So, you’re planning a trip to the magnificent region of Andalusia in Spain and are hoping to stumble across the best, and most authentic Pueblos Blancos while you’re there?
You’re in the right place.
I recently returned from my 4th trip to Andalusia and while I am still a long way from seeing all the magical Pueblos Blancos I want to see in this vast region, I now feel armed to share the best of what I’ve found so far. If you’re planning a trip to Andalusia, first check out my
Spain’s Pueblos Blancos are definitely no secret. If you’re planning a trip to Andalusia you’ll likely already know about these pretty white villages. I’m twenty years late in discovering Andalusia’s magical Pueblos Blancos. I can only imagine how remote and untouched some of them were back in the 80’s and 90’s. I spent my twenties focused on surfing my way around Asia and central America, continental Europe and its pretty towns never got a look in. That was until I moved to Portugal in 2016 and I finally realised the wealth of culture and experiences on my doorstep. Since then I have been travelling across Portugal, Spain and Italy extensively. After years of planning solo road trips, remote village stays, beach get-aways and mountain hikes I now help others plan their perfect trip to Europe. With a focus on experiencing every destination fully, constantly seeking out the most authentic places and unique stays, my guides are different from most you can find online. Never rushed, never regurgitated, and only ever written from personal experience. All photos are my own – please do not use without credit.
Why Visit Andalusia?
There are many reasons why Andalusia is the perfect travel destination. Not least to mention the diversity of coast and mountain, sand and snow, wine and…sherry?, and cheese, oh my the cheese. But perhaps above all, the best reason to visit Andalusia is the heavy sprinkling of white villages that cover the region, better known as Pueblos Blancos. Some sprawling, some teeny tiny, some towering high like royalty, others crumbling down to the earth; all of them with tales of an interesting past. Thanks to its many influences throughout history, Andalucia’s culture is rich and diverse.
What are The Pueblos Blancos?
‘Pueblo Blanco’ translates as white village in Spanish. The “official” Pueblos Blancos refer to 19 picturesque whitewashed villages in Andalusia located between Cadiz and Malaga. However most guides also include the dozens of other white hilltop villages that can be found across the region under this same title. The villages I mention in this travel guide are a mix of “official” Pueblos Blancos and some lesser known white villages; all of which are worth your time.
This guide is focused on the Pueblos Blancos in Andalusia. If you want a more in-depth look at the region then check out my Andalusian Road Trip Travel Guide. You can also take a peek at the following individual Spain travel guides…
So, let’s get this show on the road! Which Pueblos Blancos are the best to visit in Andalusia? Here’s my picks…
Arcos de la Frontera
One of the biggest and more well known Pueblos Blancos in Andalusia, Arcos de la Frontera is a must-visit stop to add to your road trip itinerary. Arcos is a well organised town and despite the jumble of streets you’ll find your way round in no time.
Top Tip: Don’t try and drive to the old town. The streets are extremely narrow. Keep these streets for the locals. There is free street parking just before you reach the old town, although this can get busy. Alternatively you can use the underground parking.
Where to stay in Arcos de la Frontera
I spent a night at La Casa Grande but it could have easily been 4. It reminded me a little of the luxury riads you can find in Morocco. The rooms all have original features and the rooftop balcony surely has the best view in town.
Where to Eat + Drink in Arcos de la Frontera
These two restaurants sit side by side but both Taberna Jóvenes Flamencos and La Cárcel serve up traditional dishes and have pretty patio seating.
Best Experiences in Arcos de la Frontera
A fun and novel experience in Arcos de la Frontera is buying convent cookies from the nuns at Comunidad de Mercedarias Descalzas. Enter the convent, choose your cookies and request them through the tinted screen. the turnstile will then reveal your cookies. It costs between €7 and €8 for a box of handmade cookies and the money goes back into the convent.
Vejer de la Frontera
One of my absolute favourite Pueblo Blancos. Situated only 20 mins from the coast and just 45 minutes from Cadiz. Small enough to feel special, big enough to fill a day or two of your itinerary. Seek out hidden rooftop cafes and soak up the sun in Plaza de España.
Where to stay in Vejer de la Frontera
Casablanca Relax y Baño Termal. This boutique hotel has a spa and a hot spring bath (check the photos – honestly it’s stunning!).
There are lots of airbnb type properties in Vejer too, this apartment would be my pick for no other reason than that amazing terrace view.
I’ve written a complete guide to Vejer de la Frontera so for a more in-depth look at this gorgeous hilltop town >> VEJER DE LA FRONTERA TRAVEL GUIDE.
Zahara de la Sierra
The roads leading to Zahara de la Sierra are nothing short of spectacular. The lake appears suddenly as you round a bend, like a sparkling blue mirage. Then the castle topped village pops up ahead with a ribbon of white houses – one of the official 19 Pueblos Blancos in Andalusia.
For some truly cheap and tasty tapas at an authentic bar drive the few short minutes to Venta Restaurante El Cortijo or enjoy front row seats of the lake at the very pretty Meson Oñate.
Grazalema
I accidentally found Grazalema while driving between Ronda and Zahara de la Sierra. At the time I thought I had discovered a hidden gem (it definitely has that kind of undiscovered vibe still) but Grazalema is well known within Andalusia and for good reason. This village sits in the middle of the natural park and has breathtaking views of Sierra del Pinar. This is another area that shouldn’t be rushed. Take your time driving here and definitely head out on a hike or two in Sierra de Grazalema natural park. Grazalema is a Pueblo Blanco I will continue to return to time and time again!
Where to stay in Grazalema
Tambor del Lano is set in nature with a year round pool, about 2km from the centre.
Grazalema’s best kept secret is the municipal pool. Arrive for opening and pay the huge sum of 1 euro to enjoy what I guarantee will be one of the best swimming pool views of your life. Wander the streets and pick up local products such as honey or handmade straw baskets.
Montecorto
I’m claiming it – my favourite Pueblo Blanco in all of Andalusia (so far). This tiny little village is conveniently situated close to the popular Ronda and tantalisingly close to the edge of the Grazalema natural park yet feels totally undiscovered. It’s tiny but still packs some beautiful streets, a couple of local bars and a swimming pool.
Where to stay in Montecorto
I love Montecorto but I would be lying if I said that El Molino Abuelo had nothing to do with that. This sustainable family-run guesthouse is one of the most memorable places I have stayed in Spain and probably my favourite stop of my 10 day Andalusia road trip. I stayed in the Celestine room; the comfy bed, spacious bathroom and the balcony view were just a few things that I loved about this special place. If that hasn’t sold you then look at the rooftop pool! Do yourself a favour and order the breakfast too.
Where to Eat + Drink in Montecorto
El Molino has a kitchen where you can prepare snacks to enjoy on the terrace. I spent an afternoon sipping wine and eating Iberian ham with those incredible views of the natural park.
Best Experiences in Montecorto
Montecorto itself doesn’t have any particular attractions but it does have an outdoor pool and is the start of a couple of hiking trails. Apart from this, pull up a chair at one of the local bars, soak up the sun and watch life go by. This little hidden gem is the perfect place to unwind and be still.
El Gastor
Another impossibly pretty Pueblo Blanco just begging to be walked around. I only spent a few hours one afternoon here and so don’t feel totally equipped to give you all the details but I will say it’s definitely worth a stop off and I’ll absolutely be staying for a night or two next time I’m in the area. Let me know what you find!
Ronda is probably one of, if not the most popular Pueblo Blanco in Andalusia. In the summer months it can get very busy but crowds aside there is no denying the beauty of the town. It’s well worth a visit, even more so if you can come outside of season.
Where to stay in Ronda
Catalonia Ronda 4 star hotel with huge outdoor pool (perfect for summer) with countryside views
This little gem was a complete accidental find when planning my drive between Estepona and Jerez. I walked up to the town from the bottom car park and what looked like an abandoned castle slowly morphed into a hidden Pueblo Blanco full of tiny streets and flower pots. There are some amazing rural stays inside the walls but you may have to book in advance to enjoy one.
Where to stay in Castillo de Castellar
Tugasa Casas is one of the only available stays in the castle walls. It’s such a unique location. The town is mostly set up for tourists so there isn’t loads to do there but it is undeniably pretty and I would definitely recommend staying a night.
Alternatively you could stay at the bottom of the hill in this hotel.
Where to Eat + Drink in Castillo de Castellar
I didn’t get a chance to try out any restaurants when I was here but there were a couple of lovely looking places including Peña Flamenca.
Iznájar
This Pueblo Blanco was recommended to me by a friend. I was disappointed with myself for not already knowing about Iznájar because it is exactly my vibe; perched high up on a hill, overlooking a massive blue river with a beach and full of very authentic tapas bars and restaurants. You can reach Iznájar in just 1 hour 15 from Córdoba, and it sits just below Parque natural de las Sierras Subbéticas.
Where to stay in Iznájar
I spent two nights in Villa Moana just a few minutes walk from the famous blue potted streets and the guesthouse is up there with my Andalusian favourite stays. A huge delicious breakfast is included and if you happening to be traveling solo the private patio with the single room is a lovely bonus addition to your room.
Best Experiences in Iznájar
Patio De Las Comedias is the most photographed street in town and definitely worth a wander. It’s impossible not to feel uplifted by the bright colours. Walk up to this miradouro for sunset and then order a few drinks (with free tapas) at the best bar in town – the open air theatre.
Zuheros
Just an hour away from Córdoba Zuheros sits on the edge of Parque natural de las Sierras Subbéticas and is the start to some great hiking trails. The compact size of Zuheros doesn’t take away from the charm of this little known Pueblo Blanco.
Wander the village before setting off on and easy 2.4km hike.
How to Travel Around Andalusia
The best way to travel around Andalusia is by car. Without your own wheels you are limited to public transport (of which there is very little outside of the cities) or guided tours which remove the freedom and flexibility to discover the region at your own pace. You don’t have to search far on my website to see I’m a huge road trip advocate. If you really want to make the most of Andalusia and get up close and personal with the many Pueblos Blancos the region has to offer bring a car or hire one.
I always use Zest to help me find a hire car in Portugal, Spain and Italy. After one too many bad experiences with providers when I found Zest I finally took a sigh of relief. I mention them in my guides a lot because they really have taken me on driving adventures all over Europe.
I really enjoyed writing this guide on the best Pueblos Blancos in Andalusia but not as much as I enjoyed visiting them. I hope this can help get you started on which Pueblos Blancos to add to your Andalusia Itinerary.
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If you want to plan the perfect trip but there are just too many options, I can help you make the most of your time. If you want a personalised travel itinerary, full to the brim with authentic experiences, I’ve got you…
I have just returned from my 4th road trip through Andalusia, my longest to date. The latest 10 day mid-summer adventure took me on some of the country’s most breathtaking roads, through natural beauty and countless quaint ‘pueblos blancos’. I finally feel ready to share everything I’ve learned from driving around Spain’s second largest region. This guide can help you plan a road trip around Andalusia at any time of year but I’ve also included a section for those wanting to take on the heat of summer.
If you’re new here you can rest easy, my travel guides are different to most you find online because they are written from personal experience. I’ve been travelling around Portugal, Spain and Italy since 2016 always seeking out the most authentic experiences and sharing them with you. I’m proud of my travel guides because they are written from the heart of experience.
Sitting in the heat of the south, Andalusia is appropriately nicknamed ‘the frying pan’ of Spain. You can expect blue skies and warm weather year round but it isn’t just the agreeable weather that should make you want to book a trip to this region. Long stretches of beach meet tumbling down Pueblo Blancos and exotic cities fade into grand mountains and stunning natural parks. This region in particular lends itself to driving more than any other in Spain. When you get out of the cities and tourist hot spots it’s easy to find stretches of tarmac to call your own and you’ll quickly find yourself oohing and aahing at Andalusia’s natural beauty.
Located at the bottom of mainland Spain. It’s the 2nd largest region and boasts over 1000 km of coast. Andalusia’s highest point is Mt. Mulhacen in the Sierra Nevada national park.
International airports include Seville, Granada and Malaga. The Spanish regions bordering Andalusia are Murcia, Extremedura and Castilla – La Mancha. If you’re driving from Portugal there are several border crossings from Algarve and Alentejo. You can reach Andalusia from Morocco by boat using the Tangier – Tarifa crossing.
How to Plan a Road Trip in Andalusia
Andalusia is the ultimate road trip destination thanks to the diversity of cities, towns, villages, natural parks and coast to explore. Outside of the bigger cities of Seville, Malaga and Granada, the roads are generally quiet and easy to navigate. All you need is a car, a rough plan and a sense of adventure and you are ready to road trip your way around this mesmerising region.
The short answer to this question is whenever you are able to. But to be able to make the most of the region and to do it comfortably I would recommend shoulder seasons May/June or September/October. Christmas and New Year are twinkly times to visit the bigger cities and the first few months of the year are great for Sierra Nevada if you’re hoping to hit the slopes. Many will tell you to avoid cities like Seville or to miss out Andalusia all together in the summer months because of the heat/crowds. However, having now completed two road trips in August I’m going to go and say don’t let this stop you. Summer is an amazing time to visit the region; you just need to be prepared to make a few changes to how (and how quickly) you do things.
How to navigate Andalusia in summer
Summer is scorching hot in Andalusia and things work a little different at this time of year. Temperatures in the interior can reach mid 40’s and even the coast remains sweltering. The majority of shops, restaurants, bars etc close in the afternoons between 3pm-8pm. Most people sit down for dinner at 9/10pm at the earliest (kids included). The beach destinations such as Costa del Sol are at their peak busyness but in stark contrast much of the interior is sleepy and slow.
Summer road trips call for long afternoon siestas and early morning and late night experiences. Summer road trips do offer a chance to slow down, and experience everything deeper. While some towns and cities can be busier in summer (especially on the coast) this time of year is always when the locals go on holiday leaving many interior towns and villages quieter and calmer than you would expect. The beauty of road trips at this time of year is that the roads are almost entirely empty in the afternoon. As long as you are sensible and take it slow you can experience the beauty of southern Spain without another soul.
Top Tips
Do as the locals do
Do pull the shutters down/ Seek shade
Do embrace the power of an afternoon nap
Do your sightseeing before 11am
Do enjoy cold Salmorejo at every opportunity
Do wear lightweight clothing
Do drink plenty of fluids
Don’t overdo the alcohol
Don’t rush your itinerary
Don’t leave the house without water
Do listen to your body
Mondays/Tuesday closures
In most smaller towns and villages (and some larger ones too) shops, restaurants and attractions close on Monday and/or Tuesday. If you have the flexibility, stay in the larger cities (Seville, Granada etc) on these days where there will be more options open. Alternatively rent an apartment with a kitchen, stock up on some food from the market and create your own tapas evening.
Hiring a car in Andalusia is easy. To start with, work out where you will be arriving. The best cities to rent a car from are Seville, Malaga and Granada but there are many other locations across the region. It is possible to drop the car in a different location in the region (and indeed Spain) but be prepared to pay extra for this. I personally always use Zest for my car hire in Spain (and in Portugal and Italy) because they offer fully comp insurance as standard and the customer service is quick and friendly.
To use Zest enter your desired pick up and drop off location, dates and driver’s age. Then filter the list as you wish. Maybe you want an automatic? or a particular size or model of car? Once you have applied your filters you’ll be shown a list of companies offering what you want. The price you see upfront is the price you pay, there are no sneaky extras added at checkout. Remember, most hire companies require a credit card and will want to put a hold on an amount (usually a few hundred euros). Don’t forget to bring one!
Want to pick up from a different location ? Search here
Driving in Andalusia
If it’s your first time driving in Spain it’s natural to have some concerns or worries, especially if you are coming from outside of continental Europe, but don’t worry. I’m here to tell you – driving in Andalusia is easy! Despite any rumours you’ve heard about the Spanish (or Portuguese or Italians) being bad drivers I can assure you there are no more bad drivers here than in whichever country you are from. I’ve driven solo all over Europe and I have never had any major issues with navigating or “bad” drivers. Believe me, if I can drive solo through mountain roads, natural parks and tiny villages, anyone can!
A few important pointers…
In Spain (and the rest of continental Europe) we drive on the right hand side.
Manual cars are not that common in Spain but there are still plenty of manual options available to hire – search on Zest.
Some of the mountain roads are (obviously) windy but as long as you keep your eyes on the road (not your phone!) you won’t have any problems.
The majority of roads are well paved but the more ‘off the beaten path’ you go the more likely you are to experience potholes or other small annoyances.
Avoid driving in Seville and Granada at rush hour. If you can, aim to arrive in the bigger cities early in the morning.
The toll road between Malaga and Marbella/Estepona can get very busy in the summer months.
When you get to the natural parks you’ll want to stop at every corner because the scenery is just so beautiful. As tempting as it might be to just pull over and take a quick snap, don’t do it. Instead drive on until you find a waiting spot. There are a surprising amount of viewpoints in the natural parks and you won’t have to drive far to find one.
Avoid driving through the ‘old town’ of any pueblo blanco you are visiting unless it is absolutely necessary. These narrow, often cobbled streets can be difficult to navigate if you don’t know the town, which means at best you end up frustrating the local people who are simply trying to get to work, or at worst getting yourself stuck (cringe). These streets are best admired on foot. The exception is if your guesthouse/hotel has given you exact instructions to get you to where you need to go. If you do find yourself needing to drive through the smaller villages, aim to do it outside of the busy times of day.
Don’t be afraid of taking the smaller roads outside of the pueblos. Some of my best adventures have been when I’ve switched off motorways on GoogleMaps. Set aside some extra time driving between destinations and see what you can find.
Do leave time for ‘getting lost’. Part of the joy of road trips is the freedom it gives you to discover the wonders of the world you can’t reach with public transport. If you plan every hour of every day you’ll no doubt miss out on some of the best of the country. Andalusia has an abundance of hidden gems, go find them!
As soon as you get off the motorway in Andalusia (and sometimes even on the motorway) you’ll find yourself surrounded by gorgeous views for miles and miles. There are so many stretches of road to enjoy through out the region but some there are some in particular that are definitely worth including in your road trip itinerary (note that some of these are not suitable for motorhomes or larger vans).
A-372 between El Bosque and Grazalema
CA-P-5131 Between Castellar de la Frontera and Castillo de Castellar
MA-5043 + MA-4401 Between El Chorro and Valle de Abdalajís
What to Pack For Your Road Trip in Andalusia
This largely depends on what you plan on doing but there are a few basics not to forget.
Good driving shoes/sneakers. Flip flops and sandals do not make great driving shoes so make sure you have a pair of comfortable sneakers.
Water. It’s unlikely you’re going to break down but just in case you should always have some water and snacks in the car. This is really important in summer when temperatures can be very high, even waiting 20 minutes for a pick up truck can be exhausting. Keep a few big bottles of water in the boot just in case.
GoogleMaps. If you’re hiring a car you may already have sat nav included but if not, I use GoogleMaps on your phone or bluetooth to navigate. This app is one of my most used travel apps. I pin everything I want to visit so that when I’m travelling around I can see what’s closeby.
An actual map. I know it’s 2023 and we can do literally everything on our phone but sometimes you can’t beat an old school map. In some more remote places there is no phone signal so it’s great to have a back up.
Cigarette car charger/ phone charging cables. To keep you connected.
Swimwear. If you’re travelling in the summer months you’ll find outdoor pools in most cities and large towns, sometimes in villages too. Not to mention the lakes, rivers and ocean. There are lots of opportunities to cool down so don’t leave home without some swimming gear.
A tent/ camping gear. If you are absolutely sure you won’t be camping then there is obviously no need to do this. However if you are open to camping, stick a small tent and sleeping bag in the back. You never know what quirky campsite or wild camping spot you may find. Remember wild camping is illegal. If you do choose to stay somewhere, make sure you are not on someone’s property, and you must arrive late, leave early and take everything with you. Most importantly – no fires! Respect this beautiful landscape and the people and wildlife that call it home.
Toll Roads and Parking in Andalusia
The majority of Andalusia is toll-free however there are a few you should be aware of. Toll roads are classed as AP rather than just A. The toll roads are located on the Costa del Sol between Malaga and Marbella, Marbella and Estepona and Estepona to Soto Grande. This stretch of motorway is one of the busiest in summer. You can find out more here.
Parking availability varies widely. In big cities such as Seville and Granada it is not easy to find free parking but in smaller towns and villages you can often find free street parking. Something worth noting is many of the Pueblos have an old town and a new town. The old towns usually consist of very narrow streets and extremely limited parking. All these towns have paid and sometimes free parking areas outside of the old town. Do your research first.
There is an app called ParkEasy which can be used in many places in Europe including Spain. However the extra charge for using this often outweighs the efficiency of it.
Andalusia Road Trip Itinerary
The freedom that comes with a set of wheels and the open road ahead of you is unrivalled. There is no need to follow a set itinerary in Andalusia if you don’t want to. You can simply set off on an adventure and see what you find. Of course, it helps to have a few destinations in mind so you can make the most of the region. During peak season some accommodation in these cities and towns can fill up so you may choose to book these places in advance if possible. While I enjoy the spontaneity that comes with road trips and travel in general I’m a planner by heart (and by job!) so as always many, many hours of research goes into my trips. I’ve visited each and everyone of the destinations mentioned in this itinerary and guide.
For a deeper dive into the best and most authentic pueblos to add to your Andalusia itinerary cruise on over to…
In the meantime here are a few must-visit stops to add to your Andalusia Road Trip Itinerary
Seville
An obvious destination and a great choice to start your Andalusia road trip. Sizzling Seville, one of the sunniest and warmest cities in Europe; home to moorish history galore, authentic flamenco and far too much amazing cheese. This is also a great place to pick up a hire car and start your journey from west to east. Parking in Seville is not so easy, so if you’re picking up your hire car in Seville, wait until you’re ready to move on to the next destination.
Seville Where to Stay >> For a budget stay with possibly the best rooftop terrace in the city check in to Pension Perez Montilla I stayed here during a very quick stop off and although basic, the room was super comfortable.
Staying a few days? I would grab an apartment and make the most of having your own space to rest in the city. Casa Triana 1888 has 2 apartments both with terraces and a pool. Free airport taxi too!
If you’re wanting to splurge then definitely pick Hotel Casa Palacio Don Ramón or Nobu Sevilla. They beat the usual chain hotels by a mile and they feel like an absolute treat.
Seville Eats + Drinks >> Share some plates of jamon at the oldest tapas restaurant in Seville El Rinconcillo, enjoy Spanish omelette with whiskey sauce at Carmela, or see what awaits you on the menu at my personal favourite is La Teresas.
Seville Experiences >>
Book a tapas and taverns tour with Spain experts Devour. Or get pinning GoogleMaps and plan your own tapas crawl.
Visit the grand and exotic Real Alcázar. Undeniably magical.
Hire an electric bike and ride to Plaza da España at sunrise before the crowds. Top Tip – If you’re just hopping from place to place for 5 minutes use the Bolt bikes/scooters but if you want to use for the whole day hire with a company directly as it’s much cheaper.
Córdoba
I spent a week in Córdoba mid-summer and fell a little bit in love with the city. In no way as grand or spectacular as neighbouring Seville but that’s what I love about it, it has an understated and calmer magic about it. After my week in an apartment in Córdoba I wrote a travel guide about it.
Get up early and admire the Alcazár de los Reyes Cristianos gardens.
Cadiz
A refreshing break from the interior, the (almost) island of Cadiz manages to squeeze grand architecture, delicious street food and beaches in a shoebox sized city. Plenty of reasons to add this impressive destination to your road trip itinerary. Parking isn’t easy in Cadiz. I recommend leaving your car in Jerez de la Frontera and taking the train in or staying in in El Puerto Santa Maria and catching the ferry.
Cadiz Where to Stay >> I have yet to stay in Cadiz itself and after much research I am yet to be inspired by the accommodation options in the city. However here are a few options to contemplate…
Cadiz Eats + Drinks >> When in Cadiz, eat fried seafood, and there is no better place than Freiduria Marisquería Las Flores. Whatever you do don’t leave without churros con chocolate at cafe bar La Marina.
One of the biggest and more well known Pueblo Blancos in Andalusia, Arcos is a must-visit stop to add to your road trip itinerary. Arcos is a well organised town and despite the jumble of streets you’ll find your way round in no time.
Top Tip: Don’t try and drive to the old town. The streets are extremely narrow. Keep these streets for the locals. There is free street parking just before you reach the old town, although this can get busy. Alternatively you can use the underground parking.
Arcos de la Frontera Where to Stay >> I enjoyed a stay at the oasis of calm that is La Casa Grande. Located in the heart of Arcos with a terrace overlooking the Basílica de Santa María de la Asunción. Each room has unique features. I will 100% stay again!
Arcos de la Frontera Eats + Drinks >>
These two restaurants opposite each other are the best places to eat and drink in the centre of it all. I had the best Salmorejo I’ve ever eaten at Taberna Jóvenes Flamencos and enjoyed last night garlic prawns at neighbouring La Cárcel.
Pull up a stool on this corner bar and count how many cars pass with scratches above the wheel arch from the exact bar stool you’re sitting on.
Arcos de la Frontera Experiences >>
Rise and shine and wander the streets at dawn
Don’t leave without buying convent cookies from the nuns at Comunidad de Mercedarias Descalzas. Enter the convent and ring the bell. You’ll then place your order to a clouded screen and wait for the turnstile to deliver your sweet treats.
Jerez de la Frontera
Just an hour away from Seville, Cadiz and Arcos de la Frontera Jerez is in a fabulous location for exploring. Many people just stop off her for a sherry tour and then move on to the next destination but it is definitely worth a day or two of your time. I really loved the grittier vibe of of Jerez compared to Andalusias’s sparkly crown jewel Seville.
On my short visit I stumbled across (the very popular) Las Banderillas and instantly fell in love with the buzzy atmosphere. Next door is Tabanco San Pablo which was closed when I was there (Monday afternoon) but also looks like a great stop off. At night head to the twinkly Calle Pescadería Vieja for evening drinks and dishes.
Jerez de la Frontera Experiences >>
Sherry tasting is the number one activity in Jerez. I can’t personally recommend a tasting but I’ve heard good things about Gonzalez Byass (Tio Pepe)
Ronda
One of, if not the most popular Pueblo Blanco in Andalusia. Ronda has all the expected downfalls of a tourism heavy town but there is absolutely no denying the views here are spectacularly astonishing. I recommend visiting outside of the summer months to be able to wander without the crowds.
Ronda Where to Stay >>
La Colegiata Small 1 bedroom apartment with the cutest terrace. Great for a couple.
Hotel Montelirio Gorgeous 4 star hotel with the best view in Ronda
Catalonia Ronda 4 star hotel with huge outdoor pool (perfect for summer) with countryside views
For an alternative stay 25 minutes outside of Ronda stay in the sustainable and totally peaceful El Molino del Abuelo in hidden gem Montecorto.
Ronda Experiences >>
Wine tasting at one of the many wineries close by.
Go for a refreshing swim in Cuevo del Gato cave and pool
Zahara de la Sierra
All roads leading to Zahara de la Sierra are nothing short of spectacular. The lake appears out of the muted rural scenery like an azure mirage. The town itself is small but has great parking on the outskirts and is easy to navigate. Zahara is satisfyingly close to several amazing pueblo blancos including Grazalema, El Gastor, and my favourite( and almost unheard of Montecorto). All featured in my travel guide…
I accidentally found Grazalema while driving between Ronda and Zahara de la Sierra back in 2022. I went back the following year to confirm it is still some of the best driving I’ve experienced in all of Europe. The natural park is strikingly beautiful and worth at least a few days of your time.
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park Where to Stay >>
My search took me through many, many large houses for rent which would be great for a large group but If you’re a couple or solo check out Casa Rural la Parra.
Wander the streets and shop for handmade clothes and artisan produce.
If you’re here in the summer, pay only 1Euro to use the jaw dropping municipal swimming pool in the centre of Grazalema. The views will blow your mind.
Enjoy one of several hikes through some of Spain’s best natural scenery.
Wander the colourful streets in search of tapas and cute shops with traditional products like handmade baskets and local honey
El Chorro
A hiker’s dream El Chorro not only looks spectacular but offers breathtaking trails too.
Hike the famous Caminito del Rey or the Pico Huma route aka The Balcony of Andalusia.
Granada
A grittier city compared to Seville but no less impressive. Based at the foot of Sierra Nevada it makes a great base for some mountain adventures. Roam the streets here and welcome to ‘free tapas with every drink’ land. I didn’t spent long enough to recommend stays and eats in Granada but I’ll update after my next trip.
Sierra Nevada
The highest mountain range in mainland Spain, Sierra Nevada takes you to new heights. In the summer months you can hike and mountain bike but in my opinion the best time to travel to these mountains is the snow season.
Sierra Nevada Where to Stay >>
If you’re here for the snow this apartment is in the centre of it all with insane views.
There you have it, a run down of a few must-visit Andalusia gems to add to your road trip itinerary. Definitely don’t stop here though. Don’t forget to read my BEST PUEBLOS BLANCOS GUIDE for some extras to add. And as always, don’t make this an exhaustive list; get out there, scour the map and see what other experiences you can find while on your road trip in Andalusia.
What to eat and drink in Andalusia
Andalusia has some truly tasty cuisine with plenty of regional dishes and treats to try. Here are just a few you should add to your road trip foodie wish list.
Salmorejo A cold tomato soup (thicker than gazpacho) served with egg and ham. Traditionally from Córdoba Jamon Ibérico Iberian ham, need I say more? Berenjenas con Miel Hot, fried eggplant served with honey. Solomillo al Whisky Pork tenderloin in whiskey sauce from Seville.
Cazon en Adobo Fried Cazon fish. One of my go to tapa dishes with wine in Andalusia. Tinto de Verano What the locals drink in summer. Cold red wine (usually Tempranillo) with soda water, sometimes with lemon. Order this instead of sangria! Fino Dry, delicate sherry.
The majority of hotels, shops and restaurants in the bigger cities accept card but some smaller places only accept cash or non-foreign cards. Always carry some cash with you. ATM’s are easy to find all over the town. Unless you already have a Euro currency bank account I highly recommend getting a Wise Card. This will allow you to hold and exchange multiple currencies at the best possible rate. There is no charge for withdrawing or using your card to pay. I’ve been living in Portugal since 2016 and I use Wise as my primary bank card here despite also having a Portuguese bank account. I’ve also used Wise to pay and withdraw money in Spain and Italy.
Top tip: Avoid Multi Currency machines such as ‘Euronet’ (usually set up outside souvenir shops etc) as they charge you 3 or 4 euro to withdraw. Look for ‘Multibanco’ machines to withdraw money. More info here…
I’ve spent more than half my life curating trips for myself around the world, more recently those trips have been deep adventures (mostly by car) in Portugal, Spain and Italy. If you want to plan a memorable trip but don’t know where to start, I can help. Just get in touch and together we’ll make a road trip to remember.
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but there are just too many options, I can help you make the most of your time. If you want a personalised travel itinerary, full to the brim with authentic experiences, I’ve got you…
This interview is part of a Soi 55 series called ‘My Perfect Day in Portugal’ which features local people and businesses in Portugal. Read more about it here.
How do you know Candy/ How did we meet?
I met Candy during the Pandemic, 2020. She mailed me to ask me if she could collaborate with us and discover some of our Wine Experiences. She actually came to our Country Lodging already 3 times in order to discover our region, culture, food and wine. Candy is a free spirit and a very good person. She is already part of our Burrico D´Orada
Where are you from and where do you live now?
I was born in Lisbon on September 20th 1975. I moved from Sintra county (where I was living since 1998) to Baixo-Alentejo Inland (Serpa county) on August 3rd 2020.
What do you love most about where you live?
Life quality, silence, nature, safety, living cost, growing my own food, sustainable way of living and of course our region’s wines!
Can you tell us more about your business?
I own a sustainable Country Lodging & Experiences and live at the same plot that belonged to my grandparents. We have 2 Wood Eco-Lodges of 55m2 (2 Bedroom equipped houses with Kitchen, small living-room and a front porch) and a bigger House of 120m2 . Also a 2 bedroom equipped House with 2 Large Bedrooms, 2 Bathrooms, 1 Living Room with a wood-stove, 1 Dining-Area & Kitchen and outside area for leisure and meals.
We also provide Wine Private Tours (1 up to 3 Days) with Pick-Up in Évora & Beja Areas and for our Guests at our Country-Lodging. We speak English, French & German besides Portuguese.
What is your favourite region in Portugal and why?
I do not have a favourite region, but I can tell that I love the inland part of Portugal from North to South – it’s a part of our territory still preserved, with authenticity, slow living and much to offer in terms of landscape, history, food and wine. Far beyond the tourism masses in the big-capitals such as Porto, Lisboa and the Algarve (Albufeira, etc).
A Portuguese phrase you think would be useful for anyone visiting Portugal?
Not particularly, but I think it would be important to learn a few basic words before coming (“Vinho” Wine; “Café” Expresso; “Água” Water; “Obrigada(o)” Thank you; “Por Favor” Please; “Olá” Hello; “Bom dia” Good morning, etc)
If you could only eat one Portuguese dish for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Cod – as it can be prepared in many different ways!!!
If you could only drink one Portuguese wine for the rest of your life what would it be?
Please don´t ask me this question 😉 …. I am a wine lover and I do not have a favourite type of wine, that depends on my mood and with whom I am!!! But, I love the Wines from the Dão and Beira-Interior regions and the Sparkling Wines from Bairrada. I am now discovering amazing Rosé Wines in Alentejo 😉
And finally… describe your perfect day in Portugal.
A perfect day in Portugal…I would suggest a 1 Day Tour with myselfin my region – visiting local small wine-Producers (there are many!!!), going for a dive in Alqueva River Beach or for a Boating Trip at Sunset in Alqueva Great Lake, Visiting several small historic white-washed villages (Serpa, Moura, Vila de Frades, Vila Alva, Portel), tasting Local food, excellent extra-virgin olive oils, DOP Cheeses & Black-Pork Ham / Sausages (yum!!!) and finishing the day with a music of Cante Alentejano and toasting with a Sparkling-Wine from a local producer or even having dinner with us at Monte, enjoying slow food, the stars outside, the crickets singing and life amongst friendly people. Life is, NOW.
The best restaurants and bars in Cascais, Portugal
Cascais, my home since 2020 and a beautiful location to eat and drink in Portugal so I wanted to share what I think are the best restaurants and bars in Cascais. Most people take a day trip from Lisbon, visiting the beaches and bougainvillaea but soon realise Cascais is the perfect place to spend a few days. Go get lost in the maze of calçada paved streets and you’ll discover a foodie heaven!
I know I’m biassed but Cascais really is a fantastic foodie destination. The town has such a huge variety of restaurants in a small area that it is impossible to get bored. These are my favourite areas to grab a bite and take a sip. There are always new spots popping up so I update this guide regularly.
Bairro Amarelo
First I want to mention Bairro Amarelo which is Cascais’ (better ) version of Lisbon’s Pink Street. Bairro Amarelo (yellow district) is a car-free, restaurant-packed area and in my opinion the best area to eat out in Cascais. There is always a really buzzy atmosphere and the perfect outdoor dining environment. Many of the restaurants I have mentioned below are here. If you’re planning on dining during the weekend or summer then it’s advisable to book many of the restaurants ahead of time as they do get booked up.
Casa da Guia
Just a short 20 minute walk next to the ocean will take you to the residential area of Guia where you’ll also find Casa da Guia. This collection of shops and restaurants is a wonderful place to spend the afternoon. The location is really unique because you are right on the cliffs, as you can imagine the views are amazing!
The Paredão
This 3km beach walk runs right from central Cascais all the way to Praia do Poça and reveals all types of wonders along the way. Prices can be a little higher than average for the type of food but I’ve had many great meals out here and the vibe and view is definitely worth it. I can be found in one of a number of these bars and restaurants most weekends enjoying a cold beer in the sun!
Mercado da Vila
One of the best produce markets I’ve visited in Portugal (I’ve been to a lot). Every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday the mercado transforms into a fantastic farmers market with fruits, veggies, cheese, bread, flowers and more. In addition to the market Mercado da vila hosts a number of fab restaurants including two excellent petisco (Portuguese tapas) and marisco (seafood) restaurants. There are also several cafes where you can pick up freshly baked goods and coffee.
One of my absolute favourite restaurants in Cascais. Modern Portuguese food made from fresh and quality ingredients. The restaurant has two levels and some outdoor seating. You can expect great dishes, great cocktails and good vibes. It’s located right next to the avenida with views across the bay. Popular with both locals and tourists. Book in advance for lunch/dinner.
My long-time favourite and most-visited restaurant is the authentic Mexican Malacopa. Located in the heart of Bairro Amarelo and is also popular with locals and tourists alike. Expect tasty tacos, a fun vibe and the best tasting margaritas in Cascais. Book in advance for dinner/ weekends.
My favourite snack bar and hang out spot for a cheap and cold beer and some salgados (salty snacks). Located in a small square next to the church. It basks in sunshine from lunchtime to early evening in the summer. It’s also a good spot for an early morning local breakfast.
One of 3 restaurants run by chef José Avillez. Contemporary Portuguese cuisine that you won’t forget in a hurry. Mouthwatering dishes made with high quality ingredients and a lot of thought. A little bit splurge-y but not OTT.
Newly opened in 2023 Souldough is a welcome addition to Cascais. Tucked around the corner from Bairro Amarelo this little pizza haven is the perfect setup for aperitivos with friends followed by delicious stonebaked pizza.
Hidden in the historic centre Rebu has a surprising offering – raclette! In addition to that cheesy goodness they also do flavour-heavy, thin-based pizzas to eat in or take away.
While we are on the pizza train, this is the best pizza restaurant in Cascais (according to me, who takes pizza tasting very seriously). Traditionally made with tasty ingredients and super friendly staff. Eat in or better still take-away and eat on the beach with a couple of cold Peronis (or Sagres if you’re staying loyal to Portugal).
Cascais is not short on sushi restaurants and many of them are very good, but of all the ones I’ve tried MOA makes me the happiest. All the classics available plus some unique pieces to taste. Not central. Available on UberEats.
A splurge-worth sushi restaurant in the historical centre. Pretty patio with twinkly lights. Perfect for a romantic meal. Also available in Cais do Sodré in Lisbon.
If you fancy some asian classics like pad thai or ramen this is your place. Great value. Located in Bairro Amarelo and also available on UberEats in case you’re having a night in the apartment.
Sun kissed beachside restaurant on the paredão 20 mins walk or 2 train stops (Estoril) from Cascais. Lots of seafood dishes and breezy seating. I chose Azimut for birthday prawns and I was not disappointed.
This is the only restaurant on this list that I haven’t visited yet but the hype is real. Tiny but mesmerising. Eat beautifully prepared dishes face to face with the chefs that made them. Looking forward to updating you on this one soon!
The most quirky food and drink experience in Cascais? I think so! Lusophonica is a small cafe located at the bottom of Santa Marta lighthouse, next to the most famous view in town. But it isn’t just the location and excellent specialty coffee that makes it stand out; it’s the tiny radio station it hosts too. Grab a coffee (or beer), pull up a chair under the palms, and enjoy the seemingly always perfect playlist. I really can’t recommend this spot enough, I’m genuinely here most weekends.
Arguably the best specialty coffee and bakery in Cascais. A little out of town but worth it if you’re a coffee snob and want a break from the usual espresso at the typical cafes. In my opinion the breakfast menu isn’t anything particularly special but it does have all the classic egg dishes. However, the bread, cakes and cookies are epic – don’t leave without picking up a loaf!
The newest specialty coffee shop in the heart of the historical centre. It only opened in 2023 but has quickly turned into my favourite place to grab a coffee in Cascais. These guys know their beans! Fantastic brunch menu also available.
A chain of specialty coffee shops that can also be found in Lisbon and Porto. Great coffee and friendly staff. Right in the centre and close to the beach.
Cool brunch place in the marina. Not speciality coffee but they have plenty of tasty breakfast and brunch options, and a few cocktails too! Small and busy on the weekends.
“The Best Ice cream in the world”. Maybe not the world but it is very very good. Lots of flavours made from natural ingredients. There is always a queue which is a sign of how good it really is!
I love the buzz of this place and I have spent many afternoons hanging out in the sunshine here. Located right on Praia do Conceição. There are only a few tables outside but just find an empty spot on the wall and the staff will come and take your order. All the usual suspects drink wise. They also do some great entradas and dishes to enjoy outside or in the restaurant itself. Emma sometimes has live music on the weekend too!
Another beachside bar just a short walk from Emma is this chilled out spot. It’s a Spanish run bar so you can enjoy your drink with a few tapas dishes too!
Probably better known for the healthy and vegan food they offer but for me this place is all about enjoying a glass of wine on the pretty patio or roof top.
Into wine? The tasting room has one of the biggest wine lists in Cascais. They also offer some delicious petiscos. My pick is usually the peixinhos da horta and a glass of antão vaz.
Estoril (two stops on the train from Cascais or 20 minute walk).Open all day but this place is definitely more of a late night hang out. Attracts a younger crowd of locals and foreigners on the weekends. It’s the closest you’ll get to a club in Cascais. It’s right on the beach so great for afternoon cocktails.
Despite living here I’m finding new places to eat and drink popping up all the time. I’ll keep adding as I go so don’t forget to sign up to the mailing list so you don’t miss them.
My favourite beach bar in Carcavelos for a drink and sunset. Busy, great music and plenty of drink options. Right on the sand.
There you have it. Almost 3 years of eating and drinking whittled down to a single blog post! The truth is there are tons of amazing restaurants and bars in Cascais and the surrounding area so go set your own foodie trail and tell me what you find so I can add it to my never ending list! Bom appetit!
I moved to Cascais from Lagos in 2020 and have been living in the historical centre ever since. Now that I feel comfortable to call this corner of Portugal home I’m ready to share my Cascais Travel Guide with you.
This is written from my perspective as an expat /immigrant. I live and work from here permanently. I’m not a tourist or digital nomad, rather someone who has spent the last 3 years getting to know Cascais and what it has to offer. While I will never be a native Portuguese (much to my disappointment!) I’m very proud and honoured to call the country, and Cascais home.
Here I’ll share my insider knowledge of Cascais, rather than simply regurgitating information you can find anywhere online. In addition to the knowledge I’ve gained from living here I spend many hours researching and writing my guides so that they are truly one of a kind. I do this because there are very few reliable and meaningful travel guides for Portugal.
I’m not against anything that is popular. Top attractions are top for a reason. I’ve enjoyed many amazing and popular tourist attractions in Portugal, however the best experiences I’ve had have been when I’ve wandered a few streets back. Although I’ll aim to mention the most popular tourist spots in all my guides, they will never be the main focus, simply because the information is already out there for you to find.
My main priority for this travel guide is to share the real experiences that I think offer a good glimpse of Cascais. I aim to be an honest source of information for travel in Portugal and I hope you find this guide helpful in planning your trip to Cascais.
So without further ado….
Why Visit Cascais?
If its nickname ‘Charm of the Atlantic’ doesn’t make you at least a bit curious then let me share some of the reasons you should visit Cascais.
Cascais’ historical centre is the definition of charming. Imagine tiny streets of calçada lined with pastel hued houses decorated in bougainvillaea. Just utterly dreamy. If you did nothing else but wander these streets you would be glad you made the visit.
Beach please! Cascais is home to a string of stunning and captivating beaches from the local hang out of praia da Poça to the tiny but picturesque Praia da Rainha, right up to the windswept and mountain-backed Praia do Guincho. Cascais is a beach hopping paradise satisfyingly close to Lisbon.
Fresh air and outdoor activities. Cascais is no doubt a great place to relax but this seaside town is also one of the best places for an active holiday in Portugal. There is an abundance of activities to take part in such as cycling, surfing, sailing and SUP. If you’re a keen runner or cyclist there is a great 10km cycle path that runs from the Cascais centre to Guincho that follows the coast the whole way. And let’s not forget hiking! Malveira da Serra is only 20 minutes away and has some great trails to enjoy.
Foodie heaven. Cascais is home to a surprising amount of amazing bars and restaurants with all types of cuisine. Whatever you fancy, there’s a good chance Cascais has it. I’ve written a specific guide for this so hop on over if you are in need of some food inspiration.
I am the biggest advocate for driving in Portugal but for once I’m going to say cars aren’t the best mode of transport in this area. The best way to get to and around Cascais is not with a car. Unless you are planning on driving to Guincho or further up the coast then you don’t really need a car in Cascais. The easiest way to get to Cascais is by train from Lisbon.
Driving to Cascais
If you do drive to Cascais I recommend arriving before 10am in the morning to secure a spot and avoid the worst of the traffic. Traffic in and out of Lisbon during rush hour morning and evening can be very busy so try to avoid it where possible.
Parking in Cascais
I don’t usually talk about parking but I wanted to mention that finding parking in Cascais can be difficult during the busy periods, and free parking is like gold dust. My advice would be, if you don’t absolutely need a car, don’t bring one. There are several main car parks but Marchael Carmona is the best in terms of space, ease and location. Alternatively, if you don’t mind a 20/25 minute walk there is lots of free street parking next to Eurostars hotel in Guia. Some of the main hotels have car parking but most guest houses and Airbnb’s do not.
Taking the train to Cascais
If you are visiting from Lisbon then you can use the Linha de Cascais train that departs from Cais do Sodre every 20 minutes; it takes around 35 minutes.Trains run daily between 6am to 1am. There is a great app you can download at www.cp.pt which shows you all the scheduled trains. You cannot book tickets in advance for this journey. To get your ticket visit one of the machines in the train or metro station and buy a Viva card for €0.50 then top that up with a return journey to Cascais which is around €4.40.
Getting around Cascais
The best way to get around Cascais is by walking. It’s a relatively small town with very few inclines (in comparison to Lisbon!). Cascais is home to the same slippery calçada though so bear that in mind. Uber and Bolt are available and very cheap which you might want to consider for a trip to Praia do Guincho, Cabo da Roca or Malveria da Serra.
If you are visiting Cascais as part of a larger trip then you can hire a car to get around. This way you’ll be able to stop off at some harder to reach places. I always recommend Zest because I have used them many times for my road trip around Portugal without any problem. My tip would be to pick up from Lisbon airport rather than central Lisbon.
If you’re thinking of combining Cascais with a trip to Sintra, note that driving to and around Sintra in the peak season is very busy and parking is a faff. Avoid if possible
You can get a bus to Sintra from Cascais here, or there is a very easy and cheap train from Oriente station in Lisbon. If you’re visiting outside of the busiest season the driving is not so bad, but bear in mind that the car parks are outside the centre of Sintra and a long way from Pena Palace. Alternatively think about using a tour guide for the day. Tour guides can get booked up months in advance so once you’ve done your research and found the perfect match get booking!
Cascais and Sintra in one day?
Unpopular opinion but I don’t think it’s the best idea to visit Cascais and Sintra in one day. You can technically do it but you won’t have time to enjoy the sights properly. Sintra specifically has a lot to explore that takes a lot of pre-planning. If you have the time, my advice would be to spend at least 1 full day in each. You could spend an afternoon in Cascais and see a lot but half a day is not really enough for Sintra. If you absolutely must do both in one day then work with a travel guide/driver to do it. I can personally recommend Portuguese for a Day tours.
Where to stay in Cascais
Firstly I want to start by saying do try and actually stay in Cascais rather than just doing a day trip. While I totally agree Cascais is a great (and easy) day trip from Lisbon, there is something special about staying overnight here. Especially if you have been staying in the buzz of the city the rest of the time. Spend a night, get up early for sunrise and have the beach to yourself. Take actual time to see Cascais and not just rush around to tick the box and you’ll appreciate it much more.
This is one of the few travel guides I’ve written where I can’t share recommendations for accommodation based on personal stay experience. I usually always share places I’ve actually stayed the night but since I live here, I haven’t had the opportunity to do that yet. However I do know where the best stays are located. Here is my Cascais wish list based on location, facilities and character.
Hotels/Resorts in Cascais
The Oitavos Surrounded by nature. Located close to Guia a very short drive from Cascais centre. Features large outdoor pool and terrace with bar. It also has a great spa with massage and afternoon tea available. (I can personally recommend the spa afternoon tea package).
5* Pousada hotel with an “art district”. Right in the historical centre, next to the marina. Features include outdoor pool surrounded by tropical gardens, a gym and a spa.
Family guesthouse in central Cascais with a focus on sustainability. Surfy beach vibe and has an excellent stone-baked pizza restaurant on site (featured in the Cascais Eats + Drinks Guide).
Cascais can be a place to wander and relax or a place to get outdoors and active and anything in between. Whether you are here for beach time, a family holiday or a romantic getaway Cascais has plenty to keep you busy.
Wander the Historical Centre
Definitely set aside some time to wander. Cascais is one of the most beautiful destinations to get lost in. Keep walking until you get thirsty or hungry. Stop off for a bite to eat or a coffee. Repeat.
Pick up picnic supplies at Mercado da Vila
One of the best produce markets I’ve visited in Portugal (and I’ve visited a lot). The market is very well organised and a fantastic place to pick up fresh ingredients for a picnic in the park or dinner at home. There is also a butchers, large fish market and a few highly rated restaurants.
Get Windswept at Praia do Guincho
One of the most unique beaches I’ve visited in Portugal. Compared to Cascais bay, Praia do Guincho is wild. It has a remote feeling to it and outstanding beauty surrounding it. This is a great spot to surf too. Beware, it can get very windy in the summer!
Fall in Love with The Santa Marta Viewpoint
Ok so if you’ve already done some Cascais research you’ve probably seen this view. It has got to be Cascais’ most scenic spot. As you can see it’s gorgeous, and even better in real life. At mid tide on a calm day the water is at its most alluring. I am always surprised that it doesn’t get busier than it is. Did you know you can climb Santa Marta lighthouse? The lighthouse has a very small museum too. It’s free on the first Sunday of each month (like most museums in Cascais).
Find a Peacock in Marchael Carmona
If you have kids (and even if you don’t) Marchael Carmona is a large park with a cafe, library and a whole range of birds including chickens, geese and a few peacocks. There are lots of shady spots and it makes a great location for a summer picnic. Many locals hold kid’s birthday parties here and it’s the perfect place to bring your little ones.
Take away Pizza on the beach at sunset
Pick up a pizza from the exceptional authentic Sicilian pizzeria (Il Siciliano) and devour it on the concrete steps leading down to Praia da Duquesa. Find sunset times here.
Go Paddle boarding in the Bay
For the majority of the year Cascais bay is calm, making it the perfect place to try out some paddle boarding. You can rent right from the beach at SUP com Alma. Enjoy a few hours cruising around above (or falling in) the big blue. In the summer months you will also find a giant inflatable assault course which is great for kids with too much energy!
Hire an eBike and Cycle the N247 to Casa da Guia
As I already mentioned Cascais has a brilliant cycle path that runs all the way to Praia do Guincho. Pick up a bike from one of several locations in town (including next to the train station, next to hotel Baía and next to Santa Marta Lighthouse) and pay via app. Set off to Casa da Guia where you’ll find a collection cafes, restaurants and shops perched on the edge of the cliffs. Come for lunch and enjoy a chilled afternoon in a unique location. Don’t forget to stop off at Boca do Inferno on your journey. Still got some energy left after lunch? The cycle path runs all the way to Praia do Guincho!
Take a peek at the Paulo Rego Museum
Take a wander around the fascinating Paula Rego museum. Rego, who was born in Portugal displays both parmanent and temporary exhibitions.
Summer Sangria (or an ice cream!) at Cresmina
If you’re in Cascais in the summer and want to avoid the crowds of the bay head out west towards guincho but stop off at Praia da Cresmina. This sandy beach is a lovely place to spend an afternoon, made even better by the beach bar which serves up giant cups of sweet, refreshing sangria. Bring cash!
Where to Eat and Drink in Cascais
There are so many fantastic dining experiences in Cascais it deserves it’s own guide, so I wrote one…
Bairro Amarelo (yellow district) is a car-free, restaurant-packed area and in my opinion the best area to eat out in Cascais. There is always a really buzzy atmosphere and the perfect outdoor dining environment. A few great restaurants here include Malacopa, Taberna Clandestina and Souldough.
the paredão
This 3km beach walk runs right from central Cascais all the way to Praia do Poça. If you’re planning on spending some time on the sand, save these places to your wish list… Emma, Azimut, The Beach Club.
When I first moved here back in 2020 the excellent Lusophonica was the only place you could find speciality coffee in Cascais. Now you can also grab amazing coffee and brunch at Milkees, Euphoria and Fábrica.
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but there are just too many options, I can help you make the most of your time. If you want a personalised travel itinerary, full to the brim with authentic experiences, I’ve got you…
This pretty village tumbles down the cliff to a great beach and sea pool. Book a table outside at Agua e Sal to enjoy some super fresh and tasty fish. You won’t regret it.
Malveria da Serra
Hit one of the many hiking trails in Malveira and take in the views of Praia do Guincho. This 12km route starts at the village and takes you on a lovely loop.
Sintra
Magical Sintra is very close to Cascais and a brilliant day trip to bolt on to your time in Cascais. Remember, if you want to do the main attractions in Sintra allow for plenty of time. You need at least a full day.
Cabo Da Roca and the west coast
Mainland Europe’s most westerly point and the starting point to a string of cliff backed beaches worth a stop at. My pick is always Praia do Magoito.
There we have it, my travel guide for Cascais Portugal! Don’t forget to make time to get lost, explore the streets and find some experiences to call your own. I hope you enjoy this corner of Portugal as much as I do.
The majority of hotels, shops and restaurants in the bigger cities accept card but some smaller places only accept cash or non-foreign cards. Always carry some cash with you. ATM’s are easy to find all over the town. Unless you already have a Euro currency bank account I highly recommend getting a Wise Card. This will allow you to hold and exchange multiple currencies at the best possible rate. There is no charge for withdrawing or using your card to pay. I’ve been living in Portugal since 2016 and I use Wise as my primary bank card here despite also having a Portuguese bank account. I’ve also used Wise to pay and withdraw money in Spain and Italy.
Top tip: Avoid Multi Currency machines such as ‘Euronet’ (usually set up outside souvenir shops etc) as they charge you 3 or 4 euro to withdraw. Look for ‘Multibanco’ machines to withdraw money. More info here…
This interview is part of a Soi 55 series called ‘My Perfect Day in Portugal’ which features local people and businesses in Portugal. Read more about it here.
How do you know Candy/ How did we meet?
We haven’t met personally (yet), but somehow you found me on IG during the Pandemic, right?
Where are you from and where do you live now?
I’m from Belo Horizonte – Brazil, I live in Lisbon since 2014 and do consider it home.
What do you love most about where you live?
I love the sense of peace and security in whichever time of the day. Something I didn’t have when I lived in Rio de Janeiro, where I lived most part of my life.
Can you tell us more about your business?
I am the Head Sommelier at Feitoria, 1 Michelin star in Belém Lisbon.
Through the pandemic in 2020 my wife and I began to desenvolve our channel through Instagram @pedrones_somm, and talk about wine in a more approachable way.
This year I became a Wine Educator for the WSET (Wine & Spirits Education Trust) in Lisbon. I’ve found it to be really gratifying. My students have been doing great and I find amusing when I get referred to as “Professor”.
What is your favourite region in Portugal and why?
Douro Valley. I find it one of the most beautiful places in the whole world. No matter how many times I go there, it always takes my breath away.
Portugal’s best kept secret is _________{fill in the blank}.
Oysters! They’re such great quality… and you have 3 different regions: Tavira (Algarve), Setúbal, Ria de Aveiro.
If you could only eat one Portuguese dish for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Plumas / Secretos de Porco Preto
If you could only drink one Portuguese wine for the rest of your life what would it be?
Carrocel by Alvaro Castro – Dão Valley, best Touriga Nacional ever.
Team Sagres or Superbock?
SUPERBOCK of course!
And finally…describe your perfect day in Portugal…
There is a really small bakery close to my house that’s been around since the 1920s and from time to time I love getting their fresh bread and pastries during my morning walks with my dog Jesse.
For lunch I would go to Marisqueira do Lis, get some amêijoas à bulhão pato and main course Camarão Tigre (Tiger Prawn) that are just insanely tasty. Wash that down with a nice Alvarinho.
I’d then up to Graça , find a cool ice team parlor to freshen things up and see my favorite view point of the City – Nossa Senhora do Monte. Get a fresh beer nearby, either a Super Bock or a Craft Beer at 8ª Colina.
After that I would go for some good wines at Vino Vero, they have great snacks to pair the delish wines they got. Portuguese & international – Organics, Bio, Natural, you name it.
If I’d feel like having a good dinner, I would walk to SEM – an all ‘Zero Waste’ concept restaurant with fresh farm to table products.
I think I’d call that an almost to perfect day. There’s plenty to do in the city!
This interview is part of a Soi 55 series called ‘My Perfect Day in Portugal’ which features local people and businesses in Portugal. Read more about it here.
I met António through Instagram in 2020 and we’ve been online friends ever since. When I need help with Português pronunciation he is my go-to guy! Sadly we have only managed to meet in real life once, I actually moved to Lisbon about the same time he moved to Algarve so we crossed path. When we did meet he took me to his favourite mousse de chocolate place, and no mousse de chocolate has ever been the same since!
AntónioFerragudo, Algarve
How do you know Candy/ How did we meet?
Through Online Platforms (not Tinder!!!). Just some random Instagram interaction sharing places we’ve visited and liked. Lots of food and places were shared during these 2 years. Unfortunately, I only met Candy live once .
Where are you from and where do you live now?
Originally a Margem Sul Guy (Lisbon south side), I moved to Ferragudo, Algarve, approximately one year ago and i’m loving it.
What do you love most about where you live?
How easy you can get from a traditional village to a calm beach just by walking. Also, having the right amount of people living here .
The hidden beaches of Ferragudo….
Can you tell us more about your business?
I work as a country Product Manager for one big IT company for retail products. Can’t say the company but it ends with “enovo”.
What is your favourite region in Portugal and why?
Very hard since Portugal is special and different from north to south and also including the islands. I would have to say though that I found the most peace in Alentejo and small hidden Algarve villages (Ferragudo,Carvoeiro, Praia Verde).
Portugal’s best kept secret is how quick and heartwarming you can have a very tasteful meal on Wine, bread, cheese and traditional sausages.
A Portuguese phrase you think would be helpful for anyone visiting Portugal?
A esperança é a ultima a morrer (hope is the last one to die). Very meaningful as it resembles our battling aura, challenging the odds when shorthanded and passing obstacles based on belief and soul power.
If you could only eat one Portuguese dish for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Feijoada de Choco or Polvo à lagareiro
If you could only drink one Portuguese wine for the rest of your life what would it be?
Planalto on the whites, Herdade dos Coteis on the Reds, Mateus on the Rosé 🙂
Team Sagres or Superbock?
Team glass full
And finally…describe your perfect day in Portugal…
Start the day doing stand up paddle in Rio Arade and visiting one of the nearby beaches (Caneiros as example). You can even rent them at Waterflow, a Ferragudo based company.
Having lunch in Petiscos Capela (you can try 3 or 4 traditional dishes at an average price of 5€ per dish). Then, go to Serra de Monchique and appreciate the view, go jumping on some waterfalls, go hiking on the shore or simply enjoy a nap under a tree.
In the afternoon, go to one sunset party in Club Nau where you can also enjoy a good meal and drink their wonderful Passion Fruit Mojitos. A good selection of wine and matured meat is also available with a live band playing in the back and a magnificent sunset displaying in front of you. As an alternative, barbecue with friends on a terrace with a sunset view is also an option.
At night, you can enjoy long walks through the village or try Caniço, a hidden gem in Portimao where you can access a private beach bar through an elevator craved inside the rocks. Its incredible and the atmosphere is really private. No Solo Agua is also famous for their parties if you want to go nuts (with class).
On a personal note, I would like to say I really liked meeting Candy. We’ve been speaking since July 2020 (forgot it was so long ago) and sharing not only restaurants, foods (lots of octopus and Carne de porco a Alentejana), places Portuguese sayings, but also intimate meaningful things with each other. I consider Candy a trustworthy friend, with excellent taste and a warrior for everything she has been through.
Thank you for this opportunity to share my experience and who knows, motivate other people to come and enjoy this place.
This made me smile a lot! Mutio obrigada pela ajuda António!
So, you have decided to venture away from mainland Portugal and visit some of the islands? YES, GO YOU!!! You won’t regret it, I promise. I’m ashamed to say it took me almost 7 years of living in Portugal to finally visit São Miguel but it was more than worth the wait. I drove every inch of the island, ate an abundance of limpets, took photos of all the cows and swam under gushing waterfalls. I dedicated a whole week to non-stop travel in São Miguel so that I could write the best ever travel guide for the island.
If you’re new here, you might not know that my travel guides are different from the rest you can find online. They are written in-depth from personal experience and don’t just focus on the same old tourist spots we all already know about. I had so much fun exploring São Miguel and I hope this guide can encourage you to get off the beaten path and soak up all the experiences the island has to offer! Vamos lá!
There are many reasons to visit São Miguel that I could reel off, but in my opinion the best reason to visit the island is the diversity of landscape coupled with it’s great tourist infrastructure. The Azores are a great trip to bolt on to your mainland Portugal itinerary but also worth a standalone trip. Most people traveling to Portugal usually travel to the usual suspects Lisbon, Porto and Algarve but if you have the time (2-3 weeks in Portugal) then it’s worth spending 4 or 5 days in the Azores or Madeira. Once in The Azores It may be tempting to try and visit as many islands as possible but my advice would be to pick one or 2 islands at most. If you only have 4 or 5 days, choose São Miguel to spend that time.
WHERE IS SÃO MIGUEL?
São Miguel is one of 9 islands in The Azores archipelago; located 1,400km from The coast of Portugal and 2,500km from the east coast of the US/Canada. These little islands are tiny gems in the vast Atlantic. São Miguel is the largest island in the archipelago. Zoom out using the map below to see all 9 islands.
At least 4 or 5 days. I spent 7 days there and managed to see and do everything I wanted in that amount of time. If you want a more laid back holiday you could easily spend 10 days or 2 weeks and island hop.
WHAT ABOUT THE OTHER AZORES ISLANDS?
This guide is specifically written for São Miguel because it is the only island I have visited. The reason I chose to spend all my time on São Miguel during this trip is because I wanted to experience it fully and not spend all my time rushing from one island to the next. After a week deep exploring the island I feel ready to share all the best experiences with you. I plan on visiting the other islands in the coming year; next on my list is Pico!
São Miguel’s main airport is Ponta Delgada, reachable in just 2.5 hours from Lisbon. At the moment the only way to travel between São Miguel and the other islands is via plane. Carriers include Azores Airlines, TAP and RyanAir. It is possible to travel by ferry between some of the smaller islands during the summer season, when the weather permits it.
HOW TO GET AROUND SÃO MIGUEL?
If you want to make the most of São Miguel you need a car, no question about it. Without a rental car you will not be able to experience the island properly. As always I recommend Zest which is the broker I used for this trip and every trip thanks to their great insurance and lovely customer service team. Driving was the best part of my trip and I loved the freedom having my own car gave me.
First time hiring a car in Portugal? It’s not as scary as you think!
For transparency and an honest account of when things go wrong… I scratched the paintwork of my hire car during this trip, but thanks to the full insurance Zest provided there is no excess and I’ve been fully refunded. This is the benefit of working with a broker that offers fully comp insurance.
No car? Your options will be limited but of course you will still be able to do what you want with time and money. There is a good airport transfer service. You can buy tickets in the main terminal next to luggage storage. There is public transport between major towns but getting to tourist sites can be more difficult. Consider booking a tour or private driver. Both these exist on the island but since I have no experience using either I can’t recommend any in particular.
HOW TO CREATE THE PERFECT SÃO MIGUEL ITINERARY
The weather in São Miguel is really unpredictable so you need to have a flexible itinerary. This is an island where a fully planned itinerary just won’t work. You can still have a list of activities/ sights but there is little point planning them for set days during your trip. Allow for flexibility in your itinerary so you can switch days if needed. The good thing is that the island is relatively small and easy to drive around so you can plan each day as you go easy enough. Getting up and deciding what to do each day is part of the fun and you’ll experience more this way. For those of you who feel uncomfortable without any sort of itinerary I suggest creating “good weather” day plans and “bad weather” day plans that you can pick and choose as you go. For example on clear days you’re going to want to be up at the view points for the crater lakes but when the weathers not so clear the waterfalls and thermal pools are great fun!
MY SÃO MIGUEL ITINERARY (and why you can’t follow it)
So here’s the truth. I didn’t have a set itinerary. I did hours and hours of research (as always) so I knew what I wanted to see and had a rough idea of how I wanted to do things but other than that I made it up as I went along.
Once you get to The Azores you’ll realise the weather is constantly changing and since the majority of activities are outdoors you won’t be able to follow a strict itinerary.
So how did I do it? Before I left I made a list of places I wanted to visit and pinned them on GoogleMaps. I woke up each day and made a plan based on the weather and my feelings. Driving was one of the main attractions for me and I enjoyed planning my route each morning but also leaving time to go off the beaten path if I saw something cool (which happens alot on São Miguel!)
The good thing is that São Miguel is very easy to navigate and it’s not big. You can drive from one side of the island to the other west to east in less than 2 hours.
Here is how my itinerary panned out. You can use this as an idea of how much you can fit in a day but not much else sorry! This also isn’t everything i did each day as I went off course to various miradouros etc frequently.
Day 1 : Termas da Ferraria, Mosteiros, Várzea. Where I stayed.
Day 2 : Lagoa das Sete Cidades, Lagoa do Fogo, Caloura. Where I stayed.
Day 3 : Vila Franca do Campo, Furnas, Nordeste including remote beaches. Where I stayed.
Day 4 : Ribeira dos Caldeirões, Tea plantation, Porto Formoso, Maia. Where I stayed.
Day 5 : Maia, Cascata Salto do Cabrito, Fenais da Luz, Ribeira Grande . Where I stayed.
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but there are just too many options, I can help you make the most of your time. If you want a personalised travel itinerary, full to the brim with authentic experiences, I’ve got you…
The island is not massive by any stretch of imagination so you could easily stay in one place for the duration of your trip and head out to a different location each day.
However, I wanted to experience different parts of the island so I stayed in a total of 5 locations. I stuck to the coast the whole time but if I had an extra night or two next time I would stay somewhere interior too.
São Miguel has options to suit all budgets; everything from fancy resorts, guest houses, hotels, apartments and backpackers. I even found a boat!
As usual I used BookingCom to find most of my accommodation. It has the biggest selection and best value properties. Most have free cancellation up until a week before your stay which gives you good flexibility. One thing worth noting – accommodation does get full up. I booked last minute and missed out on a lot of places I would have liked to stay. If you want my advice don’t leave it to the last minute to book your accommodation.
BEST TOWNS TO VISIT IN SÃO MIGUEL
I drove the entire ring road following the coast road where possible and also cut across the island in several places. There are so many special towns to visit but I couldn’t mention all of them so here are just a few you might want to add to your list…
PONTA DELGADA
In my opinion if you don’t have much time don’t worry too much about Ponta Delgada (except for a meal at A Tasca!). There isn’t much to see and it’s really nothing special. If you are here for more than 3 or 4 days then aim to spend an afternoon here otherwise I would dedicate your time to the natural beauty around the island.
Again I wouldn’t stay in Ponta Delgada either. There are so many great stay options around the island. If you still want to stay in a bigger town rather than a village then look at Ribeira Grande instead which has more character.
CALOURA
This was my favourite location overall in São Miguel. Although Caloura is no secret it still has an underrated vibe that I really loved. It’s a tiny coastal town with a very good restaurant and a sea pool. It reminds me a lot of Southern Puglia in Italy.
I can personally recommend the ANC resort which offers spacious rooms with sea views. Very close to Caloura and the famous seafood restaurant.
MOSTERIOS / VÁRZEA
Way out west is Mosterios and your best bet at catching a stunning sunset on the island. There are a few laid back bars with a great atmosphere, especially at sunset. There are also some gorgeous sea pools here but you’ll need calm seas and low tide to enjoy them safely.
I spent my first night in Várzea and it was the perfect introduction to the island. Villa Várzea is located only a 10 minute drive from Lagoas das Sete Cidades so it is one of the best locations if the crater lakes are number 1 on your wishlist. It’s also close to Mosteiros and has a beautiful garden and surroundings. I stayed in the Charming Suite and the bed was beyond dreamy. I loved the spacious room and bathtub too! It was one of my favourite places I stayed in São Miguel but next time I would stay at least 2 nights to make the most of it.
NORDESTE
Another favourite for me was Nordeste, not the town itself, but the surrounding area and beaches. Miradouro Vista dos Barcos is a beautiful sunrise spot. There are a few real remote beaches here too. I’m not going to spoil the surprise, but if you look hard enough on GoogleMaps you’ll find them.
I stayed in a guesthouse which was clean, comfortable and in a central location but to be honest I wouldn’t stay again because there are better value options such as
I only found this place because of >> this sea view apartment I stayed << otherwise I’m not sure I would have thought to visit. It turned out to be one of the best decisions I made and it was here I stumbled across a true hidden gem on the coastal path. It also has some typical restaurants that are well worth a meal or two.
RIBEIRA GRANDE
São Miguel’s second largest town sits on the north coast and is a haven for surfers. As the surf capital of The Azores Ribeira Grande has a laid back seaside vibe. The town itself isn’t anything special although it has lots of colourful buildings to admire but the beach is beautiful in a wild and windswept kind of way. I also had some top clams at the beach bar. It’s a good location to be based as it’s in the middle of the island.
I loved my suite at Matriz Guest House, big, light, comfortable with a little balcony and sea view. The breakfast was also fantastic, offering homemade jams, eggs, bread,cheese etc.
Central yet immersed in nature. I stuck to the coast during my trip but if I were to go back I would definitely spend a night or 2 in Furnas. There are quite a few options but the obvious is the spenny but definitely memorable Octant Furnas.
RABO DE PEIXE
Cute traditional town, a little bit run down, but extra charming. If you have a few hours spare take a drive through and see what you find but avoid rush hour.
CAPELAS
Another lovely little village close to the sea.
VILA FRANCA DO CAMPO
Located on the south coast looking out to the famous island. In season you can take a tour to the island from here. There are a few beaches I spotted around here that I would have liked to have explored further if I had the time.
PORTO FORMOSO
Another accidental find was Porto Formoso which sits on the north coast. There are some great beaches, restaurants and best of all? Just a short walk from the car park there is a hidden waterfall that looks like something out of the jungle book! Pack your swimmers! I would stay at Casa da Praia which is right on the beach.
RESORTS IN SÃO MIGUEL
If you’re looking for a real treat while in São Miguel there are some special hotels and resorts to choose from. These are my picks…
For me, the best experience in São Miguel is driving. The scenery is ever-changing and in parts, truly breathtaking. The roads are mostly in very good condition and the tourist infrastructure on São Miguel is well established. Before I left I had already planned to drive the entire ring road so I had researched it well but even without the research São Miguel is easy to navigate. I highly recommend renting a car for most if not all of your trip to São Miguel. Without it you will be limited. The best experiences for me were waking up at sunrise, deciding where to go for the day and being able to go off route when I noticed something cool out my window. I spent the majority of my time in my car exploring.
CRATER LAKES
São Miguel’s impressive crater lakes are probably the island’s biggest draw and the sights most of us want to see. Why? Because there are few places where you can experience natural beauty like this.
One thing you should know about the crater lakes is the weather is really unpredictable on the island and especially around the peaks and lakes. This is why I say you need to be flexible. I was very lucky with the two main crater lakes and was able to see them with clear skies. However even with some cloud they still look amazing. If they are completely covered during the time you were planning on visiting try not to be dissuaded as the weather moves quickly. If you want help planning I recommend using the webcams.
LAGOAS DAS SETE CIDADES
On my first full day I woke up to a clear sky punctuated with stars (thanks to the beautiful remote location of Vila Várzea) so at 6am I drove straight to Sete Cidades with all my fingers crossed. It paid off and as the sun came up the Miradouro Vista do Rei I was treated to an impossibly beautiful view. I’m sure you’ve seen plenty of photos of Lagoas das Sete Cidades but I promise you it is even better in real life. The two lakes are particularly spectacular because of their contrasting colours, one blue and one green. There is an old folk tale associated with this but scientists will tell you it’s simply because they are different depths.
LAGOA DO FOGO
As the sky was still clear when I left Sete Cidades I drove straight to Lagoa do Fogo in the hope it would be the same. I couldn’t believe it but I lucked out again and arrived to a clear blue sky. Although I think most people prefer Sete Cidades, Lagoa do Fogo was my absolute favourite. The drive to the viewpoint was so green and full of cows that I felt as though I could have been back in the UK but when I caught that first glimpse of Fogo I was suddenly in Hawaii. Unless you live on a tropical island I think it would be pretty hard not to be at least a little in awe of Lagoa do Fogo.
LAGOA DAS FURNAS
This huge green crater lake has a trail you can walk around and the road to Furnas runs alongside it. Impossibly tall trees line the lake and it feels like a hidden forest paradise smack bang in the middle of the island. Don’t forget to stop of at Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias too!
Top Tip : I had read and been told over and over again that the weather is extremely unpredictable on the island. The most popular crater lakes and their viewpoints are often in clouds so you have to be prepared to be flexible. If you wake up to a clear day – go, go, go! If you don’t have a clear day don’t panic, the weather changes quickly and while it can be cloudy one hour the next it can be clear. You can use the webcams here to help you plan but bear in mind you can’t see much in the dark.
So my one piece of advice is that if you have a clear day while in São Miguel, get to the crater lakes!
POÇA DA DONA BEIJA POOLS
These pools were a last minute decision after spotting them on GoogleMaps and they turned out to be one of the best surprises of the trip. Poça da Dona Beija is a series of geothermal pools with iron-rich water in a serene space. Located in Furnas. They are also open at night which would be a truly magical experience.
HIKING
Another cool way to see the island is by hiking. There are miles of trails to enjoy. Unfortunately I was recovering from an operation and I didn’t have the full energy needed to hike. AllTrails has some great suggestions though. Remember the weather is very unpredictable and rain is common so make sure you pack all the correct clothing.
FURNAS CALDEIRAS
Another mystical experience isFurnas Caldeiras. These bizarre bubbling, smoking pits are better known as geothermal pools and geysers. So cool and well worth your time. The area is small and easy to walk around; you can stop off on route to Parque Terra Nostra. One of the fanciest hotels is located here and there is also a popular restaurant with a great view.
LUNCH WITH THE LOCALS
I had no shortage of good eats in São Miguel but for me the most “authentic” experience was eating at Café Canto do Cais…. I found this place after many hours of searching GoogleMaps. This local restaurant is extremely good value and serves up huge fish platters (complete with tropical fruit). It’s not that it’s not frequented by tourists (the big writing wall confirms this) but that it is also a lunch spot popular with local workers. It’s simple, cheap, good food with friendly staff. Extra points if you can find my message on the wall!
SWIM IN A WATERFALL
Probably my favourite experience (in addition to the driving) was swimming in the many waterfalls dotted across the island. I wasn’t sure how possible it was going to be but I was really surprised at how accessible most of the waterfalls are. Many of them are actually set up specifically so you can swim in them which is so cool. Seriously hats off to the local council who obviously put a lot of work into protecting the natural assets of São Miguel while also enabling tourists to enjoy them safely.
VISIT A NATURAL PARK
As I’ve already mentioned numerous times São Miguel is overrun with nature – just how I like it! The whole island kinda feels like a natural park but if you want to visit a specific one I can recommend the beautiful Ribeira dos Caldeirões with its shocking pink flowers and crashing waterfall. There is a path that allows you to walk right past the waterfall so you can basically touch it but be careful, it’s slippery!!
SEAFOOD SURROUNDED BY CRASHING WAVES
My favourite meal experience is far from a secret but I loved it nonetheless. Bar do Caloura is tucked away in the tiny cover of Caloura which reminds me so much of southern Puglia and Sicily in Italy. Despite the restaurant firmly holding a place on the tourist trail of São Miguel the location still feels understated. If you’re up for it – try the ‘lapas’ (limpets!) they are arguably the best on the island.. There is a chilled vibe despite the busy restaurant. There are no extras set up to accommodate tourists. There is simply a harbour with a small sea pool and the restaurant right over the sea.I hope it never changes. This is a popular restaurant and you can’t book in advance. However tables do move quite quickly. I arrived just before opening at 12 and managed to get a table within 10 minutes. If you arrive later in the day expect to wait a little longer but it’s worth the wait. Instead of rushing off after the meal, go down to the harbour and enjoy the simple beauty of it all.
WINE TASTING JARDINETE
Whenever I visit a new region or island in Portugal I seek out one tasting experience. While wine tasting is a big shiny deal in Douro (for good reason) the rest of the country is often overlooked. The whole of Portugal from Algarve, to Alentejo to Madeira produces excellent wine and The Azores are no exception. While many may have heard of Pico’s impressive wine production, few realise São Miguel also produces some fantastic wine, albeit on a smaller scale. I found Quinta das Jardinete after extensive GoogleMap research so I booked a tour and tasting. It was brilliant. I love finding small scale producers as you get a real glimpse of the love that goes into producing wine. The tasting took place in a small chapel which was really fun. As it stands Quinta das Jardinete only exports a very small amount of wine to Lisbon, the remaining stays on the island so if you book a tasting here you’re one of only a few that get to experience it. That is until they inevitably grow (you’ll see what I mean when you taste the wine). Book in advance here.
EAT THE BEST PINEAPPLE IN THE WORLD
I had some pretty sweet pineapples in Hawaaii but that was a long time ago. So my new favourite pineapple can be found in The Azores! Make sure you enjoy it in it’s various forms (especially the pineapple cake) but do not leave the island without eating it fresh. You can buy it in most markets and supermarkets and also as a dessert in most restaurants.
CALDEIRA VELHA
To be honest after swimming in lots of waterfalls and visiting the other pools around the island I was a little underwhelmed with Caldeira Velha. The pools were super busy which took away from the relaxation of it. However I’m recommending it because the park is well run and maintained. It’s probably the most accessible waterfall you can swim in. It’s good for families and there’s no denying it, the surroundings are totally gorgeous! To visit you need to book at least a day in advance. You can book online easily here.
BEST MIRADOUROS IN SÃO MIGUEL
I’m not going to list everything here, there are SO MANY miradouro’s but these were the most memorable/unique for me. Click name for the GoogleMap location.
VISTA DOS BARCOS Beautiful spot for sunrise and a peek of the charming winding road down to Nordeste Port.
CINTRÃO Huge cliffs, crashing waves and a feeling you are on top of the world.
LAGOA DO FOGO I still can’t get over the beauty of Lagoa do Fogo.
PICO DOS BODES Probably the strangest miradouro I came across, but pretty cool too, don’t you think?
VISTA DO REI (SETE CIDADES) In my opinion the best view of Lagoa das Sete Cidades
HIDDEN GEMS IN SÃO MIGUEL
Again, there is no limit on hidden gems to find on this island. Everyday feels like a treasure hunt. Here are just a few of my favourite spots.
NORDESTE PORT VIEW Porto do Nordeste is one of the more remote corners of the island. Huge dramatic cliffs with tumble-down houses and fishing shacks. The view gets better the closer you get to the beach and you’ll drive straight past the Arnel lighthouse which is pretty impressive in itself. Top tip : Go to the Port early so you can drive to the bottom of the cliffs without traffic. Beware the road is very steep so you need confidence when driving back up!
PRAIA RIBEIRA DAS TAINHAS This lovely little beach close to Vila Franca do Campo (like many of the beaches on this stretch of coast) reminded me of southern Italy. There was too much swell the day I was there but on a calm summer day you can swim out to the small rock, climb the ladder and claim it as your island for the day!
WATERFALL PORTO FORMOSO My favourite waterfall experience is somewhat hidden but still very easy to reach. It’s located a 10 minute walk from the carpark at Porto Formoso. It’s amazing how quickly it turns from concrete to jungle! Very cool! Both the path and pool are well maintained.
MAIA Mentioning this village by the sea again because I’m confident most people wouldn’t think to visit it but it is in a really great location and feels more authentic than some of the bigger towns.
COFFEE WITH A WITH VIEW NORDESTE In search for breakfast I found this cafe with a view. Turned out the didn’t have breakfast but the terrace offered the best view to drink my morning coffee.
FIND YOUR OWN HIDDEN POOL
This is a true secret spot so I’m not going to share all the details but I want you to know there are lots of hidden gems to be found on São Miguel that really are very special. If you’ve got the time to explore the coast paths you’ll be rewarded greatly. If you want to take a dip here, head to Maia and follow the coastal path. Keep your eyes peeled. This spot can’t be found on GoogleMaps – let’s keep it that way!
Part of the joy of travel is finding these for yourself so go forth and explore!
BEST RESTAURANTS + BARS IN SÃO MIGUEL
Just a couple of the best eats and drinks in São Miguel….
BAR CALOURA, CALOURA
Already mentioned above, but it was my favourite dining experience overall. Highly recommend If you want to enjoy fresh fish by the sea. You can’t book in advance so be prepared to wait for a seat. It’s worth it.
SUNSET STEVE’S BAR, MOSTEIROS
Situated way out west in Mosterois this funky seaside shack offers drinks and snacks but more importantly a great sunset view (when the weather allows!). This seemed to be a popular hangout spot for locals and it had a really friendly laid back vibe. There’s loads of seating but even if it’s busy you can grab a place on the wall.
CAFÉ CANTO DO CAIS RESTAURANT, CAPELAS
Mentioned in my best experiences. A local lunch spot with great value seafood and meat platters. Passionfruit with fish? Honestly? It’s delicious!
A TASCA, PONTA DELGADA
Excellent tapas in central Ponta Delgada. The only problem with A Tasca is everything on the menu looks amazing. I was there solo and didn’t get to try everything I wanted. It would be the perfect place to come with a group or at least as a couple! Be prepared to wait for a table. It’s worth it.
TUKA TULA, RIBEIRA GRANDE
The best beach bar in Ribeira Grande for a treat meal. Small but tasty portions. I loved the Amêjioas! They also make mean cocktails if you fancy a change from Especial lager.
WHAT TO EAT IN SÃO MIGUEL
LAPAS Limpets. Yes, really. These little sea nuggets are a must when you are in the Azores (and Madeira). Imagine a mix between clams and mussels and you’re kinda there. Best shared with friends and a bottle of vinho verde.
ESPECIAL São Miguel’s own beer. A nice break and very obvious flavour change from the usual Sagres and Superbock you’ll find on the mainland.
PREGO Steak sandwich anyone? On an island with so many grass fed cows it’s no surprise São Miguel makes an excellent one. Remember you pay for what you get so avoid the super cheap ones if you want the real deal.
PINEAPPLE CAKE I really wasn’t expecting to love this as much as I did but it really is the perfect match for a strong coffee. Eat it in as many places as you can! I had several and they were all good!
TERRAS DE LAVA WINE I’ve been drinking Portuguese wine almost non-stop since 2016 so I know what I like. Although this bottle from Pico (another island in Azores) doesn’t quite live up to my beloved Alentejo whites it’s a very close second. I loved it so much as soon as I got back I stocked up my fridge with it! Definitely give it a try when in Azores.
So there we are, an action-packed travel guide for the mesmerising island of São Miguel in The Azores.
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Of all the regions I’ve visited in Portugal, Madeira is, by far, the best for experiences. I know that’s a big claim, but it really does have it all. As someone who is a sucker for unique experiences, spending two weeks in Madeira was just like being a kid in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. Dramatic landscapes, epic driving, mouth watering food, waterfalls, wine and wonder. Ladies and gentlemen… welcome to Madeira!
Madeira is so special that the original Madeira travel guide was overflowing with experiences so I wrote a specific experience guide. This island is made for adventure so buckle up, here is my personal run down of Madeira’s best experiences.
HIKE TO MADEIRA’S HIGHEST POINT – THE BREATHTAKING PICO RUIVO
At 1861m Pico Ruivo is Madeira ‘s highest peak and a part of the island’s most spectacular hike. There are several ways to reach Ruivo. The easiest is the PR1.2 route from Achada do Teixeira. This fairly easy hike takes around an hour and has you above the clouds almost immediately. The most famous hike is the longer, more challenging PR1 route which links the 3 highest peaks together Pico Arieiro, Pico das Torres and Pico Ruivo. This 23 km route delivers a challenging but breathtaking hike with views you won’t forget in a hurry. If hikings not your jam but you don’t want to miss out on the views you’re in luck. There is a car park a very short walk from the peak of Arieiro which delivers the most incredible sunrise and sunset. Arrive early (before sunrise) if you want to guarantee a space at the top car park and grab a space at the lookout.
SWIM AND FROLIC IN THE PORTO MONIZ NATURAL POOLS
Porto Moniz is one of the more ‘touristy’ places in Madeira but with good reason. The town is on the most western point and looks across to Seixal and the most stunning cliffs plunging into the ocean. Another big draw is the natural pools. Usually I am completely put off by crowded places but I really enjoyed swimming at the pools here. Even during the busiest time of day there is space to find your own rock.
STAY IN A REAL MOUNTAIN SHELTER
This is one of the coolest experiences I had in Madeira. Not many people know you can stay in the mountain shelter at Pico Ruivo, in fact I read blogs specifically telling people you can’t. I’m here to tell you can, and it’s brilliant! Casa Do Abrigo is just 10 minutes down from the peak. It’s extremely basic and there is no electricity but for €18 you’ll get a bed with warm bedding and access to the toilets and showers (cold water only). One thing to note – there is no hot food available, only snacks but there is a bbq area if you want to bring your own to cook. Alternatively if you are on PR1.2 you can fill up at Achada do Teixeira mountain spot cafe before you arrive (about a 1 hour hike from Casa Abrigo).
This is one of the best ways to get close to nature in Madeira and the island is completely set up for it. Wild camping is illegal in Portugal but Madeira has around 12 designated areas spread across the island where it’s allowed. The only rule is you must apply for a camping permit first. The process is free and very easy – visit here to apply.
EMBARK ON A DRIVING ADVENTURE RIGHT THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF THE ISLAND
Sea view with banana palms Madeira
Madeira is Made for driving! It is the only way to really experience the island. I spent two weeks navigating my way up and down, round and round the island; my jaw was constantly at my feet. There is a great road between São Vincente and Porto do Sol that takes you from the coast up to almost the highest point and back down through the valley to the other coast. The scenery is breathtaking the entire way and I can confidently say the roads are some of the most scenic I’ve ever driven on. One thing to keep in mind, some roads (especially sections of the ring road) may be closed due to weather/other dangers. Please respect these closures for your own and other’s safety, and for the protection of this beautiful island.
You’ll notice I mention Zest in many of my guides. That’s because I’ve used them for my car hire all over Portugal including Madeira. I highly recommend them for their easy-to-use website and excellent customer service.
If you’re looking for a real remote feeling, drive out to Ponta do Pargoand walk the windswept cliffs. This was one of the most remote feeling places I drove and it’s guaranteed to make you feel small. Don’t forget to stop off at Gato Legal for coffee.
GET A FREE CAR WASH AND SHOWER
It may not be Madeira’s best kept secret but Cascata dos Anjos has to be one of the most unique experiences on the island.This dramatic waterfall lands right onto the road making the most exciting car wash of your life; or if you’re up for it, the most exciting shower of your life.
TAKE PART IN A WINE TASTING WITH A VIEW
I’m sure you’ve already heard of and probably even tasted the island’s famous ‘Madeira’ wine but did you know the island also has some stunning table wines and some spectacular places to drink them. I’ve been lucky enough to take part in wine tastings all over Portugal and Quinta do Barbusano winery based in São Vicente is one of, if not, the most beautiful.
Achadas da Cruz is a remote village in a hidden corner of Madeira. The only access is via boat or a steep cable car. For €5 you can ride down to the secluded beach and village. Walk the stone path and admire the towering cliffs plunging down to the ocean. Natural beauty at its finest.
Booked your stay yet? If not I recommend splitting your time and staying in a few different places. My personal favourites are Madalena do Mar (hidden gem!) and São Vicente. You can use the search box below to find accommodation.
BATHE AT A BLACK SAND BEACH
Madeira isn’t known for sandy beaches. Although there are some jaw dropping beaches to explore there are only two (black) sand beaches on the island, the rest are stoney. These black beauties may not be the typical beach you think of when you think of Portugal but they do offer a unique beach experience. Pack your bathers and a towel and head to Seixal for a day on this black sand beach.
If you’re looking for sandy beaches and more chances to sunbathe it’s worth mentioning Porto Santo (a short ferry or flight away) has some gorgeous white sand beaches to enjoy.
I could go on and on but part of the magic of Madeira is getting out and finding your own experiences so…off you go! Have fun! If (when) you find other cool experiences let me know so I can add them to my next trip itinerary!
Thinking of planning a trip to Madeira but overwhelmed? I can help! Book in a travel planning call with me and we’ll create the perfect itinerary so that you can make the most of the island and leave with memories that will last a lifetime.
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but there are just too many options, I can help you make the most of your time. If you want a personalised travel itinerary, full to the brim with authentic experiences, I’ve got you…
The ultimate travel guide for Madeira Island in Portugal
At the end of 2022 I spent two action-packed weeks in Madeira and it surpassed every expectation I had. Madeira is a travel guide that has been missing from my collection for far too long and I’m so happy I finally got the chance to visit. I have been lucky enough to travel to some special islands in my lifetime and Madeira is right up there with my favourites. In my humble opinion Madeira is one of the most underrated destinations in the world. This trip was truly one of my favourite ever adventures and I can’t wait to go back.
This travel guide has been a while in the making because I wanted to make sure I didn’t miss anything. As always, I don’t rush writing my travel guides. A lot of time and consideration goes into making them and they aren’t like any other you’ll find online. They are written from personal experience, not just regurgitated information you can find anywhere. I hope it can help you plan the very best trip to Madeira. Ready to get started? Let’s go!
WHY MADEIRA?
The island of Madeira is truly unique. Imagine a tropical island mixed with Jurassic park and you’ll have a glimpse of whats on offer. Although Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal and home to the same friendly, welcoming Portuguese I have come to know and love on the mainland, the island has its own distinct vibe that cannot be found elsewhere in the country.
The largest island in the Macronesia archipelago, Madeira is situated off the coast of northern Africa. It is one of three islands; the other two being Porto Santo and Desertas.
Madeira is just a short hop from Portugal; a 1h30 hour flight from Lisbon. 3h45 from London and 7h50 from New York. The international airport Santa Cruz is Portugal’s 4th largest.
I always use SkyScanner to check for flights.If you are able to be flexible you’ll find some great value journeys there. A good tip on how to find the best price is to select an ‘entire month’ when searching; this allows you to pick and choose arrival and departure dates using a traffic light system.
HOW TO GET AROUND MADEIRA
I strongly recommend getting a hire car for at least some if not all of your trip. Without it your experience of the island will be limited. For me the best activity was the actual driving itself. The roads on Madeira offer breathtaking views and using a car is the best way to explore the island deeper.
As usual I used Zest to find my car. I’ve been using Zest for many years now and I have them to thank for most of my driving experiences in Europe, but especially in Portugal.
If you don’t hire a car you’ll probably want to base yourself in Funchal and take tours out of the city. There is a great airport shuttle that runs approximately every hour and drops off at more than a dozen stops in the Funchal area.
Love road trips? Save some of these routes for your next trip…
Like much of Europe, the peak season is summer so Portugal (including Madeira) is busiest in July and August school holidays. Shoulder seasons (May, June, September, October) are a great time to visit the island but even if you can’t make those months you will still be able to enjoy the island. If you plan on hiking and getting up in the mountains then spring or autumn is best.
WEATHER IN MADEIRA
The weather in Madeira is, how shall we put it… unpredictable. It’s an island out in the Atlantic exposed to the elements. It can be quite humid; expect a mix of hot sunshine and rain showers, wind and maybe even the odd storm blowing through. The weather changes depending on where (or how high up) you are on the island so if you’re stuck in the rain don’t assume the whole island is the stuck in the same rain. It is usually warmer than mainland Portugal and both the air and sea temperature is very pleasant.
HOW TO LONG TO STAY IN MADEIRA
Madeira is one of those places you can stay for a long weekend, two weeks, or 3 months. There is so much to see and do that you can fill up your time no matter how long you stay. If it is your first trip a night or two is not enough, even for Funchal. Give Madeira at least 4 nights of your time, but if you have the luxury of more time then a week or 10 days would be ideal. I spent two weeks on the island and I feel like I could have doubled that time and still not have seen everything.
WHERE TO STAY IN MADEIRA
Most people flock to Funchal but although the capital is worth spending time in, it’s got nothing on some of the other spots on the island. For a genuine and authentic experience I recommend splitting your time between several bases. As usual I booked the majority of my accommodation through booking.com. They have the widest range of accommodation. Airbnb is worth looking at too. Many places do not have their own website but do consider booking directly if you can. The one thing I would say is always try to book in advance if you can. I booked my Madeira trip very last minute and I struggled finding good accommodation options that were still available.
Here are a few locations to consider when staying in Madeira.
FUNCHAL
The obvious and easiest choice is Madeira’s capital – Funchal. It’s only 40 mins from the airport and has the biggest choice of accommodation on the island. This is the best place to stay if you don’t have a car as most tours depart from here.
However I strongly recommend hiring a car and splitting your time.
SÃO VICENTE
This small but lively hub is on the north coast 15 minutes east from Seixal. I stayed here for several nights and started to really fall in love with it. You get a mix of mountains and sea in close proximity to each other and you are also close to Seixal and Porto Moniz.
Casa da Piedade This 8 room guest house is set in a tropical paradise. The rooms are spacious and well decorated and an excellent traditional breakfast is included. The pool and garden are a welcoming sight after a day on the road or a long hike. If you’re looking for a day or two to chill this is the place for you.
Garden’s Guest House This guest house is great value and includes a kitchen if you want to cook for a change. Balcony rooms have great views out towards to ocean.
MADALENA DO MAR
This cute village on the sea is a true hidden gem. Just a 10 minute drive from the popular digital nomad town of Porta do Sol but with its own local charm and authentic feel. The village is surrounded by banana palms making it feel even more tropical than Madeira already does.
I stayed in a small duplex which is no longer available but you can find more stays here.
If you are traveling with a small group, kids or you just like a lot of space I found this gorgeous house Casa da Madalena do Mar with unbeatable sea views.
SANTANA
I stayed in a “traditional” house in Santana which is no longer available. This is a great location for hiking though so consider searching for some other accommodation options in the area such as this gorgeous bed & breakfast with pool.
SPLURGE STAYS IN MADEIRA
Madeira has a wide range of accommodation to offer. I personally tend to choose apartments and unique guest houses when traveling in Portugal. However every now and again I like to treat myself to a ‘splurge’ hotel or spa. Here are my picks in Madeira based on great location and facilities.
A true highlight was spending a few nights wild camping in Madeira’s natural beauty and if you have the time and are able to bring or hire the equipment – then do it!
There are a dozen or so legal wild camping spots on Madeira but you must apply for a permit in advance (it’s free and easy) . I can personally recommend Chão das Feiteiras (great views of the peaks and friendly sheep) and Chão dos louros (more sheltered from the elements and with plenty of parking).
WHAT TO SEE + DO IN MADEIRA
The island is ALL about experiences so I have written a specific guide for this.
There is so much to see, do and experience in Madeira that it’s almost impossible to get it all done in one trip but these were my true highlights.
HIKE A PEAK (OR TWO)
Madeira has some of the most dramatic backdrops I’ve come across in my years of travel. Whether you’re a hiking addict or new to the activity you’ll be blown away by the trails in Madeira. The most popular (and for good reason) hike is the PR1 between Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo. There are several ways to do this hike. Most (including myself) do the out and back hike which is 23 km. I’m no hiking expert, but in my opinion the hike is moderately challenging and at least some fitness would be helpful. There were some parts that had me totally out of breath but wow, the views along the trail are truly unbelievable. For those of you not really into hiking still plan for a Pico do Arieiro sunrise during your trip. If you arrive early 30min to an hour before sunrise you can park right at the top. This means you only have to take a few steps to watch the magic unfold.
Another hike with jaw dropping views to consider is the PR8. Not only does this 14km (out and back) hike offer stunning views across Madeira but a couple of unspoilt beaches too. Unlike the mainland of Portugal the ocean here is warm and if you bring your googles you may even see a few tropical fish. There is a great cafe offering drinks and snacks at the midway point.
WILD CAMP
This is such a unique experience that I highly recommend spending at least a night of your trip under the stars. Wild camping is usually illegal in Portugal but Madeira offers a limited amount of wild camping spots at designated areas on the island. You can secure a permit here.
DRINK A PONCHA
If you’ve read even one guide on madeira you have probably noticed the name Poncha pop up once or twice. This kick-ass drink can be found across the island and is made up of sugar cane brandy and fresh juice (traditionally lemon). Poncha is notoriously strong so beware of the taster flights you can find in Funchal. You have been warned! Find a bar who will make it fresh in front of you for the full experience. My favourite Poncha experience was at Snack Bar Restaurante Boca Da Encumeada.
SWIM IN THE NATURAL POOLS OF PORTO MONIZ
Another popular experience in Madeira that you should definitely jump into. I was a little worried about visiting Porto Moniz as from everything I read it was very busy and a stop off for lots of tours. When I arrived my fears were confirmed – it was so busy, but much to my surprise I had a brilliant afternoon despite the crowds. The pools are such a unique shape that there are plenty of little cubby holes and crevices. I had no problem finding a secluded spot to swim in. The atmosphere was actually really fun. Lots of happy families plunging in and out of the (warm!) pools so I would definitely recommend this if you have kids too. I didn’t get to test my theory because I ran out of time but I bet if you arrived for sunrise you’d have this natural park to yourself. One more thing, if you take the short walk to the port you may be able to catch a glimpse of fisherman unloading their haul of scabbard fish – amazing!
DRIVE THE ISLAND
The best way to see this island is on your own wheels. The driving is utterly breathtaking and you’ll be able to discover corners most tourists will never see. I definitely recommend hiring a car for at least a day or two. Most of my favourite experiences were thanks to the flexibility I had from my hire car. Pin your most-wanted on GoogleMaps but don’t be afraid to go off-course too. One thing to keep in mind, some roads (especially sections of the ring road) may be closed due to weather/other dangers. Please respect these closures for your own and other’s safety, and for the protection of this beautiful island.
You may notice I didn’t mention the famous toboggan run in Funchal. I chose not to do this activity while I was there because personally I think it’s overpriced and just a touch too touristy for me. If I wasn’t solo then I think I would have been happy to shell out for the experience. The information is super easy to find online. Go forth and enjoy!
WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK IN MADEIRA
Portugal is home to some of the tastiest fish and meat dishes you’ll find on planet earth and let’s not forget the freshly baked goods either. Madeira is no exception. What I loved about this island is that there are many specialities that you cannot find on the mainland. Through travel in Madeira my knowledge of Portuguese cuisine has grown a little deeper. Here are just a few of the many delicious dishes and drinks you need to try in Madeira.
LAPAS (limpets) Limpets. Yes, really. Probably not the sort of thing you imagine eating but these amazing gifts from the sea are a delicious mix between a clam and a scallop. They taste even better washed down with a glass of white wine next to the sea at A Taberna Madalena do Mar mentioned below.
ESPADA PRETO (black scabbard fish) Esapada preto could easily earn the title “ugliest fish in the ocean” but these menacing looking creatures are surprisingly tasty. Traditionally eaten with bananas so look out for this dish on the menu.
BOLO DE CACO The closest bread product I can compare this too is an English muffin. These traditional rolls are usually served toasted with homemade garlic butter. You can find them all over the island and you absolutely must order as many as possible. I’ve tried but failed to find anywhere on the mainland that sells these as good as in Madeira.
NIKITA Beer mixed with pineapple ice cream. Say whaaaat?! Yes it is as wonderful as it sounds. Sweet, creamy and perfect on a hot day. This creation is officially a top 5 drink for me.
BEST RESTAURANTS AND BARS IN MADEIRA
I’ll start by saying this is not a comprehensive guide of restaurants in Madeira because there are simply too many to share. Also I think when it comes to restaurants we all have to be a little bit braver and seek out some hidden gems. Here are a few of my favourites I found while on the road…
Taberna Boca da Encumeada (Encumeada) I accidentally found this when searching for my wild camp spot. It has a few outdoor tables (that were shrouded in mist when i arrived giving it a very eerie but cool vibe) and a bar with a tonne of character
A Taberna Madalena do Mar (Madalena do Mar) This beachside shack gave me all the Thai vibes. Plastic chairs right on the rocks, excellent lapas and cheap wine! Take me back now!
Bar Dona Maria (Madalena do Mar) A typical Portuguese snack bar. Uber cheap, drink with the locals, and do it with a view of the black sand beach and dramatic cliffs. Perfeito!
Gato Legal Coffee (Ponta do Pargo) I’m a coffee snob. While I happily knock back Portuguese coffee in espresso form I’m a sucker for specialty coffee. After a bit of research I found Gato Legal and it perked me right up.
Calhau snack bar (Achadas da Cruz) Nothing particularly spectacular about the food if I’m being honest, but the view? Oh my. Lovely spot for some lunch and a few beers. Don’t forget to ride the cable car!
Quinta do Barbusano (São Vincente) Mentioned in my ‘best experiences in Madeira guide’ this winery is perched high above São Vincente and has a spectacular vista to sip wine in front of. I did a brilliant wine tasting here but they also have a great restaurant. Book in advance.
Mountain Spot cafe (Achada do Teixeira) Kind of like you just arrived at a chalet in the Alps, except this is Portugal and you’re about to hike to the highest peak on the island. Great spot to shelter and fill up on some warm grub before or after you hit the trail. This is also the parking spot for the start of PR1.2.
Okay, how are we feeling? Have you got at least a small idea of how amazing Madeira is? I hope so! This guide is designed to help you start planning the perfect trip to Madeira but don’t stop here. If you’d like some help planning an action packed but realistic itinerary book a travel planning call and we’ll get you on the road and make sure you have a trip of a lifetime.
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy? I’m here to help.
If you want to plan the perfect trip but there are just too many options, I can help you make the most of your time. If you want a personalised travel itinerary, full to the brim with authentic experiences, I’ve got you…
I hope you found this Madeira guide helpful. Don’t forget to forge your own path too and find your own hidden treasures around the island. Happy adventuring!
All photos are taken by me. Please do not use without credit and a link to this page.
