but I found a sea-view villa (see photo below) with a kitchen for a fraction of the cost. I cooked my own meals and ate them with 5 star views. It was a unique and wonderful experience that I recommend if you don’t mind feeling remote. Lipari has the most services year round and you’ll find some restaurants still open. The smaller islands shut down completely and it is almost impossible to find accommodation on Filicudi, Alicudi and Panarea during these months.
How long to spend on the Aeolian islands
To visit 1 or 2 islands try 3-4 days. If you want to visit all the islands you need 5-7 days and even that is very rushed. Instead of aiming to see all 7 in one trip, choose 2 to base yourself and make day trips from there to some of the other islands.
You can do a day trip to one or 2 islands from Sicily or Calabria but it’s really worth staying overnight if you can.
Where to stay on the Aeolian islands
It depends what vibe you are looking for. Lipari is the biggest and has the most services, with a lively centre with restaurants and nightlife. Salina is also developed with a nice mix of small towns and natural beauty. For a relaxed, stripped back experience try Alicudi or Filicudi. For an exclusive feel (during the summer), try Panarea.
These islands are more about being than doing. Exploring with no plan is the name of the game but if you’d like a few activities to slip into your aeolian itinerary here is some ideas:
Swimming in Pollara, Salina
Browsing artisan shops and a visit to Fenech winery in Malfa, Salina
Scooter ride through the middle of the island from Rinella to Pollara
Wine tasting at Tenuta di Castellaro, Lipari
Boat trip around Vulcano
Sunset trek Stromboli
Hike to Capo Graziano, Filicudi
Visit the tiny village of Pecorini A Mare, Filicudi
Hike to the top of Alicudi Filo dell’ Arpa (675m)
Dinner with a view of Filicudi at Il club di Lea, Alicudi
Isole Egadi / Aegadian Islands
Welcome to my favourite archipelago and some of the best islands to visit in Sicily – Isole Egadi. This trio is satisfyingly accessible yet still untouched by international tourism. The islands are all so different from each other that you don’t need to venture anywhere else. Stay a while.
Favignana
Marettimo
Levanzo
Favignana is the main hub offering a lively and fun nightlife in addition to the stunning beaches and coves. Levanzo is postcard pretty and Marettimo is a natural, almost completely undisturbed paradise.
I spent 6 days in Favignana cycling the island, diving in and out of calas and making friends with the local donkeys during September. It was one of my best island trips and I wrote a full travel guide about it.
Liberty Lines and Sirenmar ferries run daily year-round from Trapani and Marsala.
When to Visit the Aegadian islands
These islands are summer islands and best visited from May to the end of October. If you want to risk the weather you can also visit in November. Favignana is the main hub with the most services and the best place to be based.
How long to spend on the Aegadian islands
You can visit all 3 of the islands as a day trip from Trapani but – and you know what I’m going to say by this point don’t you? – please stay. The magic of these islands is found by staying a few days. I spent almost a week on Favignana and did day trips to Marettimo (including a boat trip) and Levanzo. I easily could have stayed another week here. I loved it so much i started looking for apartments to rent during the winter.
Where to stay on the Aegadian islands
Favignana is the main hub with the most services and the best place to be based throughout the year, especially out of season. Levanzo is very small with not that much to do and without many beach options so is not really the best place to be based. Marettimo is the island if you’re looking for a wilderness escape (hiking etc)
Jump on a boat trip with Pippo in Marettimo to circumnavigate the otherwise inaccessible coves. The colour of the water here is so blue it almost hurts your eyes.
Sunset at A Leva, Favignana
Cycle the island (extra points without an electric bike) and lean into the ridiculously laid back vibe.
Take a ferry to Levanzo port for a spritz and panino at the tiny but excellent bakery Panetteria La Chicca. Share the pretty view with the island cats.
Isole Pelagie / Pelagie Islands
The Pelagie islands are some of the least known islands in Italy, staying firmly under the radar for most but I promise when you set sight on these islands you’ll understand why they are some of the best to visit in Sicily.
Lampedusa
Linosa
Lampedua is the most southerly point of Italy and Europe and the island is closer to Tunisia than it is Sicily which gives it extra points on the remote scale. The island is a contrast of a desolate rocky landscape fringed with sparkling coves and fine sand beaches dipping into every shade of blue you can imagine.
I’ve written a travel guide specifically for Lampedusa that can help you plan your trip to Isole Pelagie.
The Pelagie islands of Lampedusa and Linosa are also reachable by ferry from Porto Empedocle but it takes longer. Flying into Lampedusa is more convenient and flights are daily from Palermo and Catania. During summer you can also find direct flights from Milan and Rome. To reach Linosa you will need to take a ferry from Lampedusa.
When to Visit the Pelagie islands
The pelagies are summer holiday islands, best experienced in the summer months but you can also visit in the shoulder seasons for a more relaxed version. I visited in October and the weather was plenty warm and the beaches just the right amount of busy.
How long to spend on the Pelagie islands
Lampedusa is a popular holiday destination for Italians who come and spend a week or two here for their summer holidays. The islands are small so less time works too. You can see everything in Lampedusa in 4 days but that’s not really the point. The islands are best enjoyed at a slow pace.
Where to stay on the Pelagie islands
The island is only small and it’s easy to visit all corners regardless of where you stay (if you have transport) but depending on your needs and the atmosphere you are looking for there are a few choices to pick from but my choice was Cala Guitgia, just a one minute walk from the beach.
Swimming in the paradise that is Spiaggia dei Conigli
Sunset drinks at bar H, a unique experience
Granita from the iconic Bar dell’Amicizia
Isola Ustica – Ustica
Ustica is unbelievably undiscovered. Forgotten or ignored by many but if you want a real island escape away from the crowds, this is it. I haven’t visited Ustica yet, so I don’t feel equipped to give you all the info but I have done a lot of research for my trip and here’s what I found. I’ll update more soon.
Getting to the Ustica island
Liberty Lines ferries run daily year-round from Palermo and take around 1h30.
When to Visit the Ustica
Between May and September
How long to spend on the Ustica
You can easily do a day trip from Palermo but stay a few days to really soak up the peace and quiet. This is the type of place to come and switch off the phone. Take long walks, read books, dip your feet in and out of the water.
Ustica is known to be one of the best places to dive in Italy thanks to the incredible marine life surrounding the island. You can also complete a PADI course on the island. Check out Orca Diving for more details.
Is that all the islands of Sicily? Nope, there are a few secrets still waiting to be uncovered by you (and me). After Ustica I plan on filling my cup at the remote islands on Pantelleria. As soon as that’s happened I’ll be sharing with you but until then some of the best islands of Sicily are already here in writing, ready to add to your itinerary. Happy planning!
If you don’t have the time to plan a trip and you want an in-depth, one of a kind itinerary that’s what I’m here for.
Talking of islands. . . have you heard of the La Maddalena Islands right at the tippy top of Sardinia? Bliss.
Visiting Sicily as part of a bigger south Italy trip including Calabria, Basilicata and Campania? I’ve written a huge South Italy trip planning guide to get you started.
You almost certainly didn’t see it here first. Isola di Procida was named ‘Italian Captial of Culture’ in 2022 – bravo! Even with this title, Procida is usually swapped for glitzy Capri or larger Ischia. Those that do choose to visit ‘the underdog’ of Campania, usually only visit on a day trip.
The island has been on my list for so long, ever since I saw a photo of Marina di Corricella in 2018 in all its pastel glory. It’s usually an add-on day trip from Naples or Ischia but I wanted to get to know Procida overnight and beyond so I spent 4 days on the island. It easily could have been 7.
Visiting Procida as part of a bigger southern Italy trip?
Procida, along with Ischia is part of the Phlegraean Islands of Naples, and part of the bigger Campanian archipelago which includes Capri
How to get to Procida
From Naples airport to the port
Take an Alibus direct to the port €5 per journey
By Ferry
There are several ferry companies you can use to reach the Campanian archipelago. You can choose from a ferry (1 hour from Naples, car-friendly, cheaper) or a fast-boat (40 minutes from Naples, slightly more expensive).
How long to spend in Procida
Most people visit as a day trip from Naples or Ischia. Very few people use it as a base but whatever time you’re visiting I can recommend spending a few days. Procida is a working island, not only in tourism , so there are things to do year round. I spent 4 days and 4 nights on Procida and I easily could have stayed longer. Having said this, if your itinerary only allows for a day trip, go for a day trip. You can still see the best bits of the island in a day. Don’t skip a late lunch at the marina.
Visiting Procida in the off-season – what to expect
Even more encouraging is that I visited in November, the off season, and although some restaurants were closed, there was plenty of atmosphere on the island. I can’t quite believe I’m saying it but the (albeit single track) roads were actually busy. Proof that local life exists outside of tourism.
Some restaurants and shops close and some have limited hours but by no means does the island shut down. The restaurants and cafes that are open are the ones the locals are eating at. Some of the marina restaurants were closed because this is mostly for tourists. The bonus is that the ones that are open are blissfully quiet so you can pull up a front row seat to the ocean and watch the fisherman fix nets while you sip on your aperol in the sun.
The island does start cooling down quickly in the winter so sea swimming is not accessible for most but if you have the appropriate clothing you can still head out for sunset beach walks. My biggest advice for the off season is to stay closer to the port because the west of the island can feel quite remote.
How to get around Procida
The island is tiny (4km2)but it is very helpful to have a vehicle since the areas to visit are spread quite far apart. The roads are very narrow and can get quite busy at certain times of day so I don’t advise a car unless you have to transport kids. Most people get around with electric bikes and scooters which work perfectly well for the island.
Important: Non-residents are not allowed to bring cars to the island.
Where to stay in Procida
If you are coming in season and you want something a little calmer then renting an apartment closer to Ciraccio beach is a good idea, or if you’d prefer to be walking distance to the main area of restaurants and bars then stay on the port side.
If you’re coming in the off-season I recommend staying closer to the port where the main street is so that you don’t feel too isolated.
ALMALO Floating House – Yes it’s a boat house, and it would be a really unique stay and memorable on Procida
Casa Sul Mare – Double rooms, some with gorgeous sea views
Ciraccio Apartments – spacious apartments in the western side of the island, with all the amenities you ened. These would be great to give you peace during the busier months but I stayed here during November and it felt too remote
Where to eat in Procida
A Puteca – this was my favourite find. Small market and restaurant offering huge plates of roasted veggies, meats and other freshly made goodies. They also have delicious coffee. Super friendly service too.
La Lampara – one of the “famous” restaurants mostly because of the view of the marina but receives plenty of positive reviews for food too.
Cala Cala – upscale foodie experience. Not open during winter.
Caracalè – Right next to the water within touching distance of the colourful fishing boats . They do a daily special which is targeted at tourists but the food quality is high.
Ristorante Sottosopra – family-run restaurant close to the port
Hook – the place to feast on crispy fried seafood and freshly made burgers
Best Aperitivo in Procida
Ciraccio all but shuts down during winter so check in advance if aperitivo is still available on this side of the island.
Hotel La Vigna (East of Corricella)
Hotel Solcalante (Ciraccio) – sunset view
Vivara (Ciraccio) – sunset view
Bar Capriccio (port)
Maresia (Ciraccio) – sunset view
Best coffee, gelato and pastries in Procida
Saint Rock (Corricella) – Gelato bar of dreams
Paname forno Indipendente (port) – sadly this was closed during my visit so I didn’t get to try but it seems to be the only place on Procida that offers specialty coffee.
La Panetteria – Homely bakery with all the typical baked goods
What to do in Procida
Viewpoint / Marina di Corricella
Let’s start here because let’s be honest – this is why you’re here. While you’re at the view point, also wander through the fortified village of Terra Murta. The marina developed as a natural harbour and remains a working fishing village. There are various stories about the coloured buildings but one of the most popular is that they helped fisherman find their way back home.
When you leave the viewpoint follow the steps down to the marina from the same side. Walk along the marina and back up one of 3 other staircases. Weaving around the stacked houses and under arches is one of the best experiences.
If you are here for a few days it’s worth coming at different times of day so you can appreciate the colours in different lights. In peak summer months this is the busiest place to come for lunch and dinner so it’s advisable to book a table in advance if there is a restaurant you are set on visiting.
Lunch with the fishing boats
Marina di Corricella is the best place for a leisurely lunch on the island. While the restaurants on the marina do cater mostly to tourists, Corricella is a working fishing village and at any point in time you are likely to see fishing boats coming and going, fixing nets, offloading the catch of the day. Grabbing a front row table at the marina restaurants is a surefire way to enjoy a moment of harmony with the island.
Buy art from local legend & artist Luigi Nappa
This was a completely accidental find and a place I probably wouldn’t have found during the summer as I would have been on the beaches more. This cavern of colour is home to local artist and legend Luigi Nappa. Luigi grew up on the tiny island but went out to explore the big wide world, became a captain, and settled in Australia. One can only imagine the stories he has, but he never forgot his home island and continues to return for periods of time with renewed inspiration from the world. If his story wasn’t enough to make you want to take a peek, Luigi’s art will be. Just like Corricella the walls are stacked with mood-boosting palettes.
I can’t guarantee he’ll be there when you visit because when I spoke with him he said he was thinking about heading back to Australia, which makes the discovery feel even more special. You can learn more about Luigi and his colourful life here.
Sunset at Ciraccio beach
The long swathe of sand on the west of the island is known as Spiggia di Ciraccio. It feels mostly wild, especially at the east end but to the west end of the beach you’ll find some small bars and restaurants. The beach is a magical place to watch the sunset as the sun dips behind Ischia.
If you’re one of those people who can’t resist a remote island adventure welcome to the club. If you haven’t visited Sicily yet, add it to your plans immediately and check out this guide.
As small as she is, Procida has her own natural reserve island. Vivara natural park is an asset the island is very proud of, and so she should be. Vivara is the remains of a volcano which can be seen from the crescent shape and with 3km in length and 109m of elevation it creates interesting topography. The island hosts migratory birds and is home to an array of marine biodiversity and wildlife. If you want to visit, you can only go during certain times of the week, and only with a guide. A visit costs €10. For more information and to book, go to the official site here.
Eat a Lingua di Procida
If you know any Italian you’ll know Lingua is the word for tongue. The local treat also goes by the name of lingue di bue (ox tongues) so I immediately wrote it off as something I would try (spleen and lung sandwich in Palermo was enough offal for a lifetime thanks). That was until I read a little further and was pleasantly surprised. The procida made lingua is a crispy pastry filled with cream and lemons! Now we’re talking. You can find them in various pasticcerias all over the island but Bar Roma is said to be one of the longest running institutions.
Take a day trip to Ischia
Yes it’s usually the other way around but if you are using Procida as a base you can easily hop on a ferry to Ischia for the day. Caremar runs frequent ferries (40 mins) and fastboats (15 mins) from port to port. Once in Ischia you can either rent a scooter (the island is much bigger than Procida so if you want to cover distance and electric bike won’t cut it) or stay in the immediate vicinity. Around the port you have a historical centre with shops and restaurants. Follow the road next to the beach all the way to the Aragonese bridge and castle. It’s a wonderful area to spend an afternoon. I highly recommend picking up a Rum ‘Baba’ from Raffaele.
That’s all I have to share for now but hopefully it can help get your trip planning off the ground. If you’re looking for some extra help planning your Italy itinerary, I’m just your gal to build it.
Procida island was a real treat at the end of a 2 week southern Italy road trip for me. I wasn’t sure what to expect visiting at the time I did but the island was much more than I was hoping for. It’s the type of place I could happily spend a few weeks so I’ll definitely be back. Happy Planning!
This guide has been a long time coming but only now, after 5 years worth of trips around the Mezzogiorno do I feel equipped to help you build a complete (and totally epic) south Italy trip itinerary. In this guide you will find the best places to visit in South Italy and how exactly to string them all together to make the trip of a lifetime.
If you’re here, you’re probably starting or mid-way through your travel planning for one of Europe’s most travelled countries. You’re probably really excited about the prospect of diving into the warmth and charm of the southern regions of Italy? And I’ll take a wild guess, and say you are probably also completely overwhelmed? Don’t worry I’m about to make your planning a little bit easier.
Italy. It’s a biggie huh? Famous worldwide for so many reasons. The trouble is when you get past the initial ideas – Go to Rome, go to Florence, go to Naples, eat pizza, see old stuff, see a volcano; and start getting your teeth into the details, you realise just how big of a task it is to create an itinerary. The first hurdle is to accept that it is impossible to see and do it all.
Let. That. Idea. Go.
Well done. Now we begin.
Who am I and why am I telling you how to plan a trip to south Italy?
I’m a travel planner, by profession but mostly by passion. British born, but living in Portugal since 2016 and building & navigating trips around the world since a long time before then. If you spend some time snooping around this website, you’ll see that since making Portugal home I’ve fallen head over heels with southern Europe and spend all of my time bouncing around Portugal, Spain and Italy.
My travel guide collection is growing month by month and I’ve become rather good at planning other people’s adventures in this corner of the world. This guide will help you greatly with your upcoming trip to south Italy but if you need some extra help or don’t have the time to put together a complete itinerary – I can do it for you.
For planning purposes Southern, or more correctly South Italy is one of 5 statistical regions or macroregions of Italy. It comprises 8 regions – Abruzzo, Apulia, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, and Molise and the islands of Sicily and Sardinia.
How to Use This Travel Guide
This guide has everything you need to plan a trip to Southern Italy, but you will need to put the pieces together to make an itinerary that works for your situation and time frame. I’ve broken down the planning sections and regions, it’s up to you to pull it back together to fit your needs.
Tips for planning a trip to Southern Italy
Less is more.
Slow travel when possible.
Learn to go with the flow.
Eat everything.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
How long to spend in Southern Italy
The correct answer is – whatever time you have. The longer you have the more you can cover and the deeper you can go. If you have unlimited time and money then 3+ months is a good time frame to cover all the regions in South Italy and get a real taste of what the mezzogiorno is about. Sadly, the majority of us don’t have that timeframe and if that’s you too, don’t worry. It is possible to touch on most of the southern regions in 3+ weeks but not both Sardinia AND Sicily. Less than 3 weeks and you need to start cutting out a few regions so as not to lose the quality of the trip. Remember, less is more.
Itinerary Ideas for South Italy
3 months in Southern Italy:
1 month in Sicily including outer islands, 2 weeks in Calabria and Basilicata, 10 days in Apulia, 10 days in Campania, 3 weeks in Sardinia.
3 weeks in Southern Italy
1 week Sicily including 1 Aeolian island, starting in Palermo for the north coast or Catania for the east OR north/south Sardinia , 6 days driving through Calabria including an overnight in Basilicata, 4 days in Puglia, 4 days in Campania for whistle stop Amalfi OR Capri/Ischia with an overnight in Naples before flying out.
2 weeks in Southern Italy
Pick 2 cities, Palermo and Naples for example, then decide if you want a beach and islands trip, mountain trip or small villages trip and make a route between the two. Avoid one night stays because the driving distance means you won’t get a lot of time to enjoy the stops.
Less than 2 weeks in Southern Italy?
Pick one or two regions, no more. For example Sicily and Calabria OR Puglia and Campania and then within those regions pick 1 or 2 places to visit, no more. For example Palermo & Trapani in Sicily, Reggio Calabria & Tropea in Calabria. You can also add a stop on the way between the two regions.
Outside of the bigger cities a car is going to give you the most freedom and ability to see more places in a shorter time frame. It is also possible to use trains between Sicily and Campania if you are open to a much slower experience and skipping some areas.
Getting to/from Southern Italy
International airports that make sense for a south Italy trip are Naples and Palermo or Catania which place you either at the top or bottom of the region. Rome is another workable option because it is well connected with Naples. If Sardinia is going to be on your itinerary , you could also start or end here, but which airport depends on how much of the island you plan to see.
Getting around Southern Italy
All the options are available (flights, car, bus, train, ferry, fishing boat, bicycle, scooter) and if you are crossing multiple regions in the south then you will likely use a mix of them. Which, depends on your preferences and route. I think it is good to realise early on that to see and experience the best of south Italy you need a car, and to give you the most freedom and flexibility to go with the flow it should be driven by you.
Driving and Road Trip Tips in South Italy
I’ve had my fair share of driving adventures, bumps and scratches, and broken keys in scooter locks in remote towns on Christmas morning (did I not tell you about that one?) and although I’m no expert I’ve learnt through personal experience the tips and tricks of navigating the southern Italian roads.
Firstly, to put some rumors to bed. Every time I travel somewhere in southern Europe people claim the drivers there are the “worst in the world”. Having now driven cars and scooters around much of southern Europe there is no worse place. I’ve had negative/scary experiences in all of them and I’ve also had positive and easy driving in all of them. There are some places I categorically can tell you are harder to drive in than others (Palermo & Naples) but the truth no one wants to hear is there are good and bad drivers everywhere.
Both busy cities and small/hilltop towns come with driving challenges. The busy cities like Palermo, Catania, Salerno, Naples etc are hubs for working locals who can navigate their cities with their eyes closed and horns blaring. When this meshes with first-time visitors who don’t understand the signs or know the rules (imaginary or not) things can get interesting. This is why I don’t recommend driving a car in these places. Scooters can sometimes be easier for navigating busy cities but if you have never driven or have limited experience with scooters, this is not the place to learn.
Small villages/ hilltop towns are tricky for different reasons – narrow streets and crazy parking. For most small towns, especially those in interior sections of the regions, using a car is unavoidable but it is important to learn how to make it easier for yourself.
Since the majority of my trips to Italy have been with a car I can confirm that it is the best way to see most of the country, especially the south. So buckle up.
Tips for Driving in the Southern Regions of Italy
If it looks too narrow, it is too narrow.
If it is your first time driving in southern Europe, avoid driving in Naples and Palermo
If you have experience driving in southern Europe, avoid driving in Naples
If you have never ridden a scooter before, do not choose south Italy for your first time
If you have ridden a scooter before, avoid Naples
If you have to drive in Naples, drive with confidence and watch out for scooters on both sides
Keep some coins/cash on you for rogue toll booths without card machines
ZTL zones change depending on where you are, the time of day and time of the year. Read the signs before passing through.
These tips are not designed to scare you or put you off. Believe me, if I can drive solo in south Italy anyone can.
Riding a Scooter in Southern Italy
Imagine everything that can go wrong but with less protection. Be very careful riding a scooter in busy cities. I do not recommend learning to ride a scooter in South Italy. Where I do recommend a scooter (if you have experience) is coastal areas such as Salento in Apulia or islands like Favignana and Lampedusa. The slow travel spots are perfect with a scooter – these trips harness the dolce far niente spirit that we all aspire to. Wear a helmet.
Renting a car in Southern Italy
Previous to my most recent trip I have been using Zest to rent my cars in Italy (and Portugal and Spain) but in 2025 Discover reached out to me and offered me credit to use on a rental. There was no expectation from them for me to write anything about this but I want to share my honest review of using them.
I had an overall positive experience. The website and search function is very easy to use and it shows you the real price upfront – no surprises at checkout! I loved the filters for getting to exactly what I needed. The free cancellation was useful because I did end up needing to cancel and change my dates which was super easy to do. I opted for the full insurance (highly recommended for peace of mind) which was much cheaper than paying for it with the hire company directly. Discover is a broker company so you’re seeing all the rental companies in one place. I went with Alamo, based on great reviews. Alamo was good; staff waited for me when my flight was 2 hours delayed, they also let me keep my car in their car park in Palermo airport overnight which saved me a lot of stress. The car itself was fine but it was very dirty and there was no windscreen wash which felt a little unreasonable. This was the fault of Alamo and nothing to do with Discover but worth knowing. Overall the experience was great and I will use Discover for my Italy trips from now on.
I rented a small B class car (Fiat Panda) and it was great for small parking spaces but for the mountainous roads of Basilicata and extra comfort for the longer driving days with hindsight I would chose the next class up. Avoid anything too bulky if you’re planning on visiting smaller towns and villages where parking spaces are small and limited.
Driving / Parking Rules in Southern Italy
Beware of the ZTL – these increasingly complex timed-driving rules apply differently from town to town so you never really know what’s going on. Pay close attention to the ZTL sign at the entrance of whichever town or village you are visiting. Confusingly if it is red it usually means you can drive through because red signals ZTL is currently off. If it’s green – do not pass, or face a fine.
When parking in southern Italy, look out for the coloured lines.
White usually indicates free parking but always check for possible time limitations.
Blue is paid parking. Pay at the machine (bring cash) and display the ticket on the window face up. Rarely parking is free on certain times or days which should be indicated on the machine.
Yellow is resident/ taxi parking – don’t park here.
Regions/ Destinations you do and don’t need a car
Most places in south Italy are best explored with a vehicle so that you don’t have to rely on limited or non-existent public transport but there are some places that you categorically don’t need a car. In fact there are some destinations that are more awkward or stressful with one.
In Sicily I advise against using a car in Palermo and Catania. The city is best explored by foot and is a very chaotic version of Italian driving. The next consideration is the islands. The Aeolians and Egadi islands have a strict no rental car policy. You can rent on some of the islands but you cannot bring a rental car onto the islands from the mainland. The pelagie islands also do not allow you to bring cars. Lampedusa is best explored by scooter or electric bike (which you can rent on the island).
In Calabria, if you don’t mind some seriously slow travel you can use the train to go up the west coast which stops at various seaside towns. Outside of this you need a car especially if you want to explore the wild interior. Remote, Basilicata is the same – without a car it’s almost impossible.
Puglia is best traveled through using a car. If you are only visiting Bari and the very pretty but very popular Polignano a Mare, then you can use the train. Outside of this I recommend a car. Avoid driving in Polignano, especially in season. The only way to experience Salento is by car, or for an immersive experience, a scooter. This remote part of Italy would be very difficult without your own wheels. The national park in the north also needs a car.
The majority of Campania is best without a car. The Amalfi coast is nothing short of overrun on the best of days and trying to navigate the busy coastal roads for the first time is a stressful event to avoid at all costs. Make the most of the buses and ferries to explore the peninsular. Naples – if you think Palermo is bad, do not drive in Naples. If you have never driven in Palermo, also don’t drive in Naples. Ischia allows you to arrive with a car, Capri does not.
Train Travel in Southern Italy
It is possible to travel through some of South Italy by train. Some connections are quicker than others but you’ll need to practice patience if you are using train as your main mode of transport. I typically book trains via Trainline because I find the app easy to use and store tickets, but you can also book direct and you will avoid a small booking fee.
Ferries & Island Hopping in Southern Italy
The main ferry lines you’ll see in South Italy are Liberty lines, Caronte & Tourist and Sirenmar.
Best Places to Visit in Southern Italy -Build Your Itinerary
Years worth of travel and deep research as a planner has led me here. A run down of the best places to visit in South Italy. In this section of the travel guide you can find the best regions, cities, villages, islands, beaches in Italy’s south.
While two regions are still missing from my repertoire and there are some destinations left unvisited (an impossible task even for a lifetime when it comes to Italy) I have a solid base of travel experience in south Italy. If you’re a newbie to Italy this guide will absolutely help you with planning a trip that highlights not just the main attractions but the hidden corners of the south too.
Sicily
Let’s start right at the bottom. The most southerly, and largest region of Italy is also one of the most recognised.
A region I also refer to as Mi amore…Sicilia.
If you want to get up close and personal with Sicily, check out my other guides too.
Quite possibly the travel love of my entire life, Sicily pulls me back trip after trip, with its seemingly neverending facets to uncover. This richly diverse island is firmly on the Italian tourist trail yet despite this, few people venture beyond Palermo, Catania, Taormina and Aeolian superstars like Stromboli. With more than 1000km of coast (1500km if you include the islands), a vast interior woven with agricultural land and natural parks, ancient historical sites, remote island paradises and among the friendliest people in Italy. It really has it all. When you think of Sicily you may think of tempestuous Etna, stories of the Mafia, or the golden arancini balls, but the true magic and character of Sicily is not found in the big and famous, it’s found in the backstreets of small towns, the outsider neighbourhoods, the vast rural interior and the far flung outer islands. Above all, Sicily is extremely diverse, impossible to fit into a mould of one time or another, it’s the true definition of a melting pot.
Okay okay that’s enough of my love song to Sicily, let’s get to the logistics.
Sicily is big. People truly don’t realise just how big until they try to get from Catania to Palermo via Ortigia and Agrigento. It deserves time to explore properly, 3 weeks is good, longer is better.
Sicily Best Places to Visit
Palermo – street food capital of Italy and unmissable on any trip
Catania & Mt Etna – Mt Etna is a lively volcano, frequently offering a show. Even when she’s not being naughty she’s present in every backdrop in the East of Sicily.
Taormina – Undeniably pretty if not a tiny bit too influenced, don’t you dare leave without granita at Bam Bar and a walk along the sand strip to Isola Bella
Ortigia – cute maze of streets and restaurants with amazing sunset aperitivo locations
Modica -For Sicilian architecture and best chocolate in Sicily
Agrigento – Needs no introduction, UNESCO site Valley of The Temples is THE place to go and see some of the oldest Greek temples in the world
Lipari, Salina & Stromboli (Aeolian Islands) – Worth more than a day trip, these islands are all completely unique. They all but shut down in the winter months but shoulder season is the most magical time to island hop
Bronte – A town in the foothills of Etna, famous for pistachio production.
Aci Trezza – A laid-back local seaside town with Etna as its backdrop
Isole Egadi – 3 delightfully different islands. Favignana, Levanzo, Marettimo, all 3 very short ferry hop from Trapani and blissfully chilled out.
Isola di Lampedusa– the most southerly point of Mainland Europe, an Italian summer holiday spot with azure waters. Full Lampedusa Guide >> here.
Trapani – A fishing and port town with a tonne of history, authentic restaurants and local feel
Sciacca – A colourful, fishing village tucked away from the usual tourist trail
Camporeale – A plain rural town but within a stone’s throw from some fantastic vineyards
Sicily What to Eat
Panelle – Fried chickpeas, simple but delicious, eaten hot with salt and lemon and a cold Messina beer. (Palermo)
Pani câ meusa – Spleen & lung sandwich anyone? I did my time and tried this but never again. (Palermo)
Stigghiole – Intestines. Surprisingly okay with a beer. (Palermo)
Cassata- the ricotta and marzipan combination of dreams
Cannoli – needs no introduction. Filled on request is the proper way to order.
Granita – the most traditional are almond, lemon, mulberry and coffee
Messina – Beer
Visit Palermo
The capital of Sicily deserves a special mention as it is (For me at least) the place that defines Sicily because it is here you can see and feel it all. It captures the diversity of the culture better than any other place in the region. It is a world away from many EU cities and it remains my favourite city in Europe.
Aperitivo on Via Maqueda, at sunset the city comes alive and tourists and locals collide for aperitivo on one of Palermo’s most iconic streets
Watch a puppet show
Mondello beach day absolutely worth a day of your time if the weather is in your favour, don’t miss a seafood lunch at Trattoria da Franco
Calabria
New to my travels in 2025 Calabria has finally made it on to my Italian regions I love to bang on about to anyone that will listen. This was probably the biggest surprise and the region I was most anxious to get to know. It’s a long and large region with mesmerising towns, dramatic mountains and an endless coast (which you can drive adjacent to the whole way to Campania). I didn’t cover as much distance as I would like but the journey of discovering Calabria has only just begun. Here’s what I can recommend so far.
How to get to Calabria from Sicily by Ferry
Calabria is connected via a very short ferry ride to Sicily. The port of Messina in Sicily connects to Reggio Calabria and Villa San Giovanni in Calabria in less than 30 mins. Car ferries are available, it’s advisable to book in advance if you are traveling during the summer months.
Calabria Best Places to Visit
Reggio Calabria – The capital and home to one of Italy’s most scenic places to take a Passeggiata (leisurely stroll).
Scilla – just 30 mins drive from the ferry port arrival but a world away from Sicily. The historical centre tumbling down to the sea, ocean side cobbled-streets, cosy restaurants, beaches…Scilla is impossible not to fall in love with.
Capo do Vaticano – the stand out natural beauty in an otherwise developed area of Costa Degli Dei (Coast of the Gods)
Tropea – A stunning stretch of coast but rather over developed, best visited out of the main season.
Calabria off the beaten path
When you’ve traveled all over Italy, the majority of Calabria feels off the beaten path. Quieter, slower, but bursting with natural beauty, culture and speciality dishes. For some reason this region continues to be forgotten, let’s change that.
Tortora – one of the best surprises was finding this tiny hilltop village in the mountains but just a short drive to the stunning coast of Basilicata. The main reason to visit it is so you can stay in a true gem – La Terrazza nel Borgo – don’t miss this.
Pizzo – A much smaller, less flashy Calabrian town on the Costa Degli Dei. The main reason to go here is to eat a Tartufo.
Pentedattilo – small picturesque but deserted mountain village right at the bottom of the region
Pollino – Stunning and almost-forgetten natural park with opportunity for hiking and white-water rafting on the Lao river.
Calabria What to Eat
Granita al bergamotto Granita but make it bergamot. I had a delicious cup in Scilla from Sotto Sotto in Scilla
‘Nduja – spicy sausage usually spread on bread or crackers, on pizza, in pasta, breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Tartufo di Pizzo – A bomb of chocolate, truffle and hazelnut. I am still dreaming of it weeks later. Pizzo is the town to eat this but Tropea has excellent versions available too.
La Creme Reggina – Pink rum-flavoured ice-cream (Reggio Calabria)
Ciambotta Vegetable stew, similar to caponata but less vinegar
Fileja Shortened less tight version of Busiate pasta
Basilicata
If you are anything like me you may have thought Basilicata was a part of Calabria but it is very much its own region and it was the most pleasant discovery of my most recent trip. This has got to be the most underrepresented region in the whole of Italy and my favourite memory of my most recent road trip. Driving the mountain road across the border of Calabria to Basilicata is something I hope I never forget. Arriving at and swimming in Fuimaccino beach was one of those moments that made me feel truly privileged to be able to travel like I do.
Basilicata Best Places to Visit
Matera – The one city you may have actually heard of is Matera, named city of culture by the EU in 2019 and undeniably beautiful. Bring your camera.
Maratea – Like an Amalfi before it turned into one of the most visited places in the world. Fiumicino beach is a natural beauty like no other.
SS18 – The road that runs along the Basilicata’s short coast is breathtaking, winding roads take you on mountain edges past hidden coves and what could possibly be Italy’s last true wild stretch
Castelmezzano is a town in the province of Potenza, in the Lucian Dolomites that is worth a stop. If you’re a foodie, book a table at Al Becco della Civetta.
Tips for Basilicata
The distances might look short but the roads are windy. Allow plenty of time for driving between locations. Even the coast road is windy and neverending. The views are worth it though.
The limited beaches have even more limited parking, be prepared
If you can’t find accommodation in Basilicata on the coast you can also hop over the border to Calabria coastal towns which are only 20-30 minutes drive from Maratea
Apulia
Also known outside of Italy as Puglia. White villages, freshly caught seafood, hidden coves, gentle breeze, rural hinterland – a seaside dream with more than 800km of coast to explore, plus some villages unique to this region. Puglia is one of the best regions to visit in south Italy
Apulia Best Places to Visit
Bari – Truly one of my favourite cities in Italy. It is the perfect mix of charming historical centre and modern services, bars and restaurants. The food I ate during my trips to Bari lives rent free in my head.
Polignano a Mare – One of the most famous and photographed beaches of Italy. The picturesque town sits on the Adriatic coast and is utterly romantic. Avoid it in the middle of summer but in the shoulder season it is much more manageable. Also home to the Red Bull cliff diving champs.
Ostuni – White village not too dissimilar to those you can find in Andalusia. It is reachable by a combination of train and bus from Bari if you don’t have a car.
Alberobello – One of Puglia’s most popular places to visit. The area features on so many instagram posts it’s really put me off but I’ve told myself on my next visit to Apulia I will go and see what the fuss is all about.
Bari what to do, see and eat
Stroll through the historical centre all the way to the seafront and stop at the Teatro Margherita museum.
Walk to the Arco Basso to see the Nonnas rolling pasta in a shape typical to Bari – Orichette or ‘little ears’.
Aperitivo in the modern end of town. Cocktails at Baretto are a must.
Grab lunch on the patio tables at La Pazzeria. Simple, well made food at exceptionally good value.
Apulia Hidden Gems
Salento – Also known as Italy’s heel is a mix of small towns and gorgeous coastline punctuated with swimming holes and seafood pasta shacks. Not so much a hidden gem but much less explored compared to other parts of this region. I explored this sub-region on a scooter and I highly recommend it.
Otranto is a lovely town based in Salento.
Vieste – Right in the north of Apulia you have a natural park with forest, camping and some of the best beaches in the country. A popular spot for Italians but relatively unknown to the rest of the world.
Campania
Campania – two worlds. Raw, gritty Naples meets pristine and sparkly Amalfi, and that’s only the beginning.
Naples
A city teeming with attitude and a gem not only in the south, but all of Italy. It’s my second favourite city (beaten only by Palermo) and has bags of character and grit. Unapologetic about it’s, let’s be honest, rather dirty exterior but unwilling to change for the sake of being more attractive to tourism. And I love the city for it. Yes, and THAT pizza too. Within a stone’s throw from the ancient city of Pompeii and Vesuvius – a volcano, experts claim is going to erupt again in the (near?) future, so if you love to live dangerously, take a hike to the rim, it’s possible and common to go without a guide.
Campania is also home to one of the most famous places in Italy, and the world…
The Amalfi coast, where to visit & what to do
I went through years worth of trips skipping this corner of Italy. The stories of cramped beaches and traffic logged roads always steered me away but finally, (firmly in the off-season) I took a gamble and visited for the day. Holy Cannoli, it was worth it. I can’t believe I’m saying this but there were both empty beaches and trails and Amalfi town aside, it was totally peaceful. I wanted to dislike it but I can’t – the coast is wonderful. I am already plotting another off-season trip to stay for a few days.
Maiori and Minori – what absolute gems to visit in the off-season. I shared the beach and swam at Minori with around 5 people. The towns feel much more local and chilled out. The 3km (one way) Path of the Lemons or Senteiro dei Limoni hiking trail between the two is a lovely activity. You pass various lemon farms on route and some of the best views from any Italian hiking trail. Il limoneto di Marianina was a welcome spot with shady areas and cool and sweet lemon granita. Maiori is just 30 mins by ferry from Salerno.
Ravello – Another destination you can hike to (if you don’t mind a knee-jerking number of steps) is Pretty Ravello. Also quite touristy but an enjoyable place to spend the afternoon, especially as a stop if you are walking between Minori and Amalfi. (4km)
Atrani – Such a lovely little nook tucked around the corner from Amalfi. Come around lunch time and pull up a stool at the beach cafe to bask in the sun.
Amalfi – Definitely the most “touristy”of the towns I’ve visited but I enjoyed the overall vibe still. Limoncello, sorbet filled lemons and fried seafood. I visited in November and it was still busy, but not overly. It was more ‘bustling’ than annoying. I wouldn’t want to try it in the summer months though.
Positano – the most famous, busiest and hardest to get to. Don’t try and fit this in with Amalfi and more in one day. I haven’t visited so can’t share much more info but you don’t have to look far to find blog posts on this part of Amalfi
Salerno as a Calabrian base
A city worth mentioning here is Salerno which is not part of the Amalfi Coast but thanks to regular ferries and buses is the perfect base for exploring Amalfi, Mairori, Minori and Ravello. Don’t just come for the Amalfi convenience though, Salerno has a magical historical centre with a ramble of streets and tiny restaurants. If you come during late November, December or January you are in for a treat – the whole city lights up with the Luci d’Artista Salerno light festival.
Stay at Salerno Antica for a cosy b&b experience and the breakfast of dreams. The sfoglitelle is the best I’ve ever had. Daniele will be your host and he’s not just any host, he is super knowledgeable on everything about Salerno and Amalfi, and the b&b is his childhood home – full of character and love.
Let’s not forget the islands…
The Campanian archipelago
Capri, Ischia and Procida each deserve some of your time. All wildly different vibes but all with plenty to see and do.
Capri is closer to Amalfi and Salerno than Naples, whereas Procida and Ischia are best reached from Naples. Like Positano and Amalfi, Capri is an island adored by the rich and famous. Choose Capri for an upscale escape.
Ischia is the largest of the 3 islands and has plenty to see and do but the biggest draw are its natural thermal waters. You can visit spas all over the island. I stayed in Hotel Terme Oriente and although a little dated I was really impressed with the property, staff and value. They have a small spa area with a thermal pool, a huge library and an outdoor pool. Much of the island shuts down in the off-season so aim to come between April and October if you can. Buses give you access to most places on the island but with a scooter you would have a lot more freedom.
Procida is the smallest and prettiest of the 3. Named cultural capital of Italy in 2022 and owner of what must be the most colourful port in the world. Marina de Corricella is a palette of pastels colours dripping into a sleepy fishing port with twinkling sea and white-clothed tables with bowls of pasta. The port is the island’s main draw but it also has a string of beaches, a remote island with a natural park and some hidden foodie spots to discover. Plus a beautiful sunrise and sunset. Most people come here as a day trip from Naples but I am here to tell you to stay a while, summer or winter, just stay. The island is surprisingly busy year round because of the local working community. Tourism is just one string to its bow. I loved my 4 days here so much I’ve written a dedicated guide because it is just too good not to share.
Campania is definitely overflowing with some of the best sights in south Italy and you could easily spend a few weeks here without leaving for another region.
Sardinia
Sardinia is geographically classed as southern Europe and southern Italy but feels completely like its own region or even country, more so than South Europe’s other big island Sicily which has more cultural similarities with its nextdoor neighbour Calabria. That aside it is a tricky island to add to your road trip itinerary as car ferries are extremely time consuming. Flying in and out is the best for logistics and then renting a car on arrival.
Sardinia is huge. It’s just a bit smaller than Sicily but unfortunately unlike Sicily, I don’t have the travel experience of visiting the whole island. Although I have spent a few weeks in Sardinia I am yet to get to know her so deeply. I’m slowly making my way through the island trip by trip but in the meantime I’m also reading and researching with a passion for getting to know all the best places to visit in Sardinia.
There are several airports and choosing one depends on where you want to explore.
If you want to go to the south, use Cagliari. If you want to revel in the north east in places such as Costa Smeralda use Olbia. For Alghero and the west, Alghero.
Unless you are staying in one place, you need a car in Sardinia. If you want to visit the south and north you need time. Driving is big and beautiful but also slow.
Sardinia where to visit
Costa Smeralda stunning coastal area with white sand beaches and turquoise coves, loved by celebrities
Maddalena Islands a natural park of islands made for boat trips and swimming in crystal clear waters
I am yet to visit the regions of Abruzzo and Molise but you can bet they are on my radar and currently in planning. I visit the regions of South Italy every year so I am always updating this travel guide with the best places to visit. If you have a trip to South Italy coming up don’t forget to save this page or if you’d like some help planning your trip, let’s go!
Updated June 2026 Welcome to yet another Sicily guide. If this is your first…
December 11, 2025
Human Travel Planning. No AI here.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
“Do you have a lock?” I asked about the electric bike I was about to rent for the next 4 days.
“No need. Tranquílo”
and that set the tone for my trip.
Lampedusa is a ludicrously laid back, mostly seasonal, summer holiday destination. The Sicilian island is a contrast of a desolate rocky landscape fringed with sparkling coves and fine sand beaches dipping into every shade of blue you can imagine. It’s an island made for slow mornings with ricotta-filled pastries, afternoons under colourful beach umbrellas, boat trips to hidden coves and caves and seafood platters next to the ocean. The island entertains summer visitors with boat trips and even some nightlife but it’s also home to a rich fishing culture and year round community. The fact that Lampedusa is frequented by mostly Italians, means that the language you hear spoken is…Italian. The way it should be of course, but lets be honest it’s getting increasingly common to hear English floating through the streets of many destinations in Europe. While that certainly makes my life easier, language is a huge part of culture and without it the experience is not as rich.
If you’re new to this website, take a look around and you’ll soon realise Sicily is a hot topic around here. As a place I visit several times a year, my love affair with Sicily deepens with every trip as does my knowledge of the region. This guide is written from personal experience after a trip to the most southern part of the region and country – Lampedusa.
The region of Sicily includes the largest island in the Med and my favourite travel destination of all time. When you think of Sicily you may think of tempestuous Etna, stories of the Mafia, or golden arancini balls, but the true character of Sicily is not found in the big and famous, it’s found in the backstreets of small towns, the outsider neighbourhoods, the vast rural interior and it’s far flung outer islands.
Above: Favignana, Isole Egadi
Though parts of Sicily are firmly on the tourist trail; Palermo, Catania, Stromboli and Taormina for example, much of the region is chronically forgotten. Many of the outer islands are a hot summer spot for Italians but little-known by the rest of the world. You may have heard of the Aeolian islands or if not, surely Stromboli, but have you heard of the Isolie Egadi, Isola di Ustica or Isole Pelagie? Without a doubt, Sicily is home to Italy’s best islands. Lampedusa is one of them.
More about Lampedusa
Lampedusa has an interesting history including pirate attacks and being used as an exile ground for a yellow fever outbreak. The island was in possession of the Tomasi family for 160 years until they eventually sold it to the state of Naples in 1940’s before coming part of the kingdom of Italy in 1861.
Lampedusa’s economy has historically relied on fishing and agriculture until the development of the airport in the 1970s when it opened the island to visitors, boosting its economy with tourism.
Lampedusa is a popular summer holiday spot for Italians but even today, the remote island, which is much closer to Tunisia than Sicily, is almost untouched by international tourism. The island is reminiscent in some ways of Favignana in the Egadis which also attracts Italian tourists and not much else.
Isole Pelagie consists of two inhabited islands Lampedusa & Linosa and 3 other islands/islets.
Why Visit Lampedusa?
Lampedusa is a slow travel spot, a summer-holiday destination and a ‘the simpler the better’ kind of trip. It’s about reconnecting with family (or yourself), switching off the phone and diving in what is probably the bluest ocean you’ve ever seen. In an increasingly connected world, technology-laden, high activity travel has become the norm. This ever increasing trend of needing to do and see everything has driven me to seek out these quieter, less demanding travel destinations to remind myself what its all about. Lampedusa is one of those destinations. I believe the true beauty of Lampedusa (and the Egadi islands too) is that they refuse to be changed by modern tourism. Sometimes less is more and if it ‘aint broke, don’t fix it.
Where is Lampedusa?
Lampedusa and sister island Linosa are the inhabited islands of the Pelagie archipelago, considered part of the Agrigento province in the region of Sicily. Lampedusa is the most southerly point of Italy and Europe, situated between Tunisia (113 km), Malta (176 km) and Sicily’s main landmass (205 km).
When to Visit Lampedusa?
The shoulder season in late May/June and late September/October will give you steady pleasant weather without the full crowds but the bustle of summer isn’t all bad if you want to make the most of the heat of summer or bring the whole family. If you visit in the winter expect reduced services and some closed restaurants, but since there is a year round working community here you won’t be alone.
For summer trips book accommodation plenty of time in advance. In shoulder season and winter you can book things more last minute but remember there may not be as many options to choose from.
How Long to Spend in Lampedusa?
Most come and spend a week or maybe two for their sole summer holiday of the year. It’s not a big island so you can come and spend 4-5 days and see the whole island but spending a week or 10 days allows you to really kick back and feel a part of what’s going on, by the end of it you’ll probably be on first name terms with your favourite restaurants. With this time you can also include a trip to Linosa island.
How to get to Lampedusa
The best and easiest way to reach Lampedusa is by plane.
How to reach Lampedusa by Plane
Lampedusa is connected to Palermo and Catania in Sicily year round ( 1-1h30) and has seasonal summer flights to Rome and Milan (1h30-2h).
How to reach Lampedusa by Ferry
There are fast boast and ferries available from Porto Empedocle in Sicily. The fast boasts take 4.5 hours so – not that fast. Ferries can take 10 hours. Visit Sirenmar for schedules.
How to Get Around Lampedusa & the Pelagie Islands
Lampedusa is small so wherever you stay it won’t take you long to get anywhere but the beaches are well spread out and the not walking distance from most areas of the island unless you’re here for a hiking holiday.
To make the most of the island I recommend hiring some type of transport but at only 20.2 km² big, you don’t really need a car in Lampedusa unless you are travelling with kids. For those of you wanting a slower experience an electric bike is a great option. Some of the tracks are dirt so I don’t recommend using a typical road bike. If you want to be able to circumnavigate the island quicker, then a scooter will do the trick. You can also rent moke style open-top cars which are definitely not necessary but would make a fun experience especially if you are visiting with family or friends.
Renting a Bicycle/ Electric bike or scooter in Lampedusa
There are plenty of locations to pick up a bike or scooter (or car) in Lampedusa and you’ll find most accommodation, shops and even restaurants have a rental side-hustle. Prices can vary so it is worth a look around.
I rented my electric bike from Arcobaleno for €10 a day, bearing in mind this was the off-season. You can expect to pay a little more during peak season but the price can be negotiated if you’re staying a while.
Renting a car in Sicily
Although there are car ferries that arrive in Lampedusa it is forbidden for non-residents to bring cars to most outer islands in Sicily either during peak season or year round. If you’re looking to rent a car in Sicily for travel off the islands (recommended) then I can personally recommend Zest.
Where to stay in Lampedusa
As mentioned, the island is only small and it’s easy to visit all corners regardless of where you stay (if you have transport) but depending on your needs and the atmosphere you are looking for there are a few choices to pick from. I usually use BookingCom for accommodation search as it has the most options, there are also plaes to be found on Airbnb but the majority are also on Bookingcom and at a cheaper rate due to Airbnbs higher comission rates.
Town centre
The bustly town centre is the best choice to feel a part of local life and give you quick access to shops, supermarkets and restaurants. The town centre is located on the top of a hill and a 25 minute walk from the closest beach so keep that in mind.
Port/ Cala Guitgia
The port is at the bottom of the town centre, just a 5-10 minute walk. Cala Guitgia is one of the best serviced beaches on the island with a beach club, restaurant, and shop. It’s also the most sheltered beach on the island.
I stayed at Mamalù, a 1 minute walk from Cala Guitgia and I loved the location for exploring the south coast while having this beach right on my doorstep. The holiday apartment is one of the nicest I found during my research, very spacious and equipped with everything you need.
As you head out east from the port the scenery starts to change and the island becomes less developed but here you can find many holiday homes and villas blending into the dusty landscape. Cala Croce and Portu ‘Ntoni are two of the island’s most picturesque small beaches. Staying in this location gives you the best of both worlds, close to the beaches and only a short drive from town.
I’m guessing you’re here for the crystal clear water? Lampedusa is your oyster!
Lampedusa is a remote island in the middle of the med so it can be victim to windy conditions but even in strong winds there are usually one or two sheltered beaches. I recommend downloading the free app Wind Finder which shows you wind direction and strength using an easy to understand map.
Cala Guitgia – Next to the port. The most sheltered on the island. Serviced with restaurant and shop.
Cala Croce and Portu ‘Ntoni Two small picturesque beaches with restaurants and a sunset bar. Great swimming.
Spiaggia dei Conigli*(Rabbit beach) The most famous beach of Lampedusa. Named 2013 beach of the year and with good reason. A swathe of fine white sand with a shallow swimming area, and the most gorgeous shades of blue you’ve ever seen.
Cala Madonna Very small beach but with long cliffs to perch on and swim along
Mare Morto – If you want to escape the crowds and have a different type of ocean experience, trek down to Mare Morto and perch up on the rocks. Swim out to the Arco naturale for a unique perspective.
Cala Creta – A rocky and beautiful bathing spot that is harder to access than other parts of the island making it quieter. There is no beach here so you need to get in and out over rocks. Don’t attempt when there is swell. Not really suitable for young kids.
Cala Pisana – Another sheltered swimming spot. The small beach is nothing special but the shape of the bay makes it a great swimming area and boats often anchor here for lunch. There is a large stone area where you can set up a towel and jump straight into the azure.
*A note on Conigli: The beach is also the chosen hatching ground of the Caretta Caretta turtle (loggerhead) making it a protected natural reserve area. The island has thankfully put in place restrictions to eliminate disturbance. Access to the beach is only permitted at certain times of day and there is limited number of people allowed on the beach during summer. You should book a slot in advance here. There are no services on Conigli so you need to bring your own food, drinks and umbrellas.
Once on the beach, obey the area restrictions. Sadly, during my visit people had set up their towels in the clearly signposted protected area despite there being plenty of room outside of this. Don’t be those people. I think people forget what a privilege it is to have access to areas of natural beauty like this, when we’ve lost so much around the world because restrictions like these weren’t put in place in the first place. Respect them.
Boat Tour in Lampedusa
For islands like Lampedusa, there really is only one way to experience them best and that’s on or in the water. Book a boat trip for at least one of the days of your trip. This one is really well rated : Yacht excursion, swimming stops and typical lunch
Best Experiences and Activities in Lampedusa
Lampedusa is more about ‘being’ than ‘doing’ and I definitely recommend you take advantage of the chance to slow down and enjoy the view. Of course there are still lots of ways to experience the island and leave with meaningful memories.
Shopping for the freshest fruit and vegetables from the local market stalls. One thing I loved about Lampedusa is the prevalence of fresh produce stores. In fact, although chain supermarkets like Conad exist they do not sell fruit and vegetables, these can only be bought from specific market stores.
Enjoy a traditional Sicilian breakfast of Granita at Paradise pasticceria or bar dell’Amicizia. The most traditional flavours are almond, pistachio mulberry, lemon and coffee.
Cycle to Spiaggia dei Conigli view point for sunrise/sunset. The light at dusk and dawn is extra special.
Sunset and aperitivo at Bar H. This truck turned bar is perched at the end of the world and offers a stripped back sunset experience. Go at least once while you’re in Lampedusa.
Linosa island is Lampedusa’s sister island, smaller, more wild and even quieter. If you have the time, it is worth staying a night in Linosa for a different experience. There are daily ferries from Lampedusa. Book ahead with Liberty Lines.
Best Restaurants and Bars in Lampedusa
The main concentration of restaurants is found in the town centre and next to the port. Beachside bars and restaurants are best for aperitivo and sunset but not the place you would choose for dinner.
Best Restaurants Lampedusa
Bar dell’Amicizia for breakfast, pastries and Sicilian favourites like Arancini
Paradise Pasticceria, my favourite granita on the island and a local hangout for coffee
La Terrazza di Giò Laid back restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the port. Small but delicious menu with a focus on traditional dishes.
Il Mercatino del Pesce Fish market turned restaurant. Pick your fish from the market and the restaurant will cook for you.
Remote Sicilian islands to me are all about swimming in gin-clear water, cycling on rusty bikes around dusty paths and ending the day with a neon orange aperitif. I am a sucker for a wooden shack serving ice cold aperol and a sunset view. Here’s what I found. Worth noting that during the off-season some of these are closed or with open with limited hours.
The island very much feels like a hidden gem in itself, at least for the non-Italian of us, but once you are on the island there is nothing undiscovered. Although the coves and crevices are known, some of them are not so easy to reach. To make the most of them, book a boat trip to explore the island fully. I didn’t do this while on the island so can’t recommend a specific one but GetYourGuide has plenty of options
So there you have it, a quick and hopefully useful guide to the island of Lampedusa in Sicily. This won’t be my only time to the island so as always, I’ll continue to update with every visit. Happy Planning!
I have just returned from 10 days in the paradise, also known as Sardinia. I was based in San Teodoro (part of the marine protected area of Tavolara Punta Coda Cavallo) and the La Maddalena archipelago. My purpose for the trip was to take part on ‘Swim the Island’ open water race at San Teodoro, and then find some beautiful open water swim experiences in the area. I don’t usually write guides for places after the first-visit but I found such little information about La Maddalena during my own research I think even a basic guide will be helpful to anyone traveling to this part of Sardinia.
My La Maddalena Trip – Who should use this travel guide?
If this is your first time visiting the La Maddalena islands this guide will help you plan your trip. I only spent 10 days in this part of Sardinia and only a few of those were on La Maddalena so I’m not claiming to know everything there is about these islands. However, since I work as a travel planner full-time I always research my own trips with great detail so I can pass that on here. My travel style is laid-back, outdoor activity and adventure so if that’s also your vibe you should find this guide useful.
Travel in Northern Sardinia – for beach and ocean lovers
I have yet to visit the south of Sardinia but thanks to a recent trip to the Sassari region I can definitely recommend visiting the north east of Sardinia if you love beaches and islands.
What and where is the La Maddalena archipelago?
La Maddalena is an archipelago of islands and natural park in northern Sardinia, Italy. The “major” islands in the archipelago are:
La Maddalena (the only permanently inhabited island)
La Capera
Santa Maria
Santa Stefano
Razzoli
Budelli
Spargi
The yellow marker shows La Maddalena island
Why Visit La Maddalena Archipelago?
Two words: Natural beauty. I’ve been lucky enough to visit some unbelievable beach destinations in my lifetime, including remote islands in Thailand, Indonesia, and Fiji. I’ve swum in some of the bluest, clearest water in the world. The islands of La Maddalena are right up there with the very best. If you love the ocean, and landscapes untouched by modern man then you’ll love the islands of La Maddalena. With that description it’s easy to see why so many people have La Maddalena on their trip wish list.
In addition to the natural beauty beaming from the archipelago, La Maddalena island is a charming town to spend a few days or more. The town centre, although a little touristy is very pretty, with pastel-hued houses and colourful shutters, it’s very enjoyable to stroll around. Rent a bicycle or scooter and circumnavigate the island to find quiet beaches and vast ocean views. You can even see Corsica from the right spot. What I was most surprised about is if you take a few streets back from La Maddalena town centre you’ll see local life exists. Head down to the port at the right time in the morning and you’ll see fishermen offloading their catch. It was less hectic than I envisioned from reading the posts I had before I arrived, but maybe in the middle of summer that is the case.
Overtourism in La Maddalena?
Like anywhere as jaw-droppingly beautiful as this archipelago, the islands are under pressure from over-tourism. Thankfully, La Maddelena has put regulations in place to mitigate the effects and that was clear during my time on the islands. There is a daily cap on visitor numbers keeping the beaches and waterways less busy and causing less disturbance to the wildlife and ecosystems.
Of course, the best thing for natural environment like uninhabited islands is no tourism at all, and all of us who chose to travel to these places have to recognise that we are contributing to the disturbance. Before visiting a popular tourist destination, check which (if any) regulations have been put in place to protect it physically and culturally. If it is obvious the country/region/council cares about preservation in addition to the capital that tourism brings, there will be rules and regulations you have to follow to enjoy the area. This is a good thing.
A few rules when visiting La Maddalena:
Do not take food on the beach – there are wild boar that will rummage through bags to find it. Our food should not be entering the ecosystem on the islands.
Leave no trace. No litter, no human waste, no paper, nothing.
Do not remove anything from the beaches such as sand or shells
Use reef/ocean-safe sunscreen if you are swimming
If you do see wildlife such as fish, birds or boar, watch from afar. Do not enter their personal space or try to touch them.
Do not take photos of fishermen or other people carrying out their daily work without asking them. Respect their space and privacy.
Don’t climb over fences, enter closed spaces or do stupid sh*t just to get a photo for instagram.
The famous Cala Rosa (pink beach) is now no longer accessible in order to preserve it after tourists were taking sand from the beach (we are an idiotic species sometimes). The decision to close places like this is something I wish more regions did. Tourism doesn’t need to be and is not entitled to be everywhere. Nature has to keep winning and I am fully behind the bodies that limit numbers or close areas to tourists if necessary.
Pink beach aside, the majority of other beaches on the islands can be reached by ferry or private boat, and I hope that everyone that visits recognises what a privilege it is to be able to do this.
How to get to La Maddalena Archipelago?
If you want to stay on La Maddalena island, unless you have your own boat you’ll need to catch a ferry from Palau. Palau is a 50 minute drive from Olbia airport or a 1.5 hour bus. The buses in this corner of Sardinia are not very frequent and it does require some pre-planning. You can book an extra urban ticket online using an app called CTM Bus Finder. In most cases, you cannot buy your ticket directly from the driver.
If you are arriving at Olbia airport you can also buy tickets from the machine. At Olbia airport take the 514 line to Olbia centre, then take bus 601 to Palau. Again, the buses from Olbia to Palau are not very frequent, about 1 every 2 hours and they don’t always link up well so be prepared to be waiting around.
Taking a Ferry to La Maddalena
Once you make it to Palau. You’ll be pleased to know the ferries run frequently. There are two companies Delcomar and Maddalena Lines. Between them you can expect ferries every 20-30 minutes. Buy your tickets at Palau ferry port, next to the bus stop. They only accept cash but there is an ATM next to the ticket station and there is no charge to use it.
How to Get Around La Maddalena
Your options for getting around the island are foot, bicycle, scooter, car or boat.
Renting a Bicycle/ Electric bike or scooter in La Maddalena
There are plenty of options to hire a scooter or bicycle (normal or electric) on the primary island La Maddelena. I didn’t do this while I was there but I did ask one company who gave a quote of €15 a day for a normal bike. If you shop around you can probably find a lower price for longer.
Renting a car in Sardinia
If you’re coming to La Maddalena as part of a longer/multi-island trip you may have a rental car. You can take a car ferry from Palau to La Maddalena but double check with your rental company that you are covered to take the car off the mainland. You can hire from Olbia airport or any of the major airports in Sardinia if you are travelling around the region. I recommend the broker Zest for car hire in Sardinia. I’ve been using them since 2019 all over Portugal, Spain and Italy because they have fantastic insurance and customer service. When selecting a car rental company – Avoid the company Centauro who have been caught running a scam.
Shoulder season (May-June, Sept-Oct) is always the best time to visit islands in the med – when the weather is predictably good, but without the main haul of tourists that come with the summer months. I visited the last week of May and although it was noticeably busy, it was manageable and I was able to find quiet on the island very easily by simply walking a few streets back from the centre. There were even a few empty beaches. If I were to go back I would try early October to compare. Come in winter and you have the potential to be enjoying islands and beaches almost to yourself but remember the weather will be more unpredictable and boat tours may not run. Always stay safe on beaches and don’t swim alone.
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How Long to Spend in La Maddalena?
Some people come as a day trip or on a boat tour from Palau and there are plenty of options to do this if time doesn’t allow a longer stay.
Alternatively, stay a few days on La Maddalena. If you have the time, I really recommend this. Sunrise/sunset is always a special time on the islands and at these times you definitely feel like you have more of the island to yourself. Thanks to the frequent ferries to and from Palau, if you have a car you could actually use La Maddalena as your base and hop on and off to visit other areas of northern Sardinia. 4-5 days would be a great time to maximise seeing different islands and enjoying La Maddalena without rushing.
Best way to see La Maddalena Archipelago?
The best way to see and experience the archipelago is by boat, preferably your own, but if like me you are lacking in said boat, then you can join a day tour to see the islands.
I don’t usually use Get Your Guide for booking tours in Portugal but I found it useful to compare boat trips in Sardinia specifically and I booked this one via them (It was fantastic).
On La Maddalena island you can get around easily by bike, scooter or car. It’s not that big so you can even walk but please be careful on the roads as they aren’t really set up for hikers.
Where to stay in La Maddalena
La Maddalenda is the only one of the 7 islands you can stay. The small town centre is really pretty and there are several options to choose from. Be aware that it can be noisy with music in the evenings so if you would prefer a quieter stay I would consider staying a few streets back from the town centre/port.
The other option is staying in pretty Palau and taking the regular ferries to La Maddalena or make the most of the boat tours that depart straight from Palau.
La Maddaena is about island living, natural beauty and experiencing life in a small town. It’s a place to slow down but also enjoy activites on the water.
Best Experiences and Activities in the islands of La Maddalena
The majority of things to do in the archipelago of La Maddalena involve being in or on the water. You’re going to be spending time on boats, swimming the gin clear ocean, looking for fish or sailing around looking for deserted bays.
Boat tours in La Maddalena
The most popular way to discover the La Maddalena archipelago. There are several companies that offer tours and you can choose from a more budget conscious options (bigger boat, more people) or more refined option (smaller boat more comfortable boat like a catamaran, less people). I’m not usually one for using Get Your Guide but I did use them during this trip as I found it the easiest way to compare the tours. I booked this one which was around €50 for the day and thought it was well organised and good value. You can either buy a pasta meal on board or bring your own. There is also a bar serving drinks, coffees and snacks. It was busy, most seats were taken but I felt there was still enough space to enjoy the boat and we were able to move around quite freely. If I were to come back with friends I would definitely choose a private boat option for a more personal experience.
Private Boat Tours
This would definitely be my preference if I was traveling with a partner or friends/family. With this option you can customise the day to spend shorter or longer on any of the islands. That freedom will give you much richer experience.
Rent a Boat
It’s possible to rent a boat on La Maddalena but I recommend you have experience doing this in other areas before committing here. It is busy. Be wary that there may be people in the water swimming or doing other activities. There are a few stories of drunk tourists renting boats and running over people. Taking a private tour with a skipper would be a better option so you can enjoy the islands stress-free.
How to check the weather on the islands
If anything is going to stop or hinder your. boat tour and swimming it is the wind. A really useful app is Wind Finder which shows you wind direction and strength using an easy to understand map. It can help you plan which days to do what. I use this frequently to find sheltered beaches.
Accessible beaches in La Maddalena
La Maddalena has a wheelchair friendly beach (Punta Tegge), with a boardwalk put in place that take you right to the water’s edge. The boat company I used was also wheelchair/buggy friendly and has a ramp which allows you to be lowered into the sea without steps, however please contact them in advance to check they have everything you need.
Open water swimming around the La Maddalena Archipelago
This is quite niche but I wanted to share my experience as an open-water swimmer while traveling. I love adventure or scenic swimming and these islands were ideal for it. If you are a keen open water swimmer or love to snorkel, La Maddalena islands are an amazing experience to add to your open water memories. Since La Maddalena has a lot of boat traffics and not so many accessible beaches joining a boat tour to visit the other islands is the best way to make the most of swimming. Most boat tours visit Santa Maria, Budelli and Spargi.
The Santa Maria stop has a 500m long beach and a rocky headland. The beach area is cordoned off from boats so you can swim safely. I managed a 1200m swim while we stopped here.
Budelli island has a shallow, sheltered area known as the ‘piscine di Budelli’ (swimming pool of budelli). The water is ridiculously clear. There are a lot of boats here, big and small so if your tour boat drops you here they are conscious of you swimming too far. Pay attention to your surroundings. I recommend taking a colourful buoy and swim cap as an extra precaution.
Spargi island. This island is one of, if not the most beautiful place I have ever swum. It is a true natural beauty with azure water and giant bouders. It’s a popular boat tour stop so there are a lot of people swimming in the shallow areas, but there is a large section cordoned off from boats and I was able to swim 1.3km in the ocean with freedom. Absolutely beautiful.
Other Activities on La Maddalena
Visit Capella della Madonnetta. If you want to spend some time on terra firma, La Maddalena makes a lovely spot for some easy hikes including a walk out to this tiny chapel perched on the cliffs. Our boat guide told us it’s a popular wedding destination and I can see why.
Spend Sunset at Punta Tegge. This south west corner of La Maddalena is only 25 minutes walk from the town centre but blissfully peaceful. It’s the best spot for sunset on the island. While you’re there, definitely drop by Zi Antò to sink some sundowners with a picture perfect view or stay for a local dinner. Book in advance for dinner.
Boutique treasure hunt. There are some cave-like but wondrous small fashion and homeware boutiques hidden amongst the ramble of tourist tat shops, seek them out and you will be rewarded.
Best Restaurants and Bars in La Maddalena
La Maddalena island is only small but it has plenty of restaurants, bars and cafes to fill your days.
Best Restaurants La Maddalena
Pizzeria Civico 49 has some of the best pizza on the island (and amazing prices!) with a small patio that does get filled up quickly so book in advance
For take-away pizza, walk to the residential part of town to visit La Mula’s. Join the queue (mostly locals) and choose from a long but exciting list of pizzas while you wait your turn.
For picnic supplies and cheese fans drop by La Casa del Formaggio (open 08:30-1pm and 5-8pm)
Dolci Distrazioni For gelato you need to stop at this unassuming place. The artisan flavours are delish. If you are dairy-free, they also do a safe chocolate scoop here that is so rich and tasty.
Gastronomia da Anselmo Head here to pick up antipasti for a beach picnic or eat in for traditional homecooked primi, secondi and dolce.
Zi Antò’s is a must-visit while on the island. Whether it’s for a few post-beach drinks or a family dinner under twinkly lights this restaurant is a special place. Drinks are a little pricey in my opinion, (€5 for a non-alcoholic beer) but there’s no denying the unique location and the atmosphere and friendly staff make it totally worth it.
The Duke Cocktail bar with a romantic setting and metal chairs on the street. They have all the favourites including meat and cheese boards.
Old Cafe Don’t go for food but if you want something easy, and comfortable to rest your legs for a while pull up a sofa chair and order a coffee or spritz. It’s very close to the port so it’s a good place to wait for your ferry or your check in. Kid-friendly
There you have it. A mini travel guide for The Maddalena islands in Sardinia. Happy Planning!
Introducing my favourite island in Sicily and one of my favourite trip destinations in the world – Favignana and the Egadi islands. After my first trip in 2024 I became besotted with these little islands and went back in 2026 for a week, when I also took part in the Egadi Ultra Swim, swimming 12km around the island of Levanzo.
During my most recent trip to Sicily I spent some time knocking around the Aegadian islands – Isole Egadi. Both trip to Egadi’s I’ve based myself on the ludicrously laid-back Favignana where I spent my days cycling from beach to beach. I’ve also spent some time boating around the caves and coastline of Marettimo, and toasted an afternoon spritz on the postcard island of Levanzo. Spending this time in the Aegadian islands further highlighted how special Sicily is and why it will likely always be my favourite region in Italy. There isn’t loads of information on this archipelago because most visitors only stay for the day so I wrote this guide to help you better plan your trip.
While we’re here, have you already seen my islands of Sicily travel guide?
Favignana is one of the three inhabited Egadi islands and where I chose to base myself for 5 days and 5 nights. I really wasn’t sure what to expect from this trip as most of the information online is written by those visiting on a day trip from mainland Sicily but Favignana surprised me in all the best ways.
It truly is a perfect place to go with the flow. Just wake up each morning and see what you feel like doing, no plans necessary. Wake early for a sunrise bike ride to Cala San Nicola, have a lie in until it’s time to pick up freshly-filled cannoli for breakfast, snorkelling the southern grottos? Whatever you fancy, Favignana is easy. The only rule is : take it slow.
I can tell when I’ve had one of my best trips ever by how quickly I start planning the return. No sooner had I sat on the ferry back to mainland Sicily, I had made a plan with my accommodation host to return in the next year. I’ll be back, Favignana!
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
Travel in Sicily
Sicily first came into my view in 2019 but due to covid my trip was cancelled and my curiosity had to wait. It was 2022 when I escaped for a two week trip and came back with a new favourite place in Italy, and somewhere I have returned to time and time again. Since that first trip, Sicily became my favourite place to travel and I’ve spent months worth of travel time in the region.
Looking for the best places to visit in Sicily all in one place? The Sicily Travel Map has more than 150 pins to help you plan a meaningful trip. I created this map to inspire your itinerary and make planning easier. The map includes a food guide, authentic restaurants, trattorias and osterias, the best spots for aperitivo, road trip ideas, cities, islands, remote beaches, hiking trails and areas of natural beauty. Local activities and genuine experiences. Everything you need, for the cost of one pizza. Mamma Mia!
Favignana is one of 3 inhabited Egadi islands. The archipelago is located 10 km from the west coast of my favourite Italian travel destination – Sicily. Zoom in using the map below to see the islands of Favignana, Marettimo and Levanzo.
Favignana is a 30 minute ferry from the port town of Trapani. Trapani is 45 minutes from Palermo airport or 1h25 from Palermo city centre.
How Long to Spend in Favignana?
Many foreign travelers choose to visit Favignana as a day trip from Sicily. With the frequent fast ferries this is totally doable. However I recommend staying in Favignana for at least a few days and nights so you can get a feel for what the island is all about. Do as the locals do, which is come here to vacation, switch off the worries, soak up the sun. If you don’t have the luxury of time but want to squeeze in a trip while in Sicily, aim to arrive on the very first ferry and depart on the very last to see Favignana in all lights. I urge you to try and stay one night if you can.
Slow Travel in Favignana
One of the most appealing parts of travel in Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo is their slow pace. I honestly can’t believe how untouched by modern tourism the islands feel. They are not secret by any stretch of the imagination. Favignana is a popular holiday destination for Italians but despite the attraction it hasn’t lost itself to tourism like many of the other Italian islands have. Levanzo and Marettimo are even less developed. I truly hope the Egadis hold on to this. I believe they will.
How to get to Favignana
First you need to get yourself to Sicily and Palermo is the closest airport. The beauty of this western part of Sicily is that it is well connected. Meaning you can fly into Palermo, get to Trapani and (in most cases) get to the Egadi islands in the same day thanks to bus and boat availability. Worth noting, unless you want to spend a few days in Palermo either side of your island trip (highly recommend – it’s a bold, colourful, gritty and friendly city) then there is no need to spend a night before or after the islands because the city is the opposite direction from the airport and Egadi islands. If you arrive at Palermo airport in the evening you can still take a late bus to Trapani, spend the night there and then take the first boat to the islands the next morning.
It is worth noting that Trapani does also have an airport that connects to other places in Italy and some outside of the country such as Bordeaux (which are more limited).
Booking a Ferry to Egadi Islands
Ferries to the Egadi islands depart Trapani frequently (every few hours) and less-frequently Marsala.
I took 6 ferries over the space of my time on the Egadis and all but 1 was on time. The remaining was delayed by 15 mins. The ports have the arrival and departure process polished to a T and it’s impressive how quickly the ferries are in and out with all passengers onboard.
Use Liberty Lines to book your ferry to Favignana Ferries run approximately every 2 hours between 7am – 9pm. During summer tickets do sell out so always purchase in advance, especially your return ticket if you are doing a day trip. You have the ability to change your tickets up until the last minute. Cancellation within a few days incurs a 20% fee. Tickets are €10-€15 each way between Trapani and Favignana. Favignana to Marettimo is the same. Favignana to Levanzo is €5-€8 each way.
How to Get Around Favignana
In Favignana you can rent a car, scooter, electric bicycle, or normal bicycle. The island is less than 20 square km and the majority is relatively flat so cycling (electric or normal) and foot is the best way to get around. Cycling from beach to beach is one of the main attractions of being on Favignana so I highly recommend hiring a bike for your time on the island.
Renting a Bicycle or scooter in The Egadi Islands
There are dozens and dozens of bike rental places on Favignana. When you step off the ferry you’ll meet loads of touts. Don’t feel like you need to hire from there. There are plenty of shops available. The quality of bikes varies from place to place so if you have the time it’s worth checking a few places before committing. If you’re coming in the peak summer months, for peace of mind you may benefit from booking in advance. To do this search GoogleMaps for bike rental and read the reviews. Those companies often have a way to book in advance.
Prices vary depending on the type of bike and time of year. On my most recent trip I rented with Noleggio Maria Laura for €5 a day for a normal bike with basket and lock. I would rent here again.
If you want an easier time, electric bikes are plenty but I must admit, part of the charm for me is getting around slowly and simply. No need for swish bikes here.
Renting a car in Sicily
There is zero need for a car in Favignana but if the Egadi islands are part of a bigger Sicily trip you may want a car during your trip. I recommend a car for exploring Sicily (outside of Palermo and Catania where you do not need a car). I always use Zest (you’ll see them in all my guides). I’ve rented cars via Zest all over Italy, Spain and Portugal.
The island is only small so you can stay in any part and get around quick enough but staying in the centre (next to the port) makes sense since it has the biggest concentration of restaurants, shops, bars etc. The town is a pleasant ramble of streets and so enjoyable to walk and cycle round. The vibe is so lovely.
I booked an apartment at Terra del Sole located in the centre, a 5 minute walk from the ferry and 3 minute walk from the main area of restaurants and shops. They offer standard holiday apartments, very spacious and all have a balcony/patio. Don’t expect high quality furnishings but the bed was comfy (and huge). I went back again for my second trip and will continue to stay there for future trips. Say hello to Max from me (Candy the swimmer).
Alternatively, if you want to stay a little further out for a more secluded stay there are various houses and resorts dotted around the island. A few I’ve had my eye on..
As always, in summer months book in advance. The winter isn’t the time to visit Favignana but in case you do end up visiting then, there are some amazing accommodation deals to be found.
Best Beaches and Grottos in Favignana
Oh man. So many. Considering this is a very small island and I had 5 days worth of exploring, I still didn’t reach all the beaches. The best thing about the range of beaches is that whatever the wind is doing there is usually at least 1 or 2 that are sheltered. Even better, most are a 10-20 minute cycle from Favignana port.
I’m not going to list every beach here. The best thing to do is jump on the bike and cycle along the coast until you see one you fancy. This is part of the joy of it all. There aren’t really any hidden beaches as such but if you take some time cycling around the coast you’ll find plenty of little grottos to dive in and explore.
Remember : never swim at a beach on your own. Don’t jump or dive into water unless you know for certain it is deep enough.
A really useful app for choosing beaches in Favignana is WindFinder – use this to see the wind prediction for the coming hours and days. It makes it really easy to see which beaches will be sheltered.
Cala Rosso – the most famous and one that regularly makes it in the “World’s best beaches” guides. Not the most accessible of beaches (very spikey rocks – bring beach shoes), but one of the bluest bays I’ve ever seen. There aren’t lots of places to lay a towel but with a bit of imagination you an make it work. If you want it to yourself – go at sunrise.
Bue Marino – The most eastern “beach” of Favignana. Bue Marino is a great spot for sunrise. The rugged cliffs are left in strange formations from the quarrying. There is not really a proper beach here but plenty of rock to bathe on.
Cala Azzurra – My favourite beach I visited. This gorgeous cove has two sections of beach joined by a low walkable cliff. As the name suggests the water is unbelievably blue. It gets busy but you shouldn’t have a problem finding somewhere to lay your towel. Get there early in the day to enjoy this sparkly gem to yourself.
Cala San Nicola Beach – My favourite surprise. I only discovered this beach on the last morning despite the fact it is less than a 10 minute ride from Favignana port. This little cove is backed by a graveyard but don’t let that put you off because this sheltered spot is a heavenly place to swim. It has a great beach shack bar on the cliff which makes the perfect place for an afternoon spritz.
Lido Burrone – I personally didn’t think this beach was that special considering what else is available but if you want to hire sunbeds, this is the place to do it. However this south coast stretch has some amazing rocky coves where you can find little secluded shelfs. I spent many afternoons there.
Cala Rotonda – A sheltered bay on the west coast that has the best sunset bar on the whole island which draws in a young crowd. The beach is great for snorkeling and the bar is great for apertivo with a view and fun vibes.
Favignana Island Itinerary ideas
You don’t need an itinerary for Favignana or the other Egadi island. These islands are all about going with the flow, enjoying the simple life and a slower pace. In peak summer it’s good to book boat tours in advance, otherwise see how you feel each morning.
Best Experiences and Activities in Favignana
Usually this part of my guide is brimming with different activities but as I keep saying, this island is about going with the flow. The simple life is what Favignana is made for. These were my favourite experiences in Favignana.
Cycling the island, from beach to beach in a bikini
Swimming in crystal clear water in the various grottos
Sunset Drinks at A Leva on the west coast, watching the sun dip beyond Marettimo island
Wandering the main streets of Favignana under a pink and purple sunset as the twinkly lights turn on
Eating granita twice a day every day.
Picking up fresh fruit and veg from the small produce market
Other experiences in the Egadi Islands
If you’re spending more than a few days in Favignana you may want to explore the other islands Levanzo and Marettimo. The best experiences I enjoyed on the other islands were:
Like the rest of Italy, Sicily is home to some incredibly tasty snacks. You can find all of the following on Favignana island so I present to you your very own treat treasure hunt! Enjoy!
Cannoli
Cassata
Granite and Brioche con tuppo
Arancini
Crocchè di patate
Panelle
Considering it’s a small island I’m really impressed with the number of restaurant options. Lots of variation to choose from. Some appeared more touristy than others. There is every type of tuna you can imagine, but you’ll also find plenty of pizza and pasta too.
Best Restaurants Favignana
Cannoli e Coralli – This granita and Cannoli shop had me back every single day without fail. Their granita is the best on the island, perfect texture and so many flavours. I managed to try 8 while I was in Favignana. The fig, peach, pistachio and Cantaloupe melon are all worthy of a mention but try them all, for me, please.
Pasticceria FC A very popular breakfast spot, often with a queue. I’m not someone who likes to queue but I made the exception for FC time and time again. The freshly filled cannoli is the best I’ve ever had.
Cabucci Ruci – You’re one stop for panelle and €5 spritz.
Cafe Mazzini – Bustling local cafe with all the usual breakfast suspects. This is a great place for people watching. It gets busy at breakfast time. Solid granita and croissant options.
Pizza Pazza Hole in the wall pizza. Super cheap and cheerful, great for a take-away to eat on the beach or by the port.
Tuna Street Food My favourite feed on the island. Simple and quality. Fresh grilled tuna steak panino. Popular with locals and tourists alike. Plastic tables and stray cats – Perfection! The van is now blue!
Bar/cafe at Cala Azzurra Basic shack like with beers and all the usual (and best) fried Sicilian snacks. Good value considering the location. Eat outside in the shady area or take-away and eat on the cliffs with a view.
Here are some more from the huge wish list I made myself that I got to see in person but not try myself.
A Leva – Sole, Leva. Located on the west coast of Favignana (25 min bike ride) Amazing spot for sunset and aperitivo. Lots of seating and a wide open view with a desolate feeling and mountain backdrop. €15 for tagliere with a drink.
La Costa Sunset Bar, Cala Trono. Another spot for sunset drinks. Beautiful location with outdoor and indoor seating. Easy to reach from Favignana centre if you don’t want to go round the other side of the mountain.
Movida Favignana main town. Small, almost hole in the wall bar with a few wooden tables and chairs outside, amongst the bustle of the highstreet. Lively music and the usual drinks.
I really enjoyed writing this because I got to relive my time in Favignana. I hope this guide helps you plan your trip to Favignana and the Egadi islands in Sicily. Happy planning!
Updated in September 2026 | Next Trip October 2026
Ciao! Planning a trip to Sicily? You’ll find everything you need to create the best itinerary right here. Sicily remains my most traveled to destination and I can’t believe I’m writing this with 4 years worth of trips to the region behind me. I’ve spent months worth of exploring during all seasons, but the more I find the more I want to go back, which is why there is always another trip around the corner.
I’ve road tripped all over the region and island hopped around the archipelagos. I’m ready to share the best places I’ve found so far. If you’re planning on visiting Sicily then this guide, and the Sicily travel map, will help you build the perfect itinerary for your trip.
Sicily is particularly special as it’s one of only a few places I return to each and every year. I really fell in love with the diversity of the island. My travel style is adventure, new experiences and ‘off the beaten path’ so you’ll find lots of places that offer that in this list of places, but I also like to see the popular spots (they are popular for good reason!) so those are included below too.
If you’re still on the fence about whether to visit Sicily, then let me help change that. Ready to explore my favourite region of Italy? Let’s go!
Looking for the best places to visit in Sicily all in one place? The Sicily Travel Map has more than 150 pins to help you plan a meaningful trip. I created this map to inspire your itinerary and make planning easier. The map includes a food guide, authentic restaurants, trattorias and osterias, the best spots for aperitivo, road trip ideas, cities, islands, remote beaches, hiking trails and areas of natural beauty. Local activities and genuine experiences. Everything you need, for the cost of one pizza. Mamma Mia!
Don’t have time to plan a route and itinerary? I can do it for you. Travel planning and itinerary design is my profession and Sicily is my speciality. Whether you want me to help you with planning, review your current itinerary or have one built especially for you, I’m your gal.
Before we dive into all the spectacular places to visit in Sicily lets tick off a few other planning boxes.
When to visit Sicily
I believe Sicily is a year round destination, depending on where you want to visit, but the best time of year to visit the island (and its outer islands) is later spring (May/June) and early autumn (September/October). Summer is also a wonderful time to be in Sicily but be prepared for more crowds in the popular spots. Winter is an interesting time to visit Sicily. Expect the smaller tourist hubs and outer islands to be quiet or shut down completely but it is in winter you can explore the island without the crowds and also find amazing accommodation options for a fraction of the price. Catania and Palermo hold on to people year round so if you’re looking for a city break you can enjoy these at any time. The smallest islands are mostly unreachable in the winter. The Aeolian and Egadi islands still have ferries running daily but don’t expect full services, some of the islands come to a complete standstill.
How long to spend in Sicily
Again, this depends on how many places you are hoping to visit. Ideally 1-2 weeks to fit in 3-4 locations.
If you only have a long weekend then pick one of the cities and add in a day trip further out. For example if you have 4 days in Catania, include a day tour to Etna in that. If you’re in Palermo, consider a train to the north coast beaches or rent a car and head to Riserva Zingaro.
If you have the luxury of 3 weeks or more you can start getting under the surface of Sicily and with a car, hunt down some smaller villages and indulge in some island time too.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
Sicily 10 day Itinerary
10 days is a popular visit time in Sicily. Here is a simple 10 day itinerary.
Days 1 -3 Palermo with day trip to Trapani or
Day 4 Agrigento
Days 5 -6 Ortigia with day trip to ½ day to Noto with wine tasting
Days 7-10 Taormina with ½ day trip to Catania and ½ day trip to Etna
I say it on almost every guide and here is no different; unless you are sticking to the major cities (Palermo and Catania) then a hire car is the best way to get around Sicily. While the trains and buses are frequent and (fairly) reliable between the main sites, if you want to see the rest of the region then you need 4 (or 2) wheels.
There are two brokers I can recommend for car hire in Italy – Zest & Discover. I have been using Zest since 2019 in Portugal but recently started working with Discover in Italy. My most recent two week road trip though south Italy was with Discover and it was a great experience.
If hiring a car isn’t your thing then consider using a private driver for some of the days on the island.
If you are only staying in Palermo or Catania you don’t need a car and I would avoid driving in these cities unless you have to.
Beaches and Islands of Sicily
Between the two cities and many places along the East coast such as Taormina you can use a train. There are also multiple bus companies offering routes across much of the island. I found reliability to vary, with some being punctual and others delayed. Comfort-wise, everything was great in my opinion.
Island and beach lover? Sicily has enough islands to fill a multi-week itinerary. And if you think I’m only talking about the Aeolians then you need to beach-hop straight over to my island guide and think again.
I’ve included a few activities in each place but below I’ve highlighted some of my all-time favourite activity ideas in Sicily. Anything to do with markets, food, wine and volcanos is what Sicily does best.
If you choose only one experience while in Sicily, make it a (good) food tour. Palermo is the best for this.
Get your guide has billion of options but always check the reviews carefully. Try to find one that is led by a native or long-term local who can not only guide you well but offer personal experience. My choices:
This is a run down of my personal favourite places I have visited in Sicily over the years. Rather than list every place I have visited I am only listing the places I truly believe are worth your time. Expect a broad range from tiny villages, remote islands and the best towns and cities.
At the end of the list I’ve included a few extras that are on my personal wish list – these are places I haven’t personally visited yet but researched heavily and are on my itinerary for my next trip to Sicily.
I couldn’t not start here. The best place to visit in Sicily – Palermo. Sicily’s capital is a raw, gritty, passionate and colourful clash of personalities. For me, Palermo is the place that defines Sicily because it is here you can see and feel it all. It captures the diversity of the culture better than any other place in the region. It is a world away from many EU cities and it remains my favourite city in Europe. Palermo is not a clean, sparkly city; it’s actually rather dirty but it also has soul. The city can be loud and brash but without a doubt, it’s people are some of the friendliest I’ve ever met.
Palermo Where to Stay
Casa Normanna | 1 bedroom apartment with original features, small balcony and equipped kitchenette. Central but quiet location
Palermo is the best place for food experiences in Sicily and also the street food capital of Italy. You absolutely must spend some time getting to know the markets and eating your way around. My full list of tried and tested restaurant recommendations can be found on the Sicily Travel Map but here a few of my absolute favourites below
Trattoria da Pino
Trattoria Familiare da Michele & Jolanda
Find dozens of Palermo restaurant suggestions on the Sicily Travel Map
Palermo What to Do
Visit the open air markets, the heart and soul of Palermo. Ballarò market is the ultimate Palermo experience and one of the best things to do in Sicily. Find a vendor (the louder the better) pick a few plates of street food and pull up a wooden stool in the madness. Panelle and octopus are popular snacks, as are spleen and intestines.
Explore the neighborhoods by taste. Food tours are one of the best ways to see the city. Check reviews carefully.
Food Tours in Palermo : Culinary Backstreets offer in-depth tours that go beyond the usual. I’ve used them in Italy and Portugal and I always come away learning something new. Since I also recommend them to my itinerary clients they have kindly offered 5% off for my readers. Use code CANDY5 at checkout.
Mondello
Modello is Palermo’s beach district and it’s where you’ll find the city locals hanging out on the weekend. The sweeping bay is visually striking and the sandy beach has plenty of space. I was surprised to find several excellent seafood restaurants here and it’s home to my favourite Spaghetti Vongole in the whole of Italy.
Mondello Where to Stay
Mondello is the place to base yourself if you are looking for a beach holiday with a side of city. There are some great vaue apartments close to the water Book well in advance if you’re visiting during the summer months.
I spent a few hours on Christmas day at Sant’Elia and it is one of my best memories of Sicily. I found the town by accident on a scooter ride from Palermo. The small coastal town has a small harbour as pretty as a postcard and still holds onto that undiscovered feeling. It also has a train station and you can reach it from Palermo in about 30 mins but the pretty parts are a half an hour walk. The town itself has a few great restaurants and is an enjoyable place to wander and soak up local life.
Scopello
One of the most captured places in Sicily but is it one of the best? There are plenty of gorgeous beaches in this area (see Zingaro below) and Scopello is one of them but it’s not the most beautiful. However, it’s an iconic Sicilian beach and you should definitely pay (and pay for) a visit. I’m not going to give away all the secrets but if you do a little bit of GoogleMap research you can find some equally, if not more, pretty beaches with fewer crowds a short scooter ride away.
One of the best places in Sicily to visit, without a doubt. This stretch of coast is unbelievably picturesque and still maintains its natural beauty which some other beach locations in Sicily do not. The 7km coastal hike will take you from cove to beautiful cove where you’ll find pebble beaches and turquoise waters.
Castellammare del Golfo
I spent 4 nights in an airbnb in Castellammare del Golfo working, but I had the mornings and evenings to take in this seaside town. The ocean here is crystal clear and is one of the best places to go for a dip in Sicily. Out of season you’ll also experience local life. There are some great bars by the harbour too.
Castellammare del Golfo Where to Stay
Castellammare is a gorgeous holidya but still local-feeling town to be based for a while. I spent a week out of season here and loved the mix of local markets, ocean swims and sea view restaurants. Book way in advance if you are coming in summer.
Way out west is the coastal city of Trapani, known for its fishing port and great seafood. This is also the gateway to the Egadi islands. One of the reasons I loved Trapani is the fresh sea air swirling around the streets. If you happen to be here on a Thursday you can visit the open air market between 8-13:30.
Trapani where to stay
Most people don’t stay in Trapani. It is usually used as a transit point for the Egadi islands but the town has a unique charm and I recommend spending a night if you can. While you are here drop by Gioielleria Rossocorallo for coral jewllery.
Trattoria al Solito Posto for an old-fashioned dining experience
Bar della Piazzetta for breakfast in a typical small piazza
Favignana (Egadi Islands)
The Egadi islands are one of the best places to visit in Sicily if you enjoy slow travel. Favignana, the most developed of the 3 is the perfect mix of grottos, sleepy roads for cycling and fantastic restaurants where you can sample all the best Sicilian treats. I spent 5 days on the islands during September and it is officially one of my favourite Sicily trips.
If you’re looking for somewhere simple to stay I can personally recommend the Terra del Sole holiday apartments in the centre of town, just a 5 minute walk from the Port. The owner is very accommodating and although the apartments are basic they are clean and comfortable.
If you’d like hotel facilities or a little more luxury try Villa Rocce Bianche
Erice
Erice’s height makes way for stunning views and a breathtaking drive. Spend a few hours wandering and don’t forget to go to the panoramic viewpoint.
Erice Where to Eat
One place you definitely need to stop off in Erice is for traditional sweets. Head to Pasticceria Maria Grammatico or Antica Pasticceria del Convento and pick up a few treats to try.
Camporeale(Agriturismo Tarantola Winery)
This is a town you very likely haven’t heard of but a great example of interior Sicilian living. I found Camporeale because I was spent the night at the Tarantola – get this booked up for your itinerary!
Salina(Aeolian Islands)
Oh Salina. What an island. One of the best islands to visit in Sicily. I’m confident this natural beauty will capture your heart as much as it did mine. Take the ferry to Rinella port rather than Santa Maria and base yourself in Leni for a more local feel or Malfa for a Ibiza-esque vibe. Summer prices here soar but in the off season you can find some real gems. Don’t be tempted to rush. Hire a car and spend a few days getting to know the nooks and coves.
I have to mention Villa Donatella. I spent 3 nights here in December (the depths of the off-season) and it was unbelievably special. The views are unbeatable (see photo below). If you’re coming to Selina and have a chance to stay here – do it!
The biggest and most populated island of the Aeolian islands Lipari has the biggest selection of accommodation, restaurants and activities. I preferred Salina overall but Lipari has more of a buzz about it and it’s a great place to start your Aeolian adventure.
Messina
This port town is a popular transfer spot for the Aeolian islands but if you have the time, spend a night before or after to get to know Messina a little better.
Taormina
This is the town I wanted to hate but loved. Probably the most well-known place to visit in Sicily, Taormina has earned a reputation as a real tourist town. It’s true it was built for tourism (at least, it is now) but it is still undeniably charming and I really loved my time there. My top tip to avoid the crowds would be to visit out of season, but if you are coming during the busy period stay in Mazzarò close to the sea rather than driving into Taormina, and take the cable car up instead.
Taormina where to stay
Taormina is a strange place when it comes to accommodation. Prices don’t always reflect quality. My main piece of advice is to check reviews carefully. There are some apartments with gorgeous views but usually with very dated furnishings.
I can’t not mention the most famous place to get granita in Sicily. Bam Bar is renowned as being the best granita in Sicily and since granita is one of my top 5 favourite foods (ever) I was dying to try it. Bam bar is all over social media so I was sceptical but I can’t deny it, the granita here is excellent and the overall scenery and atmosphere is an experience in itself. I went back 3 times in 2 days to try as many flavours as possible. Of the 6 I tried the mandarin, raspberry and almond were my favourites.
Home to the best pistachios in Italy (and maybe the world?). Bronte is one of the best places to visit in Sicily for a foodie experience. Famous for the pistachios that grow in the foothills of Etna this town has a couple of standout restaurants and the best pistachio gelato I’ve had in my life at the legendary Caffetteria Luca.
San Teodoro
The drive between here and Bronte is one of my favourites for views in Sicily. This tiny town has an interesting layout and an epic backdrop.
Etna
Just wow. I still can’t get over how freaking cool Etna is. It is, without a doubt, the jewel of Sicily. The active volcano erupts regularly, but don’t worry Etna’s flow rarely disrupts travel or causes safety issues. It is well monitored and maintained. It is one of the only places on Sicily where you can experience snow and witnessing the sun set on the highest point of the island across black rock is a truly memorable experience.
Catania
The second biggest city in Sicily. Of the two cities (which have a rivalry) I preferred Palermo but having the spectacle that is Etna so close by is hard to ignore. Catania has a tonne of history, markets and fantastic restaurants to jump into.
Ortigia
One of my all time favourite and best places to visit in Sicily is Ortigia island. It’s a place I return to time and time again because it ticks all my boxes. The small old town is a maze of cobbled streets with hidden restaurants and shops that are super enjoyable to wander. But the best part is that it is surrounded by the ocean, and you can see the sunrise from the sea and then dip back into it after a day of meandering.
This is a notable town for Sicilian baroque architecture and it can feel a bit like walking around an open-air museum. The town was flattened by an earthquake in 1693 and rebuilt on a new site. Many of the most recognizable buildings were designed by Vincenzo Sinatra. The town hall or Palazzo Ducezio is one of these buildings.
Modica
Another favourite town of mine in Sicily is Modica. It was here I had some of my favourite foodie experiences and it is probably the town I enjoyed wandering around the most. Modica is a great example of mixing tourism with local life and doing it right. Definitely add this to your Sicily itinerary!
Osteria Ricotta & Co – ricotta themed and one of the best pasta dishes I’ve ever had. Simple, fresh and comforting.
Bar del Duomo a morning coffee spot, completely hidden and unassumming with a spectacular view
Accursio Radici – typical Sicilian dishes
Modica What to Do
Visit the oldest chocolate factory in Italy – Dolceria Bonajuto which also offers short tours
Visit the Duomo di San Giorgio at midday to see the sundial in action
Take the tourist train to the panoramic viewpoint
Chocolate in Modica
Chocolate was brought to Modica during the Spanish domination of Sicily, and is made using an ancient Aztec process and tools. It excludes the melting of the sugar crystals which gives the chocolate a more coarse and crumbly bite. Most people are surprised by the texture. The beauty is the natural flavors that are added
I Sapori degli Iblei offers a 3 hour artisan chocolate making workshop if you want to go beyond just eating it.
A bigger, more popular version of Modica with impressive architecture.
Agrigento
Cheating a little bit here because I only drove through Agrigento and didn’t stay or explore. If you’ve already done some planning you’ll know this is a popular place to visit in Sicily and one of the best places to revel amongst ancient history. I did see the sights from a distance and it was impressive even whilst moving so I’ll be back to get a closer look.
Lampedusa (Pelagie islands)
Lampedusa is remote a island, and the most southerly point of Sicily, Italy and Europe. This small rocky island is home to white sand beaches, sparkling blue coves and a natural reserve with turtle hatching ground. It’s pretty unknown outside of Italy and a beautiful location to enjoy slow travel.
I must admit I didn’t fall in love with Sciacca the way I was hoping too. I was fully drawn into the pastel hued houses tumbling down to the harbour but Sciacca has more grit than glam – which isn’t a bad thing. It is definitely a place to experience local life, and I think if you’re open minded that’s what you can take away from Sciacca. Pair this with a trip to the west coast.
Ribera
This was a total accidental find and I’m so happy about it. I was on my way to Sciacca but wanted to grab lunch before so I drove into Ribera on a whim. There isn’t much here but it was a joy to walk around the streets and I felt like I was truly seeing the real Sicily. To top it off I had a great meal at a backstreet gem of a restaurant Vineria Tanto di Cappello.
My Sicily Wish List
Portopalo
The most southerly point of Sicily (one of the three points of the flag).
Castelbuono
This historical town is set in an area I have yet to explore. If you want to get a bit more off the beaten path in Sicily and you’d rather explore the mountains than the beaches then head to Madonie park.
Enna
Drove past a million times but still haven’t made it.
Filicudi & Alicudi
The smallest and wildest of the Aeolian islands. Cannot wait to adventure here!
I partner with some booking platforms such as BookingCom and Zest which means some links in my travel guides are affiliate links. This means if you click on a link and then make a booking, the platform splits their commission from the booking with me. The commission is usually just a few euros and is what I use to host my website each year. You don’t have to read many of my guides to realise everything is written from scratch and my recommendations come from personal experience. I don’t use any ads on my website or in my travel guides.
Overrated Places to visit in Sicily
I didn’t love everywhere I visited in Sicily. Like any place in the world, Sicily has some highly touristic places that are usually still very pretty but have (more often than not) lost their original charm. This isn’t to say you won’t enjoy them or even that you shouldn’t visit but if you have limited time I would skip these in favour of the places above.
Marzamemi
I was in two minds whether to include this or not. The hamlet next to the sea is undeniably pretty with its picturesque square and twinkly lights and for that reason it is worth a wander. However, I was really disappointed with the restaurants. It is rare to find poor food/dining experiences in Italy but Marzamemi was that for me. Expensive and poor quality restaurants and that feeling that you’re getting ripped off simply because it is a popular place. Drop by this cute spot but drive on by and stay in a different location such as Modica for a more authentic and enjoyable experience.
Scala di Turki (Turkish Steps)
Maybe it’s because you can no longer walk on the “steps” (a decision I wholeheartedly agree with) but I just don’t get it. The cliffs and beaches here are nothing special, considering the other options you have in Sicily and I don’t think it’s worth the traffic, parking and crowds. If you happen to be here out of the main season then take a peek but don’t go out of your way to add this to your itinerary.
Cefalù
Meh. A long favourite holiday destination is the very pretty Cefalù. In my opinion this town has lost a lot of its local charm even if it does have a beautiful bay. It is reachable by train from Palermo which is a plus, but if you have a car I would explore the beaches west of Palermo instead.
I hope this guide for the best places to visit in Sicily helps you put together a brilliant itinerary for Sicily whether you’re travelling for 5 days, 2 weeks or 3 months. Use this travel guide with the Sicily Travel Map and you’ll have everything you need to create the perfect trip to this wonderful region.
If you want to plan a trip to Sicily or Italy but you are overwhelmed by the possibilities I can help you cut through the information and plan out a perfect itinerary based on your travel style.
Siena, Tuscany. A mediaeval city in the heart of the Tuscan hills. Only 1h15 from Florence, Siena is an obvious and easy day trip. However, I urge you to spend a night or two to experience Siena in all its unexpected glory.
If you’re planning a trip to Italy you’ll find lots of helpful resources and services here.
I recently went on a turbo trip to Tuscany with a friend. We spent 5 nights in interior Tuscany traipsing city walls, peeking behind doors and gobbling up ridiculously good pasta.
I decided Siena deserves a special mention because it surprised me more than any other place we visited. We spent two nights here and it is the one place I felt like I needed more time in. It is also the only place I am confident I will return to.
I hope you can use this as a starting travel guide for Siena and I’ll update it with future visits.
Inside the city walls. Airbnb and Booking have plenty of options. We stayed in the Nicchio area which is one of the outer areas and still only a 10 min walk from Piazza del Campo. This two bed apartment is in a great location and has a gorgeous terrace view. See some different options here.
When to Visit Siena
I’m giving you this information as someone who has only visited Siena in April but from my research spring and autumn are ideal seasons. The festive season would also be a pretty time to be in Siena with all the twinkly lights and red wine. Summer temps reach scorching and crowds can be stifling in July and August but it is these months you also have the famous Palio di Siena (more below). This bucket list worthy event books up super early so plan in advance if you want to be a part of it.
Best experiences & things to do in Siena
I was not expecting to find so much to see and do in Siena and I found myself buzzing with excitement at every corner. Siena, like any town in Tuscany has the usual tourist style attractions; a big busy square with inflated prices, a tower to climb, souvenir shops with colourful pasta etc, but besides that is also has some rather gorgeous city walls to wander, partnered with a lively atmosphere. Siena is not solely enjoyed by tourists, it has real local life which is sometimes lost in historically important towns in regions like Tuscany. We were there during a national holiday so the bars were perhaps a little busier than usual but because Siena is also university town the city stays awake later. It isn’t only tourists that roam the streets and frequent the bars and restaurants. The streets really come alive during the evenings (weekends and holidays especially) which makes a nice change from some of the smaller, sleepier Tuscan towns.
For me Siena has the perfect size and energy level; sitting somewhere between the bigger, more hectic Florence and the smaller, quieter villages like Lucca (also worth a stop!).
Coffee on the steps at Piazza del Campo
Pick up a take-away coffee and drink it right on the steps. We grabbed ours from the traditional and popular Torrefazione Fiorella.
After coffee you can climb Torre del Mangia (€10) for a better view. We skipped this because the weather wasn’t great, but I’ll be back to take it on next time.
Piazza del Campo is the main piazzas in Siena and follows the same rule as most main piazzas, very busy and with inflated prices. There are a few lively bars just off the piazza with small balconies such as Bar San Paolo.
Visit a Palio museum
If I’m being honest, even if I knew there was a palio museum before my visit, it wouldn’t have been something I made a priority. However, our accidental discovery of the Contrada Tartuca Museum turned out to be my favourite activity during our time in Siena. This was the most unexpected experience while in Siena, and in some ways what made the city feel so special.
Siena is home to 17 Contrade (areas) which are like small villages within the city walls, each with its own emblem, animal and colours. The 17 Contrade are part of the famous palio race that happens each year. The Contrade are…
Once you know this you’ll start noticing them all over the city. Each Contrada has its own museum showcasing banners painted by famous artists worldwide, fabulous costumes and intricate decorations from the palio throughout history. The passion the locals have for this event is unrivalled. I cannot stress enough how impressive the museum we visited was.
I definitely recommend you carve out an hour of your itinerary to visit a Palio museum while in Siena so that you can understand how important this tradition is. I would go as far as saying that without a visit to a contrada palio museum you have not seen Siena, because Siena is the Palio.
We only visited the Tartuca Contrada museum but there is a choice of 17 so it’s worth a bit more research if you want to visit a different one.
The Palio di Siena is a bi-annual horse race that takes place in the main square Piazza del Campo. The historical event has been running since at least the 6th century. 10 horses and jockeys (out of a possible 17) are selected for the race. The 17 contrade represent 17 areas of the city of Siena, each with their own elaborate decoration, emblems and costumes.
The Contrada selects the jockey they want to race but the horses are only drawn 4 days before the race. The Palio di Siena is the only horse race in the world where a horse can win without a jockey. The hectic 3 lap race is unlike any other.
Without visiting one of the museums it is impossible to know the work that goes on behind the scenes for these two short races. The Palio is deeply rooted in the city and its people. Read more about the Palio here.
Contrada Treasure Hunt
After visiting the museum we had a lightbulb moment and realised why we kept noticing shells around the area of the city we were staying. We were staying in Nicchio, one of the 17 contrade. The Nicchio contrada’s emblem is a shell.
It was surprisingly fun spotting the different contrade emblems as we wandered around the streets. Once you are familiar with the 17 contrade you’ll start noticing the emblems all over the city – see how many you can find. This “game” helps you notice all the beautiful details of Siena and will leave you feeling a little closer to the city.
Go Fountain Spotting
If you haven’t got enough to look out for, Siena is also home to a wondrous array of weird and wonderful, sculptured fountains. The beautiful wolf fountain in Piazza del Campo is worth a glance but also look out for the brass heads with protruding tongues.
Eat, eat, eat (but book in advance)
I don’t think anyone needs convincing that Tuscan dining is delicious. Italy, after all, is one of the best cuisines in the world. My one regret leaving Siena (and the main reason I’ll be returning sooner rather than later) is that I missed out on so many amazing restaurants. We passed by an obscene number of restaurants full to the brim with locals devouring steaming bowls of homemade pasta and other delightful delicacies. As we were there during the national holiday many places were fully booked, but even on an average day I recommend booking evening restaurants in advance because Europe only appears to be getting busier.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN SIENA
There is no shortage of fantastic traditional restaurants in Siena. We loved poking our heads in all the tiny, loally run establishments.
Restaurant Recommendations Siena
Osteria degli Svitati Open for lunch & dinner. Closed on Sunday. Book in advance. After much Google research I found this little gem of a restaurant. This was actually one I booked in advance and I’m so glad i did because the ragu was to die for.
Cute traditional restaurant in the Nicchio area. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a tagliatelle and risotto dish with one of my favourite wines of the trip.
Birra Bader Open evenings all week. Lunchtime Saturday and Monday.
We didn’t eat here but spent our first evening in Siena drinking great wine at this packed to the rafters beerhouse with live music. We were there on a holiday which likely made it busier but you could tell this was a popular spot amongst locals and it had a fun vibe.It also has an interesting history!
Caffè Le Logge Head here for aperitivos. Two spritz (try the Hugo if you haven’t already) for €10 with aperitivo (we had a whole pizza). Looks like they have a great cocktail menu too.
Pasticceria Gelateria Nocino Open from 6:30am. Closed on Mondays. Located just outside the city walls. This local coffee and pastry shop turned out to be one of my favourite coffees in Tuscany. Local vibes and excellent croissants.
Restaurants and Bars I’m going back for….
La Prosciutteria Crudi e Bollicine This spot is known for Tagliere, which are huge boards of cured meats and cheese. This would be a great aperitivo place before a later dinner. The atmosphere is cosy yet busy with strange but fun decor. Osteria Quattro Venti We poked our head in here and it looked like a gorgeous place for dinner. Candle-lit tables indoors and a few tables spilling out onto the street.
Osteria Nonna Gina Traditional dishes and amazing prices. The food looks rustic and delicious and it has great reviews. First on my list when I return!
Trefilari Wine Bar This wine bar has two locations on the same street and both were bustling.
So there you have it! A quick roundup of one of Tuscany’s crown jewels – Siena!
I’m already planning a stop off here during my next trip to Tuscany so I’ll update this guide then.
Heading to Amalfi coast? Calabria? Basilicata? Sicily?
Need help planning a trip to Italy? I’m an independent travel consultant and trip planner – I’d love to help you craft the perfect itinerary based on my in depth knowledge and your travel style.
