You almost certainly didn’t see it here first. Isola di Procida was named ‘Italian Captial of Culture’ in 2022 – bravo! Even with this title, Procida is usually swapped for glitzy Capri or larger Ischia. Those that do choose to visit ‘the underdog’ of Campania, usually only visit on a day trip.
The island has been on my list for so long, ever since I saw a photo of Marina di Corricella in 2018 in all its pastel glory. It’s usually an add-on day trip from Naples or Ischia but I wanted to get to know Procida overnight and beyond so I spent 4 days on the island. It easily could have been 7.
Visiting Procida as part of a bigger southern Italy trip?
Best Places to Visit Southern Italy
Where is Procida island?
Procida, along with Ischia is part of the Phlegraean Islands of Naples, and part of the bigger Campanian archipelago which includes Capri
How to get to Procida
From Naples airport to the port
Take an Alibus direct to the port €5 per journey
By Ferry
There are several ferry companies you can use to reach the Campanian archipelago. You can choose from a ferry (1 hour from Naples, car-friendly, cheaper) or a fast-boat (40 minutes from Naples, slightly more expensive).
How long to spend in Procida
Most people visit as a day trip from Naples or Ischia. Very few people use it as a base but whatever time you’re visiting I can recommend spending a few days. Procida is a working island, not only in tourism , so there are things to do year round. I spent 4 days and 4 nights on Procida and I easily could have stayed longer. Having said this, if your itinerary only allows for a day trip, go for a day trip. You can still see the best bits of the island in a day. Don’t skip a late lunch at the marina.
Visiting Procida in the off-season – what to expect
Even more encouraging is that I visited in November, the off season, and although some restaurants were closed, there was plenty of atmosphere on the island. I can’t quite believe I’m saying it but the (albeit single track) roads were actually busy. Proof that local life exists outside of tourism.
Some restaurants and shops close and some have limited hours but by no means does the island shut down. The restaurants and cafes that are open are the ones the locals are eating at. Some of the marina restaurants were closed because this is mostly for tourists. The bonus is that the ones that are open are blissfully quiet so you can pull up a front row seat to the ocean and watch the fisherman fix nets while you sip on your aperol in the sun.
The island does start cooling down quickly in the winter so sea swimming is not accessible for most but if you have the appropriate clothing you can still head out for sunset beach walks. My biggest advice for the off season is to stay closer to the port because the west of the island can feel quite remote.
How to get around Procida
The island is tiny (4km2)but it is very helpful to have a vehicle since the areas to visit are spread quite far apart. The roads are very narrow and can get quite busy at certain times of day so I don’t advise a car unless you have to transport kids. Most people get around with electric bikes and scooters which work perfectly well for the island.
Important: Non-residents are not allowed to bring cars to the island.
Where to stay in Procida
If you are coming in season and you want something a little calmer then renting an apartment closer to Ciraccio beach is a good idea, or if you’d prefer to be walking distance to the main area of restaurants and bars then stay on the port side.
If you’re coming in the off-season I recommend staying closer to the port where the main street is so that you don’t feel too isolated.
Some ideas
- Hotel La Vigna – tucked away behind Corricella
- Corricella Sea Window – Light and breezy apartments with views over the marina
- ALMALO Floating House – Yes it’s a boat house, and it would be a really unique stay and memorable on Procida
- Casa Sul Mare – Double rooms, some with gorgeous sea views
- Ciraccio Apartments – spacious apartments in the western side of the island, with all the amenities you ened. These would be great to give you peace during the busier months but I stayed here during November and it felt too remote
Where to eat in Procida
- A Puteca – this was my favourite find. Small market and restaurant offering huge plates of roasted veggies, meats and other freshly made goodies. They also have delicious coffee. Super friendly service too.
- La Lampara – one of the “famous” restaurants mostly because of the view of the marina but receives plenty of positive reviews for food too.
- Cala Cala – upscale foodie experience. Not open during winter.
- Caracalè – Right next to the water within touching distance of the colourful fishing boats . They do a daily special which is targeted at tourists but the food quality is high.
- Ristorante Sottosopra – family-run restaurant close to the port
- Hook – the place to feast on crispy fried seafood and freshly made burgers
Best Aperitivo in Procida
Ciraccio all but shuts down during winter so check in advance if aperitivo is still available on this side of the island.
- Hotel La Vigna (East of Corricella)
- Hotel Solcalante (Ciraccio) – sunset view
- Vivara (Ciraccio) – sunset view
- Bar Capriccio (port)
- Maresia (Ciraccio) – sunset view
Best coffee, gelato and pastries in Procida
- Saint Rock (Corricella) – Gelato bar of dreams
- Paname forno Indipendente (port) – sadly this was closed during my visit so I didn’t get to try but it seems to be the only place on Procida that offers specialty coffee.
- La Panetteria – Homely bakery with all the typical baked goods
What to do in Procida
Viewpoint / Marina di Corricella
Let’s start here because let’s be honest – this is why you’re here. While you’re at the view point, also wander through the fortified village of Terra Murta. The marina developed as a natural harbour and remains a working fishing village. There are various stories about the coloured buildings but one of the most popular is that they helped fisherman find their way back home.
When you leave the viewpoint follow the steps down to the marina from the same side. Walk along the marina and back up one of 3 other staircases. Weaving around the stacked houses and under arches is one of the best experiences.
If you are here for a few days it’s worth coming at different times of day so you can appreciate the colours in different lights. In peak summer months this is the busiest place to come for lunch and dinner so it’s advisable to book a table in advance if there is a restaurant you are set on visiting.
Lunch with the fishing boats
Marina di Corricella is the best place for a leisurely lunch on the island. While the restaurants on the marina do cater mostly to tourists, Corricella is a working fishing village and at any point in time you are likely to see fishing boats coming and going, fixing nets, offloading the catch of the day. Grabbing a front row table at the marina restaurants is a surefire way to enjoy a moment of harmony with the island.
Buy art from local legend & artist Luigi Nappa
This was a completely accidental find and a place I probably wouldn’t have found during the summer as I would have been on the beaches more. This cavern of colour is home to local artist and legend Luigi Nappa. Luigi grew up on the tiny island but went out to explore the big wide world, became a captain, and settled in Australia. One can only imagine the stories he has, but he never forgot his home island and continues to return for periods of time with renewed inspiration from the world. If his story wasn’t enough to make you want to take a peek, Luigi’s art will be. Just like Corricella the walls are stacked with mood-boosting palettes.
I can’t guarantee he’ll be there when you visit because when I spoke with him he said he was thinking about heading back to Australia, which makes the discovery feel even more special. You can learn more about Luigi and his colourful life here.
Sunset at Ciraccio beach
The long swathe of sand on the west of the island is known as Spiggia di Ciraccio. It feels mostly wild, especially at the east end but to the west end of the beach you’ll find some small bars and restaurants. The beach is a magical place to watch the sunset as the sun dips behind Ischia.
If you’re one of those people who can’t resist a remote island adventure welcome to the club. If you haven’t visited Sicily yet, add it to your plans immediately and check out this guide.
Visit Vivara natural park
As small as she is, Procida has her own natural reserve island. Vivara natural park is an asset the island is very proud of, and so she should be. Vivara is the remains of a volcano which can be seen from the crescent shape and with 3km in length and 109m of elevation it creates interesting topography. The island hosts migratory birds and is home to an array of marine biodiversity and wildlife. If you want to visit, you can only go during certain times of the week, and only with a guide. A visit costs €10. For more information and to book, go to the official site here.
Eat a Lingua di Procida
If you know any Italian you’ll know Lingua is the word for tongue. The local treat also goes by the name of lingue di bue (ox tongues) so I immediately wrote it off as something I would try (spleen and lung sandwich in Palermo was enough offal for a lifetime thanks). That was until I read a little further and was pleasantly surprised. The procida made lingua is a crispy pastry filled with cream and lemons! Now we’re talking. You can find them in various pasticcerias all over the island but Bar Roma is said to be one of the longest running institutions.
Take a day trip to Ischia
Yes it’s usually the other way around but if you are using Procida as a base you can easily hop on a ferry to Ischia for the day. Caremar runs frequent ferries (40 mins) and fastboats (15 mins) from port to port. Once in Ischia you can either rent a scooter (the island is much bigger than Procida so if you want to cover distance and electric bike won’t cut it) or stay in the immediate vicinity. Around the port you have a historical centre with shops and restaurants. Follow the road next to the beach all the way to the Aragonese bridge and castle. It’s a wonderful area to spend an afternoon. I highly recommend picking up a Rum ‘Baba’ from Raffaele.
That’s all I have to share for now but hopefully it can help get your trip planning off the ground. If you’re looking for some extra help planning your Italy itinerary, I’m just your gal to build it.
Procida island was a real treat at the end of a 2 week southern Italy road trip for me. I wasn’t sure what to expect visiting at the time I did but the island was much more than I was hoping for. It’s the type of place I could happily spend a few weeks so I’ll definitely be back. Happy Planning!
No Comments