Hot, vibrant and brimming with culture, Sevilla is my favourite Andalusian weekend break and the city in Spain I visit the most. I’ve already written an Andalusia Accommodation Guide including a list of places I’ve actually stayed in the region, but I thought it was about time we got up and personal with Seville’s charming neighbourhoods and gorgeous stays.
Not only do I visit the city every few months, I also plan Seville and Andalusia trips for dozens of couples and families every year. Whatever month it is, you can guarantee Ive spent some of it seeking the best accommodation for my clients and plotting memorable trips. Naturally, I’ve built up my own wish list of hotels, apartments and unique stays. Since there is not enough time in the world for me to stay in all of them, I may as well share them with you.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
How long to spend in Seville
Seville is one of those cities that you can fit a lot into a day but deserves more time. 4 days is a good number to allow you to see and experience without filling every hour of the day. If you have a week you can take a day trip around the Pueblos Blancos or visit Córdoba, Jerez de la Frontera or Cadiz.
Best areas to stay in Seville : Which neighbourhood ?
This is where we need to start because there are lots of different corners of Seville each with their own personality. I’m not going to bore you with every neighbourhood in this post but there are two main considerations.
Where to Stay in Triana
My favourite neighbourhood to stay because it feels like it’s own town and has a really local atmosphere, yet it’s just a short walk over the bridge to the main sites and action. It’s also great for traditional tapas bars and late night flamenco.
This is in the heart of the action and historic centre where your architectural neighbours are likely very old and very beautiful. Great for first timers. I’ve stayed in/around Santa Cruz several times, and for a first visit I’d choose it if being able to walk everywhere is your priority.
Andalusia is all about passion, and there is nowhere that is more true than Seville. It’s the perfect city for couples, with cosy rooftops, underground flamenco and sharing plates. These are the best spots for a romantic stay.
Seville is one of the cheaper cities in Spain for accommodation. Here are a few options for less than €120 a night (and a few highly rated hostels too)
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
I visit Seville at least twice a year so I’ll keep updating this guide! I hope it’s helped you figure out where to stay in the vibrant city of Seville. Happy Planning!
Welcome to the not enough time but that won’t stop me side of this travel planning website. This is a travel guide to help you make the most of your short time in Seville. It’s part of a series of travel guides called 24 hours in.
’24 Hours in…’ Travel Guide Series
This is a collection of short travel guides on how to spend 24 hours in various cities or islands in Spain, Italy and Portugal. The guides are written from my own personal travels and 24 hour side quests since moving to Portugal in 2016. 24 hours is never enough time to see and experience a destination fully and this series is never about suggesting you only spend 24 hours in any of these places. They exist to help you maximise 24 hours if that is all you have. These guides are written from my personal experience as a professional travel planner and all round well-travelled human.
Who am I and why am I telling you how to spend 24 hours in Seville?
I’m an independent travel planner based in Portugal since 2016 and planning and executing trips to Spain and Italy for over 10 years. Itinerary design is my profession and my passion and I’ve helped hundreds of people plan trips to southern Europe (including Seville and the region of Andalusia). I’ve lived out my own 24 hours in Seville trip, which is the basis of this guide, but I also visit Seville multiple times a year. I’ve spent extensive time researching and traveling around Andalusia (it’s my favourite region of Spain) which means you can trust the information you see here.
Andalusia is my most-visited region of Spain. I spend anywhere from a few weeks to a few months a year road tripping my way around the region. You’ll find everything you need to plan a trip to Andalusia right here.
Want to see all my personal Andalusia recommendations in one place? After years of traveling around Andalusia and constantly being asked for suggestions on where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat… I finally built a map to share it all. The Andalusia Travel Map…
Getting in and out of Seville : Planes, cars, trains & buses
Arriving to Seville by Plane
Seville airport is small, but well-connected. Getting to and from the airport is easy but allow up to an hour to get from the airport to your accommodation. The airport bus is known as the EA and costs €5 each way. You can buy tickets on board. The main stop is Santa Justa train station which is reached in about 30 minutes but the bus goes on to more central parts of the city after this stop. Alternatively you can take an Uber or Bolt.
Arriving to Seville by Car
Andalusia is a region best explored by car. I embark on a 2 week road trip through the region every summer and having my own wheels has helped me reach places most don’t go. If you are visiting Seville as part of a longer trip then you may have a car. You don’t need a car in Seville and although parking is not impossible it’s also not easy so I recommend picking up your rental car after your time in Seville.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
If you combine a trip to Seville with a trip to Portugal, the city is only 3 hours from central Algarve and 4.5hours from Lisbon.
I can personally recommend Zest for car hire in Spain. I’ve used them on all of my road trips around the region. I’ve got myself in various pickles over the years but the no excess insurance has always covered my back. The customer service team is brilliant too.
Arriving to Seville by Train or Bus
Seville is well connected by both train and bus. There are good (and usually fast connections) to other major cities like Madrid, Malaga, Cordoba, and Granada. Renfe is the main train service but AVE (high speed trains) are also available between some cities such as Madrid and Seville. Santa Justa station is the main train station in Seville. Seville is also well-connected by bus. The most frequently used bus services are Alsa and Flixbus.
24 Hours in Seville : Tips to make the most of it
Research before. Feel free during your trip.
I am always blown away by how few people actually research a destination before a trip. Transport, logistics, opening and closing times, hotel locations, activity details, routes between sites, etc.
These are all necessary to make the most on a trip to Seville but things that take time to research and put together. It’s better to spend that time before your trip rather than while you’re on it. Plan, plan, plan before you land because everything you do now, gives you extra minutes and hours in Seville. Luckily for you, you’ve made it here. This travel guide will help you maximise time in the city.
The Caveat : Don’t plan every single minute…
Planning is key and the research you do now will save you time while you are in Seville but if you have every half hour of your day planned out before you arrive you miss out on the unexpected moments that come from wandering without a plan. It makes sense to have a list of places you want to visit and a rough route to follow but always allow for some free time too. It’s usually this time that ends up being the most memorable.
If you’d like some help on planning the perfect 24 hours in Seville or know how you can build this into an Andalusia itinerary, book a travel consultation and I can remove all of that stress for you. Travel planning is my job so I’m equipped to help you make the most of your trip and help you build an itinerary that aligns with you.
See Seville at Sunrise
24 hour trips are not the time to savour slow mornings in hotel rooms, they are the trips to get out and about with the birds. I’m a fan of sunrise in any city and Seville is no exception. One of the best ways to maximise time in Seville is to get out for those first few golden hours of the day. Sites like the cathedral and particularly Plaza de España are serene at this time of day and make the morning cafe del leche even sweeter.
Get around Seville by Bike
Another way to maximise time while also having a fun experience is exploring Seville by bike. Seville is considered the most bike-friendly city in Spain. Tip: Pick up your bike the night before if you can so you can get out the door super early. You’ll be rolling through the streets without another soul and seeing the sites from a privileged perspective without the crowds. Riding through the historical centre is best in the morning otherwise you will need to weave in and out of people. The river is a more spacious area to ride. I used All of Seville to rent but there are lots of options. Book in advance if you can.
Running Seville
My most recent trip to Seville was part of my 5 cities, 5 days, 50km challenge trip. I ran 10km a day for 5 days in 5 different cities. Seville was city number one, when I was at my most enthusiastic and I loved bounding between the sites of the city at first thing. I have visited Seville so many times so I know the city well but I still planned a running route before I arrived which made the 10km feel like a breeze. If you plan on running around Seville, go early, before the crowds start filling in the city.
Where to stay in Seville
I’ve written a specific guide for best places to stay in Seville.
These are the classic hotels to stay in Seville. All rated 9.0 or more. Book in advance during summer months. BookingCom has free cancellation in most cases.
Hotel Casa 1800 – 4*, historic centre, rooftop pool and amazing views
Hotel Colón (by Melia), 5*, central, luxury, leading hotel
Best Hotels and Apartments in Triana
A special note for this neighbourhood because, staying here feels like staying in a town seperate to Seville but still only a short walk from the buzz of central Seville. Triana is my choice for most trips to Seville.
Cavalta Small Luxury hotels, 5* Boutique hotel in the heart of Triana
Budget Stay Options in Seville
Do you prefer to spend your money of activities and food than accommodation? Seville is one of the more affordable cities in Spain compared to Madrid and Barcelona which means there are plenty of options to help you with this plan.
In my opinion Seville is one of the tastiest cities in Andalusia but the sheer number of restaurants makes picking just one or two very difficult.
Best Tapas Bars Seville
With such a short amount of time I recommend conducting a ‘tapas route’ and tasting something different in each. Here are a few I personally recommend.
Casa Eme – Proof that no matter how many times I visit Seville, I will never know it all. Despite visiting Seville every year for 10 years my first visit to tapas bar Casa Eme was in 2026 and i would now consider it my top choice. Small bar, small menu, big flavour, the best Solomillo whiskey sauce. Still dreaming of it today. Arrive early.
Bar Casa Morales Traditional family-run tapas bar
El Rinconcello – you will see this on every single tapas bar list because it’s the oldest in Seville. Thanks to the name it is now very very busy but the food is great. More than that, the building is beautiful and even if you don’t eat it’s worth popping your head into to see the tiles.
Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas – Indulge in tapas on a Typical patio, also for breakfast
Pelayo Bar Wooden tables, traditional setting, all the favourites
Las Teresas This is a tourist haunt and not somewhere you are going to bump into locals but I do love the buzz in here. The setting is exactly that you expect from a Andalusian bar and honestly despite the reviews, I have great food every time. It is crowded, but worth a quick stop.
La Antigua Abacería (Triana) I have fond memories of rosemary encrusted manchego and pig cheeks.
Las Golondrinas (Triana) Tiny tapas bar with local vibe and typical dishes.
Want to get to know Seville’s food scene and history more deeply? Book a food tour with a local. This is one of my favourite ways to learn about a city especially in Spain.
What to Eat : Foods to Taste in Seville
Salmorejo A cold tomato soup (thicker than gazpacho) served with egg and ham. Traditionally from Córdoba
Jamon Ibérico Iberian ham carved off the bone, need I say more?
Croquetas much loved by basically everyone and you can find them everywhere. Typically ham and cheese but you can find many versions. Each one varies from bar to bar which is part of the food adventure.
Berenjenas con Miel Hot, fried eggplant served with dark honey.
Solomillo al Whisky Pork tenderloin in whiskey sauce from Seville. The sauce is also used on other dishes like tortilla.
Cazon en Adobo Fried Cazon fish. One of my go to tapa dishes with wine in Andalusia.
Espinacas con Garbanzos Cooked chickpeas, spinach and spices. Stew-like.
Rooftops of Seville
Another way to spend an afternoon or evening is at a rooftop bar. A way to relax while enjoying the stunning architecture.
Best Seville Experiences and Activities to add to your Itinerary
Let’s start with the same bit of advice I give every time (and also the bit of advice I struggle to stick to myself) – don’t try to fit too much into your 24 hours in Seville. The experience will be much more enjoyable and memorable if you see and feel a few places deeply than rushing from point to point. So here is a list of suggestions to pick from, but don’t try to fit it all in.
Visit the Royal Alcazar – the obvious. You need a few hours at least to dedicate to this so make sure you plan for it in your 24 hours itinerary. Advanced booking essential. Tip: book direct, not with GYG or other third-party.
See the Cathedral. Marvel at its beauty with a take away coffee sat on the fountain.
Watch a flamenco show (see below)
Pre-plan a Tapas Route to get a taste of all the dishes (see above)
Wander the Triana neighbourhood, including the mercado.
If you’re visiting in summer, stop for an afternoon drinks next to the river
Rent kayaks and paddle the river
Watch Flamenco in a Tablao, Peña and Taberna.
You’ll find this activity on every Seville itinerary and once you have watched a real show you’ll understand why. I love Flamenco and Spanish guitar, the emotion in the music captures me like no other. I watch Flamenco every time I am in Andalusia and I’ve seen multiple shows in Seville.
There are many types of shows you can watch and these take part in different locations. For a first time experience start with an actual show. These shows are performed at Tablaos and are specifically for tourists but (as long as you choose a good one) are a quintessential Seville experience.
In addition to polished shows you can find various styles of Flamenco performances in Tabernas and Peñas.
Tabernas are essentially local bars where you can watch informal flamenco performances, sat on tables and enjoy drinks (and sometimes dinner).
Peñas are local Flamenco clubs. These offer a more intimate and intense performance where the focus is solely on the music, but without the regimented and polished nature of some of the tourist-driven shows.
Best Places to watch Flamenco in Seville
A few Flamenco options to consider, but this is by no means exhaustive :
Teatro Flamenco Sevilla the most popular Tablao for first-time visitors
La Carboneria Old warehouse tavern with patio and detailed features. This is a popular spot for tourists but consistently ranked as one of the best by locals too.
Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena Local neighbourhood Flamenco club
Pura Vida Terraza Rooftop bar with casual Flamenco shows on Saturdays and Sunday
Ánima Galería Taberna A place to witness informal “jam sessions” also known as tertulias on Wednesdays and Saturdays. This is not the place to go for a polished show but it is the place to go for an authentic experience.
A special shout out to Córdoba which is a city bathed in culture, including Flamenco. if you have longer than 24 hours I recommend staying in Córdoba for some of your trip too.
Here’s the thing. 24 hours is not enough time for Seville and the itinerary depends a lot on your personal travel style. Do you love history? Art? Food? Adventure? It’s impossible to do it all in 24 hours, but if you only have one day then by knowing whats possible will help you make the most of this warm, vibrant and tasty city.
Only have 1 day in Seville? Here is how you could spend it.
Morning in Seville
Up at sunrise for either a run or walk to Plaza de España. This is one of the most popular sites in Seville and so it gets very crowded later in the day. If you arrive first thing in the morning not only will you have the space to enjoy it without rushing, you will see it in the most beautiful light. Then make your way to the cathedral for the same reason.
Next up, fuel. Coffee and breakfast. Whether you’ve run, cycled or strolled your way through the early hours you’re going to want to top up on all the good things Seville can offer at this time of day.
For typical Andalusian breakfast, you need to visit a typical cafe. Breakfast is usually toasted bread with grated tomato, olive oil and cured ham, sometimes with cheese too. Orange juice is common and of course coffee. For coffee con leche (with milk) is usual but so is espresso.
Looking for churros? Perfect – breakfast is the only acceptable time to eat them. It’s a common breakfast food and you’ll never see locals eating them in the afternoon.
If you’re a specialty coffee fan or looking for a more filling brunch style seville has plenty. For runch options, book in advance because they get full and you don’t want to waste your 24 hours queueing for eggs.
Next pick up rental bikes to explore the riverside and up to the Macarena neighbourhood. There are lots of options all over the city but bikes do sell out so book in advance if you can. We rented from ‘All of Seville’ and the service was great. It was €12 a day for a city bike with helmet, basket and lock.
Or if you are here for the history and architecture spend a few hours in the Royal Alcazar. Always book tickets in advance and be prepared for it to be busy.
Lunch in Seville
Time for a tapas crawl through Seville’s oldest and most vibrant streets. See the restaurants in my tapas bars list above for suggestions.
Afternoon / Evening in Seville
Next make your way to the neighbourhood of Triana for an afternoon in one of Seville’s most genuine neighbourhoods. Consider pre-booking a food tour with a local to dive a bit deeper into the scene.
Loop back to the city for hora de vermut. Get yourself to Setas for a snack and glass of wine or buy tickets to be at Setas for sunset and aurora.
Time for a flamenco show to round of the night in th emost perfect way. If you are lucky wnough to be here on a Saturday or Sunday then rooftop Flamenco is worth booking in advance. For a more raw expereince there are several penas that are worth a visit. See list above for ideas.
The best way to build an itinerary is to mix and match the sites, activities and experiences that are meaningful to you. Want some help figuring out what those are? Purchase a custom 1 day itinerary
48 Hour Seville Itinerary
Got an extra day to play with? Here are some ideas for day two.
Spend the morning in Alcazar without rushing.
Go to Setas for the aurora light show after sunset.
2-3 Day Seville Itinerary
Long weekend? Now we’re talking. 3-4 days is the best amount of time to spend in Seville. I recommend working with a travel planner who knows the city inside out to create an itinerary for 3 or 4 days. With this time you’ll be able to dive deeper into the culture and experience Seville in a personalised way. What do you love? History and architecture? Food and wine? Hands on experience? I can make it happen.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
In April 2026 I celebrated my 38th birthday and 4th cancerversary (4 years since cancer diagnosis – currently in full remission) by running 10km a day in 5 cities in 5 days. Seville – Palma – Barcelona – Venice- Rome.
The goal was simple. Wake up in a different city each day and run 10km with a different backdrop each day. For 5 consecutive days. The planning was meticulous and by some miracle (and an unusual level of faith in RyanAir) I pulled it off.
This post is half journal about my experience and half travel planning guide for anyone who wants to take on something similar.
If this is your first time on my website, please know this is not the usual thing you see around here. I do write about outdoor adventures and I do write travel guides about Spain, Italy and Portugal but this fast-paced style is not the norm for me. I prefer slow travel and taking time to get to know places. I’m an independent travel planner so I travel most months but more likely than not you’ll find me road tripping around a town or region, not flying from city to city every day.
This trip was the exception and links with my 24 hours in… series. The series is not about encouraging you to visit places in only 24 hours, but rather showing you how to do it if that’s the only time you have.
You can see my usual travels through my Travel Guide Collection but if you want to see how this particular run-travel challenge worked out stick around.
Firstly, let me say this – I don’t actually recommend doing this if you actually want to experience the cities you are visiting because 24 hours or less in each place makes that impossible. This was a very personal challenge, specifically for my cancerversary which is why it’s a bit chaotic.
As someone who visits Italy and Spain very regularly I found there was no pressure to do anything other than run in each place because I already know these places through travel.
For me the experience was waking up in a different city to run with a different backdrop each day. My only goal was to complete a 10km run each day. Everything else was a bonus. The running was a key element of the trip for me, but of course you could do this without running every day if you wanted.
I hope this acts as a source of inspiration for a different type of travel and experience for those who like to think (or run) outside the box.
My original goal for this celebratory challenge was running 50km in one go from my home (Cascais) to the Vasco da Gama bridge in Lisbon. 6 weeks before the goal date I ran 43km in Porto as a tester. The run went well and I felt on top of the world at the end, but the recovery was hard and long. I am currently training for a full Ironman and I knew I couldn’t risk injury so I decided to put my body first and change the format of the challenge.
The new challenge? Running 50 km over 5 days (10k every day for 5 days) but instead of doing it in the same place every day, I would do it in a different city, blending my love of travel and running.10km a day is not much of a physical challenge for the level of fitness I currently have, but doing it across 5 different cities added a new dimension to the challenge that quenched my thirst for some sort of adventure.
Once I got the idea in my head I couldn’t shake it so I started scouring SkyScanner. I became so invested in the plan that I couldn’t put my laptop down for two days, until I had figured out a route. In the space of 48 hours I’d created the route, booked the flights and convinced friends to join me for the first and last day. (Shout out to my YES friends).
“Rules” for the challenge
When I first started creating a route, I tried simply picking the cheapest flight each day and I got really far with this idea. You would be amazed at just how little you can spend and how far you can go. The beginning stages of route planning were very fun and had me stopping over in some obscure places.
Eventually I had to rein it back because some airports were too far from the city to make it work logistically and economically, others were so random there wasn’t really much there. Could I run 10k? Sure , but I wanted to be running in locations where there was actually interesting stuff to see and some of these places didn’t tick that box. So I wound it back again and started making some rules which involved airports close to city centres (30-45mins) with frequent and cheap airport transport.
Which Cities made the cut but I easily could have added?
With this in place, the route started to take shape. I started to notice flight patterns and also noted my excitement or disappointment when adding destinations to the flight plan.
I soon realised that Venice was somewhere I was bending over backwards to fit into the itinerary, so it became a non-negotiable; as did Palma. I wanted to start in Seville as the flight time was really good from Lisbon and some friends agreed to join me for my birthday which was the first day of the trip.
After this I was able to come up with my route.
SEVILLE – PALMA – BARCELONA – VENICE – ROME
I made sure I had a full 24 hours in all of the cities, with the exception of BCN which was a shorter layover (I already visit BCN multiple times a year so I didn’t feel like I was missing out). This decision meant I could spend longer in Venice (which I hadn’t visited for 20 years). I ended the 5 days in Rome because I couldn’t think of a more iconic European run for my last 10km than passing the Colosseum. It was also the best place to meet a friend from Spain who came to celebrate with me after.
Cities that didn’t make the cut
Palermo & Catania. Sicily is my favourite place on the planet but I already had a trip planned to the region a month later.
Cagliari & Alghero (Sardinia) I couldn’t quite get my head around flying to the huge island of Sardinia for only 24 hours.
Valletta (Malta) This one almost made the cut but the flights were getting in so late it was going to mess up transport to the city.
Valencia. This is the one I’m upset about. I couldn’t make it to work. The flight times wouldn’t work with some of the non-negotiables I had. I’ll be back.
Madrid. Very close to adding this and it was doable, but I chose BCN instead. I know BCN better and it made the short day of my trip much smoother.
Bologna. Another close one but I decided my first time visiting Bologna deserves more time. Bologna I’m coming back for you in the winter!
How much did the trip cost?
One of the stipulations of this trip was it needed to be budget-friendly because it was happening during a period of 2 months with a lot of travel and races already in my calendar. The main enabler of this run-travel adventure was the price of the flights. Which were shockingly cheap. All flights including Lisbon return flights (and one night bus) came to a total of €130. Insane.
The average flight cost was €20. Seville – Palma was the cheapest at €12. The most “expensive” was BCN – Venice at €26. The overnight bus from Venice to Rome (6 hours) was €9.
I stayed in budget accommodation everywhere except Rome where I booked a 4 star to celebrate my actual cancerversary date. Accommodation (capsule/hostel style) was between €27 and €44 a night, not including Rome which was 130 for a 4 star double hotel room. It was possible to do it cheaper in some places and plenty of room to bougie it up if you wanted. If you have the budget, then real hotels would make the experience much more relaxing.
Planning a 5 day, 5 cities trip
The level of planning that went into this was intense. When you don’t have much time on the ground, every detail needs to be planned in advance. Scrambling for airport buses after landing is not ideal when you have such limited time. I’m in my element planning itineraries but even for me this was a lot of fine, boring details to sort through to make sure it was going to work smoothly, even with my prior knowledge of the places I was visiting.
After this level of research, you can now consider me a flight connection guru. I know all the airport transport options, time and costs of all major cities in Spain and Italy. This one single trip levelled up my transport knowledge massively.
Why do I consider myself a travel planning expert? Exactly because of this. I live the work I sell. At any given point I have 3-4 trips in planning for myself alongside my client itineraries and trip plans.
Use Skyscanner to search for flights. It’s the best tool on the internet.
Choose your dates (if you are able to be flexible, select your departure month instead).
Choose your From city
Set‘ To’ to ‘Everywhere’ and tick the ‘direct flights’ box
The next page will bring up a page of different cities your departure city flies and from lowest cost
Open the cities you’re interested in, on new pages and compare times and prices
Once the first stage is sorted do exactly the same for the next stage
Planning a 24 hour itinerary for each city
For this 5 day trip I wrote an individual itinerary plan for every city like I do for my itinerary clients, but with only 24 hours, how much of it I could achieve was limited. I took away the pressure of having to do too much and made the main goal of each city the 10km run, knowing that this run would also get me around the city and show me the sites on the move. Anything extra that I saw or did was a bonus.
I already knew Seville and Barcelona really well because I visit every year which made those days much more relaxing. Before this trip, I last visited Venice when I was 18 and this was the place I was most anxious to make the most of the short time I had. Palma was also new to me (even though I have traveled in Mallorca) but the city is more manageable to visit in a shorter time frame. Rome, being at the end and also not my first time to visit, was more of a place to relax. I spent the day after my last run cafe hopping with my friend in the Trastevere neighbourhood knowing full well I’ll visit Rome multiple times in my life.
I spent an obscene amount of time researching every city so that I had multiple options to tap into on arrival without having to think or search too much in that moment (which I usually enjoy). Off the back of that research and my own trip I wrote a series of 24 hour travel guides which, thanks to the nature of the detail orientated research, turned into some of the most comprehensive guides I have written. You can read them below.
24 HOURS IN SEVILLE coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN PALMA coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN BARCELONA coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN VENICE coming soon . . .
24 HOURS IN ROME coming soon . . .
How did it go?
The trip was a success. I managed to make it to every city. I had a few short delays but nothing crazy. The trip obviously felt rushed and it was tiring which I expected but it was also so much fun. I found that the adrenaline of always being on the move kept my spirits high and I saw more than I expected in the time that I had. And yes, I completed all the 10km runs. In Barcelona I ended up running an extra 4km so that I didn’t miss my flight to Venice.
The point of this trip was 5 cities in 5 days but if you have the luxury of time then spending at least 48 hours in each city would be a much richer (but still rushed) experience.
Seville : Best experiences
Arriving at Plaza de Espana 4km into our run to see the square in the most beautiful light
Tortilla con Solomillo al whisky sauce at Casa Eme (an absolute gem of a find)
Vermouth and tapas with a twilight view of Setas
Palma : Best experiences
Running along the ocean path to Playa des Penyó
Sea swim in crystal clear sea
Long sunny lunch on the patio at Cafè Es Pes de sa Palla
Barcelona: Best experiences
Sagrada Familiar WITHOUT scaffolding!
Running along the pier under the bluest sky, surrounded by that unbeatable BCN vibe
Post run dip at the beach
Venice : Best experiences
Running into Venice along the Mestre bridge
Ice cold spritz perched on a stone wall next to the canal
Jumping on a random boat at Dorsoduro to see sunset from the water
Rome : Best experiences
Running to a new country (The Vatican) and beating the crowds
Running past the Colosseum and not worrying about queuing to go in because the only plan for the rest of the day was to sip spritz in Trastevere
Afternoon drinks in Trastevere. Trapizzino was the perfect hangout spot
Mouthwatering dinner and expertly selected wine at Vanda
There you have it – my 5 cities, 5 day trip with 50km of running thrown in. I honestly loved it. It exceeded my expectations and despite being very tired I would happily go back and do it again. I’m already plotting the next run travel adventure. Where next?
Planning a trip to Portugal, Spain or Italy but don’t know where to begin? I’m your gal!
This is a guide on how to hike a section of the wild and beautiful Fishermen’s trail in Alentejo, Portugal as an easy day trip from Lisbon.
If you’re a hiking enthusiast you’ve likely heard of the 230km coastal trail running from Porto Covo in Alentejo all the way to Lagos in Algarve – Trilho dos Pescadores. The full trail takes 12/13 days to complete. Those who don’t have time for the full trail often do the “original trail” from Porto Covo to Odeceixe which fits neatly into a long weekend.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
If you love the idea of getting your boots on the trail and seeing the magic of the Alentejo coast but you don’t have 4 days to play with then consider a 1 day hike. Most people don’t realise this but you can complete one of the best sections of the hike as a day trip from Lisbon.
I’m an independent travel advisor based in Portugal (Cascais) since 2016. I’m also an outdoor sports and adventure lover and have hiked the entire Fisherman’s trail from north to south. I also regularly visit the trail for day hikes. Want to hike the full 12/13 day trail?
My One Day hike Porto Covo – Vila Nova de Milfontes
My last Fisherman’s trip was March 2026 when I went back to hike the first stage of the Original Fisherman’s Trail from Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes. Having hiked the trail before, this is one of my favourite sections which is why I went back. These two towns are also the towns with the best/easiest connection to Lisbon.
One Day on the Fisherman’s Trail from Lisbon
It is totally possible to do a one day hike on the trail as a day trip from Lisbon, meaning you wake up and go to sleep in Lisbon.
Is this the best way to do it? Not really. If you have the flexibility to spend the night before and/or the night after the hike in a town on the trail then it will be a better experience, but if you only have 1 day to make it work then I’m here to show you how to do it.
The best section of the trail to hike is Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes (or vice versa) because of its good transport links and also because this part of the trail is almost entirely on the coast with no inland jaunts like some of the other days.
Best Option for a one day Hike on The Fishermen’s Trail
One of the best sections of trail to hike is Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes (or vice versa). This is considered the first day of the original trail (or 2nd if you start at São Torpes in Sines). The trail is next to the ocean all the time with a few short sections behind the dunes. Some days further in the trail take you further inland, which means you don’t get the full coastal experience. This day is also one of the easiest to do as a day trip from Lisbon because they the start and end are the quickest points to reach by bus.
One night in Porto Covo before, one night Vila Nova de Milfontes after
The best option is spending the night before your hike in Porto Covo so you can enjoy some time in Porto Covo and get out early on the trail. Starting early is the best way to take on the Fishermen’s trail. As someone who has departed at sunrise and also at midday, I can confirm sunrise is the better choice, especially during warm days. So if you can, spend the night in Porto Covo before.
Spending the night in Vila Nova de Milfontes after the hike allows you to wind down from the day and celebrate one of the best towns on the Alentejo coast.
If you have the ability to spend the night before you start the trail then definitely do this. Being able to get on the trail early, especially during hiking season means you’ll enjoy the trail at its best, with the fewest people.
By Car
If you have a car then you have more freedom but it still requires some logistics. You could drive to Porto Covo, do the hike and then get a bus from VNM back to Porto Covo after you have completed. Or you could drive to VNM, take a bus to Porto Covo and hike back to your car. Both towns have ample free parking but in summer it can get very busy so arrive early.
If you don’t have the time to be able to spend a night before or after it is possible to hike this section of the trail as a day trip from Lisbon. Here’s how to do it.
Book the earliest available bus from Lisbon Oriente or Sete Rios (check both for the most choice) to Porto Covo.
Start the hike in Porto Covo immediately (trail head is a short walk from the bus station)
Hike the trail. This section usually takes most people 4-5 hours.
Book the last bus back to Lisbon Oriente or Sete Rios (check both for the most choice)
Rede Expressos is the best bus company as they have the most trips. Flixbus has limited options from Vila Nova de Milfontes to Lisbon but not Lisbon to Porto Covo.
I prefer to start in Porto Covo and end in Milfontes because it is a bigger town and has better connections but it is also possible to do this the other way round. Check first the bus times from Porto Covo back to Lisbon to ensure you have enough time after your hike..
One Day Fisherman’s Hike Logistics
Here’s all the extra bits and pieces to help remove the stress of planning a one day hike.
When to book buses and accommodation
I booked my last day trip very last minute (4 days before) when I saw a sunny weather period and was able to secure buses and accommodation easily in March. Buses do sometimes get booked out so try not to leave it until the last minute. If you are planning to stay on the trail either before, after or both then I recommend booking accommodation well in advance if you are traveling between Mid April – end of September. There are limited options in both towns.
The best way to plan your Portugal itinerary is by having all of the options in one place. I’ve created a trip planning map for Portugal with hundreds of pins to help you plan your trip. Need trip inspiration or itinerary ideas? You’ll find everything you need on the map.
When is the best month to hike the Fisherman’s Trail
Shoulder seasons are king and rhe best months to hike the fisherman’s trail are April, May, early June, September, October and early November, but because the weather stays mild year round it is also possible to hike throughout the winter. This stretch of coast can be subject to high wind and swell so always check the forecast before committing. Mid-summer it is also possible but the days are HOT so I only recommend starting at sunrise so that you are complete by midday during this season.
For me the best season is spring when the wild flowers are out in force and it’s warm and sunny but not overly hot.
If you have the luxury of choice mid-week is better for a quieter trail and more accommodation options last minute.
Tips for the Trail
This section of trail has a lot of soft sand. Pick trail runners over hiking boots.
Spend the night before in Porto Covo so you can get out on the trail early. Sunrise is perfect.
Bring swimwear for a cool off dip in VNM.
Spend the night after in VNM and rent kayaks to explore the Mira river.
Book accommodation in advance.
There are no shops between these two towns on the trail. Bring plenty of water (2-3l per person).
There is limited shade. Bring sun wear and protection.
Human Travel Planning. No AI here.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
Planning a trip to Cascais soon? I’m so glad you’re here. I’m an independent travel planner based in Portugal and Cascais has been my home since 2020. I’ve written several guides about the town I choose to call home but this one is a quick run down of the best things to do in Cascais. Most people only come for an afternoon but I’m here to show you there is plenty to fill your time with. Stay overnight, stay a few days, maybe even use it as a base instead of Lisbon but whatever you do come and visit with intention.
The best way to plan your Portugal itinerary is by having all of the options in one place. I’ve created a trip planning map for Portugal with hundreds of pins to help you plan your trip. Need trip inspiration or itinerary ideas? You’ll find everything you need on the map.
The long-awaited guide for how to plan a 10 day trip to Sicily is here. Sicily is deceptively voluminous, both in landmass and activities. Planning a 10 day itinerary can be overwhelming if you are a first-time visitor. Don’t worry, I’ve got your back. I have accrued months of travel time in Sicily over the years and it remains my most-visited (and favourite) region of Italy. I visit multiple times a year, at all seasons.
See proof below.
P.s that gelato is the best pistachio I’ve ever had (I’ve eaten a lot). You can find it in the legendary Caffetteria Luca in Bronte. Thank me later.
As you can see, I am quite the fan of Sicily and that’s exactly why you can trust me with itinerary planning.
Use this travel guide in conjunction with my other guides and Sicily Travel Map to create a magical but manageable trip to Italy’s most southerly region.
Sicily is no secret (the region receives more than 7 million visitors a year) but often the likes of Rome, Venice and Florence take centre stage for a first-time Italy trip. These cities are, of course, mega stars but also endlessly busy and let’s be honest, overdone. Sicily offers stunning landscapes, ancient sites and cities, breathtaking beaches yet it does it with its own flare. Despite the interest from tourism it refuses to change it’s style. It is the region that ticks every box you can imagine, the only problem is deciding what to fit in.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
How to get to Sicily
Sicily has two international airports Catania and Palermo. It also has several ports linking mainland regions Campania and Calabria by ferry. There is even a ferry route to Malta.
How to get around Sicily
Unless you are sticking to the major cities (Palermo and Catania) then a hire car is the best way to get around Sicily. While the trains and buses are frequent and (fairly) reliable between the main sites, if you want to see the rest of the region then you need 4 (or 2) wheels.
Sicily by Car
Road tripping in Sicily is one of the best experiences you can have and is the best form of transport in the region (unless you are staying only in Palermo and Catania). My personal recommendation for car rental is Zest who I have been using since 2019.
If hiring a car isn’t your thing then consider using a private driver for some of the days on the island to make the most of what’s on offer.
If you are only staying in Palermo or Catania you don’t need a car and I would avoid driving in these cities unless you have to.
I’ve written loads more driving tips for Sicily in my SOUTH ITALY GUIDE.
Sicily by Train
Train rides are possible and decent between the two main cities, outside of this they are slow and cumbersome.
Sicily by Bus
The main cities, towns and airports are connected by bus. Flixbus is popular and good value. Journeys are slower and still much more limited than by car.
Sicily by Boat
Ferries in Sicily are frequent and reliable and reaching the outer-islands is easy. The three ferry companies you will come across in Sicily are:
You truly can visit Sicily at any time of year but shoulder seasons (May/June) and early autumn (September/October) are perfect for any corner of the region.
Peak summer can be very hot and very busy, especially in destinations like Taormina and the Aeolian Islands.
Beach season starts in June – October but you can often find warm, sunny days throughout May and November too. The islands and beach resorts start to close down as autumn arrives and come to a complete standstill in mid-winter.
Palermo and Catania can be visited at any time of year and are the best choice for a festive trip.
Road trips are rewarding year round but June or September/ October are wonderful. Hiking and outdoor adventures are the same.
Planning a Trip to Sicily
Sicily may well be a top destination for travellers in Europe but it is one of the more challenging regions to explore logistically. It’s much bigger than people realise and getting from one side of the island to the other can feel like a chore if you don’t have much time to do it. Public transport out of the major cities is poor and roads outside of the main cities can be arduous.
Here’s the thing : even if you get all the logistics right, fitting everything in is a challenge. The most important tip I can give you (and this applies everywhere) is to not try and fit too much in one trip. If you are moving from one place to another every day you’re going to miss out on the real joy of Sicily.
Sicily is like a giant theme park of sites and activities, markets, mountains, beaches, islands, vineyards… the possible itinerary stops are endless. The best thing you can do with 10 days is narrow it down to your non-negotiables and then really dive into those.
I’m going to share a common or popular 10 day itinerary which you can use as a starting point but I recommend spending some time researching (there is lots of extra info about individual towns, cities and islands on this website) before committing to it 100%.
Best 10 day Sicily Itinerary
The idea of a best 10 day itinerary is a false promise. The best itinerary for you will be a mix of places that match your travel style and preferences. It could be fast-paced, moving every day with lots of stops, perhaps a road trip. Or it could look like exploring 1 or 2 locations much more deeply in a slow travel style.
Maybe you’re in Sicily for the architecture and history? Maybe you’re there for the food? Perhaps you’re there to hike Etna or island-hop.
Sicily Travel Map
Looking for the best places to visit in Sicily all in one place? The Sicily Travel Map has more than 150 pins to help you plan a meaningful trip. I created this map to inspire your itinerary and make planning easier. The map includes a food guide, authentic restaurants, trattorias and osterias, the best spots for aperitivo, road trip ideas, cities, islands, remote beaches, hiking trails and areas of natural beauty. Local activities and genuine experiences. Everything you need, for the cost of one pizza. Mamma Mia!
There is not one 10 day itinerary that fits all. If you want to make sure you are making the most of what Sicily has to offer in a way that aligns with you, book a travel consultation.
If you want a truly personalised experience but don’t have the time or inclination to research and pull together a full itinerary, I can do it for you.
If you’re at the beginning of your Sicily itinerary search, keep on reading.
A Classic 10 day Sicily Itinerary
Start in Palermo. End in Catania. Rental Car.
Days 1 -3 Palermo with day trip to Trapani or
Day 4 Agrigento
Days 5 -6 Ortigia including ½ day trip to Noto with wine tasting or Modica
Days 7-10 Taormina with ½ day trip to Catania and ½ day trip to Etna
Day 1
Arrive in Palermo. If it’s still early, get straight to Ballarò market to immerse yourself in the true Sicilian spirit and an energy like no other. Load up a plate of street food (dare you to try the Pani ca Meusa) and soak up Palermo in full swing.
Palermo where to stay:
Casa Normanna | 1 bedroom apartment with original features, small balcony and equipped kitchenette. Central but quiet location
Curate your own food tour or book in with Culinary Backstreets. (Code CANDY5 will get you 5% off). Book a traditional puppet show, a dying but undeniably beautiful art.
Day 3
Day trip to hike Zingaro natural park, 7km of coastal path and coves. Bring your swimwear. (by Car)
Or take a full day trip to Trapani where you can take a short ferry to Favignana. Rent rusty bikes and cycle round the island diving in and out of coves and petting donkeys. (bus and ferry).
Taormina : Morning coffee and granita at the infamous Bam Bar. Do yourself a favour and get a mix of fragola (strawberry) and mandola (almond). Take the cable car down to Isola Bella for the afternoon.
Catania: Cathedral and church-hop your way around the city, ending with aperitivo in a lively piazza.
Day 9
Day trip to the magnificent Etna either with a guide or by car. Or circumnavigate the volcano stopping at wineries along the way. Pistachio lovers make a b-line for Bronte and the gelato at the iconic Caffetaria Lucca.
Day 10
If you have time before departure head to the lesser known Aci-Trezza for some seaside calm or head into Acrireale (avoid rush hour) for a local cafe experience.
Find Accommodation in Sicily
An Alternative 10 day Sicily Itinerary
If you’ve already seen the main sites or you want to do something different, you’re in luck. Sicily has something for everyone and the possibilities are endless.
North Coast & Islands
Day 1-3
Trapani (1h from Palermo Airport) and Egadi islands (make sure you book a boat trip in Marettimo with Pippo).
Baglio Sorìa 10km from Trapani but worth a look if you’d like some rural luxury
Favignana where to stay
If you’re looking for somewhere simple to stay : Terra del Sole holiday apartments in the centre of town. If you’d like hotel facilities or a little more luxury try Villa Rocce Bianche
Make a brief one night stop at the hidden gem Castlebuono. (by car only)
Day 7-9
Drive to the most easterly point. Take a ferry from Messina to Salina island (Aeolians), stay in Leni. Spend two days barely scratching the surface but just enough to make you immediately book your next trip to see the rest of the 9 islands.
If you’re a coastal lover and are hoping for some beach time while in Sicily. You are in luck. The region has a stunning coastline to explore. Better still, Sicily’s outer-islands are spectacular examples of mini paradises. The major Aeolians aside, many of the islands still feel wonderfully untouched by modern tourism.
So there you have it, a few 10 day itinerary options for Sicily. Remember travel is highly personal and deserves more than a ‘copy & paste’ itinerary. Check out my other Sicily travel guides below to help with your planning. If you’d like to work with a specialist trip planner on your itinerary, book a call.
Next South Italy Trip: October 2026 This guide has been a long time coming…
November 12, 2025
Human Travel Planning. No AI here.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
Aveiro was one of the first places I visited in Portugal after moving to Lagos. In 2017 I embarked on a pottery road-trip which took me through the Centro region, seeking out ceramics for a business. The trip took me to one of Portugal’s pottery centres – Aveiro, but with so little time and a focus only on pottery I missed a lot of what the city was about. It was another 8 years until I returned and it was only during this most recent trip I got to see more. I can confirm once more that Aveiro is NOT the Venice of Portugal, but it is one of the most colourful places in the country and a fun place to explore by foot (and boat).
Aveiro a colourful city with a canal (thats nothing like Venice)
If you’ve done any research on Aveiro you have probably noticed many people claiming it as the ‘Venice of Portugal’. This is simply because it has a (small) canal network and canal boats; that is where the similarities end. Venice is an ancient city and a mega-tourism destination, twice the size of Aveiro. Aveiro is a small modern city on the central coast of Portugal; it has lots of interesting sites and is a great stop on your Portugal itinerary but it cannot be compared to the magnitude of Venice.
We need to start celebrating Aveiro for what it is. A colourful, walkable city with pockets of unique culture, tasty treats and yes, Moliceiro boats. More below.
Aveiro is only an hour south from Porto and is reachable by both train and bus. You don’t need a car to visit Aveiro but if you want to combine it with a trip to Costa Nova or as part of a bigger road trip a car is a great way to get around. One positive (and rare) bonus of Aveiro is a large free parking lot. This does get full in the summer so arrive early. Once you are in Aveiro, the city is easy to explore by foot. The main points of interest are situated next to the canal. The train station is a 10-15 minute walk from the centre.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
Where to Stay in Aveiro
If you’re spending the night in Aveiro, good on you! There is accommodation suiting all budgets.
Aveiro can be visited as a day trip from Porto and even as an afternoon stop between Lisbon and Porto, but if you have the time I recommend spending a night or two and combining the trip with a visit to Costa Nova. I’m not going to give you an hour by hour schedule to follow, that is not my style, but use this guide to help you build your own two day itinerary for Aveiro. There is plenty to keep you busy.
Building your own Portugal Itinerary? The best way to plan is having everything in one place. I built The Portugal Map after 10 years in Portugal and it has hundreds of itinerary ideas and suggestions.
Portugal Travel Planning Map
The best way to plan your Portugal itinerary is by having all of the options in one place. I’ve created a trip planning map for Portugal with hundreds of pins to help you plan your trip. Need trip inspiration or itinerary ideas? You’ll find everything you need on the map.
It’s worth jumping on a canal boat, traditionally-known as a Moliceiro while in Aveiro, but it isn’t the only activity or reason to visit.
Moliceiro Boats : uniquely Portuguese, from Aveiro
One of the main draws of Aveiro are the Moliceiro canal boats. These originate from the 19th century when they were used as an agricultural tool to collect seaweed (moliço) which was used as fertilizer. The boats are no longer used for agricultural purposes and are now used solely for tourism. A fun way to see the city of Aveiro and to celebrate and preserve an important piece of Portuguese culture.
There are several companies that offer tours and there are a few locations to board. You can ride a Moliceiro for as little as €14 or consider taking a guided walking and boat tour. If you’re visiting in summer, it’s worth booking the boat ride / tour in advance.
Colourful Streets and Tiles
It feels a little strange to call Aveiro a city because it is very different and much much smaller (especially the main centre) than Lisbon, Porto or Coimbra. Think of Aveiro as more of a small town and this “small town” is very easy to walk around. One of the best ways you can spend your time is wandering the streets, spotting Azulejos (tiles) and frolicking in the mood-boosting colour palettes of the houses and buildings. You’ll also find hints of Art-Nouveau style scattered everywhere.
Don’t only look up though. Aveiro also has the most intricate and fun calçada I’ve seen in all of Portugal. The ocean-themed calçada can be spotted throughout the city.
Photographers will love this place.
Aveiro is also victim to a ribbon bridge – a rainbow of ribbons with messages written on. You can buy ribbon from shops in Aveiro an add your own to the railings.
Canal Cafe Culture
The waterside street of the canal is a row of restaurants/ cafes with seating spilling out on the pavement. If you have a sunny day while you’re in Aveiro, you’re going to want to pull up a seat here for a coffee or lunch.
Ceramics and Pottery in Aveiro
Aveiro is one of Portugal’s significant pottery centres, another being the rising Sao Pedro do Corval in Baixo Alentejo.
In Aveiro the Bairro das Olarias (pottery villages) have been present since mid-century when Aveiro was known for producing amphoras and storage for sugar (a production the city is also famous for).
In the city centre you can find a number of shops selling pottery and ceramics from all over Portugal. Outside of the centre you can find several factory stores and the famous Visit Alegre museum.
Another gem of Aveiro is its Ovos Moles. These funny shaped convent sweets are filled with a rich egg yolk and sugar filling and are thought to date back to the 16th century. Pastel de nata aside, Ovos moles are among the most famous of sweets in Portugal. You can find them all over the country, but the best place to taste them is in Aveiro.
In Aveiro there are countless versions but the current award-winning ones can be found at Confeitaria Madre Odisseia. I encourage you to try a few different places (and shapes) though.
Where to Eat in Aveiro. Don’t forget the eel.
I was really surprised at the number of fantastic restaurants in Aveiro. It’s one of the best places I’ve found for traditional (and not overpriced) Portuguese dishes.
One dish you absolutely should try in Aveiro is the Enguias, or eels. Most restaurants serve this dish. I tried it during my first visit but… it’s not for me.
If sweets are more your thing of course you have to try Ovos Moles but Aveiro has another sugary offering too. Tripas are like a mix of crepe and waffle; made with various fillings, cooked hot and fresh in front of you. The most popular place to try is Tripas da Praça.
Aveiro Restaurants Suggestions
Adega Típica O Telheiro – Typical Portuguese
O Buraco Bar e Restaurante – simple grilled dishes
2 Duques – A restaurant serving typical ‘prato do dia’ menu
M Bakery – Something a bit different. Very fancy cakes. More of an ‘afternoon tea’ spot than a restaurant..
If you are a specialty coffee snob like me then drop by the super friendly Bastardo Coffee Roasters.
Speciality Shops
Specialty shops are a dying breed. I’m talking about shops that focus on one or maybe 2 things intensely. They sell every version of that thing you can imagine and are often run by experts of the field. I’m not sure what the history is behind it but Aveiro seems to have really held on to these specialist shops and we should protect them!
Casa do cafe – This is a specialised coffee shop and I’m not exaggerating when I say you will smell it before you see it. A shop dedicated to coffee and feels like stepping back in time.
Mega Hits – I honestly didn’t think these still existed. This is an independent music store selling CDs and music memorabilia. It has a focus on fado music but you can find many other genres too. I really enjoyed walking around looking at the cd covers. It reminded me of my teen years.
Visit Costa Nova – Aveiro Beach District
The beaches of Costa nova are a 15 minute drive from Aveiro city centre and a welcome breath of fresh atlantic air. If you’re here in the summer months it’s the perfect place to cool off, if you’re here in the winter the long stretch of sand is the best place for a walk in nature. Costa Nova is more than a beach though, its small strip is bursting with candy-striped buildings. Guaranteed to brighten your day whatever the season.
So there you have it, a range of activities and sites to add to your two day Aveiro itinerary.
Aveiro was one of the first places I visited in Portugal after moving to…
March 4, 2026
Human Travel Planning. No AI here.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
Situated right up in the northeast corner, Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro is Portugal’s most remote region. The region’s assets include swathes of natural park, preserved historical highlights, quirky traditions and the highest number of UNESCO sites in the whole of Portugal. Trás-os-Montes was also the very last of all the regions in Portugal I visited. I visited mid-February and it surprised me in the best way.
Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro is a historical region of Portugal that is part of the statistical region Norte aka North Portugal. It is located in the very northeast of the country bordered by Minho to the west and Centro to the south.
Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro
The historical region encompasses two contrasting areas of the north. Douro Valley, particularly the area of Pinhão is a firm favourite for tourism thanks to its vine studded landscape and wine tasting experiences. As almost a contradiction, Tras-os-Montes is little known outside of Portugal and very few tourists make the journey to experience it.
Why Visit Trás-os-Montes
Trás-os-Montes is an ideal destination if you enjoy less crowds, less noise, less chaos, less fake, more nature, more conversation, more genuine.
While it’s true every region of Portugal has its own notable culture, this northeastern corner is particularly special and unique.
Like Minho, this region blends with Galicia in northern Spain and you’ll notice hints of Celtic roots everywhere. In this area of Portugal, more than ay other you’ll fine Spanish widely spoken in addition to Portuguese. In some places you can even find a unique dialect from Galicia.
The celebrations are rooted in paganism. The pottery is black. The nature is untouched. Everything is different.
When to Visit Trás-os-Montes
If you read any of my other region guides you’ll notice I usually suggest the shoulder season as a prime time to see Portugal, but Trás-os-Montes lends itself perfectly to the winter months. Yes it’s cold, yes there might be snow, but the region is built for ‘cosy’ – think fireplaces, steaming hot soups, hearty meaty dishes, flowing red wine and peaceful, frosty mornings.
The exception to this is if you are planning a hiking holiday in which case the snowy, sometimes harsh weather in the winter of the north is not suitable. Wait until spring and you’ll be rewarded with wildflowers.
Summer in this corner of Portugal is fiercely hot, sometimes reaching the mid forties so not the best for hiking. This is a great time of year for cooling off in waterfalls.
Where to Stay in Trás-os-Montes
One of the best experiences in this region is staying in a traditional cottage. It is becoming harder and harder to find these authentic stays but Trás-os-Montes has plenty.
Casa do Parâmio two bedroom house in the heart of Montesinho natural park
How to Visit Trás-os-Montes
Although some of the towns are reachable by train and bus, it is best to explore with a car, especially if you are hoping to enjoy time in Montesinho national park. The closest international airport is Porto, a 3h drive to Bragança and 1h30 to Vila Real.
It is possible to create a circular route around Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro by driving far to the east (Torre de Moncorvo or Mogadouro), then up to Bragança, before driving west to Chaves and south to Vila Real. Or reverse the route if you want to ease yourself into the remoteness.
Looking for road trip and itinerary ideas? Access pre-made road trip routes and hundreds of itinerary ideas for Portugal on The Portugal Travel Map.
Portugal Travel Planning Map
The best way to plan your Portugal itinerary is by having all of the options in one place. I’ve created a trip planning map for Portugal with hundreds of pins to help you plan your trip. Need trip inspiration or itinerary ideas? You’ll find everything you need on the map.
The best place to pick up a rental car is Porto (either airport or downtown). I always use Zest for car rental in Portugal. They have an excellent no excess insurance option.
Some people combine a trip to Trás-os-Montes with Galicia in northern Spain. If you do this, check if the rental company allows it.
Driving the N2
The EN2 is a 739km national road (estrada nacional) running right down the middle of the country. Kilometer 0 is in the town of Chaves and the first 65km of the route goes through Trás-os-Montes e Alto douro region in the Norte.You can pick up a “passport” at Chaves tourist information centre and collect stamps along the route. Most people do the route by car but if you’re a keen cyclist, this is a great adventure through Portugal.
Trás-os-Montes and the traditions & experiences from the Norte
This region of Portugal is home to rich culture and quirky traditions. It’s a region to dive into the history of carnival, ancient pottery techniques and satisfying dishes.
Black Pottery of Bisalhães, Alto Douro
Portugal is well-known for ceramics. When most people think of Portuguese ceramics they think of the colourful painted designs found in Alentejo and Centro regions but in the very north of Portugal you can find something different. O barro preto de Bisalhães, a rare type of black clay earthenware produced using archaic kilns. The town of Bisalhães, close to Vila Real is the only town still producing this type of pottery in Portugal;. the pottery and process is recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage. Interesting article here.
Trás-os-Montes What to Eat & Drink
Portugal is often thought of as a seafood destination. It’s true you can find an abundance of fresh fish and seafood dishes along its 800km of coastline but in Portugal’s interior, meat takes centre stage.
Cured Sausages & Meaty Stews
The interior northern regions such as Tras-os-Montes e Alto Douro are all about hearty stews and cured meats. You’ll find menus that heavily feature pork, steaks and chourico.
The Birthplace of Alheira
Tras-os-Montes is also home to Alheira, a type of sausage made from chicken and bread. The pork-free sausages were invented by the Jewish, who in the 15th century, were forced to convert to Christianity. The “sausages” were hung on door frames tricking the authorities; alheira became a symbol of resilience.
Trás-os-Montes Convent Sweets
Convent sweets and pastries can be found in all regions across Portugal but nowhere harnesses the rich local produce like the north. Expect cakes and pastries filled with pumpkin, almonds, honey, olive oil and chestnuts. Think, Pasteis de nata, but autumnal. Yum.
Here are a few to taste during your time in Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro.
Inn Door 21 Guesthouse and Hostel Large kitchen, terrace and fireplace room
Vila Real
A pretty city with a huge open square full of cafes.
Mirandela
A city south of the region and home to several highly-rated restaurants. This is a good base if you are in the region for Podence Carnival – Entrudo de chocalheiros.
Podence
If you’re in Podence you’re probably here for the caretos. This tiny village has managed to keep an ancient tradition alive and at the forefront of the town. Becoming UNESCO recognised in 2020 and without a doubt the most unique carnival I’ve experienced in Portugal. The Entrudo de Chacalheiro (Feb/March) is the time to be in the village, but even if you can’t make it for the carnival period you can still learn a lot about the Caretos at the museum.
Pedras Salgadas
30km into the N2, the unassuming village is typical of the norte region.
Mogadouro & Torre de Moncorvo
This area of Trás-os-Montes is completely under the radar and a truly remote corner of Portugal. Head for dinner at the O Lagar do Nicolau olive press & restaurant.
I hope this travel guide is helpful for planning your northern Portugal itinerary. Trás-os-Montes deserves your time. I’ll be back again soon and will continue to update this guide. Happy Planning!
Bragança is in the heart of Trás-os-Montes, in the remote northeast corner of Portugal. An area most tourists forgo when planning a Portugal itinerary. Even those that prefer the quieter, lesser-known areas still skip this region. Those that do find their way here are surprised by its endearing charm, which is exactly what happened during my first visit. Trás-os-Montes was the last of all the regions of Portugal that I visited. As a beach girl it’s usually the coastal regions that pull me in and as the city in Portugal furthest from the coast it’s natural it took me so long to visit.
I’m not afraid to admit I visited Braganca more out of duty (dedicated to getting to know every region of Portugal) than from desire; but when I arrived, the connection to peace and quiet was so strong, I booked another night immediately. After visiting every corner of the country, I can now say the serenity of this particular corner of Portugal is unmatched.
During a time when the world feels extra overwhelming and hyper-connected, I believe more and more are seeking out simpler, quieter places. Trás-os-Montes is exactly one of those places.
Where is Bragança?
Situated on the very edge of the Montesinho natural park and, straddling the rushing Fervença river, Bragança is Portugal’s most northern city; located in the historical region of Trás-os-Monte e Alto Douro.
Nature wins in the region of Trás-os-Monte, and every town, village & hamlet in the region is enveloped in that raw beauty; the city Braganca is the perfect example.
When to visit
Like every region in Portugal, the shoulder seasons (May-Jun + Sep-Oct) are great months to visit but in my opinion the best time to visit Bragança is in the winter. Why? Because Bragança does winter very well. Soups, hearty stews, cave-like taverns with fireplaces, winter traditions, and maybe even some snow if you’re lucky.
If you are planning on also visiting Montesinho natural park or hiking then winter isn’t the best time but if you want to enjoy the city at its most characteristic then winter is the perfect time, extra points if you come during carnival (end of Feb/ Beginning of March).
In summer temperatures can reach the forties so unless sweltering heat is your thing then avoid this time of year. The one benefit to this time is the chance to cool off in waterfalls.
How long to stay
Bragança is only small and you can see the main sites in a day but I definitely recommend spending the night to enjoy the cosiness after dark. Even better, stay a few. Use Bragança as your base for exploring the Montesinho natural park. If it helps, I stayed 2 nights and although I felt like I saw what I wanted in that time, a part of me really wanted to stay for longer and settle in to the pace of Trás-os-Montes.
Where to Stay in Bragança
Here are a few suggestions for places to stay in the city.
Inn Door 21 Guesthouse and Hostel Large kitchen, terrace and fireplace room
Where to stay in Trás-os-Montes
If you’d prefer to base yourself somewhere else in the region there are so many options. One of the best experiences in this region is staying in a traditional cottage. It is becoming harder and harder to find these authentic stays but Trás-os-Montes has plenty.
Casa do Parâmio two bedroom house in the heart of Montesinho natural park
Bragança highlights : What to see &do
Castelo de Bragança. The cherry on the top of a beautiful city is the castle. Prominent in the skyline and offering views across the region. It’s an enjoyable walk.
Eat a Brigantino or two. I’ve nicknamed this the pastel de Brigantino the autumn pastel de nata. Instead of the yellow custardy centre of a nata you’ll find a hearty centre of chestnuts, almonds, olive oil and honey. I learnt that once you have eaten one Brigantino, you certainly haven’t eaten them all. They come in varying shapes, sizes and textures. As if you need an excuse to eat more than one.
Find a Cosy Tavern. One of those winter luxuries is a blustery walk followed by a cosy tavern and bragança is perfect for this. I loved the cave-like O Celta for a glass of port. If you’re here in summer they have outdoor seating with barrel seating.
Visit the mask museum. This corner of Portugal has a rich history of ‘caretos’ and these masks are some of the most celebrated in the country. Naturally you can find hints of the caretos all over Bragança but if you want to learn in more detail then a visit to the Museu Ibérico da Máscara e do Traje is a must
Visit Marron Oficina da Castanha. this is one of the best Portuguese product stores I’ve visited. They have all the usuals like olive oil, wine and honey. Their specialty is chestnuts, selling a wide range of chestnut products including chestnut paste (in beautiful packaging) and offering a liquor tasting. They also have a small cafe.
There you have a quick guide for a short stay in Bragança. This city captured me more than I thought it would and it’s the place that calls me to return to Trás-os-Montes for longer. Happy Planning!
It’s almost a year since I visited Mallorca. I was extremely late to the party on this one. Apart from a trip to Menorca in my teenage years, the Balearics remained untouched on my travel list until last year when I finally booked myself a trip to Mallorca and Formentera.
The reason this guide has taken so long to write is because… I wasn’t blown away by Mallorca. I was actually somewhat disappointed; but hang fire for a moment. If you make it to the end of this travel guide you may change your mind with me.
And look, I’m not naive here. Its 2026 and tourism has been negatively (and positively) affecting islands like Mallorca for years and years but the type of overdevelopment here is my least favourite. It has prioritised money at the expense of natural beauty, a little bit like Algarve in Portugal did in the 1970s-1990s.
And it’s everywhere, even the smallest of coves appear to have great lumps of white concrete growing out of them. I believe there is a way you can welcome tourism, make money from it and support the local infrastructure and natural beauty while you do it but I found little evidence of that in much of Mallorca.
That isn’t to say natural beauty and areas of undiscovered beauty don’t exist. They do, but they are harder to reach, which brings me to the next point.
Unless you have a boat it is almost impossible to find an undeveloped stretch of coast.
Traffic is a royal pain in the ar$e as soon as you pull off that main motorway running from Palma to Pollença. Why? Too many cars and buses for narrow windy roads. Why? We (me included) all want to visit these small quaint towns and tiny coves.
Mallorca gives the illusion or rather, it sells itself as a small island, but the reality is very different. Mallorca is the largest of the Balearics and visiting all the different corners of the island is not as easy as the tourism board makes out. It is annoyingly difficult and time consuming to get around, especially if you want to explore the towns on the west side or the beaches in the south east. Even in the off-season (I visited in April) the traffic and parking is horrific.
Anyway, I digress.
A Caveat
I have not spent enough time on the island to warrant claiming anything with great confidence, It wouldn’t be fair to do so. Take what I say as one opinion of many; as something to consider as a first-time visitor but not base your entire trip on.
Giving Mallorca another chance
I’ve done some seriously deep research for this island, not only for my trip but for my travel planning clients too. I’m currently planning a week-long trip for a client who is visiting the island this year and it forced me to take another look at the island. Through my extra research for this trip, I have started to develop more of an appreciation for Mallorca and I’m willing to give it another chance. Now I look back through my photos and I remember that there are special moments and experiences to be found amongst its downfalls.
Travel & Photography by Candy : What you see is real. No images in any of my travel guides are AI. All photos in this travel guide are taken by me. I spend a huge amount of time photographing, editing and uploading all the photos on this website. Please do not reuse them without credit and a backlink to this page. Thank you.
Apart from the very obvious over-development, Mallorca does have pockets of immense beauty and even though they are busy, it’s hard not to fall a little bit in love, especially with the western villages and gorgeous blue ocean.
Why you should give Mallorca a chance
For Natural Beauty
For a Sporty Holiday
For a Boat Trip
For Catalan Culture, Language & Food (in some areas)
For Beach Relaxation (if you stay in one place)
What I can help with is recommendations because I have spent months researching the Balearics including Mallorca for my own travel and for many others so I do know what’s out there to enjoy.
MALLORCA TRAVEL PLANNING MAP COMING SOON…
How to make the most of Mallorca
There are a few ways to channel the special experiences and reduce the stress when visiting Mallorca.
Spend longer. There are ways to make Mallorca more enjoyable and the main one is to spend longer here. Dedicating 10 days or 2 weeks to the island gives you the chance to visit the different corners. If you don’t have the luxury of time, research well and pick one or two areas to visit and stay, no more.
Don’t try and do it all. I offer this tip on all my guides and it’s the one that I fail at myself so many times. Reduce the number of places, increase the quality of the experience.
Wake up and go early. Early birds are rewarded in the Balearics. Get out and about by 9am and find parking easier, stroll beaches with less people and enjoy driving the beautiful, winding roads alone. The earlier the better.
Save parking locations before you travel. There is nothing more stressful than driving around a tiny, busy village looking for parking. Have several parking locations saved on GoogleMaps for each location before you visit and save yourself the stress and hassle. Keep coins on you for parking meters. Parking locations can be found on my Mallorca trip planning map.
Book restaurants in advance. There are some stunning restaurant choices in Mallorca and while you will never be stuck for a place to eat around Palma the other towns and beach locations can and do get fully booked in advance. This is particularly true for Valledemossa, Deia and Soller.
“Hidden gems” do exist, they just look different to what you pictured. The words Hidden gems have become associated with “instagram-worthy” photos and it drives me insane. Hidden gems or what I like to call the “lesser-known local spots” are not about being pretty or photographer-friendly (even though some of them are) they are local sites or experiences that capture the culture of the place you are visiting. They are places unspoilt by modern tourism. In Mallorca this looks like the eastern interior where you can drive through very local towns that despite not being particularly picturesque, give you the opportunity to sample local culture and cuisine in small restaurants without the crowds. Dedicate some of your time to discovering these places. Share your well-earned holiday money in locations a little further from the well-trodden trail.
Combine it with a trip to Formentera. Formentera is the opposite of Mallorca. It is laid back & wild (not in a party sense); its the perfect antidote to a week of scrambling to see everything Mallorca has to offer. I fell in love instantly.
Mallorca is a natural playground so outdoor adventures and activities are king. One thing is true, no matter how long you spend, you definitely won’t be bored on the island of Mallorca.
Tip: Palma has some fun experiences like sandal making and pottery class that are great for a rainy day if you’e visiting in the off-season.
Cycling Holidays in Mallorca
There is one scenario where I am a huge advocate for Mallorca, and that’s for a cycling holiday. I knew that the island was popular for cycling and triathlon but I had no idea just how much the island had welcomed bikes until I visited. Cycling tours and training camps are everywhere and the roads are full of bikes. This can be frustrating for drivers in some cases, for example, when driving up the infamous Ma-2210 but it was really refreshing to see bicycles being treated with respect on the roads. I actually appreciated the chance to slow down in the car and soak up the views while ascending with the bikes. I’m obviously no expert after one trip but the impression I had was that cyclists are mostly treated as equals on the roads. If you are considering a cycling holiday or triathlon camp, Mallorca is spectacular for it.
Hiking in Mallorca
The other reason I’m all for Mallorca is the breathtaking 150km hiking route GR221, aka the “dry stone route”. I’ve ventured on small stretches of the route but not completed any of it. It remains my biggest reason to return to Mallorca. Since I haven’t completed the trail myself, I’m not the one to tell you how to do it. My research has uncovered a few great resources :
Lilo from Tails of a Trail has written a personal account which seems really useful
GR221 is in my near future, so I’ll be sure to update once I’ve enjoyed the trail to its full capacity.
Swimming in Mallorca
Swimming is the one activity I did indulge in during my time on the island and wow. Some of the coves I swam in during this trip remain core memories and account for some of my most favourite swims in southern Europe.
Although nothing tops La Maddalena in Sardinia for me.
Best Beaches in Mallorca
Cala Formentor
Caló des Màrmols
Calo des Moro
More on The Mallorca trip planning map
Accessible Beaches in Mallorca
The Handiscover website has a detailed list and find more options below. Plan in advance during busy seasons.
Cala Bona. Includes ramps, parking, adaptive showers and assisted bathing)
Playa de Muro. Has several wooden walkways and amphibious beach chairs.
Es Trenc
Palmanova
Playa de Palma
Magaluf
Water Activities and Boat Rental
If you’re spending time in Mallorca, it’s definitely worth jumping on a boat tour.
More water activities & experiences on the Mallorca trip planning map
Getting Around Mallorca
Unless you are staying put in Palma, a car is necessary in Mallorca. As much as I complain about the traffic from late morning onwards, visiting the island without the car cannot give you the full experience.
If you have the budget, working with a private driver for the western towns would be a relaxing way to do it.
If you want to rent a car I recommend using the broker Zest or Discover. I have personal experience using both. I have been using Zest for years in Portugal and Spain and they are my go-to. I recently started using Discover in Italy and had a positive experience.
Important: Avoid the car rental company Centauro. I had a very negative experience with them in Palma. They have several scams running (you only have to look at reviews on Google to see).
Mallorca Where to Stay
As I’ve mentioned – it’s a big island so consider where you want to spend most of your time when choosing accommodation. If you plan on visiting many locations on the island, consider splitting your time across two bases. For example Palma and Pollença would be a good mix. As always I use BookingCom for accommodation because it has the widest range and best value. If you have the time it is also worth reaching out to accommodation directly and they can sometime offer a different rate. However resoinse rate is not always quick.
Palma
Palma is an obvious choice for many. The pro is that it is close to the airport and gives a mix of bustling city life and nearby beaches coast.
Sa Pedrissa Romantic hotel with stunning ocean views Deia
more on my Mallorca Trip Planning Map
Mallorca where to eat
Another thing the Balearic island of Mallorca does well is food. You certainly won’t go hungry. I curated a broad but considered selection of the best restaurants on the Mallorca Trip Planning Map. Whether you are looking for fancy, high-end delights in Palma, rustic country restaurants or sea views while you sip you’ll find the best restaurant, cafe and bar suggestions on The Mallorca Travel map. You’ll also find a foodie treasure hunt and list of traditional foods you have to try.
MALLORCA TRAVEL MAP COMING SOON
Why are you charging for this map?
Until recently I was offering all of my hours (and hours and hours) of research, planning and experience for free on this very website. You don’t have to look far to see the wealth of information on Travel in South Europe that has been shared here over the years (that is still available to help you plan your trip for free). Sadly in the last year much of my own research and personal experiences have been cannibalised by ChatGPT and other AI; taking literally all of my information and displaying it on those platforms without acknowledging this site or sending a click my way. This has forced me to find other ways to share this information while respecting the time it takes for the work I do. AI are not able to take information from my trip planning maps which allows me to protect some of my work. If you enjoy curated travel and unique suggestions, the trip planning maps will provide you with real value. For the cost of a coffee or pizza you’ll have access to hundreds of genuine and authentic experiences that you can’t find by the click of a button. If you have found my website and travel guides useful planing your trip but don’t need a personal travel planner, please consider purchasing a trip planning map. Thank you. Obrigada. Gracias. Grazie.
Personal Trip Planning in Mallorca & The Balearics
If you’re planning a trip to Mallorca or the Balearics have you considered working with an independent travel advisor rather than a travel agent or hashing it out by yourself? I’ve been living in southern Europe for 10 years and have planned trips for hundred of people visiting Spain, Portugal and Italy (including Mallorca) and I’d love to show you what is possible with a personalised itinerary.
What you see & read here is REAL. I don’t use ChatGP or other AI to write my travel guides or design itineraries. Travel is a human experience that requires all of the senses. It is impossible for AI to replicate that. Working with a human travel planner means working with someone who understands that travel is a highly unique and personal experience, not a ‘copy and paste’ job. All travel guides have been written by me from my own personal experiences. All the photos on this website are taken myself during my own travel. Nothing has been created using AI so you can trust what you are seeing actually exists.
So, there you have it. My quick guide to Mallorca. Despite my cynicism after my first trip I feel ready to give the island some more of my time and I hope I can encourage you to do the same because the truth is, Mallorca is an island that deserves it.
